Back to Basics* VD
[Penguin on Back To Basics, Fairy Cave Quarry, 2 kb]35m. The groove in the right arête of the Conning Tower buttress. Very good value despite a rather loose finish.
R Connaly 1993

Photo: Penguin on Back To Basics, Fairy Cave Quarry © homing-penguin
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This climb is in 227 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Very easy for a VD. Pleasant mod scramble with a short diff section at the crack. Slightly loose top.
callans - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/14 with Katie Preston

Nice enough scramble
katiep - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/14 with Callan

Jonathan's 1st multi-pitch lead (well, if you count belaying 5m below the top as two pitches!)
lazzaw - 2nd rpt - 05/Oct/14 with Jonathan Cook

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/Oct/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/Oct/14

First Trad climb with Zach, great fun.
Adam Hill - Lead - 27/Sep/14

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/14

Essentially first trad climb!
AndThenIWasFlying - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/14 with Andy M

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/Sep/14

IanElgy - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/14 with Chris Bonner

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Sep/14

91dave - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Alex Rigby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14

What a great route! As soon as I stood at the bottom of this I knew I had to climb it, the rock is immaculate (where it matters) and the line is so natural it really doesn't feel like you're in a quarry at all. Starts easily with a scrambly run-out section then steepens to a grooved arete, the crux coming at a corner with a deep crack in the right wall, obvious from below. Some lovely moves here lead to a lessening of the angle and some loose rock. I belayed here to keep sight to my second and avoid dislodging rocks with the rope. Jyoti went straight past me to lead the last 5m.
Oujmik - Lead O/S - Sep/14 with Jyoti

good "buddleia" belay at the top!!
crater - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/14 with steve

Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/14 with Amy Devereux

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/14

Lead first pitch to before block stack, brought up Fin & Ian. Set up accompanied abseil down Balch's slide in the dark. All good practice...
dereke12000 - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/14 with Fin, Ian

Lots of loose rock near top
FinlayE141 - TR O/S - 20/Aug/14 with Ian, Derek

cas smerdon - Lead - 18/Aug/14 with Nick Hudson

RiPomc - Lead - 17/Aug/14 with Julie Cooke

JCookie - 2nd - 17/Aug/14 with Richard Plater

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/14

felixizzy - Solo rpt - 07/Aug/14

great fun, clean rock until top, watch for loose stuff.
wilf - 2nd O/S - 06/Aug/14 with Tom, nick f

Hidden - Lead - 31/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead - 28/Jul/14

Seconding this helped me calm down a bit after nearly pulling off a lethal block off on Landslide Victory.
Quarryboy - 2nd - 28/Jul/14 with Martin Bazley, David Bradbrook

alibyrnie - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/14 with Alistair Logan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/14

A great route, really nice!
Ben Watts - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Louise Grimster

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/14

brices - Solo O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Llinos

CRiddiford - Solo O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Chris

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jun/14

pheotleyr - Solo O/S - 20/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/14

leland stamper - 2nd O/S - 17/Jun/14 with Deepstar

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jun/14

very pleasant
Stanners - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/14 with Deepstar

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jun/14

Nice lead sharron. Top of the route much cleaner than when climbed last. Less loose rock at the top of the block with the off width
kiwi boy - 2nd rpt - 08/Jun/14 with sharron, Dave B

martin one - 2nd rpt - 31/May/14 with Adam s, Dave Potter

mikedevcole - Lead O/S - 26/May/14

matthew_dunn224 - 2nd O/S - 26/May/14

davenev - 13/May/14 with David

drgrange - Lead - 13/May/14 with davenev

felixizzy - Solo rpt - 05/May/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/May/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 03/May/14

Awesome route for the grade. Safe and solid up til the last few blocks.
BallsOfSteel - Solo O/S - 03/May/14

shaunleonard - 2nd O/S - 03/May/14 with Ian

Adrian Daniels - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with John Parrott, Steve Webster

Caroline 2010 - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Nick Hopper

martin one - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with Stew

Hidden - Lead rpt - 17/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/14

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/14

lukerathmell - 2nd - 15/Apr/14 with emma holland

Brian Moseley - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14

davidclare - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Klara Marsikova

Klara - 2nd - 30/Mar/14

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Alex P

catty_9 - 2nd - 29/Mar/14 with Rebekah Hailes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/14

howsthebeef - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/14 with L. Mansell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 09/Mar/14

David Staples - Lead O/S - 15/Dec/13 with Tom Morgan

HairyBean - 2nd rpt - 30/Nov/13 with Natalie Burke

Loose at top. Not great fun
marsden.d.paul - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Jamie

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Oct/13

youbecame - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/13

Easty14 - Lead - 29/Sep/13

Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Audry Morrison

mh554 - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13

3RD lead!
SHONAJONES - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13

Tristypants - Solo O/S - 12/Sep/13

Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/13

Sarah lead most of it, I topped out.
Adam Perrett - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Sarah Perrett

kate tarrant - Lead O/S - Aug/13

Stuart William - Solo rpt - 28/Jul/13

Steve Woollard - Lead - 16/Jul/13 with Samantha Roach

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Jul/13

Neil Gay - 2nd rpt - 14/Jul/13 with Stew Nutter

swhite - Lead - 14/Jul/13 with David Chadwick

Simple vd. Look out for loose rock
Stew nutter - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Neil gay

Jen Mason - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jul/13

colinkeb - Lead - 08/Jul/13 with john presley

johnnyhobo - 2nd - 08/Jul/13 with Colin Baker

johnl - Solo rpt - 07/Jul/13

Rubbish!!! Loose!!! Easy!!!!
Felix Ottey - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13

mikeydee135 - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13

Tarquin - 29/Jun/13 with Louise

Louvet - 29/Jun/13 with Tarquin

p3tersen - Lead - 23/Jun/13

Nice climbing on the big crack, loose top but nothing to worry about
felixizzy - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/13

Dan0Me - Lead - 19/Jun/13 with Sophie C

BruceW - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13 with Becca

Nice.
johnl - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/13 with Andy Dunford

jopayne1988 - 2nd β - 26/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/13

Hidden - 2nd - 25/May/13

Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 17/May/13 with Mike

A crow or some such flapped out of the large crack, quite a surprise :-)
Mayaculpa - Lead - 17/May/13 with Ben

Neil Gay - Lead O/S - 04/May/13 with Judith Emerson, Ryan Murphy

Malpractise - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13 with Richard Goodbody

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Apr/13

robbiek - Lead - 17/Apr/13 with Caroline Web

Stuart William - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/13 with Matt Ivory

A good climb, though some care needed with the leaning tower of Pisa blocks at the top!
petegunn - 2nd - 08/Apr/13 with Davina

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/13

paulerussell - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13 with Steve Grey

homing-penguin - 2nd β - 10/Mar/13

becoming-stranger - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Beth Mc

HairyBean - Lead rpt - 03/Mar/13 with Natalie Burke

*girl - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Rick Simper

homing-penguin - Lead O/S - 02/Mar/13 with David

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/13

BBEENN - Lead - 20/Feb/13

again
riddle - 2nd O/S - 05/Jan/13 with Phil Lilley

plilley - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/13 with Roger

riddle - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/13 with Danny H

beth_may - Lead O/S - 2013 with Will Pope

becoming-stranger - 2nd - 2013 with Beth Mc

Nix33 - 2013

stoneback - Lead O/S - 11/Nov/12 with Dean

HairyBean - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/12

*girl - 2nd O/S - 20/Oct/12 with Rick Simper

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead - 29/Sep/12

Nice route, really easy until the corner starting three quarters of the way which makes it VD. Watch out for the loose block just above the corner.
MartinN - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12

Chris's first trad experience. Belayed just below the chossy top
lazzaw - Lead rpt - 09/Sep/12 with Jonathan Cook

arandall - Solo O/S - 23/Aug/12

The Pylon King - Solo - 12/Aug/12

jamiemcdonald - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Michelle Taylor

paulerussell - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Chris Poad

paul1234 - Lead - 20/Jul/12 with Saffers

Harri777 - Lead - 30/Jun/12 with Nik

Alor_lab - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/12 with Harri

Hidden - Lead - 20/Jun/12

Martyn Trev - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/12 with Tamsin Dyke

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12

Not much more than a hard scramble to start and finish, nice bridging climb in the middle. Agree lots of loose boulders that could do some serious damage. Although climb description gives 35m height, it's a long way to the belay anchor trees when you get to the top. My 50m ropes weren't enough and my partner had to scramble up the first section to give me a bit extra.
Limpet - Lead - 14/May/12

Hidden - Solo - 12/May/12

In approach shoes. Nice climb, though as per the rest of the quarry it is covered in piles of blocks ready to fall. Care required.
mullermn - 2nd O/S - 12/May/12 with Kylie Richards

Nice route, quite easy.
Kylie - Lead O/S - 12/May/12 with mullermn

lazzaw - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Jason Wilber, Jude

Hey Jude - TR O/S - 15/Apr/12 with lazzaw

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 19/Mar/12

Steve J T - 2nd - 10/Mar/12

ali macphee - Lead - 08/Feb/12 with lukerathmell

J.Atkins - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Nov/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Nov/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Nov/11

Hidden - Solo rpt - 09/Oct/11

will909 - 2nd - 11/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - Sep/11

Downclimbed.
bpmclimb - Solo rpt - 22/Aug/11

big loose rocks on the top but not too dangerous if you are careful.
Pete Scott - Solo O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Jimbo

bradholmes - Lead rpt - 23/Jul/11 with Chris Bonner

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 23/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jul/11

ollie080488 - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Luke Moran

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Jul/11

stpauliblade - Lead - 29/Jun/11

stuntsbyjon - 27/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - 26/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/11

bradholmes - 2nd - 11/Jun/11 with Chris Bonner

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11

catemuir - 2nd - 04/Jun/11 with Pete Swan

The Pylon King - Solo O/S - 04/Jun/11

Looks great from the bottom. Nice grooved arete. Loose rook all over the place. Care is needed in finding and placing gear unless you want a 100Kg block coming down on your belayer. Big blocks moving and falling. Split the 50 climb in two with greg taking the top 10m otherwise you cannot see your second (and actually not a bad stance)Not one for a repeat unless you have a death wish.
kiwi boy - Lead O/S - 29/May/11 with Greg K

Hidden - 2nd - 24/May/11

Hidden - Lead - 24/May/11

Hidden - Lead - 21/May/11

carl_123 - 2nd rpt - 12/May/11

lukerathmell - Lead O/S - 12/May/11 with Carl Stubbs

carl_123 - Lead O/S - 05/May/11

Worth a star, despite the loose finish.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/11 with Clare

Andyh83 - Solo O/S - 29/Mar/11

7ames - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

cas smerdon - 2nd - 22/Sep/10 with Nicola Yalland

Hidden - Lead - 22/Sep/10

jenniferanncleaver - Lead - 12/Aug/10

Sam..Oliver - Lead - 11/Aug/10

stpauliblade - Lead - 08/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/09

olliegray96 - 2nd - 20/Jul/09 with dad,reece & ryan

Hidden - Lead - 30/May/09

Dave Marshall - 2nd - 30/May/09 with Richard Keast

cas smerdon - Lead - 29/Apr/09 with mark joyce

cornish bird - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/09 with gareth

Hidden - Lead - 05/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd - 05/Apr/09

tp45597 - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with sam

Hidden - Solo O/S - 27/Jul/08

Sam Pictor - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/08 with Dad

sammy94 - 2nd - 07/Jun/08 with dad,reece and charlotte

Nice climb.Horrible at the top.
bazzag - Lead - 07/Jun/08 with reece, Charlotte,Sam,Ollie and Ryan

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

ian d f - Lead - 2008

Merlin - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/07

Dan B - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Bev

easy peasey arrete, seconded by hazel and Lizzie
ebunick - Lead O/S - 18/Feb/07

Quite a good little route, Solid, apart from the top fifteen feet.
RichS-Bristol - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 2007

Horrible tottering pile of shite!
Zoomer - Lead - 29/Oct/06 with Julia Bloomer

Jules 210681 - 2nd - 29/Oct/06 with glenn bloomer

Hidden - Solo O/S - 06/Jul/06

bob3141 - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/06 with Jon Martin

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - 2006

endless winter - AltLd β - Aug/05 with BenP

Epic Ebdon - Lead O/S - 01/May/05 with Nick Lambert

Hidden - Lead dog - 20/Mar/05

James Moyle - 2nd - 10/Sep/04

Slater - Lead - 2004 with Percy

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 69
hard HVD0 of 35
HVD0 of 35
easy HVD0 of 35
hard VD2 of 35
VD25 of 35
easy VD7 of 35
hard HD0 of 35
HD1 of 35
easy HD0 of 35
3 Stars0 of 34
2 Stars5 of 34
1 Star22 of 34
0 Stars5 of 34
Bag of .....2 of 34
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Style of ascent

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