Gwynedd > Clogwyn y Ddysgl >
 
Fallen Block Crack** VS 4c

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[Fallen Block Crack, Clogwyn y Ddysgl, 2 kb]A good, wide, traditional crack, for good, wide, traditional climbers! Start at the fallen block. 1) 4a, 10m. Follow the short, strenuous crack to belay at a chockstone. 2) 4c, 25m. Follow the steep crack above to gain a rest at 10m. Continue straight up the slightly relenting fissure to reach The Black Gates. 3) 40m. Follow pitches 4 and 5 of The Black Gates. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: Fallen Block Crack, Clogwyn y Ddysgl © caradoc
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 26 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Lead pitch 1 and 2 as one. Bit of a sandbag, hard moves and little gear. Surprisingly the wide crack yields not to groveling, but technical bridging and jamming. Done after Main Wall due to congestion on the easier routes. First ascent 1927? Top effort!
GermanAlex - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/14

Always wondered about this one, in the end it was less of a thrutch than I expected. Small crimps and bridges avoided being stuck in the crack but the gear was limited and it is certainly a tough VS. The scramble up to the ridge was loose and longer than described in the guidebook. View...http://youtu.be/4I_vuqHySLg
caradoc - AltLd - 18/May/14 with Matt H.

Lead P1 + 2 linked, with very limited big gear. A good, old fashioned thrutchy fight from the 1920s!
cbeard - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Jonny Hawkins

traumatic - full of slime and none of my gear fit when needed. Credit to the first ascentionist! *TOP TIP* Bring scissors/knife, the chockstone belay is full of decades old tat and you can't get a sling through it-removing the old stuff would be a big help to everyone!
Dan724 - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Steve Keys

Hidden - 2012

Take boots and climbing shoes and two big cams
pryan300 - AltLd dog - 14/Jul/11 with T-Bone

Linked up with Crib Goch and Snowdon summits. Good day out. Route hard for VS.
demarcation86 - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/11 with Paul

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/11

SANDBAG. Bring some big kit (#4 cam). More like E1 5a
david morse - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with lole

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2011

By far the hardest VS I've ever done and I usually really like cracks! I've done easier E1's!
Rob84 - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with Chris James

thompson1000 - AltLd - 22/Sep/08

SaraKaikk - 2nd - 20/Sep/08 with James Rushforth

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/08

tumbling wizard - Jun/08

Sean Kelly - 2008

PYB Touching Stone.
simon geering - TR dog - 28/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/07

Need big boots!
Tom Vivian - AltLd - 17/Jun/06

ferret newman - 2nd - 01/Jul/92 with The Blacks Camping Crew (Reading) , 1989-1991

nigehughes - Lead - Aug/88 with Steve Law

babymoac - AltLd - 05/Jul/87 with Chris B

Hidden - AltLd - 24/May/87

mikej - Lead - 27/Jun/79 with Tony Waite

Brian Wilderspin - Lead - Jun/77 with Brian Wallis

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, rbharries, Hidden, Simon Cahill, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 23
hard HVS0 of 9
HVS1 of 9
easy HVS4 of 9
hard VS2 of 9
VS2 of 9
easy VS0 of 9
hard HS0 of 9
HS0 of 9
easy HS0 of 9
hard 5a0 of 6
5a2 of 6
easy 5a2 of 6
hard 4c2 of 6
4c0 of 6
easy 4c0 of 6
hard 4b0 of 6
4b0 of 6
easy 4b0 of 6
3 Stars0 of 8
2 Stars5 of 8
1 Star2 of 8
0 Stars1 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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Style of ascent

Lead8 of 26 (30.8%)
Followed2 of 26 (7.7%)
Toproped1 of 26 (3.8%)
Alt Leads11 of 26 (42.3%)
Unknown4 of 26 (15.4%)

'Climbed'15 of 26 (57.7%)
clean O/S9 of 26 (34.6%)
dogged2 of 26 (7.7%)