Gwynedd > Clogwyn y Ddysgl >
Fallen Block Crack** VS 4c

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[Fallen Block Crack, Clogwyn y Ddysgl, 2 kb]A good, wide, traditional crack, for good, wide, traditional climbers! Start at the fallen block. 1) 4a, 10m. Follow the short, strenuous crack to belay at a chockstone. 2) 4c, 25m. Follow the steep crack above to gain a rest at 10m. Continue straight up the slightly relenting fissure to reach The Black Gates. 3) 40m. Follow pitches 4 and 5 of The Black Gates. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: Fallen Block Crack, Clogwyn y Ddysgl © caradoc
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This climb is in 25 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Always wondered about this one, in the end it was less of a thrutch than I expected. Small crimps and bridges avoided being stuck in the crack but the gear was limited and it is certainly a tough VS. The scramble up to the ridge was loose and longer than described in the guidebook. View...
caradoc - AltLd - 18/May/14 with Matt H.

Lead P1 + 2 linked, with very limited big gear. A good, old fashioned thrutchy fight from the 1920s!
cbeard - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Jonny Hawkins

traumatic - full of slime and none of my gear fit when needed. Credit to the first ascentionist! *TOP TIP* Bring scissors/knife, the chockstone belay is full of decades old tat and you can't get a sling through it-removing the old stuff would be a big help to everyone!
Dan724 - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Steve Keys

Hidden - 2012

Take boots and climbing shoes and two big cams
pryan300 - AltLd dog - 14/Jul/11 with T-Bone

Linked up with Crib Goch and Snowdon summits. Good day out. Route hard for VS.
demarcation86 - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Paul

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/11

SANDBAG. Bring some big kit (#4 cam). More like E1 5a
david morse - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with lole

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

By far the hardest VS I've ever done and I usually really like cracks! I've done easier E1's!
Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with Chris James

thompson1000 - AltLd - 22/Sep/08

SaraKaikk - 2nd - 20/Sep/08 with James Rushforth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/08

tumbling wizard - Jun/08

Sean Kelly - 2008

PYB Touching Stone.
simon geering - TR dog - 28/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/07

Need big boots!
Tom Vivian - AltLd - 17/Jun/06

ferret newman - 2nd - 01/Jul/92 with The Blacks Camping Crew (Reading) , 1989-1991

nigehughes - Lead - Aug/88 with Steve Law

babymoac - AltLd - 05/Jul/87 with Chris B

Hidden - AltLd - 24/May/87

mikej - Lead - 27/Jun/79 with Tony Waite

Brian Wilderspin - Lead - Jun/77 with Brian Wallis

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, rbharries, Hidden, Simon Cahill, Hidden

Total votes cast 20
hard HVS0 of 8
HVS1 of 8
easy HVS3 of 8
hard VS2 of 8
VS2 of 8
easy VS0 of 8
hard HS0 of 8
HS0 of 8
easy HS0 of 8
hard 5a0 of 5
5a1 of 5
easy 5a2 of 5
hard 4c2 of 5
4c0 of 5
easy 4c0 of 5
hard 4b0 of 5
4b0 of 5
easy 4b0 of 5
3 Stars0 of 7
2 Stars4 of 7
1 Star2 of 7
0 Stars1 of 7
Bag of .....0 of 7
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Style of ascent

Lead8 of 25 (32.0%)
Followed2 of 25 (8.0%)
Toproped1 of 25 (4.0%)
Alt Leads10 of 25 (40.0%)
Unknown4 of 25 (16.0%)

'Climbed'15 of 25 (60.0%)
clean O/S8 of 25 (32.0%)
dogged2 of 25 (8.0%)