Pinnacle Wall*** S 4a
[John (Jud) Jordan on Pinnacle Wall, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
A classic route that weaves an unlikely line up this fine cliff. Start below the right end of the quartz pavement where an easy grassy ramp leads up and right.
1) 15m. Climb the grassy ramp to a stance.
2) 25m. Climb up 3m to gain the quartzy ledge. Saunter along this to belay under the groove at its left-hand end.
3) 4a, 35m. Climb the groove for 10m then trend right along a crack to reach the tip of the pinnacle. Step left and climb the slab above to finish. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, Kirkus Routes, 50 Best HS Routes in the UK., Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Best Multi-pitch Severe and Hard Severe, North wales road to ruins HVS.

Photo: John (Jud) Jordan on Pinnacle Wall © boje
View all 10 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 143 logbooks, and on 55 wishlists.

Jack Manfredi - AltLd - 04/Oct/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/15

Great fun, quartz ramp is very strange and the top pitch is amazing! Lead P3.
static266 - AltLd O/S - 30/Sep/15

Done after Amphitheatre B., Michael lead pitch 1+2 together, I lead 3. Fantastic positions in a great surrounding!
GermanAlex - AltLd O/S - 26/Sep/15 with Michael

Lead first couple of pitches, Alex did a good lead at the last pitch!
Michael Morrell - AltLd - 26/Sep/15 with Alex

bailed onto this from Pinnaclissima after pitch 1
C May - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/15 with Tim

Set off up Pinnaclissima but when the whiteout came in, and our friends on the Grimmett kicked a load of loose rock down the valley, and when I saw how wet the 2nd pitch was we bailed onto this.
Longsufferingropeholder - Lead - 30/Aug/15 with C May

Hidden - Lead - Aug/15

babymoac - AltLd - 27/Jun/15 with Capesy, graham d

I led 1st and 3rd pitches. 3rd pitch one of the best at the grade I've done but felt more like HS
DubyaJamesDubya - AltLd - 13/Jun/15 with Andrew Bevan

Great and quirky route. Difficult to protect long traverse with two seconds.
AndrewP - Lead - 23/May/15 with Josh Chappel, Daniel Bryan

DanielBryan - 2nd - 23/May/15 with Andrew Peterken

sgl - AltLd - 23/Apr/15 with James

Dan724 - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/15 with Ollie Halford

1st and superb 3rd pitch
freemanTom - AltLd - 21/Sep/14 with Andy Night

With darkness chasing us, luckily it's straightforward!
Lessworkmoreclimbing - AltLd - 13/Sep/14 with Kev

p2 only, escape route from Pinnaclissima due to impending darkness
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/14 with Sam (tree surgent)

This is good value for Severe! The quartz pavement is an exercise in steadiness and requires lots of small cams. The top pitch is superb - decent gear lower down, but sparse until you can sling the pinnacle. Led p1 and 3. A huge friend might fit in the crack on the way to the pinnacle.
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/14 with Kin Choi

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 20/Jul/14 with Rhys

poeter210 - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/14 with adrian voss

Led P1 and P2 together. Top of P1 and entire P3 superb with quirky P2 to make things interesting!
druss - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/14 with Peter Ocampo

After solo ascent of Ampitheatre Buttress. Brilliant. Gaining the start by scrambling down to the Ampitheatre felt demanding.
John Nuttall - Solo - 19/Jun/14

Hidden - 15/Jun/14

Col Kingshott - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/14

scott mayled - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/14 with Jonny Harrison, A student

Led P1 and 3. The quartz ramp (P2) is one of the weirdest pitches either of us had done in a while.
cathymiller - AltLd O/S - 31/May/14 with Mike Peak

oldmanofmow - 2014

Allanfairfechan - 2014

guy757 - 24/Sep/13

Pitch 1 & 3
Peter Lovell - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/13

angie - AltLd - 21/Sep/13 with Peter Lovell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13

Led the quartz ramp. P2 and P3 are great
TimKnight - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Dave Marshall

continuation from mur i niwl. megan p1,me p2 (pitches 5 and 6 of mur i niwl/pinnacle wall linkup in Ground Up guide)
pebbles - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with megan beaumont

lead 2nd pitch
pimpy - AltLd - 13/Jul/13 with clare muir

James led the quartz ramp and top wall. Excellent finish to Mur Y Niwl.
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with James (Buxton MC), Alan Smith

Led ramp and slab after Mur Y Niwl. Top pitch is superb!
stemill - AltLd - 06/Jul/13 with Chris Manasseh

Led p2
Chris Manasseh - AltLd - 06/Jul/13 with Ste Millington

great route
Rog Wilko - AltLd - 06/Jul/13 with Graham Phillips

egg-man - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Rog Wilko

lithos - AltLd - 01/Jun/13 with Pete Bradshaw

Partner led pitch one, which I think is the most scary traverse I have ever done. I wasn't quite on my hands and knees, but felt I was! You just have to trust you feet on the blankish slope, and use the small edges that you find for your hands! I led the second pitch, which was good - the main difficulty being the lay-back crack from the belay, which you can protect well.
kim.mulji - AltLd O/S - 25/May/13 with Patrick Goodwin

Should've brought my belay jacket - very cold.
Monkey_Alan - 2nd - 05/May/13 with Lawrence Dudley, Julian Prieto

Led P2
Julian Prieto - AltLd O/S - 05/May/13 with Lawrence Dudley, Alan Blanchflower

Lawrence Dudley - AltLd - 05/May/13 with Julian Prieto, Alan Blanchflower

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/12

I lead the pinnacle pitch.
jayrenegade - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with Prav

Bubbles led P1 of pinnaclisma but the second pitch had a wet section around the crux and I had one RP in between me and the deck so finished up this instead. Great climbing for severe.
Duncan Campbell - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Bubbles

P1, niceish. P3, 4a HS, very enjoyable and gives the route 3***. P2, 4* - scary as ****, not appreciated, more serious than anything on Mur-y-Niwl.
Jams Crwca - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12 with themadbrown

Do not be decieved by the S 4a given in the guidebook-pitch 3 is that but the 'quartzy' ledge of 20?metres was not all pleasant especially when you've climbed Mur y Niwl and you're tired-a metre n a half of ledge which shelves away-exposed with rubbish gear until the far corner! Look for a large rock at the summit rather than the pinnacle we were expecting! Amazing when you top out !
themadbrown - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with james

jjclarke70 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Frank

Lead the ramp and the ledge. JJ lead the main pitch! Jealous! Great finish for a great day!
frankcp87 - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with James Clarke

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Jun/12

Hidden - 2012

Led top and amazing pitch! Run out, not Severe. Stood on tip of pinnacle!
mes32 - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11

Third time for me and an enduring delight. Put a sling around the top of the pinnacle then stand on the very apex to move leftwards onto the slab.
Falko - AltLd - 30/Sep/11 with Steve M

MoWalker3 - 30/Sep/11 with Cormac

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/11

Led P2 & P3. Nice route. The wander along the ledge is easy but unnerving.
Becky E - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Graeme Hammond

just led the first short pitch, Becky led the unusual traverse pitch, and excellent final pitch. 3 stars?? a great link up with Mur y Niwl Great day
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Becky E

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11

Rob Exile Ward - Lead - 09/Jul/11 with Sam Ward

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11

myoung - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/11

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/11 with Mark

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

scorky345 - AltLd - 24/May/11 with Tim Oates

tim20 - AltLd - 24/May/11 with sam corcoran

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Apr/11

Lenny - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with John

Nice rainbow.
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 22/Apr/11 with Tom Jumar

Led P1.
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Dan Matthewman

jshields - Lead - 09/Apr/11 with Ed James

payney1973 - Lead dog - Apr/11

Hidden - 2011

pasbury - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Sep/10

tom.e - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/10 with Claire

Led all pitches including p3 this time. Pitch 3 is gorgeous, easy wall climbing - run it out :-)
Alaric - Lead rpt - 26/Jun/10 with Ed

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10

Pilch - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Mel

Hidden - AltLd - 09/May/10

mikelaing - TR - May/10 with Ian Whitehead

Being able to predict Mrs W's reaction to the traverse, I volunteered to lead it, and kept tactically quiet about what it was like as I did it. I employed the "Hello dear" gambit to sooth nerves before Mrs W launched across it like a true Mustelid!
JiveWeasel - AltLd - 18/Sep/09 with Mrs Weasel

Liked with Mur y Niwl. Amazing climb.Pitch one (JW) no grade listed but I've never enjoyed traverses and the quartz traverse was so unnerving I was practically gibbering! No doubt if it had been on the ground I would have skipped over it but the thought of a huge pendulum virtually froze me completely :-0 Pitch 2 (me) has a nice little crack followed by heading across the face to a fantastic view at the top.
Mrs Weasel - AltLd - 18/Sep/09 with JiveWeasel

Led P1
lucasp - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/09 with Dave C (Lmc)

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/09

Daniel Wrightson - AltLd - 31/May/09 with Steve Gould

Led pitch 2
bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with Paul

jamie ward - AltLd O/S - 30/May/09 with Stuart Williams

What a class route. Great traverse pitch and top pitch was even better!
Conan - AltLd O/S - 24/May/09 with Philippa Reader

linked Mur y Niwl with this, good combo
alicia - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09 with Jamie

Terrific finish to the day after Mur y Niwl.
Gman - AltLd O/S - Aug/07 with Eamon

Sean Kelly - 2007

timmy-ts - 2007

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Jun/06

Top pitch probably the best Severe I've ever done - outstanding.
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/06 with Andy Morris

Ian McNeill - 2006

Chesh - Lead - Aug/05 with ScotsPaul

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/05

Clucky - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/04 with Paul Dickson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/04

Jamie B - AltLd - Jun/04 with Kris Quayle

Alaric - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/03 with Nigel M

Dave Rumney - 12/Jul/03

lukea - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/03 with Al

Ann S - 2nd - Jun/03 with Bill Harrison

Urgles - AltLd O/S - May/03 with steve c

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Sep/02

unfit - AltLd - 03/Sep/02 with john Norman

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Mar/02

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/01

Kirkus was there...
alan moore - 2000

Very wet and cold
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 13/Nov/99 with James Hubbard

iskra2000 - AltLd - 31/Jul/99 with Matt Kingsley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/99

Mark Riley - AltLd - Sep/98 with Stuart Greenall

Lead 1st & 3rd pitches.
Paul-Michael - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/98 with David Jupp

Excellent route, really enjoyable, with quite a climax at the end.
Rog Wilko - AltLd - Jun/98 with Alan Nuttall

Hidden - Solo - 1997

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/96

Marti999 - Lead - Jul/96

Tim Bateman - Lead - 15/Jun/96

Chris Ellis - AltLd - 06/Aug/95 with Louise Pellett

Hidden - AltLd - 1991

Ched - Lead O/S - 1990 with Glyn

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Jun/88

hazeysunshine - AltLd O/S - Jul/87 with Andy K

Nick Biven - 1986

RichardMc - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/85 with Angel Vila

Hidden - AltLd - 1985

Hidden - 2nd - 13/May/84

babymoac - Lead - 10/Jul/82 with MTW & Paul R

leland stamper - Solo - Nov/81

Hidden - AltLd - 1980

Hidden - AltLd - 20/May/79

mikej - AltLd - 29/Jul/77 with Mike Byles

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Aug/73

Hidden - Aug/73

Also soloed
uphillnow - Lead - 1963 with charlie Tanner

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
SenzuBean, birge55, Rebecca North, Dazluke2000, darrenpp, yossarian714, erbridger, Moonwolf, 2602steve, atthedropofahat, Lucylou19, Purely, Alison Page, DanChad, Valentino, matt_read, bendevonport, cwildblood, jandyd05, paulerussell, Tom F Harding, Michael Hood, Tom Hutton, zach.stone, Richard Morgan, Jimb0, tdudley, Ropeboy, snakebite, Ezy Ryder, Ian Archer, PanzerHanzler, localboy, bendurance, sgl0jd, KeithW

Total votes cast 87
hard HS2 of 43
HS1 of 43
easy HS16 of 43
hard S17 of 43
S6 of 43
easy S1 of 43
hard HVD0 of 43
HVD0 of 43
easy HVD0 of 43
hard 4b0 of 1
4b1 of 1
easy 4b0 of 1
hard 4a0 of 1
4a0 of 1
easy 4a0 of 1
hard 3c0 of 1
3c0 of 1
easy 3c0 of 1
3 Stars33 of 43
2 Stars10 of 43
1 Star0 of 43
0 Stars0 of 43
Bag of .....0 of 43
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat