Morpheus** VD 4a
[Dave Mahon on the traverse - pitch 4, 2 kb]4 pitches. A long and popular trip that has masses of interesting climbing punctuated with good belay ledges. The climbing is fairly tough in places but these sections are well-protected. Begin at a short wall just right of the thin crack at the start of Gronk.. 1) 4a, 28m. Boulder up the short steep wall to a big ledge and a good nut runner. Wander right to an easy-angled blocky corner. Follow the corner for a couple of moves until easy-angled slabs and short walls lead back leftwards to a belay in a little bay at a tall white-stained flake.. 2) 16m. Layback up to the top of the flake and move right and up. Continue up short walls slightly right until a move left gains easy ground and a block covered belay ledge which is below a corner with an intermittent wide crack in it.. 3) 10m. Climb the corner to an old peg and overcome the next section of the corner by moving right and up. Continue to a good stance on the right. Climbing the corner and wide crack direct is much harder.. 4) 12m. Move up to below a small bush and then climb diagonally right to a ledge and the top. © ROCKFAX
M Rhodes 1956

Ticklists: South West Climbs for a Northerner, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Avon sub-VSes.

Photo: Dave Mahon on the traverse - pitch 4 © matt.jj
View all 7 photos or

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 723 logbooks, and on 31 wishlists.

RKirke - 2nd O/S - 30/Oct/14 with Shane, Andy French

Hidden - 2nd dog - 26/Oct/14

Mackinclimb - Lead - 01/Oct/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Sep/14

Annabel Tall - 2nd - 26/Sep/14 with Andy Trek, Barry Donovan

Nice little adventure, tried taking the slab direct after the last belay (Death or Dishonour?) and took a bit of a whipper. Finished as normal.
nathanxmas - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/14 with Dave

DavidWilby - 2nd - 10/Sep/14 with Nathan

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Sep/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/14

JamesRich - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/14 with Adam Vaslet

Martin1973 - AltLd - 26/Aug/14 with Huw Gilbert

Alessandro Tentori - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Kirsten Donovan

roryferris - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14

Jack Porteous - Lead - 23/Aug/14 with Alex Rowe

s.thursz - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/14 with jack potous

Jack Porteous - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/14 with Simon Thursz

great evening out =, found loads of free gear :)
s.thursz - AltLd - 20/Aug/14 with jack potous

SiyP - Lead - 16/Aug/14 with Martin Hauge

rhys.nadin - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/14 with Richard Nadin and Max Paulus

Alex Winter - Solo O/S - 08/Aug/14

Keelan McNulty - Lead O/S - Aug/14

Finished along the Gronk traverse
georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Caitlin

LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/14

corinrathbone - 2nd rpt - 22/Jul/14 with Łukasz Harazin

Left my number 1 wallnut & a draw slightly off- route on the second pitch; had a scenic detour round the hawthorn right of the route and my second didn't find it :( If anyone happens upon it please shout! 07980 744 497. Otherwise good fun, some spicy moves for HVD!
Abs - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/14

Not sure why it deserves 2 stars - too much dirt, vegetation, polish and broken glass to outweigh the few enjoyable moves in my opinion. I think 1 star would be more fitting.
dansmonkeytroubles - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/14 with Dot Greaves

first steps in getting back onto rock, outing with instructor Dave Talbot
PaulWatson - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/14 with DaveTalbot

Good fun
nicknicely - AltLd - 17/Jul/14 with steve

Steve Bartle - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/14 with nicknicely

Liked the first pitch, was scared by the second pitch. Then it got dark and someone was climbing above us. Finished in the dark.
sianabanana - 2nd β - 16/Jul/14 with Merten

Zerocks - Lead rpt - 16/Jul/14 with Sian

Harry Thorpe - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Anushka

Anushka Puri - 2nd O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Harry Thorpe

Huw P1+3, Me P2+4. Climbing the corner direct on P3 is definitely harder!
timstyles - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/14 with Huw Howells

jumpingrock - 05/Jul/14

riff156 - 2nd rpt - 05/Jul/14 with Hannah Carter

Rob Morgan - Lead - 02/Jul/14

Tom F Harding - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/14 with Rob Morgan

P1 and P3. Great climb, the corner is very polished, although nothing too bad!
BStar - AltLd rpt - 25/Jun/14 with Dan Carron, Rachael

got to the ledges above the layback then decided it was getting too late and bailed. not without stress. some other guys abbed from (i think) gronk and they let us ab on their ropes, which was nice of them and saved me a dodgy down climb.
wjcdean - Lead dnf - 25/Jun/14 with Will McLay

Second time climbing this, excellent climb
Rachael88 - 2nd - 25/Jun/14 with Dan, Adam

Ended up doing Gronk 3rd pitch and added a direct finish around S/HS!
badgerjockey - AltLd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Kuang

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/14

shaunleonard - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/14 with Ian

Worth the 2 stars but polished as buggery. Wouldn't recommend this to any new leader as it's a fairly serious undertaking and route finding isn't the most obvious on the CC guidebook topo. Led P1 and strung the last 2 pitches together.
mariannekhoo - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/14 with Denise Morgan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Jun/14

Matt CS - 2nd - 26/May/14

the ant hill mob - AltLd O/S - 18/May/14 with Jessica Crump

Hidden - AltLd - 16/May/14

mutly - Lead O/S - 13/May/14 with Alex W, Carla

Combined P1 & P2 then benighted after a late start, so abbed off from a large block at the belay - perfect easy escape. Beautiful sunset!
Dave Ing - Lead rpt - 13/May/14 with Jenny H-I

alexwolf47 - 2nd O/S - 13/May/14

Led pitch 4&5eventually remembered some of the moves.
leland stamper - AltLd rpt - 12/May/14 with Alex

Lead P1-3 in one. Slipped on polish at the start of P4, but landed back on the ledge.
humptydumpty - AltLd O/S - 12/May/14

Senna - Lead O/S - 05/May/14

Jeff did 3 out of the 4 pitches. His first time at leading.
Dave Mahon - AltLd - 04/May/14 with Jeff Mashburn

Jeff Mashburn - AltLd β - 04/May/14 with Dave Mahon

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 02/May/14

drgrange - AltLd - 30/Apr/14 with Ali

1st pitch of Gronk, then Morpheus
Jim Brooke - Lead rpt - 16/Apr/14 with James Jackson

youwillfindjimbo - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/14

BBEENN - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14

Did as a training climb with Baz leading and George and following. Multipitch abseil out.
Annabel Tall - 2nd - 24/Mar/14 with Barry Donovan, George Tall

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Mar/14

In the rain and hail!
John Cornish - 2nd - 22/Mar/14 with Steph, Gavin Edwards

Had a great day with Steph and John leading up this awesome route. It was a bit wet in places which made it tough. Then it hailed. Wow, that 4th pitch in a hail storm was terrifying! Left a nut at the first belay ledge as my second couldn't remove it :( Let me know if you find it (07809 053147)!
gavin.edwards - Lead O/S - 22/Mar/14 with John Hocking

Brilliant afternoon, led P1&3
Alex_RhodesUK - AltLd rpt - 20/Mar/14 with Dawn

emilyjhunt - 2nd - 19/Mar/14 with Jaspar Topham

Lovely sunny weather. Did in 5 pitches (split the first pitch as there was a group above us). Relatively straight forward, a couple of awkward moves on polished rock, some good gear and some not so good as my 2nd nicely told me when half of it had lifted/popped out. I would say this is the top end of a VDiff or bottom end of HVD with the polish.
BStar - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Rachael

robertcollier - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Emily Collier

First ever outdoor climb. Took it steady. Baz leading. Felt very secure despite being new to cliff exposure. Loved it!
Annabel Tall - 2nd - 16/Mar/14 with Barry Donovan

Rachael88 - 2nd - 16/Mar/14 with Adam

We were supposed to have climbed 'Gronk' but picked the wrong line sadly, as pitch 2 of 'Morpheus' is dull. Pitch 3 is nice.
matt.jj - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Dave Mahon

cteakle - 2nd - 15/Mar/14 with Danny

dmetcalfe - Lead - 15/Mar/14 with claire

Rebs - AltLd - 12/Mar/14 with Rob

R_W_M - AltLd rpt - 12/Mar/14 with Rebs

AndySL - Lead rpt - 09/Mar/14 with Deano

Deary65 - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/14

Led P1 and 2 including an unexpected date with Gronk which lead to an interesting traverse. First multi-pitch lead.
thom_jenkinson - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/14 with Emily Ford, Ben Caley

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 05/Mar/14

bencaley - AltLd β - 05/Mar/14 with Emily Ford

David Staples - AltLd O/S - Mar/14

Seconded first pitch, started to lead second pitch but backed off when dropped nuts.. Led 3rd pitch. First trad lead wooo
hp.hunt - Lead - 26/Feb/14 with Sam Hooper

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Feb/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/14

Psych - Lead O/S - Feb/14

Easty14 - AltLd - 07/Dec/13

Pippa Churcher - 2nd - 16/Nov/13 with laurence falconer

laurence_falconer - Lead - 16/Nov/13 with pippa churcher

P1 3 and 4. Quite an undertaking for vd but still a good route to warm up on and get a feel for avon climbing. Nice. **
luke glaister - AltLd O/S - 15/Nov/13 with casey johns

Pitch 2 as my partner became greedy!
casey johns - AltLd O/S - 15/Nov/13 with luke glaister

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 25/Oct/13

Led pitches 2 and 4. A cheeky warm up for spa training weekend! In cat 4 sunglasses in fading light.....
AndyRogers - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/13 with ianlaw

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Oct/13

Steve Woollard - AltLd - 15/Oct/13 with Zack Coleman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/13

First multi-pitch lead! Missed the first belay spot and finished in the dark - otherwise went very well.
bencaley - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/13 with Laura Shaw

jack.williams1 - AltLd - 25/Sep/13

2nd pitch in the dark with headtorches
robh14 - Lead - 25/Sep/13

masmith - AltLd - 25/Sep/13 with Jack Williams

corinrathbone - 2nd - 21/Sep/13 with Matt Claydon

ali macphee - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/13

ali macphee - 2nd - 21/Sep/13

matt_claydon - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/13 with Corin rathbone

Hidden - Lead - 21/Sep/13

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Sep/13

riff156 - AltLd rpt - 14/Sep/13 with Jo Smith

aelaeks - AltLd - 14/Sep/13

ali macphee - AltLd O/S - 01/Sep/13

felixizzy - Lead O/S - Sep/13

Excellent afternoon outing. Bit polished in parts but not really a problem as lots of options. Led it in 3 pitches with Sophie and Jon taking turns as second and third.
wilsers - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/13 with Jon Fawell, Sophie Rolls

Climbed second of three, Andy Wilson leading, me seconding, Sophie Rolls last.
JonnyFawell - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13

WKaufhold - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13

Lead 2nd and 4th pitches. Some bold moves and little protection in places
Tom Harper - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/13

lukimotaka - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/13 with Josh

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/13

Helen.Burgess - 2nd - 14/Aug/13 with Joe Bone, Hal Roberts

sarahrowlands - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with richard savill

richardsavill - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/13 with Sarah Rowlands

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13

Richardlake - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with William Lake

Second left my number 1 purple nut at the first belay, if anyone finds it!
danieleaston - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/13 with Ruth

maresia - AltLd rpt - 06/Aug/13 with Sina Ali

Great route. 2 pitches. First pitch to ledge with good gear and seating. Start of 2nd pitch quite polished.
Deary65 - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/13

tp45597 - AltLd - 28/Jul/13 with sam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/13

Nice climb. Second could not retrieve a nut from the first belay and was getting too late to begin a rescue operation. If anyone gets it and fancies a beer let me know. Possibly left another on there too, wild country rocks 1 & 2.
sjbrook - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/13 with Ashley James

nicknicely - 2nd - 23/Jul/13

First ever solo! It was incredible but also rather scary
climbEdclimb - Solo O/S - 18/Jul/13

danieleaston - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/13 with Mark

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13

Took a lot longer than we thought!
Loubylou - AltLd - 11/Jul/13 with Andy Ball

maresia - Lead rpt - 08/Jul/13 with Louise Baltesz

Loubylou - 2nd - 08/Jul/13 with Alicia Whitaker, Ben Ashley

Lead 1, 3 and 4. Pretty intimidating feeling first route in a while. First multi-pitch in AGES.
The Iain - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with Rob

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13

mutly - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/13 with John L, Vicky B

Vienna had her first epic on p2 going too far on the ramp!
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Vienna

Lead first two pitches in one. Nice climb.
BenBird - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/13 with Stew Nutter

Lead the last 2 pitches.
Stew nutter - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/13 with Ben bird

CallumSmith - AltLd - Jul/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13

Climber in 3 pitches (linked 1&2). Lead all pitches. Base jumpers jumped overhead during a belay.
mikedevcole - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13

Huw Mithan - AltLd - 17/Jun/13 with Tom Sauter

First lead in 9 months. Shaking like a ***ting dog the whole way. Nice day though!
mullermn - Lead β - 09/Jun/13 with Simon Perkins, Bethan

Bethan - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Simon Perkins, Andy Arbon

Pitches 2 and 3.
pheotleyr - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/13 with Jana

richardsavill - AltLd - 04/Jun/13 with jez blake

sianabanana - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Merten

Zerocks - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Sian

Jamiet297 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Adam Livett

laurence_falconer - 01/Jun/13 with Tom Hill

Laurence led first 3 pitches, I led top (my first lead!).
t_hill - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Laurence

philmcf - AltLd - Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/13

Jon Pilling - Lead O/S - Jun/13 with Sttevei Atalla

I did the even pitches. Some guy dropped his ATC, didn't shout 'below' heard it go denk, as it bounced down the crag
Mayaculpa - AltLd - 26/May/13 with Stewart Webb

JakubKepinski - 25/May/13

Hidden - AltLd - 22/May/13

Climbed with other Chris. Had a bit of an epic with a "direct" finish!
ChrisUK - AltLd O/S - 18/May/13

tc7118 - Lead O/S - 18/May/13

Luke Jones - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Luke Bibbey

maresia - 2nd rpt - 05/May/13 with Josh Ravenscroft

Moved Together, really good route, with excellent moves
laurence_falconer - Lead β - 02/May/13 with Laura Shaw

laurashaw - 2nd - 02/May/13 with laurence falconer

Rainy evening climb. Finishing up in the dark without a headtorch; classic way to start a new partnership! Starting from the ledge at the bottom ran it through in three pitches. DL led the first and last pitches. KA led the middle pitch.
fragglerock - AltLd rpt - May/13 with Kevin Aston

philmcf - Lead - May/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/13

Pete Rigby - AltLd rpt - 26/Apr/13 with Kelli Roberts

kelliroberts3 - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/13 with Peter Rigby

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Apr/13

Jon Ellis - AltLd rpt - 25/Apr/13 with James Ellis

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Apr/13

Enjoyable route and nowhere near as polished as I was expecting. Did the last 2 pitches in one. Traffic noise was awful, glad to have the radios! Fred's first multi-pitch.
Alex Parker - 2nd - 17/Apr/13 with laura parker

Really enjoyable climb and it was Fred's first multipitch route - he loved it! Papabear (my husband as of 3rd March) did a great job too - pneumonia won't keep him on the ground!
Laura Parker - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/13 with Alex Parker

colinkeb - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/13 with john presley

Colin dropped his nuts, almost killing Hannan Brading who was bouldering at the bottom of the crag. ;)
johnnyhobo - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Colin Baker

Amazing for the grade I guess. As onsight as possible after having done the first pitch as part of Sleepwalk before. And a reasonably solid solo, was just a tiny bit nervous on the last pitch...
pheotleyr - Solo O/S - 04/Mar/13

Mark Salter - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/13 with Chris Shorrock

Griff1990 - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13 with Becky Pollard

laurence_falconer - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/13 with Zolly Whitaker

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Feb/13

Jon Ellis - 2nd β - 16/Feb/13 with James Corneloues, Robert Duer

An intro the Gorge for James and Jon, very enjoyable as always.
Bobling - AltLd - 16/Feb/13 with Jon, James

robbiek - AltLd - 05/Feb/13 with will brown

Will O' T'' North - AltLd - 05/Feb/13 with R King

lead odd pitches. First time on multipitch after PyB course, absolutely khacked it all the way up
wjcdean - AltLd O/S - Feb/13 with Trevers

steve-grigg - AltLd O/S - 13/Jan/13

maddy92 - AltLd - 13/Jan/13 with steve-grigg

Repeat. I led the even pitches this time, leaving the polished little arete at the start of P3 for Jason :-) Great weather for January, Morpheus does not disappoint
Mayaculpa - AltLd - 05/Jan/13 with Jason

jayyaj - AltLd - 05/Jan/13 with Mike Unwin

jonbwoy - 2013

steve_gibbs - Solo O/S - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Lead first and last pitches. Were slightly unsure of route due to lack of a guide book, and finished in the dark!
laurence_falconer - AltLd - 05/Dec/12 with Sam Coppard

Done in 4 pitches. First ever outdoor lead for myself and Will without an instructor. Took ages over it. Will dropped his nutkey, tried to lower off to find it, couldn't find it and left the nut behind too :|
Trevers - AltLd - 01/Dec/12 with wjcdean

KDW - 2nd - 18/Nov/12 with Old Dude, Andy

Hidden - 2nd RP - 13/Nov/12

My partners first multipitch climb so I lead all the pitches, did in the standard 4. Pitch 3 is a gem :)
Kate Edhouse - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/12 with Alex Dunhill

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Nov/12

sideshow84 - 2nd O/S - Nov/12

georgeevans88 - Solo O/S - 21/Oct/12

Psych - AltLd O/S - Oct/12

Speedy 10 minute ascent moving together
maresia - 2nd rpt - 29/Sep/12 with Mike Kann

Pleb - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with 2PointO

P1 and 3 - Me P 2 and 4 - Pleb. Did a variation of the first pitch going up Gronk as far as the top of the first shallow slab, traversing across this before a few steep pulls up crumbly looking flakes took you to the right of the belay.
Stuart William - AltLd O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Pleb

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Sep/12

wurzelinzummerset - AltLd rpt - 01/Sep/12 with Jim

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12

BazJScott - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12

Slick - AltLd - 20/Aug/12 with Isabel Evans

Hidden - AltLd - 20/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12

wendy P1, then i ran the last 3 pitches as one :)
arandall - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Wendy Matthews

Wendy Watthews - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/12

SP 1,3 AM 2,4
SiyP - AltLd O/S - 11/Aug/12 with McCoy

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Aug/12

rickstaylor - AltLd rpt - 09/Aug/12

Psych - AltLd rpt - Aug/12

jarodbishop - AltLd - Aug/12 with Richard

Mel's first climb. Low faff climbing. Amazingly sunny and dry considering heavy morning rain.
Kemics - Lead rpt - 29/Jul/12

Too big to enjoy, got a bit spooked.
Kemics - Solo rpt - 24/Jul/12

Tom Brierley Gore - Solo rpt - 23/Jul/12

Attempt #2 after abandoning the crag due to rain the previous day. Had to park on Circular Road at the top of the cliffs and walk down due to a cycling event of some sort closing the entire dual carriageway for miles in both directions. Lead all 4 pitches. P3 quite shiny but still good.
cdpuk - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Alex Peka

Done in two pitches. Exposed and then it rained. Hard work!
SteveRyan - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/12 with Rob Pattison

Good climb apart from completing the last pitch in the rain and loosing a cam and nut!!!!
pattisonr - AltLd - 11/Jul/12 with Steve Ryan

Good climb apart from completing the last pitch in the rain and loosing a cam and nut!!!!
pattisonr - AltLd - 11/Jul/12 with Steve Ryan

Psych - AltLd O/S - Jul/12

Psych - AltLd rpt - Jul/12

Davebryant - Solo O/S - Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - Jul/12

Dan0Me - AltLd - 27/Jun/12

beth_may - 2nd - 10/Jun/12 with Will Pope

A rather wet encounter
becoming-stranger - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/12 with Beth Mc

Joshthomas - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 09/Jun/12

shoulder still injured - something relaxing...
evhall - Solo rpt - 09/Jun/12

led p234
steveprice.exmouth - AltLd - 04/Jun/12 with David Coley

jasoncash - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/12 with Alex Pickup, Jimmy McSporran

went off route left, really enjoyed it!
muwasi - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with dave

Chris' first outdoor climbing experience, which he found difficult in trainers. Did it in 2 long pitches.
Katherine Ross - Lead rpt - 28/May/12 with Chris New, Charlie Beard

Boring! Climbed very slowly in trainers. Would make a nice solo warm up.
cbeard - 2nd O/S - 28/May/12 with Katherine Ross

Hidden - AltLd - 26/May/12

Probably didn't do the route properly (didn't see a lot of polish) but superb nonetheless. Had to downclimb to retrieve a nut and then climb back up the first pitch to get a cam. Let George do the crack pitch with the piton.
squicky - AltLd O/S - 23/May/12 with George

ross brinson - Lead - 22/May/12 with Tom Waldron

TDSvejstrup - Lead O/S - 16/May/12

A pleasure as always, skipped the third belay to save time, and faff.
Bobling - Lead - 13/May/12 with Ed


EdDee - 2nd - 13/May/12 with Bob

George Frisby - 2nd O/S - 05/May/12

jonlord - Lead O/S - May/12

stafford101 - 2nd rpt - 28/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/12

Still has some tricky bits
PaulWatson - AltLd rpt - 24/Apr/12 with Muny

Mayaculpa - AltLd - 15/Apr/12 with Stewart Webb

Richezzz - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - Apr/12

maresia - AltLd rpt - 28/Mar/12 with Phil Harris

Consolation after running away from Suspense and Daydream. Enjoyable as ever. Tagged on a cheeky extra pitch up the wall to the left of the final belay (last pitch of Nightcap?), very worthwhile.
Bobling - AltLd - 28/Mar/12 with James P

Poco Loco - Lead rpt - 28/Mar/12 with Robert

cdent - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/12

Pretty dam scary in the pitch black with two torches duct taped to my helmet. We are so hardcore Andy!
Stanners - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/12 with Andy G

Done at night with head torches which made an easy route pretty frightening
CreepingExcellence. - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Rob Stanfield

LouiseP - Lead rpt - 21/Mar/12 with Sav, Naomi

matsav - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/12

Climbed as three pitches, linking the middle two. Fun lead in the dark with a few route finding issues.
Ragingpossum - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/12 with Rob Wragge-morley

Me P1 & 3. Very nice route. Currently som loose rock big enough to hurt just above p1 belay.
mullermn - AltLd rpt - 03/Mar/12 with Kylie Richards

I lead pitches 2 and 4. Really nice route, enjoyed it much more than I remember the first time around! Managed to finish before it started to rain too much. Despite care to avoid it I knocked a rather large bit of rock off on pitch 4, lots of loose bits up there still.
Kylie - AltLd rpt - 03/Mar/12 with mullermn

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/12

sweenyt - AltLd rpt - 28/Feb/12 with UBMC

surf1nal-kern0w - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/12

Jon Pilling - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12 with Cat Beaver

first climb on avon gorge with alan. polished in places but great climb and sunny weather.
matty g - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/12

Matt Schwarz - Lead O/S - 25/Feb/12 with Pete north

Peter north - 2nd - 25/Feb/12 with Matt Schwarz

Lead all pitches, third pitch VERY polished. Others were fun
sam.sam.sam.ferguson - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/12 with Steph

Steph Roberts - 2nd O/S - 20/Feb/12 with Sam

mark schramm - 2nd rpt - 14/Feb/12 with Lyndsay

Led the 2nd pitch, seconded the others.
Lyndsay Superclimber - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/12 with Mark S

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/12

variation up the slab rather than the corner/chimney
Nick Russell - Solo O/S - 21/Jan/12

panda70 - Lead - 15/Jan/12 with Alastair Blanshard

wurzelinzummerset - AltLd - 14/Jan/12 with Chris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/12

riff156 - AltLd rpt - 07/Jan/12 with Morna

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2012

David Qualtrough - 2012

David Qualtrough - 2012

pasbury - 2012

abtibbs - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Jack Verber

gary.earl - Lead - 2012

Done this so many times I've lost count now. Excellent route for introducing complete novices to multi-pitching, and that's what I've been using it for.
Eagertom - Lead - 2012

Speed climbing day
katherinesydney - AltLd O/S - 10/Dec/11 with mike kann

DL: P1/P3 L : P2/P4
fragglerock - AltLd β - 10/Dec/11 with Laura

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Nov/11

Chad's first climb. Not polished at all! Gear was pretty sparse on the easy ground, but decent stuff near any move of difficulty.
Kemics - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11

Deano100 - AltLd O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Nick

Hidden - Lead - 01/Nov/11

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/11

pffft - Lead rpt - 23/Oct/11 with Jojo Mills

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

My annual polishing of this gem, not like it needs it! Finally did the face option on the third pitch which is certainly more enjoyable than the mirror smooth chimney.
Bobling - Lead - 16/Oct/11 with Jackie

Straight up chimney
stafford101 - AltLd rpt - 15/Oct/11

lead p2,3,4 in horrid damp weather. made some of the moves more interesting than i think theyd be when dry
Jenny Seaborne - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/11

lead P1. Heavy drizzle, which made an easy route seen distinctly dodgy in places. Nasty foot slip moment in the chimney on a wringing wet polished hold - yuk!
hms - AltLd O/S - 09/Oct/11 with Jenny

carl_123 - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11

Becky (accidentally!) ran P1&2 together, and I led P3 and P4. Fun!
Katherine Ross - AltLd rpt - 28/Sep/11 with Becky Hampshire

Becky H - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/11 with Katherine Ross

kev_george - AltLd β - 23/Sep/11 with Heather STephens

evhall - Solo O/S - 13/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Sep/11

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - Sep/11 with Carl

:) Wanted to do this ever since my brother first took me climbing on it. Was my first ever trad route. I am sorry 'Pablo' for giving you a heart attack when I got confused and thanks for the positve thoughts :)
Stanley - Solo rpt - 23/Aug/11

vickydavies - Lead - 14/Aug/11 with Alex Harper

Hidden - Lead rpt - 10/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Aug/11

Lead P1 & 3, Nick 2 & 4.
Deano100 - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/11 with Nick

hairy51 - AltLd β - 03/Aug/11 with Joe Andrews, Ben Axford

lead 2 and 4 good climbing on a blowy evening. first visit to AG.
stoneback - AltLd O/S - Aug/11 with Dean

needlefluff - Lead - Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 10/Jul/11

Prez - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Kevin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jul/11

Included an additional pitch at the end directly up the slab, probably severe. Interesting moves in the middle.
ernie27uk - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/11

Interesting route, a good variation of climbing styles as well as some good gear belays. Started pissing it down at the end of the second pitch so we were trying to be quick on the third one.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/11 with Jack Treble

petermurdoch - 2nd O/S - 23/Jun/11

Moving together
Clay C - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/11 with Harry K

Lead first two pitches together, Karen lead second two together, but she exited straight up instead of going right at the end O_o crazy karen. Was expectedly polished but enjoyable all the same.
Tom Brierley Gore - AltLd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Shijing Hu

karenhh - AltLd - 11/Jun/11 with Tom Brierley

Another awesome, sunny evening after work on a top route
Ander - Lead - 06/Jun/11 with Cairnsy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11

Hidden - Solo O/S - 03/Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/May/11

kyle - Solo - 27/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/May/11

Did with my Dad. I led all the pitches. really nice route
JamesRich - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Paul Rich

Abs - 2nd - 22/May/11 with David Martinez Majo, Greg Kemble

HarryB - Solo rpt - 21/May/11

Spent lots of time chasing a haul bag and running off route making the climb harder than necessary. Otherwise an excellent route (if your on it).
reashlin - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/May/11

Hidden - 2nd - 17/May/11

Dave Ing - Solo O/S - 09/May/11

Tarquin - 06/May/11 with Sarah

First multi pitch
DanMc - AltLd O/S - 06/May/11 with Ryan Watts

colinkeb - 2nd β - 06/May/11

Lead 2nd pitch - fun climb
BB1 - AltLd - 05/May/11 with P Ross

HarryB - Lead rpt - 03/May/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/May/11

Uberpussy - 2nd O/S - 01/May/11 with Neil Tucker

Hidden - 2nd O/S - May/11

Neil Tucker - Lead - May/11 with Robert Bronsdon, Richard Reynolds

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 30/Apr/11

lead all but 1st pitch. Good to see my wire has not been able to be removed, it is now a bomber back up for the peg at the top of the 3rd pitch.
Stanners - AltLd rpt - 25/Apr/11 with Bethia Manson, Martin Stanfield

Seconded with Lisa on twin ropes. Gof lead it well.
sofe13 - 2nd - 25/Apr/11 with Gof, Lisa

Led the first pitch and then shared taking out the gear with Beth. Favorite climb I think :)
Stanley - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Bethia Manson, Robster666

Lost a size 4 DMM rock on the first pitch - was too hot and sweaty to work it out! If any one snaffles it let me know! Awesome climb, enjoyed.
hairy51 - 2nd - 20/Apr/11 with Ben Axford

Climbed as a three alt- lead by Jamie and Dave, ran first two pitches into one, ran out of light topped out under cover of darkness. addition lost nut added to route. Nice climb great view bit polished at points.
Jonathan Storey - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/11 with JamieC, Dave

Hidden - Solo O/S - 19/Apr/11

Yeah i saw the nut just below the old piton near the top but i also failed on getting it out.
carlgodfrey - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11

Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/11 with Tom Adcock

lead all but last pitch,where martin performed his debut trad lead...and did well. A size 5 wire had to be left near the top for anyone to try and get out, spent ages to try and get it out and a lot of blood from my hands.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/11 with Sticky Gecko

Lead the last pitch, which was my first pitch of led trad
Stanley - 2nd O/S - 06/Apr/11 with Robster666

MagnusL - Lead rpt - 02/Apr/11 with Paddy

Jon_Warner - Apr/11 with Antony

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/11

SamStokes - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/11 with Ed Webb

webbe01 - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/11 with Sam Stokes

took Scott out for his 1st time climbing, led all pitches, ran the last 2 together
HarryB - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/11

Jonny Raines - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/11 with Felix

MagnusL - Lead rpt - 23/Mar/11 with Kieran, Andy

Linked the first two and last two pitches together with myself leading the first two pitches.
Rory Southworth - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/11 with SamuelHarris

Rory's first Trad and Multi-pitch lead, decided to run pitches together and did it in two.
SamuelHarris - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/11 with Rory Southworth

Neil D - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11 with Beth Hodgett

Betha. - 2nd O/S - 13/Mar/11 with Neil D

Henry lead the 1st pitch and I led the second Cloudy and windy
catty_9 - AltLd - 09/Mar/11 with Emily Logie, Henry Todd

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd β - 02/Mar/11

Kyle87 - AltLd O/S - Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Feb/11

Hidden - Solo rpt - 20/Feb/11

stafford101 - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/11

First 3 pitches of Morpheus, followed by last 2 pitches of Gronk.
Clay C - AltLd rpt - 18/Feb/11 with Louise

LouiseP - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/11 with Clay

Varied off the route a little bit, but still fine. Should repeat it.
sofe13 - AltLd O/S - 08/Feb/11 with Gof

hutchay - AltLd - Feb/11 with Dave Clover

First outdoor climb yey ! Done with 4 pitches under the watchful eye of Mr BD. Amazing weather for Jan with nice warm sunshine. Polish on 3rd pitch made for some nervous moments but final pitch was really enjoyable. Nice adventure.
Deano100 - 2nd - 30/Jan/11

First lead of 2011 - common!!
suffolknick - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/11 with Laura French

Lead Pitch 1/3/4 Thought pitch 3 (chimney) was very tough due to polish.
Fatclimber - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Andy Kuszyk

clams - Lead - Jan/11 with Snidds

Climbed highly polished crack with in-situ piton for pitch 3 which seems harder than HVD. Guidebook does says it can be avoided on the right though.
funkyvin1 - AltLd O/S - 2011

31770 - 2011

fletch73 - 2011

jameslam - 2011 with Charlie Thorneycroft

Richard Morgan - AltLd O/S - 21/Nov/10 with Toby Kluth

Very moist today!
maresia - Lead rpt - 13/Nov/10 with Andy

Loubylou - 2nd - 13/Nov/10 with Andy Ball, Ben Ashley, Mike Kann

Hidden - Lead rpt - 30/Oct/10

Lead 1st & 3rd pitches, with Wessex alternating on 2nd & 4th
robjdc - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Oct/10

TCarrick - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/10

tobydunford - Solo O/S - 04/Sep/10

First climb at Avon Gorge. Sunday morning traffic noise & wind made communication a bit difficult. Me P1 to ledge below and to right of flake.Lee P2 to next decent ledge by ivy. Me P3. Lots of polish on the chimney made ascent a bit awkward. After that felt a bit exposed in parts but fair protection and good holds to finally a good ledge and anchors. Lee led last pitch but in hindsight we could have scrambled to the trees.Remember to take money for ice cream van at top.Great view. Walked back down path.
Dassie - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/10 with Rock Dog

Stan011 - Lead - 28/Aug/10 with Mike Coles

A pleasant repeat on damp rock. Just good to get out on the (wet) rock! DL led all. Above the chimney on the 2nd pitch I led higher than the normal route for added interest.
fragglerock - Lead rpt - 23/Aug/10 with Tom Prince

ChrisBrooke - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Keeley Scholes

Climbed the front of the slab on pitch 3.
TDembrey - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/10 with Steve

Pete Rigby - Solo rpt - Aug/10

1st pitch; DL led, TP 2nd and JL 3rd. 2nd pitch; JL led, TP 2nd and DL 3rd. 3rd pitch; DL led, TP 2nd and JL 3rd. In retrospect I must have got a bit lost and actually led the 1st pitch of Gronk VS 4c.
fragglerock - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/10 with Tom Prince, Jon Lumb

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Jul/10

Overnight rain hadn't dried which made the first two pitches a little more interesting. The chimney was better with beta and the fourth pitch was awesome again - especially as it wasn't getting dark! Finally found the right top out too.
Bobling - Lead - 17/Jul/10 with Chris

Good effort from Gus, even seemed to enjoy himself a little. Shame we had to hurry through the last pitch due to fading light. Got the line a little wrong and went above the tree but still good. The stories about polish in the 3rd pitch are true like glass! Next time up the face route!
Bobling - Lead - 08/Jul/10 with Gus

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/10

very hot day. Excellent route. 3rd pitch nice open chimmey with more gear than you can shake a stick at. Great stance for final pitch. Cetainly good for folks new to multipitch trad (well done Jen)
kiwi boy - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/10 with jen

Jay C - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/10 with Sam W

samwillo - AltLd - 26/Jun/10 with Jay

Alasdair88 - 2nd rpt - 12/Jun/10 with Liz davies

lizzie789 - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Alasdair88

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jun/10

In boots and with rucksack
Clay C - AltLd rpt - 05/Jun/10 with Will A

first avon gorge climb, perfect conditions, quiet too once schoolchildern packed up.Me pitch 2 and 4. Peregrines in residence, awesome. Good sustained climb, polish in chimney 3rd pitch makes face choice best. Exposed excellent 4th pitch.
wilf - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/10 with nick f

Interesting variant . . . IE Lost trying to make life harder
ParkFace - AltLd O/S - Jun/10 with Jo Fromant

Got pissed off with revision... took 12 mins.
sweenyt - Solo - 30/May/10

Horribly polished in places but still a good climb. The chimney is horrible - the final easy break is superb.
dean cooke - AltLd O/S - 25/May/10 with Ian Timbrell

The polished Chimney is horrible but the traverse out is really nice
dean cooke - AltLd O/S - 25/May/10 with Ian Timbrell

Dan0Me - Lead - 19/May/10

paul1234 - Lead - 10/May/10 with mike

jack36987 - 2nd dog - 05/May/10 with Katherine Ross, Alex Saunders

luke13 - Lead O/S - May/10 with Meg

Climbed slab
TDembrey - 2nd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Rob

R_W_M - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Todd

sweenyt - Lead rpt - 23/Apr/10 with UBMC

mikeydee135 - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/10

gingergeorge - 20/Apr/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

Mike's first time climbing outdoors (good effort!) - my first climb on the sea walls. Really enjoyed this and only a couple of bit of polish which didn't spoil the experience. Great fun mini expedition Ice creams at the top in the sun - what more could you ask for?
Ant Mace - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Mike Mace

sbc - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Dunx

Number Two - Lead β - 17/Apr/10 with Melanie McDowell

Dunx - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/10 with Shell

Hidden - Lead rpt - 08/Apr/10

gingergeorge - Lead - 06/Apr/10

Meri's first multipitch climb. Memorable to say the least.
Poco Loco - Lead rpt - 28/Mar/10 with Meri

Pitch 3 was very polished, and the top 5m seemed to be unprotected.
SamuelHarris - AltLd O/S - 28/Mar/10 with Richard Green

ruaidh - Lead - 21/Mar/10 with Abigail

An almost perfect mini- expedition. Taking counsel of that wise old sage St Steve the Healer led the ever intrepid Jimb0 and I to venture, one unseasonably warm evening after work, onto this fine line, wending our way up sun warmed slabs and flakes, lightly polished cracks and corners, and abundantly furnished stances and belays. Deviously mixing descriptions in the Avon and South West Climbs guides resulted in five pitches, and so passing all the [though minor] difficulties to Jimb0. Street lights and headlights on the A40, and that perennially festive Clifton bridge, surprisingly atmospheric as dusk fell on our final moves. A scramble back through the woods in the dark, to the car, and picnic on crisps and Fanta.
Ander - AltLd - 16/Mar/10 with Jimb0

Great evening climb in warm rock. Last pitch in dark.
Jimb0 - AltLd O/S - 16/Mar/10 with Ander

bluesharper - Lead O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Rafal

Rafash - 2nd O/S - 14/Mar/10 with Szymon

Clay C - Lead rpt - 10/Mar/10 with George

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Tomar

First trad multipitch
Tomar - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/10

bit spicy for VD but good fun, with no problems. Matt did well, his first multipitch.
sweenyt - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/10 with Matt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/10

Clay C - 2nd O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Ross, Will A

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/10

Teaching Jim to lead, he dun well!
Shonkhor - AltLd O/S - 03/Jan/10 with Jim

sweenyt - AltLd rpt - 2010 with UBMC

Hidden - Solo O/S - 2010

kyle - Lead O/S - 2010

TR909 - Lead - 2010

big route!!!!quite polished on the third pitch.
crobinson - AltLd - 26/Oct/09 with Queequeg

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Oct/09

A bit more serious to solo than Sleepwalk because of the polish!
Chris Sansum - Solo rpt - 25/Oct/09

multi pitch 2xleads 1xsecond
jase burnard - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/09

mr.alex - AltLd O/S - 25/Oct/09

Chimney and Last pitch are great!
space monkey - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/09 with stvredmond

lead the lot. was an absolute marathon. the chimney got the heart racing a bit for a VD. shame its situated in the loudest venue ever
stvredmond - Lead - 10/Oct/09 with Richard Hill

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/09

Kat's 1st multipitch. Went off route (foolishly) on the 1st pitch and went direct up a thin crack past a peg
howlingbaboon - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/09 with Kat

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/09

First climb with Dora and her first route in the gorge. A gentle route to start.
Poco Loco - Lead rpt - 13/Sep/09 with Dora

Dunx - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/09 with Joe M

joeym - AltLd - 13/Sep/09 with duncan curry

Used to escape / gain access to a two session assault on Gronk. led 1 & 4, Going Right at p3 chimney is a more satisfying line , there is some polish on crucial areas.
PaulWatson - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/09 with Dan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/09

Emma-Louise Anderson - Lead β - 02/Aug/09 with Chris Bailey

webs_69 - 2nd O/S - Aug/09

First route for Lewis for two years
Colin Matheson - Lead - 25/Jul/09 with Lewis Matheson

Mr. K - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Joanna Kinghorn

Lead pitches 1 & 2, ran together as a single pitch including a traverse across to the belay at the top of the first. Pitch of Gronk to search for gear we left behind in the dark two weeks previous, traversed back onto route after failing to find any of it. :(
Andy White - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Anna Rothwell

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 14/Jul/09

Shona H - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/09 with Emma Anderson

Led the 2nd and 4th. Alan led 1st & 3rd. Took Vicky along for her 5th climbing experience - multipitch in the gorge.
andy dunn - Lead rpt - 04/Jul/09 with Alan

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/09

Nice route but enjoyment slightly over shadowed by the setting sun, topped out at 1030pm.
suffolknick - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/09 with Paul

Took coils and simul-climbed. Rained while on route.
Caspar - 2nd O/S - 28/Jun/09 with Mike Kann

Finished up Gronk
Mr. K - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Jon Hauser

Joking - 2nd RP - 18/Jun/09 with Kyle

I led 2nd pitch. Alan led pitch 1 and 3&4 rolled into 1
andy dunn - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/09 with Alan

Led top 2 pitches. Good fun!
Shonkhor - 03/Jun/09 with James

Lead to chimney, Billy lead second half. Quick climb after work.
Poco Loco - AltLd rpt - 03/Jun/09 with Billy

Trickier in the rain
tcn_2002 - AltLd - 26/May/09 with Hamish Legge

hlegge - AltLd - 26/May/09 with Thomas Codrington

1st Multi-pitch climb and it was great
kev_george - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09 with Sean King

Led pitches 1 and 3. Enjoyable climb. Worth the *.
rorschach - AltLd - 02/May/09 with Kev_George

First lead, took the Chimney pitch.
Braintax - Lead - May/09

Found it hard to follow the route as described in the logbook and ended up going pretty much straight up the face, much harder climbing, more like 5b/5c in places. Also missed the first belay spot and contiuned in my incorrect path and ended up at the 2nd belay spot but on the left, tricky getting up there from that side. i think i need to work on reading the guidebook....
Wrighty87 - AltLd O/S - 28/Apr/09 with Chris Mountford

Hidden - Solo O/S - 22/Apr/09

I led pitches 2 and 4. Andy Hills led 1 and 3. Great climb - would like to do again!
rorschach - AltLd β - 19/Apr/09 with Andy Hills

sdkoutdoor - Lead - 14/Apr/09 with That Guy!

Monk - Lead rpt - 12/Apr/09 with Luke Vincent

pffft - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/09 with Monkey

thomasadixon - Solo O/S - 08/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Mar/09

I lead pitches 1 and 3
Monk - AltLd O/S - 28/Feb/09 with PerrinT

Alternate leads with me leading pitches 1 and 3, and Alex leading pitches 2 and 4
catemuir - AltLd - 25/Feb/09 with Alex Pattison

Lead P2&4
aipattison - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/09 with Cate Muir

Some polish (of course - this is Avon) makes this harder than expected in places.
jmr - 2nd - 21/Feb/09 with Bob Howard

Shonkhor - 2nd O/S - 24/Jan/09 with Ben

Hidden - Solo - 07/Jan/09

Hidden - 2009

PerrinT - AltLd - 2009 with Monkey

climbingxcat - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/08

Instead of climbing up open chimney cut right onto slab and ascended. Much more graceful line. In-situe piton had sling placed on it :) (left in place).
bsavage - 2nd β - 03/Dec/08 with Giles Savage, George Malkin

suunto12 - AltLd O/S - 03/Dec/08 with Ben Savage, George Malkin

first pitch / 2 pitches.... approx 25 metres... then abbed off - routefinding pretty tricky....
richardadventurecafe - Lead - 22/Nov/08 with andrew mclaughlin

Great fun. Interesting move on third pitch by peg, easily protected though.
Poco Loco - Lead O/S - 17/Sep/08 with Gernot Riedel

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/08

sdkoutdoor - 2nd - 07/Aug/08 with That Guy!

Led first 3 pitches but Gem was unable to climb 3rd pitch due to the rain so abseiled off.
KarlH - Lead dnf - 03/Aug/08 with Gemma

Zygoticgema - 2nd dnf - 03/Aug/08 with KarlH

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/08

Nice climb, easy cruise up the Gorge, but a great route to take a beginner on. Great protection all the way up, a couple of good moves to make you think! did it in three pitches
diggers - Lead - 27/Jul/08 with CAS

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jul/08

Why you'd tackle the chimney with that inviting looking slab i do not know. Good route. As with other routes here the gearless bouldery start is prob. the physical crux
Jon_Warner - AltLd O/S - 15/Jul/08 with Mark Glaister

fishinwater - Lead - Jul/08 with RD

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/08

1st time climbing Morpheus, fantastic last pitch, exposure focused my concentration :-)
AngusB - 2nd rpt - 28/Jun/08 with RoryG

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Jun/08

lead pitch 1, 3 and 4
Protheroe - AltLd O/S - 17/Jun/08 with Eleri Dawson

Exciting climb! Led 2 & 3 as a single pitch, 3 is tough, shiney and deserves a higher grading, harder than an S I have led. It may be a space walk fit for the gods but us mortals have to concentrate on the rock!
PaulWatson - AltLd O/S - 10/Jun/08 with Dan

Francis Lister - Solo - 03/Jun/08

lizannday - 2nd - Jun/08 with Ewan Richards

Francis Lister - Solo β - 11/May/08 with george evans

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/May/08

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Emily K

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/May/08

Ewan Richards - Lead - May/08 with LizD

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/08

flytzen - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Rachelle Goff

bsavage - AltLd rpt - 23/Apr/08 with Felicia Line

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/08

Alistair Everett - Lead - 16/Apr/08 with Vasja Urbancic, Nic

Moving Together
Tempest - 2nd O/S - Apr/08 with mike kann

catemuir - 2nd - Apr/08 with Calum Smith

bsavage - Lead rpt - 05/Mar/08 with Piers

3rd and 4th pitches slippy as in the rain. Put them together, much rope drag!
CarolineH - Lead rpt - 20/Feb/08 with Simon and Ashley

Al Franks - Solo O/S - 16/Feb/08

Alasdair88 - Solo O/S - 16/Feb/08

both soloed to 1st ledge and started belaying from there. Done in two pitches with 2nd belay just above open chimney on ledge. Gully/open chimney before 2nd belay committing move but well protected by in site piton
bsavage - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/08 with Richard Craddock

rh5980 - AltLd O/S - 02/Feb/08 with John Edgell

catemuir - 2nd - Feb/08 with Joe Barrington, Pete Swan

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Jan/08

CarolineH - Lead - 23/Oct/07 with Dave

Off route slightly for the first pitch, ran the last 2 pitches together.
mullermn - Lead O/S - 21/Oct/07 with Kylie Richards

Led pitches 2 and 4
rrrock! - AltLd - 13/Oct/07

Hidden - 10/Oct/07

First taste of the Avon Gorge. Easy access; park and climb out of the boot (almost). Polish up to 4 metres made getting on the route a challenge, but once started the rest was nowhere near as bad. Pleasant progress up to the final belay position which is shared with the spacewalk traverse pitch 4 of Gronk; a tempting glimpse of things to come.
Humpty Dangler - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/07 with John Ricketts

Zoomer - 2nd - 01/Sep/07 with Julia Bloomer

Jules 210681 - Lead - 01/Sep/07 with glenn bloomer

Hidden - Lead - 17/Aug/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/07

markshobbrook - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/07 with gwilymstarks

Pretty clean onsight, long time ago
Cypher - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/07

No-chalk Nailer - AltLd O/S - Jul/07 with Humpty Dangler

Dan 85 - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/07 with Jonny

Circus - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/07 with Tim Wood

Gabe - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/07

CarolineH - 2nd - 09/Jun/07

Fantastic! my first trad experience. I led the last two pitches rolled into one as the climbng was easy and fun. I had the chance, and took it, to use my purple friend! Can't wait to repeat this climb later in the summer. The variation of pitch 3 will be my goal for later.
phosphojesus - AltLd O/S - 21/May/07 with Chris deverson

Hidden - Lead - 03/May/07

django - 2nd O/S - May/07 with Phil Watson

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/07

mlmatt - Lead dnf - 28/Apr/07 with chris jones

Byronius Maximus - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/07 with Paul Dewey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/07

Tamlyn - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/07 with Mark Somerfield

TiffTiff - AltLd - 25/Feb/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2007

Done a few times
mrtom - Lead O/S - 2007

Matt Tranter - 2007

Chris Sansum - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Guy Dereham

Justin T - AltLd O/S - 09/Dec/06 with Martin

Hidden - Lead - 05/Nov/06

mikej - Lead - 21/Oct/06 with Steve Stobart

Lovely long lead. Under instruction with help placing gear and some extra pro over a tricky steep bit. Dead Chuffed about this and a wicked enjoyable route!
nikinko - Lead β - 10/Oct/06 with Kathryn- Under instruction

Digger - Lead rpt - 24/Sep/06 with Cathy

andy mcc - Lead O/S - Sep/06 with Arifa Chakera

JonT - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/06 with Helen Edwards

Good climb to take new starters to the Gorge. Polished in places but thats part and parcel of Avon Gorge. Repeated climb on numerous occations as lead.
deanster01 - Lead - 20/Jul/06 with Laurie Neale

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 13/Jul/06

maresia - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/06 with Claire Tranter

Salsicha - 2nd O/S - 09/Jul/06

Hidden - Solo O/S - 02/Jul/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/06

Last pitch of Mobius HVS 4b
Sarah Bough - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/06 with Oliver Mentz

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Jun/06

Polished to buggery ! Apparently that's the way with the "easier" Avon Gorge climbs. Lot's of fun tho'. Neil and John were lead climbing in BOOTS as practice for some Alpine adventure... while little old me was tip-toeing up behind them in my best climbing shoes. First outdoor climb !!!!
philkerswell - 2nd O/S - 01/Jun/06 with Neil & John

A very hot day, a very hot climb.
Feeling bold - 2nd O/S - Jun/06 with Baz - rock god

tom.e - Solo rpt - 27/Apr/06

Hidden - Solo rpt - 10/Apr/06

My first Trad Multipitch.
Mull - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/06 with Matt

Nice to go from the bottom to the top on the lead, might be an easy route, but it's quite a long way!
rotsoscooper - Lead β - 08/Apr/06 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/06

First outdoor climb :)
camillaclifford - 2nd - Apr/06 with mrtom

Hidden - Solo - 25/Feb/06

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Jan/06

JamieAyres - AltLd rpt - 29/Jan/06 with Nick Ingram

Jethro - AltLd - Jan/06 with Tom Bouquet

mike kann - Solo β - 2006

Tamlyn - Lead O/S - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 2006

Great route. Done many times.
JamesColeman - Lead rpt - 2006 with Gordon, Jon, Alan, Andy

First Trad lead
chiverstom - Lead O/S - 29/Dec/05 with Pete Sharpe

Oh the joy, the unadulterated wonder! Apparently there has been a rock fall that has left the start of the third pitch a little sparse up the crack, bit hairy, but interesting crux. (Glad I didn't lead this bit.)
rotsoscooper - AltLd O/S - 11/Dec/05 with Karen

RedFox - Lead - 20/Nov/05 with Eddie Hung

Dripping wet polished monstrosity, but great fun. Not sure i'm used to this limestone lark yet.
Liam M - AltLd O/S - Oct/05 with Andy D

bpmclimb - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/05 with Clare

Hidden - Lead dog - 21/Aug/05

Hidden - Solo rpt - Jul/05

ron244 - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/05 with Peter Bird

Lead 1 and 2
Epic Ebdon - AltLd O/S - 15/May/05 with Molly Thompson

mol - AltLd - 15/May/05 with Tim Ebdon

Paz - AltLd rpt - 17/Apr/05 with DEJ

Love this climb!
MagnusL - Lead O/S - Apr/05 with My mate Rich

MagnusL - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/05 with My mate Mike

Somehow I got the polished pitches.
mwh - AltLd O/S - 09/Mar/05 with MagnusL

tom.e - Solo rpt - 2005

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2005

phsharpy - Solo O/S - 2005 with Bethan Davies

Jon Greengrass - AltLd - 2005 with Nick King

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2005

al99 - Lead O/S - Dec/04 with Jeremy king

Hidden - Solo rpt - Oct/04

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/04 with James Wright

KarlH - Lead O/S - 07/Mar/04 with Phil Lilley

Hidden - AltLd - 2004

Marq - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/03 with Isabel Kingsmill

JamieAyres - Lead rpt - Sep/03 with Nick Ingram

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 13/Aug/03

Stephen Shaw - AltLd - 19/Jul/03

Lizard - AltLd O/S - May/03 with Moose

Digger - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/03 with James Latham

Have led and soled many times. A note in my copy of "South West Climbs" said I first did it on 30/3/03. I think this was with some girl I met in the UCL student union.
Richard Hall - Solo - 30/Mar/03

Paz - Solo O/S - Oct/02

furry - Lead O/S - 05/May/02

Lev - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/02 with Tom Elliot, Emma Joy

IceMonkey1982 - 2002

tomkhoward - AltLd O/S - 2002 with Unknown

simul-climbed
simon kimber - 2002 with Nigel Kitney

Teaching
Jason Gotel - Lead - Jun/01 with Matt Gotel

steev - AltLd O/S - 2001 with Dave V

gimmer - 2001

Stone Muppet - 2001

Mickdenali - Lead O/S - 2001 with Mike Hammil

Hidden - 2000

CurlyStevo - Solo - 2000

Hidden - 2000

alan moore - 2000

My first climb since I broke my thumb in a cycling accident on 7th August 1998. There was a football sized loose block at the penultimate stance, which I dislodged and it fell down the route.
jim_randell - AltLd rpt - 01/Apr/99 with WW

cliffy - AltLd O/S - 1999 with Susanne Svendsen

Hidden - AltLd - 1999

Hidden - Lead - Apr/98

WRMusall - AltLd - 10/Dec/97 with Shaun and Gary

jim_randell - AltLd rpt - 04/Oct/97 with MB

mikej - Lead - 05/Apr/97 with R

colin milton - AltLd - 22/Sep/96 with eric milton

Ian Archer - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/96 with CDW

chris d williams - 09/Jun/96 with Ian Archer

Jim Brooke - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/96 with James Latham

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 1996

leland stamper - Lead rpt - Jul/95 with Tom Ball

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

Hidden - AltLd - 1995

jim_randell - Solo rpt - 23/Oct/94

jim_randell - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/94 with BOC

WRMusall - 2nd - 19/Mar/94 with Rick Stanley

Hidden - Lead - 1994

Jon Didymus - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/93 with Chris

Marti999 - Lead - 04/Apr/93

chris sm - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/93 with Martin Sime

Hidden - Lead - 1993

Tarquin - 1993

jim_randell - 2nd rpt - 17/Sep/92 with MS

jim_randell - Lead rpt - 14/Aug/92 with MS

I led the first pitch. Sean took a direct line for the final pitch - finishing unprotected up a steep wall.
jim_randell - AltLd rpt - 29/Jul/92 with SF

Mal Grey - Lead O/S - 1990

ChrisJD - Lead - 16/Oct/88

JamieAyres - AltLd - Jul/84 with Phil Windall

Richard Weller - Solo - 19/May/84

leland stamper - Solo O/S - 1982

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 31/Oct/81

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Jul/80

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/78

Brian Wilderspin - Lead - Feb/78 with Russel Houghton

Hidden - Solo β - 1977

Nigel Bond - AltLd - 02/Feb/74 with Dave

Andy Chubb - 1974 with Phil Jardine

alpboy57 - 1974 with Si Pryce

tapley - Lead - 28/Oct/73 with Alison Tapley

Bolt Phobia - 24/Jun/72

Steve Woollard - Lead - 1972

Gordon Stainforth - Lead - 07/Mar/71 with MIke Danford, Les Ainsworth

Hidden - AltLd - 1966

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Lee_Meaden, csumner28, Neil Watson, rocktigger, magicmartin, purpledistorsion, zoonalink, jaamez, gobbledigook, limbo90, cdpuk, OliNewman, tom bradley, hcaw, Philsy, morticiaskeeper, Malpractise, J.Atkins, teh_mark, Dassie, scarp, mutly, Chris Homewood (Swindon MC), Warren Earle

Voting
Total votes cast 250
hard HVD2 of 93
HVD1 of 93
easy HVD15 of 93
hard VD23 of 93
VD49 of 93
easy VD3 of 93
hard HD0 of 93
HD0 of 93
easy HD0 of 93
hard 4b0 of 82
4b0 of 82
easy 4b4 of 82
hard 4a8 of 82
4a52 of 82
easy 4a15 of 82
hard 3c2 of 82
3c1 of 82
easy 3c0 of 82
3 Stars3 of 75
2 Stars58 of 75
1 Star12 of 75
0 Stars2 of 75
Bag of .....0 of 75
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf