Rockfax Description
A good, wide, traditional crack, for good, wide, traditional climbers! Start at the fallen block.
1) 4a, 10m. Follow the short, strenuous crack to belay at a chockstone.
2) 4c, 25m. Follow the steep crack above to gain a rest at 10m. Continue straight up the slightly relenting fissure to reach The Black Gates.
3) 40m. Follow pitches 4 and 5 of The Black Gates. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Jenny Hall 11/Aug 2nd dnf
with Louis
GermanAlex 13/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 1 and 2 as one. Bit of a sandbag, hard moves and little gear. Surprisingly the wide crack yields not to groveling, but technical bridging and jamming. Done after Main Wall due to congestion on the easier routes. First ascent 1927? Top effort!

caradoc 18/May/14 AltLd

Always wondered about this one, in the end it was less of a thrutch than I expected. Small crimps and bridges avoided being stuck in the crack but the gear was limited and it is certainly a tough VS. The scramble up to the ridge was loose and longer than described in the guidebook. View...

with Matt H.
cbeard 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 + 2 linked, with very limited big gear. A good, old fashioned thrutchy fight from the 1920s!

Dan724 31/May/13 Lead O/S

traumatic - full of slime and none of my gear fit when needed. Credit to the first ascentionist! *TOP TIP* Bring scissors/knife, the chockstone belay is full of decades old tat and you can't get a sling through it-removing the old stuff would be a big help to everyone!

with Steve Keys
Hidden ??/2012 -
pryan300 14/Jul/11 AltLd dog

Take boots and climbing shoes and two big cams

with T-Bone
demarcation86 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Linked up with Crib Goch and Snowdon summits. Good day out. Route hard for VS.

with Paul
Hidden ?/Jun/11 AltLd
david morse 22/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

SANDBAG. Bring some big kit (#4 cam). More like E1 5a

with lole
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead O/S
Rob84 30/May/09 AltLd O/S

By far the hardest VS I've ever done and I usually really like cracks! I've done easier E1's!

with Chris James
thompson1000 22/Sep/08 AltLd
SaraKaikk 20/Sep/08 2nd
Hidden 19/Sep/08 Lead O/S
tumbling wizard ?/Jun/08 -
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
simon geering 28/Aug/07 TR dog

PYB Touching Stone.

Hidden 21/Feb/07 Lead O/S
Tom Vivian 17/Jun/06 AltLd

Need big boots!

Rob Davies ??/1995 AltLd
ferret newman 01/Jul/92 2nd
with The Blacks Camping Crew (Reading) , 1989-1991
nigehughes ?/Aug/88 Lead
with Steve Law
babymoac 05/Jul/87 AltLd
with Chris B
Hidden 24/May/87 AltLd
mikej 27/Jun/79 Lead
with Tony Waite
Brian Wilderspin ?/Jun/77 Lead
with Brian Wallis
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, rbharries, Hidden, Simon Cahill, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 9
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set