With Dan Jackson. Led 2,4
neal - AltLd - 22/Jun/14
Nick Biven - 2014
Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/13
Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 14/Jul/13 with Geoff Thomas
Hidden - AltLd - Jul/13
ian caton - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Abi
Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Ian
This is definitely HVS, not VS, and gets that grade in the North Wales guide by Ground Up. Led P2 and P4 with rucksack and walking poles strapped on. The start of P1 was dripping wet when Patrick led it. P2 is very sustained and is the most technically demanding of the entire climb. Patrick built the belay of P3 in the niche at the top of the Scarface traverse rather than a few metres away at the nut belay of The Groove, so had to swing out right on some very dodgy greasy holds to lead P4 and spent a good 5 min gibbering in fear that I'd fall and land on Patrick's head. The top out of P4 is pretty horrible. For the descent, we walked to the summit of Carnedd Dafydd and walked straight down the other side to the A5.
mariannekhoo - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13 with Patrick Goodwin
PAJames - 2013
ads - 27/May/12 with Julie
Good route - 1st pitch a bit dirty to start and gear not the best to start but soon improves.
2nd pitch better rock.
3rd pitch great traverse but with a quite thin section for gear and holds - would be a serious fall!
4th pitch ok gear a bit limited, but easy climbing
Last pitch long scramble without much gear.
Danjones - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11 with Steve Keys
1,3,5. Lovely positions mixed in with a dose of vegetation and loose rock. Worth doing. Meant to do corner but it started raining.
Ewan Russell - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/11 with Halla
Boiling hot on the approach, freezing cold on the crag. Paul's thermometer suggested 28C and 12C respectively but I think it was colder than that on the crag. My fingers certainly thought so! By the start of P3 the middle and ring fingers on both hands were pretty numb, the other ones weren't too happy and neither were the toes, so the poorly protected traverse half way along P3 was quite exciting. The description above is right but don't believe the grades! Hard 4c on P1 and P3, 4c on P2, 4b on P4, while P5 deserves a gardening grade (a shame really but I guess it adds to the traditional qualities of the route). HVS overall due to sustained 4c moves, sometimes above (or along from) the gear. The chimney on P1 required a bit of old school gnarl but at least it was dry. Another good suggestion from Paul. There were a few crampon scratches in places from the FWA by Tim Neil and Nick Bullock last December (from the DMM blog it seems they didn't do the Scarface traverse, yet there were scratches on the stance at the top of P3; I reckon P3 would go with an axe traverse of a row of veg just above the crux section of the summer pitch, while a variation crackline should be feasible for P4). NB good ab spike at top of P1.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/11 with Paul
Pay Attention - AltLd - 22/Apr/11
sonnenstern - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Carlene Hill
Carly - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/08 with sophie
mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 25/May/08 with Chris Dale
JRSB1991 - 2nd O/S - Apr/08
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/06
Chris Ellis - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/96 with Louise Pellett
Hidden - 2nd - 12/May/84
Mark Kemball - AltLd - 18/Jul/82 with Dave Abbey
Nigel Bond - AltLd - 23/Jun/74 with Ben Foord