Mike Bayley - 2015
Mike Bayley - 2015
A botanical excursion. Numerous pitches grasping at bundles of fronds whilst "climbing" vertical lillies. The guidebook doesn't seem to mention any of this...pretty ungradeable and quite terrifying at times as the feet paddle in muck. Wellingtons with crampons might have helped.
Lots of short wet, slimy chimneys with no gear.
The Cave Pitch is fantastic but ignore point 7 above. Everyone does the left wall on the tat. Nobody does the right wall.
Babika - 2nd - 22/Sep/14 with jamie skinner
DaveB61 - AltLd - 13/Sep/14 with Mike Dowsett
Character building! Now that is a day out in the mountains! Great fun if a little harrowing at times. Well done Dave for persevering with the Great Chimney Pitch. Dave led all of the awkward chimneys and cave pitch.
MikeDowsett - AltLd - 13/Sep/14 with Dave Bankart
I very rarely give up on a route but this one was so unpleasant I turned back after the 4th pitch. I squelched through copious amounts of veg, put my foot in the hidden carcass of a dead sheep, climbed the odd bit of slimy rock then decided that was enough. It might have been better with a partner although I'm not sure black humour could have improved this 'climb'. Is this a classic? A classic of what? Character building? It's just a revolting gully that would normally be avoided but someone called it a classic and put it in a guide book.
caradoc - Solo dnf - 10/Jul/14
Quite dry, but still got wet. An adventure, some of the route description is now not possible to follow, but the way is easy to follow. Probable VS to most people.
1-2-3-40 - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/14
A waste of a time.
carl_123 - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14
Si - 2014
Allanfairfechan - 2014
nj.harris - 2014
Unfinished Business - A Climb For Jon. HVD my arse.
thedatastream - AltLd - 26/Jul/13 with Ben, Alex Thompson
Type 2 Fun!
BenedictIEP - AltLd - 26/Jul/13 with James Pawson, Alex Thompson
Great adventure, "The Chimney" pitch is a beast, one of the hardest VDiffs I've been on but all good fun.
j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/13
Returned to complete the route in honour of Jon's memory. Dry sunny day made it a lot more pleasant. Mainly soloed/moved together in trainers. Ben had fun leading the chimney, so I took the lead, it would be worth of VS on its own elsewhere! Cave pitch was straightforward, but fun even as the dampest section of the whole climb. Rewarding day out, will need to return for a winter ascent!
Alex Thompson - AltLd rpt - 26/Jul/13 with JP, Ben Powrie
Did I enjoy this.....can tell you my 2nd didn't...I led all the pitches in the wettest conditions, 50 mph winds on top, low cloud, so done authentically. (Is that an extra tick? ;-)
Found it a little confusing in places to find the route, particularly after pitch 5. Aided one small section as it was just nails in big boots with moss and grease! Every pitch a battle and the end is fun....erm...Had to use tat a little as only a ghost would have made it up that wall in the wet! The awkward undercut chimney doesn't exist in my mind ignore the description in the North Wales guide and just carry on up to the last pitch. The gear is better than it looks from below. Good luck. Only tackle it if your confident, or like me wanted the tick for the Classic Rock!
And yes I enjoyed it.
beds74 - Lead - 02/Jul/13 with Craig Hartley
climbed in the dry (cheating?) - cave pitch a beauty.
JasonV - Lead - 08/Jun/13 with Matt
andy_e - 2nd O/S - 04/May/13
Horrible, wet, mossy gully climb, climbed in B2 mountain boots and full waterproofs
Joel_e - 2nd dog - 04/May/13 with Andrew Erskine, Michael Gallimore
Hidden - 2013
TheAndyBarker - 2013
Deifinitely a character building climb...! Big boots until the Great Chimney
btc - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Gabby
Harri777 - AltLd - 28/Jul/12 with Chiz
Hidden - AltLd dog - 28/Jul/12
Amazonian adventure! 3.5 hours in flippers
wilkie14c - Lead - 23/May/12 with Dave Clarke
First climb outdoors in a while. It brought back to me all the things I love about climbing - delicate moves, exposure, warm dry rock... The chimney pitch felt about VS - good lead by Matthew
JGW - AltLd - Apr/12 with Matt Tilley
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - 2012
TheAndyBarker - 2012
TheAndyBarker - 2012
captain dringo - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Horribly wet, suffering from mild hypothermia. Left cursing Thomson & Ken Wilson...
Alex Thompson - AltLd dnf - 20/Aug/11 with Jon Thompson
Beast of a climb! Chimney pitch in wet/slimy conditions was harder than Mur Y Niwl!
Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 23/Jul/11
Quality!! Very keen to see it in winter nick now
craigjfjones - AltLd - 04/Jul/11
Dry ! Cave pitch is great fun and easy, chimney is hard !
lithos - AltLd - 29/Apr/11
Rob led the Chimney pitch (the hardest VDiff in the world), Rob and I both led the Cave Pitch, various people led the rest.
A fantastic route which I even enjoyed at the time, possibly because it was dry!
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/11 with Pete B, Dave D, Rob, Carmen
Bob - 2011
Tobias at Home - 2011
Tobias at Home - 2011
dan-8990 - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/10 with AO
wet shit hole!
The Green Giant - AltLd O/S - 08/Oct/10 with Dan with the van
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Oct/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/10
Less said the better - maybe it will seem more classic in the morning!
Slick - AltLd - 27/Jun/10 with Kevin Vans-Colina
Hidden - 27/Jun/10
Chimney pitch is the hardest. Feet feel like they could slip at any moment. Using pretty much just hands, and looping arm through in-situ rope, I got my foot up into the crack at the back allowing for a hands off rest. I was glad for my long reach as I grabbed the finish hold and swung onto it. The cave pitch started nerve racking as the hand holds are not great and the foot ledge is rather wet and it is dark. on reaching the arete feature the climb becomes easy although I still used a knee to get onto the boulder.
Lawrence Eccles - Solo O/S - 17/May/10
bit of an epic...
aipattison - AltLd dnf - 05/Dec/09 with Henry
had a bit of an epic.
sweenyt - AltLd dnf - 05/Dec/09 with UBMC
Great fun. Perfect weather for this one (piss wet and windy). Classic adventure. Chimney is the hardest bit.
decs - 19/Aug/09 with Sam
in the rain
sgl - AltLd - 19/Aug/09 with duncan
Beautiful day, 6 hour climb including a couple of tea-breaks, interesting route finding, occasionally holds consisting of decaying vegetation and then I got to lead the Cave Pitch for a finale. Quite an adventure. Punctured front and back tyres 1/4 mile from car park on the way home. Many thanks to Ped and Sue at the Red Lion in Ty'n y Groes for putting us up at such short notice!
towdman - AltLd - 28/May/09 with Daniel Armitage
Daniel Armitage - AltLd O/S - 28/May/09 with Paul Armitage
Dirty, moss filled, water fall full of dead animals. Absoluelty superb yehaa
A Crook - Lead O/S - 04/May/09 with Dom Stockton
Hidden - AltLd β - 20/Dec/08
A banter filled expedition of the most pristine calibre. Enhance enjoyment by picking the shortest day of the year, dont start the route until 12.30, and ensure hurricane winds and zero visibility greet you at the top.
dont forget headtorch, map AND compass, victory bottle of stella, and full, working waterpfoofs.
Probably VDiff climbing but VERY wet, on the verge of ghyll scrambling. Final pitch must be one of the most enthralling experiences in north wales, as close to a scottish winter experience you can get with no snow. Get involved!!
david morse - AltLd - 20/Dec/08 with Todd,Lea+Ric
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Dec/08
This climb is cold, wet, mossy, dark, slimey, green, scarey, in know way anywhere as easy as a Vdiff but definately one of the best climbs and mountain days out you will ever have!!!
cheeky - AltLd - 28/Sep/08 with Mark Philipson
A true adventure. It felt like climbing into a lost world due to amount of vegetation, moss and slime all the way up. Chimney pitch way beyond VD, poss upper end of VS. Don't ever expect dry conditions, it would take several Napalm strikes for pitches to be dry and free of moss! as for a clean lead, we climbed for survival. A definate must do and save for a rainy day, as this route will never be dry.
mark4344 - AltLd - 28/Sep/08 with Matt Payne
Epic and amazing (though you won't think that while you're on it). Agree with comments below - can a V-Dif include a brutally hard overhang in a very wet, mossy, snotty, slimy chimney with nothing for your feet and a leap of faith to get to the top? It'd be a shame to grade it VS though - XVD is bang on! Obviously a lot of climbers must miss the Great Chimney/converging walls pitch out, a shame as 1, it's the crux and 2, the amount of swear words you excrete going up it, especially if raining and you're wearing a big rucksack, will impress any Turrette's sufferer! The superb cave pitch is easy in comparison! Original grade XVD - Thomson sure wasn't kidding! Belter.
jimorothy - Lead O/S - 17/May/08 with Rachel Crolla
Climbed in rain
tedburt - AltLd O/S - 04/May/08 with Aaron Burdett
Hidden - 2008
Hidden - 2008
BALD EAGLE - AltLd - 11/Nov/07 with Will Wykes
Hidden - AltLd - 27/Oct/07
Dom Whillans - 2007
Hidden - 30/Sep/06
Grade? Impossible to say! Unless there is a system that copes with slime, vegetation, and dripping, greasy vertical walls, with dead sheep en route. Style? Various, and whatever worked at the time. Also scene of first proper leader fall, from the top of the great chimney, down about 5m.
Caralynh - 30/Sep/06 with Lizzie (Flicka)
Jonny M - AltLd dog - 09/Sep/06 with Andre Knirsch
Mike Bailey, Mervin Lamacraft & Adrian Fagg
PanzerHanzler - 2nd O/S - 08/Jul/06 with Mervyn Lamacraft
Ian McNeill - 2006
Steve Lenartowicz - 2005 with Clare
lukewilliams - 2nd - 24/Mar/04
DerwentDiluted - AltLd - Oct/02 with J. Ellson
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/01
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/01
IanGilbertJones - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/00
alan moore - Solo - 2000
runestone - 2000
Wet and slimey. Backed off after 4 pitches.
Gman - AltLd dnf - Dec/99 with Dan
Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 06/Jun/98 with Stuart Magill
ColdAndWet - Lead - 1998
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/97
Hidden - AltLd - 18/Jun/96
Hidden - AltLd - 1996
Hidden - AltLd - 23/Aug/95
Budge - AltLd O/S - Jul/95 with Mike Pyecroft
Ian Archer - AltLd - 24/Jun/95 with CDW
chris d williams - 24/Jun/95 with Ian Archer
cornishben - AltLd O/S - 1995
Hidden - AltLd - 05/Dec/93
Climbed with big boots, and rucksack whilst dodging the rain
RichardP - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/91 with Steve Massey
phardman - 1990
Fopllowed by Chris B & deek on another rope. Ronan was carrying the beers - though he didn't know it.
babymoac - Lead - 25/Nov/89 with Ronan
Nick Biven - AltLd - 1989
biggianthead - 20/Jun/87 with M
Hidden - AltLd - 09/Aug/86
Hidden - Lead - 28/Jun/86
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Feb/86
nigehughes - AltLd - Sep/82 with Jim Hindman
leland stamper - Solo O/S - 07/Nov/81
Hidden - 1981
Nigel Bond - AltLd - 23/Sep/78 with Tony Cuddy
mikej - AltLd - 29/Jul/77 with Mike Byles
Hidden - May/77
Chris Craggs - 1975
David Smith - Lead - 1965 with John Sargeant
Well iced throughout. Lower pitches easy. Door Jamb turned on right wall very icy, a very worrying long stride on to a very icy hold. On belay below Door Jamb a great block of ice fell on to the belay ledge 1 min after I had vacated it. Great cave difficult in near darkness.
Alternate leads with Max McGlashan. RUMC meet
oldmanofmow - AltLd - 08/Feb/58