Gwynedd > Llech Ddu (Black Slab) >
 
Central Route/Scar Face Finish** VS 4c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Crib Lem Spur (Llech Ddu Spur)
 
The Great Corner >>
[DW2 belaying Rob on pitch 2, 3 kb]128m, 5 pitches. Pitch 1 - 75 feet 4b: Gain chimney and bridge; move right to belay. Pitch 2 - 75 feet 4b: Follow corner crack and climb wall to right to gain slab belay. Pitch 3 - 75 feet 4b: Traverse up and right following crack to small slab with delightful exposure. Pitch 4 - 75 feet 4c: Climb steep wall directly to grassy terrace. Pitch 5 - 120 feet 4a: Move left to wall and climb directly; becoming progressively loose and vegetated in gully. Steep grassy walk to top and descend via path to right

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: DW2 belaying Rob on pitch 2 © mick1jones
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 17 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

ian caton - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Abi

Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Ian

This is definitely HVS, not VS, and gets that grade in the North Wales guide by Ground Up. Led P2 and P4 with rucksack and walking poles strapped on. The start of P1 was dripping wet when Patrick led it. P2 is very sustained and is the most technically demanding of the entire climb. Patrick built the belay of P3 in the niche at the top of the Scarface traverse rather than a few metres away at the nut belay of The Groove, so had to swing out right on some very dodgy greasy holds to lead P4 and spent a good 5 min gibbering in fear that I'd fall and land on Patrick's head. The top out of P4 is pretty horrible. For the descent, we walked to the summit of Carnedd Dafydd and walked straight down the other side to the A5.
mariannekhoo - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with Patrick Goodwin

ads - 27/May/12 with Julie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11

1,3,5. Lovely positions mixed in with a dose of vegetation and loose rock. Worth doing. Meant to do corner but it started raining.
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Halla

Boiling hot on the approach, freezing cold on the crag. Paul's thermometer suggested 28C and 12C respectively but I think it was colder than that on the crag. My fingers certainly thought so! By the start of P3 the middle and ring fingers on both hands were pretty numb, the other ones weren't too happy and neither were the toes, so the poorly protected traverse half way along P3 was quite exciting. The description above is right but don't believe the grades! Hard 4c on P1 and P3, 4c on P2, 4b on P4, while P5 deserves a gardening grade (a shame really but I guess it adds to the traditional qualities of the route). HVS overall due to sustained 4c moves, sometimes above (or along from) the gear. The chimney on P1 required a bit of old school gnarl but at least it was dry. Another good suggestion from Paul. There were a few crampon scratches in places from the FWA by Tim Neil and Nick Bullock last December (from the DMM blog it seems they didn't do the Scarface traverse, yet there were scratches on the stance at the top of P3; I reckon P3 would go with an axe traverse of a row of veg just above the crux section of the summer pitch, while a variation crackline should be feasible for P4). NB good ab spike at top of P1.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Paul

Pay attention - AltLd - 22/Apr/11

sonnenstern - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Carlene Hill

Carly - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with sophie

mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 25/May/08 with Chris Dale

JRSB1991 - 2nd O/S - Apr/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/06

Chris Ellis - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/96 with Louise Pellett

Hidden - 2nd - 12/May/84

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 18/Jul/82 with Dave Abbey

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 23/Jun/74 with Ben Foord

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, EcoClimber, Alex.M-M., twright180, Hidden, numbat, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 18
hard HVS0 of 7
HVS2 of 7
easy HVS4 of 7
hard VS0 of 7
VS1 of 7
easy VS0 of 7
hard HS0 of 7
HS0 of 7
easy HS0 of 7
hard 5a0 of 7
5a0 of 7
easy 5a2 of 7
hard 4c3 of 7
4c2 of 7
easy 4c0 of 7
hard 4b0 of 7
4b0 of 7
easy 4b0 of 7
3 Stars2 of 4
2 Stars1 of 4
1 Star1 of 4
0 Stars0 of 4
Bag of .....0 of 4
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.