35m. Climb Rob's crack for 6m, step right, and climb to a pancake. Continue to a horizontal break; then step right and climb directly to the top on good holds.

I Butterworth, N Hillman, M Raine, R Nadin. 13/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20, Ultimate E2 ticklist.

petecallaghan 22/Nov TR rpt
Hidden 18/Oct 2nd O/S
Neil Rigiani 18/Oct 2nd O/S
with James Hill-Reid, Dave Coley
petecallaghan 18/Oct Lead O/S

What a fabulous climb. Only my second E2 lead, the first this year. It's delicate and sustained throughout, once it diverges from Robs Crack, with just enough protection.

Hidden 10/Oct Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 03/Oct TR
with Mike Rotraxion
Hidden 08/Aug 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul Lead dog
felixizzy 18/Jul Lead O/S

Great hangover cure. The gear just below the run out was bomber so no real worries.

with Craig
Hidden 05/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul 2nd O/S
dansimkin 04/Jul TR O/S
Hidden 23/Jun 2nd
Felix Ottey 21/Jun 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/Jun Lead O/S
Wevcore 14/Jun 2nd O/S
with Rich
Luxulyan 14/Jun Lead O/S
with Kev Brown
Hidden ?/Jun 2nd
Paul Baller 30/May Lead O/S
with matt stevens
Hugobristol 28/May Lead O/S

Great, sustained slab climbing.

with Riccy, Pippa
Hidden 28/May 2nd dog
Tom Seccombe 20/May Lead O/S
with Wayne
Bob Peters ?/May Lead O/S

First onsight e2. Chuffed

Hidden 18/Apr 2nd
Hidden 18/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 06/Apr Lead O/S

Freaked out a bit on this... small and sparse gear above the "pancake" (couldn't see the "good" gear by the pancake, maybe its shattered). Slightly friable on crux also. Definitely a thinker... E3 5c?

AlexRenshaw 12/Oct/14 Lead
with Ted Lister
Hidden 10/Oct/14 Lead
Larey 01/Oct/14 2nd dog
with Max Ayrton
Hidden 11/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/14 Lead
petegruf 07/Sep/14 2nd
with charles m
cem 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Peter Murphy
Paul Eckton 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with steve read
Hidden ?/Sep/14 TR
MoWalker3 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Cormac
thomb 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
markfromstoke 25/Jun/14 2nd
with Adrian, Ian
ian d f 25/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Adrian, Mark
bpmclimb 19/May/14 Lead rpt
nicknicely 19/May/14 2nd dog
with brian
Nevil 19/May/14 Lead
with Vince
Vincej 19/May/14 2nd
with Nevil
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Oddjob 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Rosie
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
NB Pixel 16/Mar/14 2nd O/S

Thin moves quite high above gear- do-able if short but technical.

with Tom
Tubs 16/Mar/14 Lead dnf

Jumped off downclimbing from the end of the runout before things got any worse. Not one for us midgets.

with Naomi
sheelba 15/Mar/14 2nd
TDSvejstrup 05/Mar/14 2nd O/S
zcsharp 05/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Danish
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Hidden 16/Nov/13 2nd
Hidden 12/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Dave Thompson 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Audry Morrison
Kevster 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Lizzie
Felix Ottey 18/Aug/13 Lead β

Fantastic route nearly fell from the crux which would have seen me take a huge fall but excellent none the less. 3*

simon1965 18/Aug/13 TR

Bit thinat the crux but overall easy climbing for 5c with a serious potential fall.

Phil Layton 13/Aug/13 TR O/S

Good to test out what I can do, but leading this route will require greater mental fitness.

Hidden 24/Jul/13 2nd
petegunn 21/Jul/13 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 21/Jul/13 2nd O/S
will_benfold 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Tom Palfreman
jon_ridley 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Owen W-G 01/Jun/13 Lead β

Abbed down it after Liam led Robs crack to check there was actually gear, turns out it is mostly pretty good too, but crux felt run out, thin and scary, anyone who thinks this is E1 is a joker!

with Liam
tolly_60 01/Jun/13 2nd β

Tough, fingery crux which was hard on the toes!

Maxim2023 ?/May/13 Lead O/S
with Kate Tarrant
kate tarrant ?/May/13 2nd β
bpmclimb 14/Apr/13 TR rpt
with Shunt
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/12 Lead O/S
lewiz 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
kirsten 15/Sep/12 2nd

up another grade notch, made a lot of fuss but did it in one go

LukeyG 03/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/12 2nd O/S
wilkinscl ?/Sep/12 Lead β
lukerathmell 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Rachel Bennett
arandall 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Wendy did rob's crack, and i did this instead :)

with Liz, Wendy Matthews
Wendy Watthews 23/Aug/12 TR O/S
Urgles 22/Aug/12 TR rpt
with Mr Shunt
bpmclimb 19/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Jobbo 28/Jul/12 2nd
Leon. D 28/Jul/12 2nd
with jobbo
tommytom 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
98%monkey 20/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Backed off, wasn't the day for it

with Jeff
riddle 15/Jul/12 2nd O/S
mikeyjbs 15/Jul/12 Lead
with Roger Hamilton-Smith
Hidden 31/May/12 TR O/S
Hidden 31/May/12 TR O/S
Dawlish 30/May/12 Lead β

previously seconded this

with pete
The Ivanator 28/May/12 2nd

Misread one move and had a slip, fine when I found a better hold. A good climb.

with Jez
jezb1 28/May/12 Lead

Went to far right at about one third height and ended up on another route, which I then fell off. Got back on correct line and carried on. Quite straight forwards of you go the correct way...

BALD EAGLE 12/May/12 2nd
with Will Wykes
nick hawkins 07/Apr/12 -
Steve27 07/Apr/12 TR
Bristoldave 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Dawlish
Dawlish 29/Mar/12 2nd O/S
sweenyt 26/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Tom M
benkelsey 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

fairly thin moves before massive break when its all over.. wouldn't want it to be much steeper. really good though

with Chris Kelsey
RossT 14/Aug/11 TR
with Reg
RossT 14/Aug/11 TR
with Reg
stuntsbyjon ?/Jul/11 Lead dog
Didymus 30/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Josh&Thomas
Urgles 16/Jun/11 TR rpt
with Mr Shunt
Ruth ND 07/Jun/11 2nd β
with Ev
Hidden 07/Jun/11 Lead O/S
riddle 04/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great route, hairy moments before the horizontal break.

with Yasmina
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd
Dale ?/May/11 Lead O/S

Very fun slab climbing. Gets E3 5c in book its not Easy E2 5c right grade. Thought Epic-dural was harder and scarier at E2 maybe that should be E3.

with dave
Hidden 26/Apr/11 TR O/S
jamespreston01 10/Apr/11 TR rpt
jamespreston01 10/Apr/11 TR O/S
onlyfoddington 29/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Kayan 29/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/11 Lead
Hidden 05/Mar/11 2nd dog
Pete Rigby ??/2011 Lead O/S
fletch73 ??/2011 -
bpmclimb 22/Oct/10 TR rpt

To get to the top for my slings.

with Helen S
Phil PBC ?/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
with henry castle
Hidden 28/Aug/10 2nd β
bpmclimb 16/Aug/10 Lead rpt

E2 seems about right.

with Clare
tommytuffa 21/Jul/10 Lead β
with jay, tomar
Tomar 21/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Watch that run out at midway.

with Tom
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
The Ivanator 29/Aug/09 2nd O/S

I'm not an E3 climber usually so I guess this must be easy for the grade, a couple of thinnish moves, but more like E1 5b I'd say.

with Sean
Perryman 29/Aug/09 Lead O/S
katherinesydney 19/Aug/09 2nd dog
with andy wylie, bobby gilbert
Bobby Gilbert 19/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Fairly easy. Thought it should be E1

gaz.marshall 14/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Luke
tobydunford 18/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Ben Smith
paul1234 12/Jun/09 2nd
with Dec
deklan 11/Jun/09 Lead
with mike + paul
eddy-on-the-rocks 28/May/09 Lead O/S
with Geoff
chris sm 10/May/09 Lead rpt
with Damien ?
joeurwin 03/May/09 2nd O/S

amazing climb. Lots of smearing and tricky, balancy moves.

with alex & Dan Bruniges
AlexD 03/May/09 Lead O/S
upontop 01/May/09 Lead O/S
with Julie
Neil Tucker ?/Sep/08 Lead
with Andras Pinter
Justin T 02/Aug/08 Lead β

Clean after abseil inspection. E2 5c?

with Wifey
Hidden 02/Aug/08 2nd O/S
AJM 16/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Good route. Interesting technical climbing in sometimes bold positions.

timharrison 13/Jul/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/May/08 2nd dog
Hidden 21/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 21/May/08 Lead O/S
chris sm 17/May/08 Lead rpt

No more than E1.

with Pippa Froggatt
Hidden ??/2008 Lead rpt
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
chris sm 11/Nov/07 2nd O/S

V. soft for E3.

with Ian Butterworth
kevinknights 25/Aug/07 2nd O/S


Hidden 06/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Ed Babs ?/Jun/07 Lead O/S
jon bradley ?/May/07 Lead O/S

Even though the thread has broken out, you can still get a runner in above the pancake

with Dave Card
John_Hat ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Various
Silum ??/2007 Lead
bpmclimb 03/Nov/06 Lead O/S

The little thread just above the "pancake" is no longer a thread - the thin connecting pillar broke off.

with Clare
The Mountain Goat 19/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Somerset swede basher 19/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Jon Miles
Hidden 08/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Lev 04/Feb/06 Lead O/S
with Claire Durant, Jo Stadden
beardy mike ??/2006 2nd O/S
with Rob Scheicl
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Mick Cooke
Hidden ??/2006 Lead
John Southworth ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
_m.cox_ ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Davis
KRB 02/Jan/05 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
cornishben ?/Jan/05 Lead O/S


Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Urgles ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Laura
Hidden 19/Jun/04 -
just one more 19/Jun/04 Lead
with Max B, Svenn G
JamieAyres 05/Jun/04 2nd O/S
Paz ?/May/04 Lead
with AS
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden 17/Nov/03 Lead O/S
MikeC59 15/Aug/03 TR
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
petecallaghan, acer2012, Hidden, Hidden, catty_9, Bernie L, Hidden, hutchay, Hidden, Hooo, Tom Harper, BicycleBradley, Hidden, Angrypenguin, BenFitzG, kenneM, wurzelinzummerset, Mikey1988, Dean177, Tom F Harding, kyle, Alan100, hfac, Hidden, stuntsbyjon, kayakingash, Ropeboy, James Moyle
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 34
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 47
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set