UKC

Restricted Access

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

Rockfax Description
A hard-to-reach bolt belay gives abseil access to this route - use a nearby tree to help. Climb the crack-line to the niche, passing this on its left. Climb on past bolts to regain the crack at the top. © Rockfax

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Route of Interest
Merlin Direct

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))

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