The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
Rockfax Description
An excellent pitch from start to finish with good but spaced protection available. Begin up Rob's Crack and at 6m move right and then up to a concretion plate. Head up the slab above for around 15m (spaced protection) to a horizontal break and then move right and climb easier territory up cracks to finish. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb Rob's Crack for 6m, step right, and climb to a pancake. Continue to a horizontal break; then step right and climb directly to the top on good holds.
FA. I.Butterworth, N.Hillman, M.Raine, R.Nadin 13/Apr/2002.
Best slab climbs of the UK , Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Fairy cave hard stuff , Bold Tradprenticeship , Slab Dreams , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9 , Devon and surrounding counties 50 E2 and some E3 and a few E4 and an E5
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)