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Smell the Glove* E1 5b

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Smell the Glove (Direct Finish) >>
[Desperately hanging on, 2 kb]35m. Start on the left side of the slab and climb boldly to a blast-shattered alcove. Climb up, veer rightwards as you near the corner, and traverse delicately right to join Rob's Crack where it bends right. Leave that route and climb direct to the top.
M Raine, M Hammill 06/Apr/2002

Photo: Desperately hanging on © John Wellbelove
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 107 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

thomb - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Matt

Steve27 - 2nd - 18/May/13 with Ian Handscomb

Maxim2023 - Lead O/S - May/13 with Kate Tarrant

kate tarrant - 2nd β - May/13

Hidden - TR rpt - 23/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/13

MartinN - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13

LukeyG - Lead - 19/Sep/12

Steve27 - Lead - 09/Sep/12 with Ewan Gilmour

bradfry - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Tom Shanti, Lawrence

kirsten - 2nd - 08/Sep/12 with Mick

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 08/Sep/12 with Kirsten, Mick

Tom Frost - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12

JezH - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Ellie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12

Hidden - TR - 12/Aug/12

The start is a little run out but a very good landing. Did the Direct Finish which is the top half of the E3
Dale - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with stu

tommytom - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12

riddle - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Mike Stephenson

mikeyjbs - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Roger Hamilton-Smith

Pete Rigby - Solo rpt - 15/Jul/12

mallardhealhook - 2nd - 15/Jul/12

Tough start with little gear. Was freezing though and cold hands did not help
Rick Ashton - 2nd O/S - 20/May/12 with Robert Drynda

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 12/May/12 with Will Wykes, Rob Horler

lukerathmell - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/12 with Rachel Bennett

lazzaw - TR rpt - 01/Apr/12 with Jason Wilber

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/12 with Alan

Slipped off near start at first cruxy bit. Got back on and finished.
wurzelinzummerset - 2nd dog - 26/Mar/12 with Brian

ape1980 - TR O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Jude, lazzaw

lazzaw - TR O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Jude, Andrew Porter

Hey Jude - TR - 24/Mar/12 with Andrew Porter, lazzaw

lukerathmell - TR - 24/Mar/12 with steve

Steve27 - TR - 24/Mar/12 with Luke Rathmell

pete1993 - 2nd O/S - 05/Nov/11 with Matt

just below the bombhole was very wet, so had to go right. brilliant route
mattorford - Lead - 05/Nov/11

Rob Hirst - TR O/S - 24/Oct/11 with Michelle Hordern

climbingchica - 2nd - 16/Oct/11

Led this this time, rather than backing off. I found that you can get to the shatterhole directly - rather than going right very tenuously you can reach a good hold up left from the lowest concretions, then smear and move up much more easily to the shatter hole. This must be original grade E1 5a I'm sure - it felt like 5a. It's still runout as hell so E1, and the top was a bit sketchy as the cracks are a bit muddy (and moist on this ascent)
mike kann - Lead β - 16/Oct/11 with Michelle Hordern

Bold start - but enough gear afterwards. Micks first E1 lead :)
davenev - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/11 with mick

Hidden - TR O/S - 03/Oct/11

robertcunningham86 - 2nd - 30/Aug/11

nice delicate bold start.the rest has some gear!bit fluttery starting the traverse,may have gone a bit high.thoroughly enjoyable
tomshanti - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Will

The climbing and the gear are both really tenuous, you never really feel safe or secure at any point. You just try to hold your nerve whilst teetering your way up the slab.
Quarryboy - Lead β - 19/Jun/11 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

Hardest E1 I've second so far.
Stanners - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook

first E1 lead! Difficult start but linked moves, fine cli,bing from there on.
Mr-Cowdrey - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Lorcan O'Brien

stuntsbyjon - Lead O/S - Jun/11

Andyh83 - TR O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Shunt

jamespreston01 - TR O/S - 16/Apr/11

Only E1 5b, but high in both grades. Lower slab seems to have gotten a little polished.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/11 with Clare

fingery start, top section difficult to protect
darren hudson - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with David Ford

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 07/Apr/11 with Shunt

kelliroberts3 - Lead O/S - Mar/11

nick hawkins - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/10

On reflection, 5b and maybe just E2.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 16/Aug/10 with Clare

Quality route. Delicate start and bold but positive traverse.
jezb1 - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 02/Aug/10

hardoreVdiffBen - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/10 with Remus

very slippery at the bottom - not much gear at all!
evhall - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/10 with jerzy

could really have done with a clean... but who want's beta eh?
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Adam, Big Gay Jordo

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/10

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/09 with James P

Start is very thin but good fun. Torrential rain halfway up meant dogging up the rest was the only way as you cant smear on mud in the rain...
jamespilgrim - 2nd dog - 26/Jul/09 with Mark

Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Clare & Garry

paul1234 - 2nd - 12/Jun/09 with luke

luke13 - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Dec

bobumf - 2nd O/S - 31/May/09 with Alan Howells

First E1 so really pleased even with a couple of slips. Great route!
sadlerbrett - TR dog - 21/May/09 with Chris

cas smerdon - 2nd - 20/May/09 with mark j and trevor

Wasn't sure about this so backed off the lead pretty early. I shouldn't have worried, it's pretty straightforward if thought provoking and run out, the hardest climbing is the 10 metres up to the gear i retreated from.
Bart Shaw - 2nd rpt - 04/May/09 with Mike

Traverse from the corner to Rob's Crack is absolutely filthy making the delicate moves much harder. Needs a good clean!
lemon - 01/Mar/09 with Martin Davies

Good climb, committing traverse. Recommend cleaning it first, there was a layer of fine soil on the foot holds which made it much harder for the leader. Good route!
Martin Davies - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Ed Lemon

SteWatkins - Lead - Mar/09

A must for the Spinal Tap fan looking for perspective, (too much f*cking perspective...). But wow, intense. Moves up to the blast hole at 6 - 7m are unprotected, I managed to get a micro-wire into a tiny crack but didn't trust it. A real trial of your slab technique; get it wrong and you'll get 3m up, only to slide straight back down again; get the body shape right, find the footholds and hey presto, it works. I couldn't quite believe it when I made the blast hole for a much needed rest. The remainder of the route never felt in doubt, the thin traverse worked first time; hello again to Rob's Crack for 5m then the direct finish. This one can never be played. Look, still got the tagger on it...
Humpty Dangler - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/08 with Alan Howells

Sam Pictor - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/08 with Nathan

timharrison - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Matt Perks

Nice - good pro but quite run out between placements
James Moyle - Lead O/S - 08/May/08 with D. Murphy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/08

ian d f - Lead - 2008

Did direct finish at E1 ish.
chris sm - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/07 with Ian Butterworth

The Pylon King - 2nd rpt - 07/Oct/07 with Brian

I don't think there's a case for upgrading this - solid E1 IMO
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 07/Oct/07 with Mark, Clare

Ybot Htulk - Lead - Sep/07 with Rem

homerisgod - Lead - 29/Aug/07 with jeremy wade

hard start, then OK
kevinknights - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with John Hat

Jason Gotel - Lead - Aug/07 with Mike Alderton

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/Feb/07

John_Hat - Lead O/S - 2007 with Various

gringoloco - 2nd - 2007 with Colin Charles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06

The Mountain Goat - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/06 with Dom Sellers

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/06 with Jon Miles

upontop - Lead O/S - Sep/06 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/06

Not very comforting pro.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 31/May/06 with Clare

KRB - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/06 with Chris & Martin

mike kann - 2nd - 2006 with Rob Scheicl

Mark Salter - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Chris Shorrock

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/04

JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/04 with Nick Ingram

Paz - Lead O/S - 15/May/04 with SA LC, JM

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/04

tom.e - Lead O/S - 2004

i think this is a E2
Peter Swift - TR dog - 2004

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/03 with Pete Clarke

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 74
hard E20 of 26
E20 of 26
easy E24 of 26
hard E17 of 26
E115 of 26
easy E10 of 26
hard HVS0 of 26
HVS0 of 26
easy HVS0 of 26
hard 5c0 of 24
5c0 of 24
easy 5c0 of 24
hard 5b0 of 24
5b23 of 24
easy 5b1 of 24
hard 5a0 of 24
5a0 of 24
easy 5a0 of 24
3 Stars0 of 24
2 Stars5 of 24
1 Star18 of 24
0 Stars1 of 24
Bag of .....0 of 24
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 107 (0.9%)
Lead57 of 107 (53.3%)
Followed33 of 107 (30.8%)
Toproped15 of 107 (14.0%)
Unknown1 of 107 (0.9%)

'Climbed'24 of 107 (22.4%)
clean O/S62 of 107 (57.9%)
clean β3 of 107 (2.8%)
clean rpt14 of 107 (13.1%)
dogged4 of 107 (3.7%)