15m. Start at the bottom of the right-rising crack. Go straight up on smears to the break. Keep going to a crack above and pull through the overlap. The tree is just above. Abseil descent.

I Butterworth, M Raine 27/Mar/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

steve_gibbs 04/Oct Lead rpt
George Frisby 04/Oct 2nd O/S
Gaz of Bath 27/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Jul Lead
Hidden 11/Jul Lead
Hidden 04/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Jul 2nd O/S
dansimkin 04/Jul TR O/S
Laurence20 30/Jun Lead O/S
with Ruaraidh Fairbairn
Mayaculpa 27/Jun 2nd
with Michael H
Hidden 27/Jun Lead O/S
stalbot93 25/Jun Lead O/S

More climbable than it looks

Keelan McNulty 25/Jun 2nd O/S
OllieF 23/Jun Lead O/S

Smeary padding fun! Bit of a run out up top to keep the blood flowing!

with Chris Rees
crater 23/Jun TR O/S
with steve
Hidden 23/Jun TR
Felix Ottey 21/Jun Lead
Fatclimber 14/Jun TR
Deako 14/Jun TR
the ant hill mob 06/Jun Lead O/S
Jessicacrump 06/Jun 2nd
carl_123 04/Jun TR rpt
catty_9 03/Jun TR O/S
with Sam Joseph, Henry Todd
Legs 28/May Lead rpt
with Sarah
ape1980 28/May TR O/S
with Craigzilla
Hidden 28/May 2nd
steve_gibbs 21/May Lead rpt
with Max Coney
Legs 21/May 2nd O/S

More gear than we expected and over all too soon. Might try the lead on the next visit though!

with Steve
Hidden 16/May Lead
Hidden 11/May Lead rpt
Hidden 11/May 2nd rpt
Mayaculpa 01/May TR
with Mike Rotraxion
Hidden 15/Apr TR O/S
Paul Baller 10/Apr Lead RP
climbEdclimb 09/Apr Lead O/S

E2? More of an E1 (soft) I feel, seemed like there were plenty of placements (although they were average)

with Cameron Ree
David Staples 07/Feb Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Dec/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Dec/14 2nd
Hidden 01/Nov/14 TR β
JamesRich 01/Nov/14 Lead β
with Lewis
Hidden 27/Oct/14 TR O/S
Matt Smith 27/Oct/14 Lead O/S

E1 5b if you have small gear/offsets. Got 6 bits of gear in and could have got more if I'd taken more quickdraws.

Hidden 04/Oct/14 TR O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 04/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Paul Eckton 23/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Amy Devereux
Hidden 23/Aug/14 TR
Hidden 19/Aug/14 Lead
zcsharp 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 17/Aug/14 2nd O/S
cdpuk 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

First E2. Smeartastic.

RobScarisbrick 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with cdpuk
hoggy90 01/Aug/14 Lead O/S
mph040272 28/Jul/14 TR O/S
with Nick Cunild
mph040272 26/Jul/14 TR O/S
with Tamsin Ross Browne
lem 13/Jul/14 TR O/S
Tom F Harding 12/Jul/14 2nd O/S
brices 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Llinos
will_benfold 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Tim Culwick
nath_casper 22/Jun/14 Lead RP

placed the gear on top rope then lead clean.

Tom Harper 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S

very slippy for feet and very poor gear for the top half of the route. felt very bold climbing all the way

pymn nice but dim 13/Jun/14 Lead O/S

First E2

felixizzy 10/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lots of opportunities for gear but not convinced by much of it.

with Craig
MontyH 05/Jun/14 TR O/S
with Brian
wurzelinzummerset 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Ric
bonelessivar 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

First e2, but let's face it, this is soft e1 at most.

with Alan
Hidden ?/Jun/14 2nd
Hidden 27/May/14 2nd
Hidden 26/May/14 TR rpt
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Alessandro Tentori 17/May/14 TR O/S
with Kirsten Donovan
kirsten 17/May/14 TR
Hidden ?/May/14 2nd O/S
Adrian Daniels 19/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with John Parrott, Steve Webster
BallsOfSteel 19/Apr/14 Lead β
Tomasz Kawka 19/Apr/14 TR
with Andy B.
Hidden 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
Easty14 16/Apr/14 TR
BicycleBradley 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

First E2

with Rich
RichyBOYY 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Trisha Murphy 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Larkins
J.Atkins 10/Apr/14 Lead O/S
joeurwin 29/Mar/14 TR O/S

3 times clean. Really no excuse not to lead it now!

with Sam Robinson
afrosam 29/Mar/14 TR O/S
morgan thomas ??/2014 -
Hidden 12/Oct/13 2nd
Dan0Me 09/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Sophie C
Pete Randall 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
with Seb, Pete Neden
Hidden 05/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Gabe Oliver 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Gear could warrant E1 but all a little dubious

Matt Amos 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Neil Gay 24/Aug/13 TR rpt
with Emily Gay, Al Gay
katemurphy_@hotmail 11/Aug/13 2nd
stoneback 09/Aug/13 TR O/S
with Alan
MoWalker3 07/Aug/13 -

only added the clean onsight bit to update the hardest route thingy. the 'blank' is always clean onsight.

with Cormac
The Ivanator 26/Jul/13 Lead RP

Seconded previously, toproped it very smoothly today, so went for the lead. On lead not so smooth, but made it, one nasty foot slide controlled by death grip crimping. My first E2 lead, but in reality this is surely E1 if you have a set of micros.

with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 26/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Ivan
Neil Gay 23/Jul/13 Lead
BenBird 23/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Dawlish 01/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Nice climbing on solid rock

with Sasa, Tanya, June
brew_guru 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
hutchay 29/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Great route, just got to focus on the moves rather than the lack of gear until you reach the break.

with Fliss, Libby Owen
jon_ridley 18/Jun/13 Lead O/S
shim ?/Jun/13 2nd
tcoombe1 ?/Jun/13 Lead
Marti999 31/May/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie
johnl 25/May/13 TR β

Top roped this to see if its crux was the same as the one I used on Talk to the Hand, It was!

with Adam Perrett
rustyfishhook 25/May/13 TR dog

one fall good route

minstrel nips,sean 25/May/13 2nd O/S
Trippinjester 25/May/13 TR O/S
Adam Perrett 25/May/13 TR O/S
wurzelinzummerset 23/May/13 TR O/S

A good climb. It would be nice to lead this... if there was a wire slot below the first break!

with Carl
carl_123 22/May/13 2nd O/S
gjh 06/May/13 Lead RP

Climbed after a single top-rope practice

Hidden 03/May/13 TR
Maxim2023 ?/May/13 Lead O/S
with Kate Tarrant
Hidden 23/Apr/13 Lead RP
kirsten 21/Apr/13 2nd
with Brian
bpmclimb 21/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Kirsten
Hidden 15/Apr/13 TR
rachchanter 07/Apr/13 TR O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Ian JL 06/Oct/12 TR
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/12 TR
Felix Ottey 09/Sep/12 TR
arandall 26/Aug/12 Lead RP

Top roped it last week, then lead it after remus on his gear

Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead rpt
arandall 23/Aug/12 TR O/S
with Liz, Wendy Matthews
Wendy Watthews 23/Aug/12 TR O/S
with Liz, arandall
Hidden 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Lizzie Randall 23/Aug/12 TR
with Wendy, Alex
Didymus 01/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Found it tricky in damp conditions

with Nick
riddle 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
adam 24 02/Jun/12 2nd β
The Ivanator 28/May/12 2nd O/S

Slab was pretty steady although wouldn't have fancied the lead on small spaced gear. Move over overlap felt like the crux.

with Jez
jezb1 28/May/12 Lead

Really good little route. Delicate climbing with enough gear.

will909 27/May/12 Lead rpt
BALD EAGLE 12/May/12 2nd
with Will Wykes, Rob Horler
bpmclimb 02/May/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
Rob Hirst 24/Oct/11 TR O/S
Hidden 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Gary S 08/Oct/11 2nd O/S
robertcunningham86 30/Aug/11 2nd O/S
will909 22/Aug/11 Lead RP
Hidden 28/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 28/Jun/11 2nd
Urgles 20/Jun/11 TR O/S

nice - worth a star

with Jack and Rob
Stanners 19/Jun/11 TR O/S

great route....trust your feet

nick hawkins 22/May/11 Lead RP
with steve
Steve27 22/May/11 TR
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
blum 10/Apr/11 TR β
with Tom Starks
Hidden 05/Mar/11 TR
bpmclimb 31/Oct/10 TR rpt

To check exact line

with Clare
davenev 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Awesome route - bit blank in sections but good gear in the middle

with luke
Mr Tickle 16/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with davenev
ian1234567 15/Oct/10 Solo O/S

e2 onsighted solo.

ian1234567 10/Oct/10 Solo
James Moyle 01/Sep/10 Lead

I had absolutely no recollection of doing this route before until I saw it in my logbook!

Hidden 15/Aug/10 Lead O/S
gaz.marshall 14/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Luke
DorsetGareth 30/May/09 2nd O/S

Quite soft for the grade, stripped plenty of gear.

with Richard Nadin
petegunn 28/May/09 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 28/May/09 2nd O/S
Mark Salter 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Apr/09 TR
Samuel P 05/Apr/09 TR
Hidden 05/Apr/09 TR O/S
MarkRyder 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with James P
Hidden 14/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Sam Pictor 30/May/08 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this climb, clean onsight and with planty of protection.... well enough to prevent any potential groundfalls. All i can say is that it beats revising!!

with Dad
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead O/S
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 12/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Sep/07 2nd
dcomeau 30/Aug/07 Solo O/S
kevinknights 25/Aug/07 2nd O/S


guy xavier percival 22/Aug/07 Solo β
with none
Hidden 13/Aug/07 TR
maybe_si 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with jamie
Hidden 30/Jul/07 2nd O/S
freelancer_85 30/Jul/07 Lead rpt
with Raphael
Hidden 29/Jul/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun/07 TR O/S
cas smerdon 18/Jun/07 TR
Matt Tranter 26/May/07 -
freelancer_85 06/May/07 Lead rpt
with Tom
thomasadixon 06/May/07 2nd O/S
freelancer_85 18/Apr/07 Lead β

My first E2!! Abseiled down over it from the tree after climbing Backing Up, and slid down the first 6 feet because I stupidly stopped moving, which on smears is never the best idea.

with Megan
climber_meg 18/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Josh
jimjimmyjimjim 18/Feb/07 Lead β
ebunick 18/Feb/07 2nd dog

damn foot slippage!! must buy new shoes.... must buy new shoes....

with Jim
Rebecca Buckenham 18/Feb/07 TR O/S
with Jim
Oddjob 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
JimR ??/2007 2nd
with AJM
John_Hat ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Various
Silum ??/2007 Lead

so slabby you can practically walk up it, or run. The gear is thin but there, easy route, soft for E2 but a lot of fun

bpmclimb 03/Nov/06 Lead O/S
with Clare
upontop ?/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 19/Mar/06 Lead O/S
JamieAyres 19/Mar/06 TR O/S
chris sm ??/2006 Lead O/S
endless winter ?/Aug/05 Lead β
with BenP
goi.ashmore 08/Jul/05 Lead O/S
with Alice Howe
KRB 16/Apr/05 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead RP
James Moyle 10/Sep/04 TR
Hidden 19/Jun/04 -
just one more 19/Jun/04 Lead
with Max B, Svenn G
tom.e ??/2004 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
with Edouard Vincent
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
petecallaghan, Hidden, Hidden, kenneM, Ropeboy, Owen W-G, ben.richards, squicky, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar
High E3
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High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
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Votes cast 42
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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