38m. The obvious long clean strip above a quarryman's spike in the ground. Pad up the slab to a large tree belay. Sparse protection: possibly VS if you don't deviate from the direct line to place gear. NOTE: it's very easy to stray left onto The Socialist. Keep your blinkers on, climb direct, and keep an eye out for gear placements slightly right.

J Swift, A Heath 1994

Ticklists: Best slab climbs of the UK, South West Climbs for a Northerner, Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

jhobbs 22/Nov 2nd O/S
Win-yei 21/Nov Lead

Had to go a little too far left due to it being 3degrees and having numb toes

with Rob
Gavdee1 21/Nov Lead O/S
reece.robinson 21/Nov 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Oct 2nd
pimpy 25/Oct Lead
with Tom E
LovelyMrTom 25/Oct 2nd
ben.richards 20/Oct Lead rpt
with Elizabeth Stoughton
Hidden 18/Oct Lead O/S
petecallaghan 18/Oct Lead O/S

Warm-up for the day. Fun.

Hidden 18/Oct 2nd O/S
Mayaculpa 04/Oct 2nd
with John Roadnight
Hidden 04/Oct Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 03/Oct Lead rpt
with Tom FP
Mayaculpa 03/Oct 2nd
with Richard T
Hidden 03/Oct 2nd rpt
Mayaculpa 27/Sep Lead
with Kate
richie934 26/Sep Lead O/S

Properly run out in the upper section before a lifesaving thread a few meters from the top.

with Alan Ahmed
(A)-Alan 26/Sep 2nd O/S

Great effort rich :)

WillAndrew 19/Sep 2nd O/S
with Tom N
miriamclaire 13/Sep Lead rpt
Hartz 07/Sep Lead O/S
with twill
twill 07/Sep 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep 2nd
Hidden 06/Sep Lead
mjcostain 06/Sep Lead O/S


mjcostain 06/Sep 2nd β
Hidden 22/Aug Lead
Mayaculpa 22/Aug 2nd
with Karl, dbm
Hidden 22/Aug 2nd rpt
kelliroberts3 19/Aug Lead rpt
thomasmerry 18/Aug TR
meliasen 15/Aug 2nd O/S
D Berry 11/Aug Lead O/S
with Claire Berry
sadlerbrett 08/Aug 2nd O/S
with Chris Atkinson
SenzuBean 08/Aug Lead O/S

Took 2-3 side runners, as the route was very hard to protect. I got what I thought was a bomber tricam placement in a pocket, thought I better test it - tugged hard a few times, and on the 5th or so tug - the entire piece of rock the pocket was in exploded off! tl;dr - chossy, but okay.

with Morgan
Hidden 08/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug 2nd
shim ?/Aug 2nd
degibbs 20/Jul 2nd
with George Bridgewater
acer2012 20/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jul Lead O/S
hannesD 18/Jul 2nd O/S
with john
hairy51 07/Jul 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul 2nd O/S
gobbledigook 01/Jul Lead O/S

really enjoyable route, gear when you need it

Poco Loco 30/Jun 2nd rpt
with Dan Guy, Bald Eagle
BALD EAGLE 30/Jun 2nd
with Dan Guy, James Pomeroy
Hidden 30/Jun TR rpt
Hidden 27/Jun 2nd
Keelan McNulty 24/Jun Lead O/S
stalbot93 24/Jun 2nd O/S
Mayaculpa 21/Jun Lead
with Meline, Kate
Hidden 18/Jun 2nd
Hidden 14/Jun 2nd
Lizziemay 14/Jun 2nd O/S
with Dave
BALD EAGLE 14/Jun Lead
Fatclimber 13/Jun Lead rpt
with Kelwyn
Hidden 13/Jun 2nd
danieleaston 10/Jun Lead O/S
with Steve
Steve Bartle 10/Jun 2nd rpt
carl_123 04/Jun Lead rpt
Stanners 03/Jun Lead rpt

First outdoor climb with the whole crew

with Stretch Armstrong & Becky, Robbie Leishman
jhobbs 30/May Lead O/S

cracking route, managed to stay direct between gear placements to the left.

joeurwin 28/May 2nd rpt
with Dave
DaveX 28/May Lead O/S

First ever trad lead

with Joe
steve_gibbs 21/May Solo rpt
Legs 21/May Solo
BALD EAGLE 16/May Lead
with Pete Shone
Hidden 10/May 2nd O/S
Mayaculpa 09/May 2nd
with Alex
Hidden 09/May Lead RP
Legs 09/May 2nd O/S

Seems easy to wander off this line, but enjoyable non the same.

PatrickEnglish 09/May 2nd O/S
dinodinosaur 09/May 2nd O/S
Neil Rigiani 04/May 2nd O/S

Andy lead, including bits of The Socialist and The Tory. I seconded direct up Balch's Slide.

with Andy Sparrow
Bob Peters ?/May -
Ollie Wickham 30/Apr Solo O/S


Ollie Wickham 22/Apr Lead O/S
with Richard Mackie
Robin Woodward 21/Apr Lead O/S

Took as direct a line as I could avoiding the juggier bits to either side. definitely felt VS (harder than Rob's Crack), but I can imagine straying either left or right gives much easier options. Decent enough gear for the angle, but sometimes the over-warn cracks are so because people have tried and failed to find gear rather than it being a well used placement (either that or my gear was poor). In situ chain around the tree for rappel.

Snorfalorpagus 19/Apr Lead O/S
with Luke Vincent
Hidden 13/Apr 2nd
crater 13/Apr Lead O/S
with steve
klo1981 10/Apr 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/Apr 2nd O/S
Matthew Martin Wsm 08/Apr Solo rpt

lovely easy solo

with ian marshall
Fatclimber 08/Apr TR O/S
with Self Belayed
davidclare 07/Apr 2nd O/S
with Tris Vye
Hidden 07/Apr Lead
lazzaw 06/Apr TR O/S
with Mick, Jonathan Cook
dh7892 05/Apr Lead O/S

Nice route. Not sure if I stayed central enough for the VS tick but it certainly felt like I was avoiding holds and the gear was run out enough to make it interesting.

Felix Ottey 05/Apr 2nd rpt
Hidden 05/Apr 2nd O/S
Rob Morgan 22/Mar 2nd

Second by bounced over to the severe next door to remove some gear.

with Louis
Ali Mortazavi 21/Mar Lead O/S

Direct route.

with Rita
lazzaw 21/Mar TR rpt

A repeat of the 'no hands' challenge. 3 touches ad 2 burning calves

with Jason Wilber
Hidden 21/Mar 2nd
Neil Watson 07/Mar Lead O/S

Took the most direct route.

with Aussie Scott, Climber Kate
klo1981 07/Mar 2nd
rustyfishhook ?/Mar Lead O/S
Adam Hill 18/Feb Lead

Direct line. Zach shot up it again.

with Zach
David Staples 07/Feb Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Dec/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Dec/14 2nd O/S
hands solo 14/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Nov/14 2nd O/S
JamesRich 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
with Lewis
Hidden 28/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/14 2nd
Hidden 27/Oct/14 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 27/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/14 TR O/S
jayyaj 05/Oct/14 2nd
Mayaculpa 05/Oct/14 Lead
with Jason
Rob Morgan 05/Oct/14 Lead
Hidden 04/Oct/14 2nd rpt
Mayaculpa 04/Oct/14 TR
with Mel_P, Mike Rotraxion
Hidden 04/Oct/14 Lead rpt
Larey 01/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Max Ayrton
Prez 30/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Mayaculpa 26/Sep/14 TR
with Mike Rotraxion, Alan Thorne
Hidden 26/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 21/Sep/14 TR
with Kate, Mike Rotraxion
callans 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Large chunk of flake near the top came off in my hand. Rest of it very hollow-sounding. Caution advised!

katiep 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Callan
Hidden 18/Sep/14 Lead O/S
abtibbs 07/Sep/14 Lead dog

Had a bit of a slip first placement which held. In my defence it was my first slab for a while. I stuck to the left and found it easy with good gear.

zcsharp 07/Sep/14 2nd

In trainers

bpmclimb 02/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden 24/Aug/14 2nd O/S
91dave 24/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/Aug/14 Lead
Hidden 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Paul Eckton 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Amy Devereux
zcsharp 17/Aug/14 2nd
steve_gibbs 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 12/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead rpt
cdpuk 03/Aug/14 2nd rpt
RobScarisbrick 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Should be soloed

with cdpuk
91dave 03/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Hester Robertson, Kerry Mellor
cameron_hall 03/Aug/14 2nd rpt
with Pete Cawley
hoggy90 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Tom F Harding 27/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Steve Bartle 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
brew_guru 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Super direct!

with Miriam
Abs 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Went boldly straight up the slab; no gear for the first few metres and another run out patch halfway up (blank section with some interesting moves!). A good test of gear placement skills; and knowing when to give up trying for gear & push on!

Samuel Cox 09/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Abi
Hidden 06/Jul/14 2nd O/S
brices 06/Jul/14 Solo O/S
with Llinos
Wendy 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Ball
CRiddiford 06/Jul/14 Solo O/S
with Chris
Tom Harper 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Climbed it super direct for VS tick. Very spaced gear and polished in spots but a very nice enjoyable climb

Hidden 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
trwolfe13 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Pretty run-out. Only places a few bits of pro. Found it very smooth, though.

91dave 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
cameron_hall 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S

For fun (since I was seconding), I took the blankest part of the slab and avoided using larger holds as much as possible.

Pintsize 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Felix Ottey 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd
leland stamper 17/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/14 Lead
Tom Harper 16/Jun/14 Solo

Very polished in places

Hidden 15/Jun/14 Lead
catty_9 15/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Angrypenguin 15/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Cat
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt
shaunleonard 08/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Ian
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead rpt
kiwi boy 08/Jun/14 2nd rpt

Dave takes the dead centre of the slab. Great tri cam and ball nut placements

with sharron, Dave B
MontyH 05/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Brian
brian watson 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
felixizzy 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

I don't think any of my gear would of held. Maybe that's just me.

with Jack
Hidden ?/Jun/14 -
sjscammell ?/Jun/14 Lead

try to make it as hard and thin as possible ... easy escape to the right for better holds all the way up.

kenli ?/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
martin one 31/May/14 Lead rpt
with Adam s, Dave Potter
mikedevcole 26/May/14 Lead O/S
matthew_dunn224 26/May/14 2nd
darren hudson 26/May/14 Lead O/S

1st outdoor climb for Amber. She found it scary, but climbed it!

with amber meeks
Alessandro Tentori 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsten Donovan
kirsten 17/May/14 Lead
Hidden 15/May/14 Solo
Hidden 15/May/14 2nd rpt
davenev 13/May/14 2nd β
with David
drgrange 13/May/14 Lead O/S
with davenev
Hidden 12/May/14 Lead rpt
swhite 05/May/14 TR O/S

I belayed David up something approximating this route after I'd led The Socialist. Then I abseiled down and tried this face pretty direct. Most parts have quite a few small holds, but it looked like very few would take gear.

with David Chadwick
miriamclaire 03/May/14 Lead O/S
jon bradley 03/May/14 Lead rpt
with Huw Howells
BallsOfSteel 29/Apr/14 Solo O/S

weaved up a little bit, would agree a direct line would probably be a bit harder

Hidden 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Caroline 2010 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Nick Hopper
martin one 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Stew
Hidden 16/Apr/14 Lead
Hidden 16/Apr/14 2nd
becoming-stranger 16/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Klara
lazzaw 11/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Lovely and warm in the sun. Followed by a 'no hands' attempt on top-rope. Nearly made it!

with Jonathan Cook
J.Atkins 10/Apr/14 2nd rpt
the ant hill mob 30/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Easty14 30/Mar/14 Lead
georgeevans88 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Alex P
Patrick Clissold 21/Mar/14 Lead
with Will Laws
Hidden 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Felix Ottey 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt
Chris Homewood (Swindon MC) 15/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Petrina Brown
Hidden 14/Mar/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 14/Mar/14 Lead
howsthebeef 12/Mar/14 2nd β
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd rpt
stpauliblade 08/Mar/14 Lead
shim ?/Mar/14 Lead
BenRyle 16/Feb/14 Solo O/S
with Tom Coombe, Beckett
erkdaly12 ??/2014 2nd O/S
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Hidden 30/Nov/13 Solo
Hidden 30/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/13 Lead
richardsavill 07/Oct/13 Lead O/S
sarahrowlands 07/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 07/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Luke Davies 06/Oct/13 Lead
Hidden 06/Oct/13 Solo O/S
cdpuk 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

Speed climbed to race the falling sun up the wall. Requires a referee to stop you wondering on to adjacent routes!

with Alex Peka
Babika 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

pretty unsatisfying. Do you step left to place gear or continue without any? this sort of dilemma seems a bit artificial to me.

with Loz Durant
Hidden 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S
JulianB 05/Oct/13 2nd
kenneM 27/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Mike Dudley
spenser 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
SHONAJONES 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with spenser
Easty14 07/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 05/Sep/13 Lead
marsden.d.paul 02/Sep/13 2nd rpt
with Andrew Marsden
reece.robinson 31/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Phil Wallam
Hidden 31/Aug/13 Lead
dereke12000 29/Aug/13 2nd
with Rob
Matthew Martin Wsm 25/Aug/13 TR

lovely easy climb

with marc fenton
Gaz of Bath 25/Aug/13 Solo O/S
Tristypants 25/Aug/13 2nd

super-direct line felt really thin, defo VS

with Helen Eden
Trippinjester 24/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Jennie Fowler
katemurphy_@hotmail 23/Aug/13 Lead
Phil Layton 22/Aug/13 TR O/S

Climbed three times without stopping.

with Ms Grigri
Hidden 20/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 20/Aug/13 -
marsden.d.paul 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S
katemurphy_@hotmail 11/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 07/Aug/13 Lead
Hidden 07/Aug/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/13 2nd O/S
paul1234 01/Aug/13 Lead
with Saffers
Chazwoz 01/Aug/13 Solo O/S
seanprendiville 01/Aug/13 Lead
with Tessa
Stuart William 28/Jul/13 Solo rpt
goatboy76 25/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Scott Moffat, Imogen White, Jake Leach
sweenyt 22/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Matt
Adrian Daniels 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with John Parrott, Steve Webster
just one more 21/Jul/13 Lead
with josh b, katie b, Max B
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Kitesurfer.alex1990 17/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Stew nutter 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Nice HS with some gutsy moves. Plenty of protection if looked for.

with Neil gay
wilkinscl 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Neil Gay 14/Jul/13 2nd rpt
mick1jones 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Mike Guttridge
morpcat 14/Jul/13 2nd
colinkeb 08/Jul/13 Lead
with john presley
MoWalker3 03/Jul/13 -

Dusty and dirty from abseiling. better to walk off down alpine ridge

with Cormac
Dawlish 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Sasa, Tanya, June
Fjsinclair ?/Jul/13 2nd O/S
ali macphee 30/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/13 -
Louvet 29/Jun/13 -
with Tarquin
beckett45 28/Jun/13 Lead
beth_may 24/Jun/13 Lead
with William Brown
lazyhopkins 23/Jun/13 -
Hidden 20/Jun/13 Lead O/S
fishinwater 18/Jun/13 Lead
with Rob H
BruceW 08/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Might have done his before?

with Becca
Echna 04/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Andy
johnl 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Andy Dunford
Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd rpt
tolly_60 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Decent warm-up

Georgia H ?/Jun/13 Lead
tcoombe1 ?/Jun/13 Lead
ADAMSTUBS ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
jopayne1988 26/May/13 Lead O/S
TimPerkin 26/May/13 Lead
with Tom Perkin
Hidden 25/May/13 Lead
Hidden 25/May/13 2nd
carl_123 22/May/13 TR rpt
Stuart William 20/May/13 2nd rpt

Approach shoes.

with Ben F
thomb 18/May/13 -
with Matt
Cheese Monkey 17/May/13 Lead O/S
with Mike
Mayaculpa 17/May/13 2nd
with Ben
Caroline 2010 08/May/13 Lead dnf

Stepped left and topped out on the severe.

with Felix ottey
gjh 06/May/13 Lead O/S
Trippinjester 04/May/13 Lead O/S
with Jennie Fowler, Jamie Knight
Felix Ottey 04/May/13 2nd rpt
rustyfishhook 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/13 Lead
Jcomber 01/May/13 Lead
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Pete Rigby 27/Apr/13 Solo rpt
kelliroberts3 27/Apr/13 Solo
Luke Davies 24/Apr/13 Lead
Malpractise 23/Apr/13 2nd O/S
carl_123 23/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Chris Redding 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Stuart William 15/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Matt Ivory
Ian JL 14/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Apr/13 2nd
steve-grigg 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Apr/13 2nd
paulerussell 06/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Steve Grey
Neil Gay 06/Apr/13 2nd rpt
BenBird 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
petegunn 03/Apr/13 Lead
with Onk, Davina
Hidden 31/Mar/13 Lead rpt
goatboy76 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Duncan Backhurst, Jake Leach
shakeyjakey21 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with Rob
MartinN 03/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Mar/13 2nd rpt
homing-penguin 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with David
Hidden 28/Feb/13 Lead rpt
markfromstoke 24/Feb/13 -
with Norman
Norman_P_W 24/Feb/13 -
BBEENN 20/Feb/13 Lead
UnkArl 01/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Lisa, Rik, Debbie
Hidden 01/Jan/13 TR
Debs 01/Jan/13 2nd
with Karl
Nix33 ??/2013 -
David Staples ??/2013 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2013 2nd
Hidden ??/2013 -
ian d f 12/Dec/12 Lead rpt

Michael backed off the lead!

with Tom V, Michael P
pearson9596 12/Dec/12 2nd O/S
lazzaw 18/Nov/12 TR O/S
with Jonathan Cook
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Nov/12 Lead O/S
TomGudgeon 06/Oct/12 Lead O/S
sheelba 29/Sep/12 Lead
lewiz 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
kirsten 15/Sep/12 Lead

tried to stick to the centre but started to stray higher up.

with Mick
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Doughnut 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Tom F Harding 15/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead
alastairbegley 08/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Jackson
robertharris7 07/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with wayne clark
BBEENN 04/Sep/12 Lead O/S
James26 04/Sep/12 2nd
LukeyG 03/Sep/12 Lead
Hidden 03/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Kylie 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Easier than I remember it being first time around. Difficult to know how far you can wander before being off-route. Someone was climbing on the VS to the right at the same time and a lot of loose rock was coming down!

mullermn 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Monkey
Monk 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

I didn't use any side runners, meaning the first half of the route was reasonably bold. There is gear to be had (smallest micros, nuts and a cam), but it is spaced and none of it is particularly great. I just reasoned that the fall would be quite soft so poor gear might hold. Nice climbing though. Never particularly hard, but enjoyable.

Hidden 26/Aug/12 Solo rpt
pffft 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Lizzie Randall 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Wendy
Wendy Watthews 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Liz
theocelano 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Ben
ben.richards 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
timstyles 22/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Grade depends on how direct the route is climbed. VS in the centre with limited gear or S with side runners.

with Mayur Patel, Jon Bradley
klo1981 20/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
jamespilgrim 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S

NO gear for 10m if you stay on the centre of the slab, gear after that is fine.

with Mark
sonic46 12/Aug/12 Lead
wurzelinzummerset 11/Aug/12 2nd
with Ally, Rob
Bobling 11/Aug/12 2nd

If you stick to the strict direct it feels more challenging.

with Alan, Ali
Urgles 03/Aug/12 Solo rpt
alidixon ?/Aug/12 -

led, easy!

Felix Ottey 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Straight forward! Grade seems generous maybe only severe.

Mr Winkleberry 26/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Matt Stacey
paul_j_burgess 22/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Good gear. Great belay at the top. Well done the BMC for the belay and the access rights.

wurzelinzummerset 21/Jul/12 2nd
with Lee
Big Lee 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Staying direct definitely felt like VS as little gear without deviation.

with Alan
JamieTown 19/Jul/12 Lead O/S

How the hell does this climb have a star?

Pete Rigby 15/Jul/12 Solo rpt
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead
Hidden 05/Jul/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/Jun/12 Lead
Martyn Trev 20/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jun/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 04/Jun/12 2nd β
Hidden 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
riddle 02/Jun/12 2nd O/S
adam 24 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Marti999 31/May/12 Lead O/S
with Debbie
Hidden 27/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/May/12 2nd
ClimbskiTim 23/May/12 Lead β

Good climb with which to finish evening off... Made mistake of going right just before midway and ran out of gear. Downclimbed before traversing left and regaining better protection. Good one for overcoming 'mind games' and why it gets and deserves * rating. One pitch.

with Bryony R
mullermn 12/May/12 Lead O/S

Gear very thin on the lower half, and the moves are very friction-y. Not technically hard, but nervy for the grade, I thought.

Kylie 12/May/12 2nd O/S

Not very much gear on it at all, nice moves though.

SharonC1604 12/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
Hey Jude 15/Apr/12 TR rpt
with Jason Wilber
wurzelinzummerset 15/Apr/12 2nd
with Mick
lukerathmell 15/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Rachel Bennett
Hidden 15/Apr/12 2nd
CraigMcAteer 31/Mar/12 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 28/Mar/12 Lead
with Andy
Samuel P 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Bath Dave
Katherine Ross 24/Mar/12 2nd O/S

A nice route, though with some worryingly hollow sounding bits near the top!

with Simon, Tom Mansfield
lazzaw 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hey Jude 11/Mar/12 2nd O/S
ape1980 11/Mar/12 2nd rpt
with Jude, lazzaw
McKEuan 06/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Bold and run out, with slightly rubbish gear! great fun

with Tadms
Steve J T 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
J.Atkins 21/Jan/12 2nd rpt
j miller ??/2012 -
Deano100 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Brilliant climb. First HS lead. Conditions not perfect but still very enjoyable, one to come back to in the summer.

with Nick
Hidden 26/Nov/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/11 TR rpt
Nick1812P 06/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Jem
pete1993 05/Nov/11 Lead
stoneback ?/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Dean
Rob Hirst 24/Oct/11 2nd O/S
climbingchica 24/Oct/11 Lead
luke_judd 16/Oct/11 Lead
with Sarah Smith
BBEENN 16/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Stephanie R 14/Oct/11 Lead

A lovely route. Great line and lots of protection

with Simon Tranter
Hidden 03/Oct/11 Lead
Hidden 03/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Oliver Hopper 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/11 2nd rpt
kirky_p 09/Sep/11 Lead
David Pye 02/Sep/11 2nd

Really good. Gear available if you look carefully.

Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead
riddle 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd
will909 22/Aug/11 Lead β
bullybones 15/Aug/11 Lead
with Linda F
Chris Redding 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Darren Oram
Hidden 07/Aug/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 03/Aug/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 03/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Dopey_172 02/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Another nice climb at FCQ, very impressed.

with Adam
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/11 2nd
Hidden 04/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/11 2nd rpt
stuntsbyjon 27/Jun/11 Lead O/S
kiwi boy 26/Jun/11 2nd rpt

Great climb. Joe on a roll second ever lead.

with joe
bonoid 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
john159 22/Jun/11 -

Led with Mark Dolan seconding.

Quarryboy 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Bit of a shit route I thought although I enjoyed the experience of climbing it.

Stanners 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S

bit of a harsh comment jack, it wasn't that bad, Don't think its worth a star though.

Urgles 19/Jun/11 2nd rpt

direct line - VS 4b, easily worth it's star, would be worth 2 if it wasn't so escapable

with Jack and Rob
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead dnf
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/11 Lead O/S
mikeydee135 07/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Mai Wong
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jun/11 2nd O/S
catemuir 04/Jun/11 Lead
Sam..Oliver 04/Jun/11 Lead
Will Gordon ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
kiwi boy 29/May/11 Lead β

An utter delight to lead. Surprising ammout of gear. Watch out for the bee nest/hive just as you top out on the right. Deep hole lots of angry bees trying to get home only to be blocked by an increasing coil of rope while bring greg up. needless to say once moved away they got on doing bee stuff

with Greg K
bradholmes 28/May/11 TR
Hidden 28/May/11 TR O/S
Rowan Mitchell 15/May/11 Lead O/S

A very gentle slab; you can almost walk up the first third of the climb

Christopher Jones 15/May/11 2nd
James Moyle 11/May/11 2nd rpt

A good climb to use as a reference grade!

with Richard Burton
carl_123 05/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/May/11 2nd
Hidden 03/May/11 2nd
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead
Hidden 30/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/11 Lead
Norman_P_W 26/Apr/11 2nd
with Bob M
Uberpussy 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Nice climb, very run out at start and protection not great anywhere but its probably VS climb

blum 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Tom lead I seconded.

with Tom Starks
blum 10/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Tom lead I seconded

with Tom Starks
joeurwin 09/Apr/11 2nd rpt
with Neil Gay
Neil Gay 09/Apr/11 Lead O/S
john159 07/Apr/11 Lead

First lead for a while. Superb day.

cas smerdon 06/Apr/11 2nd
with Dave Cooper
Hidden 29/Mar/11 Solo O/S
bpmclimb 27/Mar/11 Solo rpt
bpmclimb 27/Mar/11 TR rpt

Taking a very direct line, to assess the grade if you don't deviate to place gear. Probably VS.

with Shunt
onlyfoddington 25/Mar/11 Lead RP
john159 14/Mar/11 2nd


J.Atkins 13/Mar/11 2nd O/S
TomOsterwold 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Fist Runner is a fair distance ahead, make sure to check where you place protection as some of the rock is loose

tomjh 07/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/11 2nd
kelliroberts3 ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S
31770 ??/2011 -
TomBaker ??/2011 -
djromberg ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Jonathan Emett 25/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with karen, jimbo
Hidden 25/Oct/10 Lead
Hidden 22/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Oct/10 Lead O/S
gilbert 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

A bit run out in the early stages. A big hollow sounding patch of rock just up and left from the bit that has recently fallen off. Fair at the grade if you stick somewhere near the middle

with Gary Hayes RAFMA
Hidden 16/Oct/10 -
Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/10 -
arandall 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Isaac Whitcombe
The Ivanator 19/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Escapable and almost instantly forgettable, not sure this is worth a star.

with Rich
Rich God 3 19/Sep/10 Lead
crossdressingrodney 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with jon
fatbuoybazza 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Jonny M 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/10 2nd
davenev 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S

A nice simple climb - makes you smile

with Tess, luke
Mr Tickle 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with davenev
John Foster 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Geoff
stvredmond 30/Aug/10 2nd

not very inspiring, its falling apart and pro is very slim

Helnorris 30/Aug/10 2nd
Bobling 30/Aug/10 Lead

Hmmm, strangely unfullfilling.

with Helen, sredmond
jenniferanncleaver 21/Aug/10 2nd
wilf 15/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with nick f
Didymus 13/Aug/10 Solo O/S

Nice solo at end of day.

Sam..Oliver 11/Aug/10 2nd
stpauliblade 11/Aug/10 Lead
Urgles 08/Aug/10 Solo rpt
Paul Robertson 08/Aug/10 Solo rpt

Several times up and down, with various top-roping kids.

onlyfoddington 01/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Nick F Smith 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Debbie Bowers
Hidden 24/Jul/10 Lead
dale1968 23/Jul/10 2nd O/S


with angus
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Anna Yorke ??/2010 TR
Hidden 22/Aug/09 2nd
Tom_Harding 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Gordy
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Matt02003 ?/Aug/09 Lead
olliegray96 20/Jul/09 2nd
with dad,reece & ryan
tobydunford 27/Jun/09 Solo O/S
Poco Loco 31/May/09 Lead O/S

Fun and interesting climb. Big relief on reaching the first gear placements at 10m height!

with James Gray
just one more 31/May/09 Lead
with katie b
petegunn 28/May/09 2nd
with Davina
Hidden 28/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/09 Lead O/S
space monkey 25/May/09 2nd O/S
with bridgyboy
Richard Morgan 25/May/09 Lead O/S

Nice route - first HS lead. A big chunk has recently fallen off at 3/4 height on the right hand side but this hasn't affected the climbing.

andy dunn 10/May/09 2nd O/S

followed alan up in my trainers

with Alan
Pieface 10/May/09 2nd
with markmac
markmac 09/May/09 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this route

Hidden 01/May/09 Lead β
cas smerdon 22/Apr/09 2nd
with trevor pictor
Hidden 19/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Quirina 19/Apr/09 2nd O/S
benkelsey 14/Apr/09 Lead
SC 13/Apr/09 2nd rpt

Have lead before. Nice enough route, bit run out at bottom.

colin milton 13/Apr/09 Lead
with chris dew
gringoloco 13/Apr/09 AltLd
with colin milton
jon bradley 20/Mar/09 Solo
Martin Davies 01/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with Jen Oliver, Ed Lemon
lemon 01/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Martin Davies
Tom F Harding ??/2009 2nd β
Ollie Wickham 19/Dec/08 Lead O/S

Hit in the face by falling rock! Good route though.

with Luke Moran
alexisg 09/Nov/08 TR O/S
Andyleslie 08/Nov/08 TR RP

My first ever outdoor climb!

with Bruce Blagdon
Hidden 22/Oct/08 Lead O/S
John Lisle 17/Oct/08 -
with CC
just one more 11/Oct/08 Lead
with katie b
Hidden 21/Sep/08 2nd O/S
CosmosKey 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Rick & Frank
SC 25/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/08 2nd O/S
Rose Williams 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with dan p
Rose Williams 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with dan p
rastanderwick 17/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Chockstone
SteWatkins ?/Aug/08 -
joeurwin 13/Jul/08 2nd
with alex
AlexD 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S

just a steep walk

Jon_Warner 07/Jul/08 2nd O/S

Pretty good.

Hidden 19/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/08 Lead β
Hidden 08/Jun/08 2nd β
sammy94 07/Jun/08 2nd
with dad,reece and charlotte
bazzag 07/Jun/08 Lead

A fun climb.The kids loved it!

with reece, Charlotte,Sam,Ollie and Ryan
Hidden 27/Apr/08 Lead O/S
srees2108 16/Feb/08 Lead dnf

Had a go but got lost with little protection. After underware change was hauled up with help from above.

with Maya
wildbill ?/Feb/08 TR
with Dartmoor Outdoor Person, Faith Cook
richardadventurecafe 26/Jan/08 2nd
with Steve Reynalds
MarkRyder 26/Jan/08 Lead O/S
with Lee
richardadventurecafe 26/Jan/08 Lead
with Steve Reynalds
Rose Williams ??/2008 Lead O/S
with dan p
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
mol 16/Dec/07 AltLd
with Jesse
Jesse Dufton 16/Dec/07 AltLd
cas smerdon 03/Nov/07 2nd
with john wheeler
wheelo 03/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with cas
igneouscarl 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Oct/07 2nd O/S
maresia 27/Sep/07 Lead rpt
Urgles 18/Sep/07 Solo

Excellent fun

Somerset swede basher 17/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Sarah Stirling
Hidden 17/Sep/07 2nd O/S
Richard Fox 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Kevin VC
Hidden 15/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/07 2nd
dcomeau 08/Sep/07 Lead rpt

Very little at the bottom but after 10 meters there's a bomber placement on each side.

with Vicky Swain
ashleylist ?/Sep/07 Lead β
with Tamsin Collins
ashleylist ?/Sep/07 Lead β
with Tamsin Collins
Sam Pictor ?/Sep/07 2nd O/S

Simple and quick climb, easy to locate, wasn't really exciting or challenging!

with Dad
dcomeau 30/Aug/07 Solo O/S
kevinknights 25/Aug/07 Lead rpt
Paul Robertson 11/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Hannah Redmond
guy xavier percival 09/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with none
Hidden 30/Jul/07 Lead O/S
freelancer_85 30/Jul/07 2nd rpt
with Raphael
Merlin 22/Jul/07 Lead O/S
homerisgod 18/Jul/07 Lead
with jeremy wade
simonw1 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Ginger Pete
leonjones 26/Jun/07 TR
with Shunting
Paul Robertson 17/Jun/07 Lead rpt
with Daniel Robertson
Dan B 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Bev
Matt Tranter 26/May/07 -
kevinknights 21/Apr/07 2nd rpt
with John, Dan
Sarah Bough 18/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Henry Olver, Andrew Hawkins
jonny5 17/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Alix Blockley
Matty 14/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Lead before but seconded Maddie up as the day's first climb.

MaddieT 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Matt
littledave 09/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Ian Parkhouse
kevinknights 07/Apr/07 2nd O/S


TiffTiff 05/Apr/07 Lead rpt
with Tom
TiffTiff 24/Feb/07 Lead O/S
CharlieC 17/Feb/07 2nd O/S
with Jez
Hidden 17/Feb/07 Lead
freelancer_85 15/Feb/07 Lead rpt

Quite polished. Can't claim the onsight, as I slid back down the first seven foot :-( Run out at the start with more pro towards the top.

with Megan
John_Hat ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Various
kyt341k ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
Zoomer 29/Oct/06 Lead
Jules 210681 29/Oct/06 2nd
Hidden 12/Oct/06 Lead rpt
The Mountain Goat 19/Sep/06 Lead O/S
Somerset swede basher 19/Sep/06 2nd O/S
with Jon Miles
Hidden 08/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 05/Sep/06 Solo O/S
KarlH 09/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Neil Williams
Matty 22/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Dory (David Sifford)
Hidden 16/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Phil Murray 15/Jul/06 Lead O/S
with Caroline Barrington
Hidden 04/Jul/06 Lead rpt
Fat Tim 15/Jun/06 Lead O/S
just one more 09/Jun/06 Lead
with rich h, Max B
Hidden 03/Jun/06 Lead
Hidden 03/Jun/06 2nd
Bux ?/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Rupert Bassadone
mattjam ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with sammy d
bpmclimb 31/May/06 2nd rpt
with Clare
adamscottthomas 26/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Ben Clench
bob3141 26/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Jon Martin
Sarah Bough 26/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with James Wasiak
Hidden 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 22/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Clare
Paul Robertson 14/Apr/06 Solo O/S

Solo with hanging rope.

Hidden 19/Mar/06 2nd rpt
JamieAyres 19/Mar/06 Lead rpt
maresia 11/Feb/06 2nd O/S
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Nov/05 2nd
Epic Ebdon 12/Nov/05 Lead O/S
with Richard Gill, Jo Burke
r-gilly 12/Nov/05 2nd O/S
with Tim Ebdon + Jo Burke
Hidden 03/Sep/05 Lead rpt
Jen79 ?/Sep/05 2nd
with Matt Litchfield
John Southworth ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
Hidden 29/Aug/05 2nd rpt
Mark Salter 10/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Shorrock
upontop ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Chris
APAPAP 01/May/05 -
gripped01 ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Dan Graves
Hidden 20/Mar/05 2nd
Hidden 17/Feb/05 2nd
cornishben ?/Jan/05 Lead
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
James Moyle 10/Sep/04 Lead O/S
chris sm ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Jun/04 Lead
daza 13/Jun/04 Lead
with Ed
JamieAyres 05/Jun/04 Lead O/S
tom.e ??/2004 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Paz ?/Jul/02 2nd
with SN
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Paul Baller, petecallaghan, Hidden, jing, George Frisby, Snorfalorpagus, Hidden, Hidden, Steve nevers, Jonathan Storey, J.Atkins, Ropeboy, kiwi boy, Hidden, petellis
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 107
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 98
Votes cast 104
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set