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Halfway to Kansas HS 4a

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[The Shadow Boy, 3 kb]48m, 2 pitches. P1 23m 4a. Follow the obvious crack in the left hand side of the slab to a small tree. Traverse a ledge rightwards and belay to trees. P2 25m 4a. Climb the left-slanting crack in the upper slab to a tree; then finish straight up. Belay trees a long way back: pull up a rope (if you haven't preplaced one).
R Thompson, J Hitchens (onsight) 06/Apr/2002

Ticklists: South West Climbs for a Northerner, Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Photo: The Shadow Boy © The Pylon King
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This climb is in 255 logbooks, and on 8 wishlists.

BALD EAGLE - AltLd - 12/Apr/14 with Kevin Van Colina, Rob Horler

davidclare - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Klara Marsikova

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14

madguernseyboy - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/14 with Lucy Plowman

lgp81 - AltLd O/S - 19/Mar/14 with Brendan Gill

In one pitch.
The Ivanator - Lead rpt - 15/Mar/14 with Rich

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 09/Mar/14

Led pitch one, always a beautiful crackline
SamanthaRoach12 - AltLd rpt - 09/Mar/14 with ianlaw

James Jackson - 2014

Scuzlebut - Lead rpt - 28/Dec/13 with Matt

David Staples - Lead O/S - 15/Dec/13 with Tom Morgan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Nov/13

SamanthaRoach12 - AltLd rpt - 23/Nov/13 with ianlaw

Hidden - Lead - 19/Oct/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Oct/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 11/Oct/13

marsden.d.paul - Lead O/S - 06/Oct/13 with Jamie

youbecame - 2nd O/S - 06/Oct/13

Really enjoyed this route for some reason. The two pitches make it fun
Babika - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Loz Durant

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13

JulianB - AltLd - 05/Oct/13 with Amanda Redvers

Matt Amos - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/13

Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Audry Morrison

Easty14 - AltLd - 14/Sep/13

spenser - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13

SHONAJONES - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/13 with spenser

Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/13

Matt Amos - Solo O/S - 29/Aug/13

Adrian Daniels - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/13 with John Parrott

Steve Woollard - 2nd - 21/Aug/13 with Samantha Roach

SamanthaRoach12 - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Steve Woollard

gjh - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13

Took a novice lead both pitches.
Caroline 2010 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Aug/13

Done in a single pitch. Enjoyable, but if there was a runner in the first half of the first crack pitch it would be pretty soft at Severe.
D Berry - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/13 with Claire Berry

Massive rope drag with a single rope
Scuzlebut - Lead rpt - 06/Aug/13 with Matt

Neil Gay - Lead rpt - 01/Aug/13 with Emily Gay, Al Gay

shim - 2nd - Aug/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 28/Jul/13

Neil Gay - 2nd rpt - 22/Jul/13 with Ben Bird

BenBird - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/13 with Neil Gay

Neil Gay - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/13 with Al Gay

Eike - 2nd - 06/Jul/13 with Iain Shone

Led as a oner. Good climb, worth a star, no serious looseness.
The Ivanator - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Dave

davenev - 2nd rpt - 05/Jul/13 with Ivan

beth_may - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/13 with William Brown

Neil Stansbie - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Caz Coleman

will7 - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/13 with theo

fishinwater - Lead - 18/Jun/13 with Rob H

Led 1st pitch, seconded 2nd. Nice climb.
goatboy76 - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/13 with Duncan Backhurst, Jake Leach

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 02/Jun/13

Climbed as one pitch with massive rope drag.
Echna - Lead O/S - Jun/13 with Rich

Georgia H - Lead - Jun/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/May/13

TimPerkin - Lead - 26/May/13 with Tom Perkin

nice middle section.
rustyfishhook - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Simon Fowler

will909 - AltLd rpt - 25/May/13

Loads of gear after 6m and little loose rock now. Nice!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 17/May/13 with Mike

Mayaculpa - 2nd - 17/May/13 with Ben

Caroline 2010 - AltLd O/S - 08/May/13 with Felix ottey

Hidden - AltLd - 07/May/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/May/13

Adam Perrett - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Sarah Perrett, John Leonard

Really enjoyed this one. Doesn't seem to be any significant loose stuff anymore.
johnl - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett

Felix Ottey - AltLd rpt - 04/May/13

ali macphee - Lead - 03/May/13

TomGudgeon - AltLd O/S - May/13 with Matt Williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13

Pete Rigby - Solo O/S - 27/Apr/13

kelliroberts3 - Solo - 27/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 25/Apr/13

ali macphee - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13

carl_123 - Lead rpt - 23/Apr/13

nice outing up another fine slice of slab.
rustyfishhook - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/13 with Simon Fowler

Trippinjester - 2nd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Jamie Knight

jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/13 with Paul Poudevigne-Durance, Jonny Forster

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Apr/13

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 15/Apr/13 with Shunt

paul1234 - Lead - 08/Apr/13 with Sarah, Rich

petegunn - 2nd - 03/Apr/13 with Onk, Davina

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/13

Hidden - TR rpt - 18/Mar/13

becoming-stranger - Lead O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Beth Mc

beth_may - 2nd O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Will Pope

Hidden - Lead - 03/Mar/13

homing-penguin - 2nd O/S - 02/Mar/13 with David

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Feb/13

Nix33 - 2013

numb feet helped when foot jamming crack at base, fecking cold hands give no feedback on grip strength nice little route though
risby - 2nd O/S - 08/Dec/12 with Tom Thorne

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12

lewiz - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Kirsten Donovan

Doughnut - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Lewis Thompson

2 pitches, lead first pitch and Ben lead the second
Morgan P - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Ben Walters

BBEENN - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12

Ran both picthes together. First section was really nice but then quite easy after that.
Kylie - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Luke Vincent

arandall - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Liz

pffft - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Kylie Richards

Lizzie Randall - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Alex

ben.richards - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Theo Celano

carl_123 - Lead rpt - 23/Aug/12

The Pylon King - Solo O/S - 12/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/Aug/12

Finished it in glorious sunshine compared to the pouring rain last time!
jamiemcdonald - Lead β - 11/Aug/12 with Michelle Taylor

Wet and much harder than usual
bpmclimb - AltLd rpt - 03/Aug/12 with Clare

Felix Ottey - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12

wurzelinzummerset - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Lee

Led pitch 2. Tricky start to the first pitch.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with Alan

Pitch 1
bpmclimb - Solo rpt - 19/Jul/12

Good new shiny stake at top!
paul1234 - Lead - 06/Jul/12 with josh

Abseiled off the small tree at the top of the first crack. Rain stopped play :(
jamiemcdonald - Lead dnf - 06/Jul/12 with Michelle Taylor, Phill Sparks

Alor_lab - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/12 with Harri

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jun/12

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 18/Jun/12 with Shunt

upontop - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/12 with Chris

will909 - AltLd rpt - 27/May/12

Definitely best done on double ropes or via two pitches utilising (almost non-existent) belay at small tree midway.
ClimbskiTim - Lead rpt - 16/May/12 with Bryony R

BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Will Wykes, Rob Horler

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Apr/12

P1 Emma/ P2 Me
Sarah Welsh - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/12 with Emma Grant

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/12

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Apr/12

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Apr/12

lukerathmell - AltLd rpt - 24/Mar/12 with steve

luke13 - Lead - 24/Mar/12 with Paul

paul1234 - Lead - 24/Mar/12 with Saffers

P1 only as Simon couldn't belay (Henry belayed P1). The guidebook wasn't lying about the protection! The first I could get were 3 questionable nuts about 6-7m up. Some loose rock on the traverse.
Katherine Ross - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Simon

Steve27 - AltLd - 24/Mar/12 with Luke Rathmell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12

Weather was unbelievable - so, so fine! Did first abseil down after since I was 10! Fuck I was shit!
LukeHowse - 2nd dog - 26/Feb/12 with Geoff Burton

Hidden - Lead rpt - 26/Feb/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Feb/12

bradholmes - AltLd rpt - 19/Feb/12 with Chris Bonner

luke_judd - Lead - 16/Oct/11 with Sarah Smith

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Oct/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/11

nick hawkins - 2nd - 14/Oct/11

Steve27 - AltLd - 02/Oct/11 with Ewan Gilmour

gilmourheid - AltLd - 02/Oct/11 with Steve27

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11

Poco Loco - 2nd - 03/Sep/11 with andy2, Dean

1 pitch better protected than advertised just have plenty of cams
kiwi boy - Lead β - 03/Sep/11 with james 2, dean naylor

Deano100 - 2nd - 03/Sep/11 with Andy H, James P

Hidden - Lead - 29/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - 15/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - 08/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/11

Nice two pitch. One peice of gear on 1st pitch in horizontal break 12m in. crack line looks like it should take gear but it does not. Minor loose blocks otherwise worthwhile doing. belay trees along way back at the top.
kiwi boy - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/11 with rob

Pleasant enough, let down by loose rock on traverse.
Bobling - Lead - 27/Jul/11 with Laura, Andy

Good climb, Chris found some good placements on the first pitch.
bradholmes - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Chris Bonner

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11

Dave Ing - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/11 with Bridgette

Hidden - AltLd rpt - Jul/11

stuntsbyjon - 27/Jun/11

Lead 1st pitch
stpauliblade - AltLd - 25/Jun/11 with Sam Oliver

very pleasant first pitch. Slightly loose in the second. Almost worth a star but not quite.
James Moyle - 2nd - 22/Jun/11 with piers cunliffe, D. Murphy

Depite the route following a crack the protection is surprisingly poor.
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

did second pitch with one wire and sling around tree. Probably was more gear options but there isn't tons.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 19/Jun/11 with Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook

Strung both pitches together
riddle - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Yasmina

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11

Did the second pitch
Sam..Oliver - AltLd - 04/Jun/11

Will Gordon - AltLd O/S - Jun/11 with Geoff Burton

climbers club says the first crack has no protection but there are lots of cams and a few nut placemnts to choose from
carl_123 - Lead O/S - 12/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/11

Hidden - Lead - May/11

Andyh83 - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Hannah B, Taff D

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Apr/11

Whole thing. p1 23m (12m to tree and 11m traverse), p2 25m.
bpmclimb - Solo rpt - 06/Apr/11

cas smerdon - Lead - 21/Mar/11 with mark joyce

Lead first pitch, pleasant climb
J.Atkins - AltLd O/S - 20/Mar/11 with Tom Osterwold

Just to the tree, to get a rope up.
bpmclimb - Solo rpt - 14/Mar/11

will909 - AltLd - 2011

djromberg - 2011

Fairly simple even when wet
davenev - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/10 with mick

belay point long long way back!
7ames - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

HS 1. 4a- 20m 2. 4a- 25m Second Easy Avon and Cheddar
Matt Smyth - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with Raff Russell, Olly Pirkis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Sep/10

John Foster - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/10 with Geoff

stuntsbyjon - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - TR O/S - 30/Aug/10

nick p1, me 2
wilf - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/10 with nick f

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/10

Lead 2nd pitch
stpauliblade - AltLd - 08/Aug/10

SharonC1604 - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10

dale1968 - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/10 with angus, Tom

Lead Pitch one, climbed with Dale and Angus
TommityP - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/10

cas smerdon - AltLd - 21/Jul/10 with mark joyce

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/10

mikehay - Lead O/S - 2010

JJSegarty - 2nd O/S - Oct/09 with Sue Taylor, Alan Taylor

Matt02003 - Lead - Aug/09

luke13 - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09 with Paul

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jun/09

petegunn - 2nd - 28/May/09 with Davina

First pitch only
Richard Morgan - Lead - 25/May/09 with Rich Hill

With a single rope, I should've stopped to belay halfway instead of treating it as a single pitch. I had a problem with rope drag, esp as I put a sling on a small tree over to the left due to lack of other protection above the halfway (belayable) tree. At the top, I untied from the rope and tied it to a large tree, 25m back from the edge, which meant Doug had to climb without me belaying for the first few metres. I hadn't read the advice about setting up the top anchor in advance! He said afterwards that he had previously used the small saplings off to the side (which I hadn't considered). Apart from that, I enjoyed the climbing!
jayne-bravo - Lead β - 03/May/09 with Doug Lee

Lead first pitch. Finished up second pitch of Epic Dural.
SC - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09 with mike kann

colin milton - 2nd - 13/Apr/09 with chris dew

gringoloco - AltLd - 13/Apr/09 with colin milton

wheelo - Lead - 28/Feb/09 with cas

cas smerdon - 2nd - 28/Feb/09 with john wheeler

John Lisle - 17/Oct/08 with CC

Rose Williams - AltLd O/S - 22/Aug/08 with dan p

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jun/08

Hidden - 23/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/08

Dad led it.. a nice climb, first climb in a while so felt a bit off balance and took a while to get back into it! Nothing special about it really...
Sam Pictor - 2nd O/S - 30/May/08 with Dad

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Apr/08

ashleylist - Mar/08 with Tamsin Collins

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/08

MarkRyder - 2nd O/S - 26/Jan/08 with Lee

ian d f - Lead - 2008

igneouscarl - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07

Matt Tranter - Solo - 17/Sep/07

ashleylist - Lead β - Sep/07 with Tamsin Collins

ashleylist - Lead β - Sep/07 with Tamsin Collins

A little bit windy for me but with a nice thin, v.unprotected shallow crack to start.
Anthony Allsopp - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/07 with DAve and Jason (HMC)

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 13/Aug/07

guy xavier percival - Solo O/S - 09/Aug/07 with none

Dan B - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/07 with Bev

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/07

cas smerdon - 2nd - 06/Jun/07 with Ian Jones

Very straight-forward. The 4a move(s?) felt like they were right at the top of the second pitch. Had to go up as our abb rope got jammed and I couldn't really be bothered prussicking up the rope.
freelancer_85 - Solo O/S - 02/May/07

First pitch only
kevinknights - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with John, Dan

Good climb, but a bit loose on the traverse across to the belay at the top of the first pitch.
RichS-Bristol - 2007

John_Hat - Lead O/S - 2007 with Various

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06

bpmclimb - 2nd O/S - 02/Nov/06 with Clare

dpmUK - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/06 with Britta

Excelent route although start of 1st and second pitchs are scantly protected for first 3-4m Andy led second pitch.
Tempest - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/06 with AndyM

Hidden - Solo rpt - 29/Jun/06

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/06

Sally led 1st pitch, I led second. Sparse pro
Hewey - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/06 with Sally

bob3141 - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/06 with Jon Martin

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 19/Mar/06

JamieAyres - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/06 with Nick Ingram

First pitch only
BruceW - Solo O/S - 25/Feb/06

mike kann - Lead O/S - 2006 with Steve Corner (SC)

gaz.marshall - Solo O/S - 2006

Jen79 - 2nd - Aug/05 with Matt Litchfield

upontop - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Digger - 2nd O/S - 04/Oct/03 with Mike Moncrieffe

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/03

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Total votes cast 100
hard VS0 of 38
VS0 of 38
easy VS0 of 38
hard HS5 of 38
HS16 of 38
easy HS15 of 38
hard S2 of 38
S0 of 38
easy S0 of 38
hard 4b0 of 35
4b0 of 35
easy 4b2 of 35
hard 4a6 of 35
4a14 of 35
easy 4a12 of 35
hard 3c1 of 35
3c0 of 35
easy 3c0 of 35
3 Stars2 of 27
2 Stars7 of 27
1 Star15 of 27
0 Stars2 of 27
Bag of .....1 of 27
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Style of ascent

Soloed15 of 255 (5.9%)
Lead114 of 255 (44.7%)
Followed49 of 255 (19.2%)
Toproped4 of 255 (1.6%)
Alt Leads65 of 255 (25.5%)
Unknown8 of 255 (3.1%)

'Climbed'74 of 255 (29.0%)
clean O/S137 of 255 (53.7%)
clean β5 of 255 (2.0%)
clean rpt37 of 255 (14.5%)
dogged1 of 255 (0.4%)
dnf1 of 255 (0.4%)