Central Route/Scar Face Finish** VS 4c
[DW2 belaying Rob on pitch 2, 3 kb]128m, 5 pitches. Pitch 1 - 75 feet 4b: Gain chimney and bridge; move right to belay. Pitch 2 - 75 feet 4b: Follow corner crack and climb wall to right to gain slab belay. Pitch 3 - 75 feet 4b: Traverse up and right following crack to small slab with delightful exposure. Pitch 4 - 75 feet 4c: Climb steep wall directly to grassy terrace. Pitch 5 - 120 feet 4a: Move left to wall and climb directly; becoming progressively loose and vegetated in gully. Steep grassy walk to top and descend via path to right

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

Photo: DW2 belaying Rob on pitch 2 © mick1jones
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This climb is in 25 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

With Dan Jackson. Led 2,4
neal - AltLd - 22/Jun/14

Nick Biven - 2014

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/13

Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 14/Jul/13 with Geoff Thomas

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/13

ian caton - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Abi

Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Ian

This is definitely HVS, not VS, and gets that grade in the North Wales guide by Ground Up. Led P2 and P4 with rucksack and walking poles strapped on. The start of P1 was dripping wet when Patrick led it. P2 is very sustained and is the most technically demanding of the entire climb. Patrick built the belay of P3 in the niche at the top of the Scarface traverse rather than a few metres away at the nut belay of The Groove, so had to swing out right on some very dodgy greasy holds to lead P4 and spent a good 5 min gibbering in fear that I'd fall and land on Patrick's head. The top out of P4 is pretty horrible. For the descent, we walked to the summit of Carnedd Dafydd and walked straight down the other side to the A5.
mariannekhoo - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with Patrick Goodwin

PAJames - 2013

ads - 27/May/12 with Julie

Good route - 1st pitch a bit dirty to start and gear not the best to start but soon improves. 2nd pitch better rock. 3rd pitch great traverse but with a quite thin section for gear and holds - would be a serious fall! 4th pitch ok gear a bit limited, but easy climbing Last pitch long scramble without much gear.
Danjones - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Steve Keys

1,3,5. Lovely positions mixed in with a dose of vegetation and loose rock. Worth doing. Meant to do corner but it started raining.
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Halla

Boiling hot on the approach, freezing cold on the crag. Paul's thermometer suggested 28C and 12C respectively but I think it was colder than that on the crag. My fingers certainly thought so! By the start of P3 the middle and ring fingers on both hands were pretty numb, the other ones weren't too happy and neither were the toes, so the poorly protected traverse half way along P3 was quite exciting. The description above is right but don't believe the grades! Hard 4c on P1 and P3, 4c on P2, 4b on P4, while P5 deserves a gardening grade (a shame really but I guess it adds to the traditional qualities of the route). HVS overall due to sustained 4c moves, sometimes above (or along from) the gear. The chimney on P1 required a bit of old school gnarl but at least it was dry. Another good suggestion from Paul. There were a few crampon scratches in places from the FWA by Tim Neil and Nick Bullock last December (from the DMM blog it seems they didn't do the Scarface traverse, yet there were scratches on the stance at the top of P3; I reckon P3 would go with an axe traverse of a row of veg just above the crux section of the summer pitch, while a variation crackline should be feasible for P4). NB good ab spike at top of P1.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Paul

Pay Attention - AltLd - 22/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08

Carly - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with sophie

mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 25/May/08 with Chris Dale

JRSB1991 - 2nd O/S - Apr/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/06

Chris Ellis - AltLd - 18/Aug/96 with Louise Pellett

Hidden - 2nd - 12/May/84

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 18/Jul/82 with Dave Abbey

steve L - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/77 with Sandy Wilkie, sharpie

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 23/Jun/74 with Ben Foord

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
BradleyWhite, EcoClimber, Alex.M-M., twright180, numbat

Total votes cast 32
hard HVS0 of 12
HVS6 of 12
easy HVS4 of 12
hard VS1 of 12
VS1 of 12
easy VS0 of 12
hard HS0 of 12
HS0 of 12
easy HS0 of 12
hard 5a0 of 11
5a0 of 11
easy 5a3 of 11
hard 4c6 of 11
4c2 of 11
easy 4c0 of 11
hard 4b0 of 11
4b0 of 11
easy 4b0 of 11
3 Stars6 of 9
2 Stars2 of 9
1 Star1 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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