128m, 5 pitches. Pitch 1 - 75 feet 4b: Gain chimney and bridge; move right to belay. Pitch 2 - 75 feet 4b: Follow corner crack and climb wall to right to gain slab belay. Pitch 3 - 75 feet 4b: Traverse up and right following crack to small slab with delightful exposure. Pitch 4 - 75 feet 4c: Climb steep wall directly to grassy terrace. Pitch 5 - 120 feet 4a: Move left to wall and climb directly; becoming progressively loose and vegetated in gully. Steep grassy walk to top and descend via path to right

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

neal 22/Jun/14 AltLd

With Dan Jackson. Led 2,4

Nick Biven ??/2014 -
Hidden 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
Tim Sparrow 14/Jul/13 AltLd
with Geoff Thomas
Hidden ?/Jul/13 AltLd
ian caton 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Abi
Abi Chard 09/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
with Ian
mariannekhoo 26/May/13 AltLd O/S

This is definitely HVS, not VS, and gets that grade in the North Wales guide by Ground Up. Led P2 and P4 with rucksack and walking poles strapped on. The start of P1 was dripping wet when Patrick led it. P2 is very sustained and is the most technically demanding of the entire climb. Patrick built the belay of P3 in the niche at the top of the Scarface traverse rather than a few metres away at the nut belay of The Groove, so had to swing out right on some very dodgy greasy holds to lead P4 and spent a good 5 min gibbering in fear that I'd fall and land on Patrick's head. The top out of P4 is pretty horrible. For the descent, we walked to the summit of Carnedd Dafydd and walked straight down the other side to the A5.

PAJames ??/2013 -
ads 27/May/12 -
with Julie
Danjones 01/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Good route - 1st pitch a bit dirty to start and gear not the best to start but soon improves. 2nd pitch better rock. 3rd pitch great traverse but with a quite thin section for gear and holds - would be a serious fall! 4th pitch ok gear a bit limited, but easy climbing Last pitch long scramble without much gear.

with Steve Keys
Ewan Russell 15/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

1,3,5. Lovely positions mixed in with a dose of vegetation and loose rock. Worth doing. Meant to do corner but it started raining.

with Halla
Misha 23/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Boiling hot on the approach, freezing cold on the crag. Paul's thermometer suggested 28C and 12C respectively but I think it was colder than that on the crag. My fingers certainly thought so! By the start of P3 the middle and ring fingers on both hands were pretty numb, the other ones weren't too happy and neither were the toes, so the poorly protected traverse half way along P3 was quite exciting. The description above is right but don't believe the grades! Hard 4c on P1 and P3, 4c on P2, 4b on P4, while P5 deserves a gardening grade (a shame really but I guess it adds to the traditional qualities of the route). HVS overall due to sustained 4c moves, sometimes above (or along from) the gear. The chimney on P1 required a bit of old school gnarl but at least it was dry. Another good suggestion from Paul. There were a few crampon scratches in places from the FWA by Tim Neil and Nick Bullock last December (from the DMM blog it seems they didn't do the Scarface traverse, yet there were scratches on the stance at the top of P3; I reckon P3 would go with an axe traverse of a row of veg just above the crux section of the summer pitch, while a variation crackline should be feasible for P4). NB good ab spike at top of P1.

with Paul
Pay Attention 22/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Carly 27/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
with sophie
mick1jones 25/May/08 2nd O/S
with Chris Dale
JRSB1991 ?/Apr/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Chris Ellis 18/Aug/96 AltLd
with Louise Pellett
Hidden 12/May/84 2nd
Mark Kemball 18/Jul/82 AltLd
with Dave Abbey
steve L 10/Jul/77 AltLd O/S
with Sandy Wilkie, sharpie
Nigel Bond 23/Jun/74 AltLd
with Ben Foord
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
BradleyWhite, Hidden, EcoClimber, Alex.M-M., twright180, Hidden, numbat, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 12
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 9
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Not Set