|57m, 2 pitches. Start below the middle of the wall and the large obvious cave. The route climbs the face till a ledge at the base of the cave. Traverse 3 meters right to a thinning in the bulge above the black scaring and the blackness itself(this point can be attain direct). Strenuously pull into the pocket line and follow past a pair of undercut pockets and a finger crack (passing where a block used to be) and pull onto easier holds on the right. Swing rightwards and move up a smooth grey wall on good finger holds to a finger break, making a rising traverse leftwards to the peg belay of Earl of Perth. Traverse 3m Left, Peg, and then just to the right of this, pull on positive but technical and hidden holds straight upwards to the obvious Jamming crack above. Stain to get through this to exit ledges and continue up for 5m or so to the rock anchor and tat.
Abseil from here.
Best climbed as a long single pitch but can be split in 2 at the midway belay. |
P R Littlejohn 27/Feb/1976
Photo: Oblivion, Suspension Bridge Butress, Avon Gorge © Will Goldsmith