Erotica HS
[Preparing for the top-out (up and left) of Erotica, Soar Mill Cove., 2 kb]20m. Ascend a groove on the right to reach a niche, move left and climb direct to the top. Descend by simultaneous abseil. Poor quality loose rock which does not improve with height. The only belay at the top is a long sling around the landward end of the stack, approximately 4m from the top of the route. This climb is 300m south-east of Soar Mill Cove; access by parking at the Soar Mill Cove hotel (£4 paid at the hotel) or along the coastal path. At low tide the stack can be accessed by walking along the beach and scrambling over boulders but this is probably better for the way out rather than the way in; the base of the stack is somewhat tidal. The stack can also be accessed at higher tides by scrambling down a steep grassy gully; Erotica begins from a platform on the seaward side.
J. Fowler, S. Fowler, S. Bell 16/Jan/1977

Ticklists: Sub Extreme South West Sea Stacks.

Photo: Preparing for the top-out (up and left) of Erotica, Soar Mill Cove. © KDhruev
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This climb is in 2 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Descended by the gully, walked out along the beach. Simultaneous abseil off the stack (me and Ed) followed by counterweighted abseil between Ed and Keiha. There is a surprising amount of 'potential' gear placements but most would explode in the event of a fall.
andrewmcleod - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/13 with Ed Lemon, Keiha Dhruev

lemon - 2nd - 08/Dec/13

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