The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. H.Harris, O.Mullis 30/Sep/2002.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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MireaLauria | 16 Jul, 2022 |
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βeta: Very very crumbly, would not climb again. Super run out too | βeta? | |
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βeta: Very very crumbly, would not climb again. Super run out too |
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Jon Dixon | 27 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Won’t bother with this one again. Other descriptions say it all, but I only read them after! Fairly easy to scramble up, but protection hard to come by higher up. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Won’t bother with this one again. Other descriptions say it all, but I only read them after! Fairly easy to scramble up, but protection hard to come by higher up. |
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Fatclimber | 15 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: I have done this route multiple times, and I think it has degraded somehow. Couldn\'t find any meaningful gear after 1/3 height. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I have done this route multiple times, and I think it has degraded somehow. Couldn't find any meaningful gear after 1/3 height. |
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George Lunn | 17 Nov, 2019 |
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βeta: Possible ground fall from 20-25m. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Possible ground fall from 20-25m. |
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Mr Slippery | 28 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Not a good confidence builder if you're getting into trad - but perhaps useful as an example of mountain climbing. Lots of loose rock and difficult to trust. Gear placement also not great (because of loose rock). | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not a good confidence builder if you're getting into trad - but perhaps useful as an example of mountain climbing. Lots of loose rock and difficult to trust. Gear placement also not great (because of loose rock). |
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