Smell the Glove* E1 5b
[Desperately hanging on, 2 kb]35m. Start on the left side of the slab and climb boldly to a blast-shattered alcove. Climb up, veer rightwards as you near the corner, and traverse delicately right to join Rob's Crack where it bends right. Leave that route and climb direct to the top.
M Raine, M Hammill 06/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Photo: Desperately hanging on © John Wellbelove
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This climb is in 221 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead RP - 27/Sep/15

kelliroberts3 - 2nd - 19/Aug/15 with Peter Rigby

Pete Rigby - Lead rpt - 19/Aug/15 with Kelli Roberts

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Jul/15

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jul/15

Slipped off the start and hit the ground first time. Got it second attempt, there's just enough gear.
Hexman - Lead G/U - 30/Jun/15 with Elaine Smithson

Started slipping before the alcove
Mayaculpa - 2nd - 27/Jun/15 with Michael H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/15

Felix Ottey - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/15

lukerathmell - Lead rpt - 16/Jun/15 with emma holland, Carl Stubbs

carl_123 - 2nd O/S - 16/Jun/15

Wevcore - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/15 with Rich

Luxulyan - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/15 with Kev Brown

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/15 with Kirsty Kerr

Paul Baller - Lead O/S - 30/May/15 with matt stevens

Couldn't commit to the big move up to the slot so backed off. Need to come back when feeling taller.
LovelyMrTom - Lead dnf - 28/May/15 with Emma Mines

wow, first proper E1! boom! Yes! really nice climb on a slab. lots of solid hand holds, not much gear.
lakeyross - Lead O/S - 26/May/15

miriamclaire - 2nd O/S - 25/May/15 with hutchay

miriamclaire - Lead β - 25/May/15 with hutchay

hutchay - Lead O/S - 25/May/15 with Miriam Billig

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 21/May/15 with Max Coney

Bold start. Really fun route.
Legs - Lead O/S - 21/May/15 with Steve

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/15

Fun (bold) start. Started to rain at 3/4 height to make it more interesting for the 2nds.
cdpuk - Lead O/S - 10/May/15 with Alex Haines, John Hammond

Hidden - 2nd dog - 10/May/15

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/May/15

Bob Peters - Lead O/S - May/15

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 18/Apr/15

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Apr/15

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/Apr/15

climbEdclimb - Lead O/S - 09/Apr/15 with Cameron Ree

Fatclimber - TR - 08/Apr/15 with Self Belayed

Hidden - 2nd dog - 06/Apr/15

Matt Smith - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/15 with Zoe Taylor

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Feb/15

Hidden - 2nd dog - 01/Feb/15

Greasy start, ok after the blast hole. With Zach, Ollie and Simon
Adam Hill - Lead - 04/Jan/15 with Zach

Pete Rigby - Lead rpt - 2015 with Kelli Roberts

Slick - Lead - 26/Oct/14 with Kevin Vans-Colina, Isabel Evans

Egons Issy - 2nd - 26/Oct/14 with Richard Nicholson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/14

AlexRenshaw - Lead - 12/Oct/14 with Ted Lister

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/14

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/14

Technical, start is thin! Most enjoyable.
callans - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Katie Preston

Felt hard and thin at the start. Nice to scare myself a bit though.
katiep - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Callan

Scary from the ground with no pro for 6m
JulianB - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Bernhard Lozowski, Sebastian Fisher-Greene

just one more - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/14 with john smith

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead - 11/Sep/14

steve-grigg - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14 with David Maddison

maddy92 - 2nd O/S - 06/Sep/14 with steve-grigg

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/14

Hidden - TR O/S - 30/Aug/14

Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Amy Devereux

Hidden - TR - 23/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead - 19/Aug/14

Fjsinclair - 2nd - 04/Aug/14

Pintsize - 2nd - 22/Jun/14 with Will Benfold

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Sarah Woodrow

felixizzy - Lead rpt - 10/Jun/14 with Craig

Uncomfortably bold with non-existent / fiddly gear for most of the first half. Good though.
bonelessivar - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Alan

Hidden - 2nd - Jun/14

Sean lead, thought it looked too good to second so got him to strip the gear and went up after.
felixizzy - Lead β - 18/May/14 with Sean

BallsOfSteel - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Felix

tskelhon - 2nd - May/14 with Charlotte

clmacdonald - Lead - May/14 with tskelhon

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/14 with Kirsten

kirsten - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with Brian

BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 12/Apr/14 with Kevin Van Colina

Hidden - 2nd dog - 12/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Mar/14

Felt high in the grade, scary start (marginal tiny RP placement found)! Ended up on Rob's Crack near end...
Tristypants - Lead dnf - 17/Mar/14 with Bec Chalkley

Good 5b moves at start to blast hole, would be bold on lead.
The Ivanator - TR O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Toby, Rich

sheelba - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Mar/14

Rich God 3 - 2nd - 09/Mar/14 with The Ivanator

Harder than 4 steps I reckon (at the bottom) and bolder!
TDSvejstrup - Lead O/S - 05/Mar/14 with jamie roberts

Definatly felt hard for the grade, especially since my partner had to do it in slightly wet conditions.
zcsharp - 2nd - 05/Mar/14 with Danish

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Oct/13

Pete Randall - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Pete Neden

Lower section unprotected but big holds, above the recess the gear gets better, after the traverse right the route is basically done. Top is muddy at the moment mind.
Phoebus - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/13 with James Orde Powlett

Made the mistake of moving to the left before the alcove and was dragged down with loose rock. Lucky escape with few bruises.
zadurrani - Lead dnf - 14/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Aug/13

tricky moves quite sustained
Matthew Martin Wsm - TR - 25/Aug/13 with marc fenton

katemurphy_@hotmail - 2nd - 11/Aug/13

After toproping it 2 month before.
Echna - Lead rpt - 10/Aug/13 with Andy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13

Hidden - TR O/S - 10/Aug/13

MoWalker3 - 07/Aug/13 with Cormac

Chazwoz - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Peter Rigby

Bit of a scary start I guess...
pheotleyr - 2nd β - 24/Jul/13 with Iggy, Ben

Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/13 with Iggy, Peter

Nice bold start. Technical but never difficult. Sustained with good gear after the corner. Possibly hard for the grade given the start.
squicky - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/13 with Ben, Peter

petegunn - 2nd - 21/Jul/13 with Davina

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13

Felix Ottey - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

Really happy with myself for getting this. Lovely, challenging, consistent climbing
cameron_hall - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Tor Nockles

beckett45 - Lead - 28/Jun/13

katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 18/Jun/13 with tom thomb

the finish is not quite as vegetated/muddy as it looks from below.
thomb - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/13 with Kat

All about the bottom half! Bold and felt high in the grade. Great fun nice and techy, just how I like it!
brew_guru - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13 with shane dawson

grp - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13

Griff1990 - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Geoff Pyatt

Will go as a lead as soon as I'm more confident with my gear placements.
Echna - 2nd β - 04/Jun/13

1st E1 lead. Well pleased - nice technical, climbing with long run-outs!
AndyF - Lead RP - 04/Jun/13 with Gregor, Mike

markfromstoke - 03/Jun/13 with Steve S

Georgia H - 2nd - Jun/13

tcoombe1 - Lead - Jun/13

thomb - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Matt

Steve27 - 2nd - 18/May/13 with Ian Handscomb

Maxim2023 - Lead O/S - May/13 with Kate Tarrant

kate tarrant - 2nd β - May/13

Hidden - TR rpt - 23/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/13

MartinN - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead β - 2013

LukeyG - Lead - 19/Sep/12

Steve27 - Lead - 09/Sep/12 with Ewan Gilmour

bradfry - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Tom Shanti, Lawrence

kirsten - 2nd - 08/Sep/12 with Mick

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 08/Sep/12 with Kirsten, Mick

Tom Frost - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12

Hidden - TR - 12/Aug/12

The start is a little run out but a very good landing. Did the Direct Finish which is the top half of the E3
Dale - Lead O/S - Aug/12 with stu

tommytom - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12

riddle - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Mike Stephenson

mikeyjbs - 2nd O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Roger Hamilton-Smith

Pete Rigby - Solo rpt - 15/Jul/12

mallardhealhook - 2nd - 15/Jul/12

Tough start with little gear. Was freezing though and cold hands did not help
Rick Ashton - 2nd O/S - 20/May/12 with Robert Drynda

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 12/May/12 with Will Wykes, Rob Horler

lukerathmell - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/12 with Rachel Bennett

lazzaw - TR rpt - 01/Apr/12 with Jason Wilber

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/12 with Alan

Slipped off near start at first cruxy bit. Got back on and finished.
wurzelinzummerset - 2nd dog - 26/Mar/12 with Brian

ape1980 - TR O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Jude, lazzaw

lazzaw - TR O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Jude, Andrew Porter

Hey Jude - TR - 24/Mar/12 with Andrew Porter, lazzaw

lukerathmell - TR - 24/Mar/12 with steve

Steve27 - TR - 24/Mar/12 with Luke Rathmell

pete1993 - 2nd O/S - 05/Nov/11 with Matt

just below the bombhole was very wet, so had to go right. brilliant route
mattorford - Lead - 05/Nov/11

Rob Hirst - TR O/S - 24/Oct/11 with Michelle Hordern

climbingchica - 2nd - 16/Oct/11

Led this this time, rather than backing off. I found that you can get to the shatterhole directly - rather than going right very tenuously you can reach a good hold up left from the lowest concretions, then smear and move up much more easily to the shatter hole. This must be original grade E1 5a I'm sure - it felt like 5a. It's still runout as hell so E1, and the top was a bit sketchy as the cracks are a bit muddy (and moist on this ascent)
beardy mike - Lead β - 16/Oct/11 with Michelle Hordern

Bold start - but enough gear afterwards. Micks first E1 lead :)
davenev - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/11 with mick

Hidden - TR O/S - 03/Oct/11

robertcunningham86 - 2nd - 30/Aug/11

nice delicate bold start.the rest has some gear!bit fluttery starting the traverse,may have gone a bit high.thoroughly enjoyable
tomshanti - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Will

The climbing and the gear are both really tenuous, you never really feel safe or secure at any point. You just try to hold your nerve whilst teetering your way up the slab.
Quarryboy - Lead β - 19/Jun/11 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

Hardest E1 I've second so far.
Stanners - 2nd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11

stuntsbyjon - Lead O/S - Jun/11

Hidden - TR O/S - 26/Apr/11

jamespreston01 - TR O/S - 16/Apr/11

Only E1 5b, but high in both grades. Lower slab seems to have gotten a little polished.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/11 with Clare

fingery start, top section difficult to protect
darren hudson - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with David Ford

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 07/Apr/11 with Shunt

kelliroberts3 - Lead O/S - Mar/11

nick hawkins - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/10

On reflection, 5b and maybe just E2.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 16/Aug/10 with Clare

Quality route. Delicate start and bold but positive traverse.
jezb1 - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 02/Aug/10

hardoreVdiffBen - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/10 with Remus

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/10

could really have done with a clean... but who want's beta eh?
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/10 with Adam, Big Gay Jordo

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Jul/10

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/09 with James P

Start is very thin but good fun. Torrential rain halfway up meant dogging up the rest was the only way as you cant smear on mud in the rain...
jamespilgrim - 2nd dog - 26/Jul/09 with Mark

Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with Clare & Garry

paul1234 - 2nd - 12/Jun/09 with luke

luke13 - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/09 with Dec

bobumf - 2nd O/S - 31/May/09 with Alan Howells

First E1 so really pleased even with a couple of slips. Great route!
sadlerbrett - TR dog - 21/May/09 with Chris Horobin

cas smerdon - 2nd - 20/May/09 with mark j and trevor

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/May/09

Traverse from the corner to Rob's Crack is absolutely filthy making the delicate moves much harder. Needs a good clean!
lemon - 01/Mar/09 with Martin Davies

Good climb, committing traverse. Recommend cleaning it first, there was a layer of fine soil on the foot holds which made it much harder for the leader. Good route!
Martin Davies - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Ed Lemon

SteWatkins - Lead - Mar/09

A must for the Spinal Tap fan looking for perspective, (too much f*cking perspective...). But wow, intense. Moves up to the blast hole at 6 - 7m are unprotected, I managed to get a micro-wire into a tiny crack but didn't trust it. A real trial of your slab technique; get it wrong and you'll get 3m up, only to slide straight back down again; get the body shape right, find the footholds and hey presto, it works. I couldn't quite believe it when I made the blast hole for a much needed rest. The remainder of the route never felt in doubt, the thin traverse worked first time; hello again to Rob's Crack for 5m then the direct finish. This one can never be played. Look, still got the tagger on it...
Humpty Dangler - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/08 with Alan Howells

Sam Pictor - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/08 with Nathan

timharrison - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Matt Perks

Nice - good pro but quite run out between placements
James Moyle - Lead O/S - 08/May/08 with D. Murphy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/08

ian d f - Lead - 2008

Did direct finish at E1 ish.
chris sm - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/07 with Ian Butterworth

Urgles - 2nd rpt - 07/Oct/07 with Brian

I don't think there's a case for upgrading this - solid E1 IMO
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 07/Oct/07 with Mark, Clare

Ybot Htulk - Lead - Sep/07 with Rem

homerisgod - Lead - 29/Aug/07 with jeremy wade

hard start, then OK
kevinknights - 2nd O/S - 25/Aug/07 with John Hat

Jason Gotel - Lead - Aug/07 with Mike Alderton

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/Feb/07

John_Hat - Lead O/S - 2007 with Various

gringoloco - 2nd - 2007 with Colin Charles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06

The Mountain Goat - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/06 with Dom Sellers

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/06 with Jon Miles

upontop - Lead O/S - Sep/06 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/06

Not very comforting pro.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 31/May/06 with Clare

KRB - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/06 with Chris & Martin

beardy mike - 2nd - 2006 with Rob Scheicl

Mark Salter - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Chris Shorrock

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/04

JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/04 with Nick Ingram

Paz - Lead O/S - 15/May/04 with SA LC, JM

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/04

tom.e - Lead O/S - 2004

i think this is a E2
Peter Swift - TR dog - 2004

Hidden - Lead - 2004

MikeC59 - Lead - 15/Aug/03

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/03 with Pete Clarke

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
WillAndrew, ali.scott, jhobbs, Tom Harper, Neil Watson, Tom F Harding, freelancer_85

Total votes cast 141
hard E20 of 50
E20 of 50
easy E26 of 50
hard E116 of 50
E128 of 50
easy E10 of 50
hard HVS0 of 50
HVS0 of 50
easy HVS0 of 50
hard 5c0 of 48
5c2 of 48
easy 5c0 of 48
hard 5b1 of 48
5b44 of 48
easy 5b1 of 48
hard 5a0 of 48
5a0 of 48
easy 5a0 of 48
3 Stars0 of 43
2 Stars11 of 43
1 Star31 of 43
0 Stars1 of 43
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean G/U
Clean RP