Gwynedd > Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal) >
 
Capital Punishment*** E3 5c

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[Searching for better gear., 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Lonely Leads, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Photo: Searching for better gear. © Luke Brooks
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 84 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

seconding this gave me the confidence to lead route 1 . happy to do it clean less bold than expected. nice work jacko
JamesWilliams - 2nd O/S - 08/Sep/14 with Jack Lawledge

Hidden - Lead β - 26/Jun/14

Never very hard but I wound't like to fall off the slab!
Rachel Slater - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/14 with Anna Gilyeat

Amazing rock, slab felt like a gritstone solo. from the thread to the top felt great and relatively easy, confidence high.
GuyVG - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Liam P, oli, 5c Steve

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14

Ed F - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Will sim

Owain Llewelyn - 2nd - 18/Jul/13 with Gareth E

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/13 with sam read

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Jul/13

ellis - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Alan Willoner

Fantastic boldtastic! Good climbing throughout, a bit of a shame about the two ledges but I guess they add a spice if you come off. Technical but not strenuous and not that hard for 5c but sustained and requires focus. The gearless slab to get to the gear is E3 5b, do not fall! Relieved to find a good cam in an undercut pocket round the arete, also had an ok number 1 nut and a poor friend there - on the whole, a good cluster of gear to protect to moves to the thread. Mild E3 5c for that bit. The thread is manky but it was easy enough to add my own. Jugtastic from the thread to the ledge, then interest is maintained on the final steepening to the belay. Midged on the belay! Just did SWR1 and this as only left Birmingham at noon, so left Idwal Cottage around 3.45pm and back at 10pm, not bad for an evening's work! Scorching blue sky day so this was a good crag to go to, it was just about warm enough to climb comfortably (in fact got cold fingers on the start of SWR1).
Misha - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Ed

eduardo - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Misha

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/13

Brand new shoes ensured foot agony and clumsiness, so not a pleasnat ascent despite the classic status. Dirty/damp. Can understand the grade disparity - should 2 grades above the norm for technical 5c (E2) equal chop route or merely serious? Felt E4 to me, but not a chop route.
zero six - Lead O/S - May/12

Nick Sillem - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11

robinsi197 - 2nd - 30/Jul/11 with Nick

Awesome, terrifying. Felt unsure at the bottom but a bit of a verbal push from Mason spurred me on. Hard moves above potentially poor, small RPs feels like top-end E3/bottom end E4, Not a great deal of hard 5c but quite a bit of easy 5c/hard 5b in serious positions. Chalked up from an ascent earlier that day and a bit of knowledge on where to go from Mase, but OS apart from that. Brilliant climbing on the pocketed wall above the thread. My ascent of the year so far? Psyched!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead β - 25/Jul/11 with Mason

I thought it was E4 and I was only seconding it!
zukator - 2nd O/S - 11/Apr/11 with Owain

Awesome route.As said before climbing is steady,but sustained and pretty run out in places.
Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 10/Apr/11 with Dad

Hidden - 2011

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

pasbury - 2011

phil64 - 2011

HamishD - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/10 with Alex

akhughes - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/10 with Jonnie Stocking

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Definitive E4 5c. Very sustained and bold in the first half. Absolutely awesome route.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/10 with Laura Perry

Hidden - 2010

frost - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/09 with D Almond

Dave Almond - 2nd - 24/Jun/09 with Simon Frost

Awesome! great to finally do the classic that i've wanted to do for years. Ever isnce seeing the pic in the P. Williams guise and feeling gripped just looking at it. Can understand Nic and popp soloing it, relatively steady. brilliant route.
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 25/May/09

Adam Booth - 2nd O/S - 25/May/09 with Ed Booth

barni - 2nd - 20/Sep/08 with Cal

felt serious (would be if you fluffed it) but climbing is straightforward. nice, technical moves into the groove with a jug fest above the thread and some very nice pockets on upper corner
ksjs - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/08 with jo

datoon - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with K & RT

tuftynick - 2008

jeffmcd56 - Lead O/S - 2008 with Wez

Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead O/S - 2008 with Al Leary

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Aug/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/07

superb!
IOAN D - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/06 with Mills

Dan 85 - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/06 with Fiend

Ian McNeill - 2006

mattyork2 - 2nd O/S - Jul/05 with simon witcher

spidey - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/03 with gruff

Brilliant pitch, my first on-sight E4 lead since losing my fingers on the Skull in 1997.
Dave Musgrove - Lead O/S - May/02 with Katherine Schirmacher

Dave Rumney - Lead - 29/Jul/01 with Sean Roberts

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/May/01

Before this date
D Tempest - Lead - 01/Jan/00 with Rick

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead - 2000

DJonsight - 2000

Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 2000 with KM

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/99 with Robin & Tim Bonner

Roget - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/99 with jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/97

Dave Musgrove Jnr - 2nd - 13/Apr/97 with Jon Sykes, Muir Morton

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/96

richparry - Lead O/S - 1996

Hidden - 2nd - 1995

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1995

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Nick Biven - Lead O/S - 1994

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/93 with Alan Holden

whispering nic - Jun/92

Hidden - 2nd - 1992

Brilliant climbing. Top end of the grade though.
Bob - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/91 with Tom Leppart

We went to do route 1 but Colin was having a hard time trying to start it, I suggested we move down the cliff to a respectable distance to give him space,while we were sitting I eyed up CP and after about 15 mins had convinced myself that I could lead it, Steve thought I was joking when I told him we were going for it! A real trad climbers route, don't fall off before you clip the thread after the crux moves cos the gear before is pants. Finished it with whoops of elation and cruised Route 1 straight after.
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead O/S - Jul/91 with Steven Murphy

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/90 with Andy W

keefe - 1990

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1990

led all
michael burrows - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/89 with brian jones

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/84

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 18/Aug/83 with Bill McKee, Dave Abbey

Mike Owen - 12/Jun/83 with Al Stewart

Hidden - Lead - 1983

Chris Craggs - Lead - 1980

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Liam Ingram, Hidden, climbingpixie, jimmyjinxter, Hidden, Paul McCallum, Ian Jones, Hidden, Ed Booth, Ched, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 60
hard E40 of 17
E41 of 17
easy E412 of 17
hard E31 of 17
E33 of 17
easy E30 of 17
hard E20 of 17
E20 of 17
easy E20 of 17
hard 6a0 of 16
6a0 of 16
easy 6a0 of 16
hard 5c2 of 16
5c13 of 16
easy 5c1 of 16
hard 5b0 of 16
5b0 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
3 Stars26 of 27
2 Stars1 of 27
1 Star0 of 27
0 Stars0 of 27
Bag of .....0 of 27
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Style of ascent

Lead47 of 84 (56.0%)
Followed19 of 84 (22.6%)
Unknown18 of 84 (21.4%)

'Climbed'35 of 84 (41.7%)
clean O/S46 of 84 (54.8%)
clean β2 of 84 (2.4%)
clean rpt1 of 84 (1.2%)