The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
Rockfax Description
The protruding ridge is an exposed outing that is popular in both ascent and descent. It has a tongue-in-cheek Alpine grade of PD. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The obvious rocky ridge which juts back towards the quarry entrance, and which separates the East and West Ends. Moderate climbing, but care needed, especially in wet and/or windy weather.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tatarek | 18 Oct, 2020 |
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βeta: Up and down | βeta? | |
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βeta: Up and down |
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AslansFury | 13 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: climbed and down climbed with children (7 and 9). Quite exposed on top with severe drops on both sides. I would have felt more at ease to have the kids roped in. | βeta? | |
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βeta: climbed and down climbed with children (7 and 9). Quite exposed on top with severe drops on both sides. I would have felt more at ease to have the kids roped in. |
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Dunthemall | 20 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Graded for descent | βeta? | |
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βeta: Graded for descent |
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