Th Great Arete*** E5 6a

Rockfax Description
A stunning and totally mind-blowing line taking the groove in the steep arete. Start as for The Groove.
1) and 2) As for The Groove.
3) 6a, 40m. Move left and go up to a peg. Go up again and slightly left to a hole. Some scary bridging up the groove leads to the first overhang. Move right around this into a crack, peg. Carry on up the still-sustained groove on the right past another roof and go up to a peg. Climb the tapering groove to where you can move right to good holds where the angle relents. Head up for a few more metres to a sorry collection of pegs and traverse right to a better belay.
4) 4c, 22m. Move back left to the arete and follow it in a splendid position to the belay below the crevasse on The Groove.
5) 4a, 40m. As for The Groove. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E5 ticklist, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics.

Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 11 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Nick led grooves P1. I then led P2 of grooves straight into the main pitch ~45m. Take more than 2 long extenders, chronic rope drag from the rooves. What an incredible pitch! Go do it!
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/15 with Nick Bullock

Hard crux pitch.....dogged
Dan Vaj - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/15 with James Machaffie

jamesturnbull - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/13 with will sim

soph - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/13 with Lee Cooper

I tend to agree with the E5 grade in the ground up guide, pretty bold in the first half, and pretty sustained. Absolutely awesome route though!
Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Konrad Doyle

Seymore Butt - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/May/97

phardman - AltLd - 04/Aug/96 with Jon Bibby

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Aug/83

Mike Owen - 05/Jul/83 with Steve Foxley

Hidden - Lead - 1983

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
wi11, Mike Goldthorp, Ewan Brown, datoon
Total votes cast 18
hard E60 of 6
E60 of 6
easy E60 of 6
hard E50 of 6
E50 of 6
easy E55 of 6
hard E40 of 6
E41 of 6
easy E40 of 6
hard 6b0 of 6
6b0 of 6
easy 6b0 of 6
hard 6a0 of 6
6a5 of 6
easy 6a1 of 6
hard 5c0 of 6
5c0 of 6
easy 5c0 of 6
3 Stars6 of 6
2 Stars0 of 6
1 Star0 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.