UKC

50m, 2 pitches. On left-hand buttress. Towards centre of buttress is a shield of rock on a steep wall at about 5m height (just to the left of a bay of more broken looking rock). 1) 25m, 4c. Start just to the right of the shield of rock. Climb up easy angled dark rock to a spike, then climb up to the right hand side of the shield of rock. Step across left below the shield of rock, then move steeply upwards onto a leftward slanting ramp. Follow the ramp to a ledge, then go up the short wall behind to belay on the large ledge system.
2) 25m, 4b. Above the large ledge is an obvious leftward slanting crackline. Climb this, followed by easier climbing to the top.

Paul Bolton, Chris Smith 06/Dec/2013.

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Trapeze Direct

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Tizi Gzaouine Gorge)

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