Lumbar Puncture* E2 5b
[Steve pushing the boat out on the lower slab, 2 kb]36m. Climb the centre of the slab, crossing a horizontal break and a thin diagonal crack, to a ledge. Take a more or less direct line up the slab above to the top. Good stake at top, backups (if desired) are a long way back. NOTE: it is easy to get off line, since the lower slab is climbable pretty much everywhere at about 5c. For Lumbar Puncture, start at some blocky little footholds and climb the slab very directly to the ledge. The line of the route is a little nearer to Halfway to Kansas than one might expect, especially where that route kinks right.
I Butterworth, R Nadin, E Findlay 11/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Photo: Steve pushing the boat out on the lower slab © Adrian Daniels
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 195 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/15

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/15

Mayaculpa - 2nd - 18/Jul/15 with Michael H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/15

Adrian Daniels - 2nd - 05/Jul/15 with Steve Webster

Got the first pitch, bailed on the second as it was very sweaty in the sun. Next time maybe! Need more micros too.
OllieF - Lead dnf - 23/Jun/15 with Chris Rees

Felix Ottey - 2nd rpt - 21/Jun/15

markfromstoke - Lead - 06/Jun/15 with Duncan

To the ledge. Climbed to help assess independence of Slip Disc. Still undecided.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 04/Jun/15 with Shunt

smartydh9 - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/15

rhys.nadin - Lead O/S - 30/May/15 with Richard Nadin

lead this after seconding it a few weeks earlier. First E2 on a slab. Really chuffed.
Legs - Lead rpt - 28/May/15 with Sarah

Hidden - 2nd - 28/May/15

Really nice climb, bold and a bit unprotected for first section after mid-way break. A few large loose blocks on top and at halfway break.
stujamac - Lead O/S - 24/May/15 with Sabrina Motzkus

my first E climb, ever :)
Bri_79 - 2nd - 24/May/15 with Stuart MacLachlan

steve_gibbs - Lead rpt - 21/May/15 with Max Coney

One to lead next time I go! Moves were really good.
Legs - 2nd O/S - 21/May/15 with Steve

Tom Seccombe - 2nd O/S - 20/May/15 with Wayne

Hidden - TR O/S - 18/May/15

Hidden - Lead - 16/May/15

Paul Baller - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/15 with matt stevens

Fatclimber - TR - 08/Apr/15 with Self Belayed

davidclare - TR O/S - 07/Apr/15 with Tris Vye

smartydh9 - Lead RP - 06/Apr/15

madguernseyboy - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/15 with Neil Nand, Lucy Plowman

Wildstyle - 2nd O/S - 04/Apr/15 with Neil Nand, Brendan Gill

Been a while since I'd done much outdoor climbing, slab technique had suffered
ElBarto - 2nd dog - 04/Apr/15 with Brendan Gill, Lucy Plowman

David Staples - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/15

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 13/Dec/14

Hidden - Lead - 13/Dec/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/14

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 21/Sep/14

Echna - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/14 with Rich

zcsharp - Lead rpt - 07/Sep/14 with Alex Tibbs

Paul Eckton - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14 with steve read

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead - 05/Sep/14

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 02/Sep/14 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd - Sep/14

Hidden - Lead - Sep/14

Hidden - TR O/S - 30/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/14

petegunn - 2nd - 27/Aug/14 with Davina

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/14 with Jamie Roberts

Think i went to far right after the first break and did some variation joining back up with the main route on the upper slab. Thought it was a bit more direct and harder.
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/14 with Steve Gibbs

Nice long slab climb. 2nd E2.
cdpuk - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Rob Scarisbrick

RobScarisbrick - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/14 with cdpuk

ian d f - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/14 with Adrian, Mark

markfromstoke - 2nd - 30/Jul/14 with Adrian, Ian

After seconding it last year!
brew_guru - Lead β - 23/Jul/14 with Miriam

markfromstoke - 2nd - 10/Jul/14 with Steve N

marsden.d.paul - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Tom Blight

racked with guilt - used the tree to the right of the ledge at mid height to protect bold section
thomb - Lead - 03/Jul/14 with Paul

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Tim Culwick

Hidden - 2nd - 29/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/Jun/14

First E2 lead, Wen't up it the other day as a second instead of doing half way to kansas and looked at it on the absail before. Felt quite comfortable. Very glad Mike has c3's.
felixizzy - Lead RP - 30/May/14 with Mike

Hidden - 2nd - 27/May/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 26/May/14

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/May/14 with Nick Nicely

nicknicely - 2nd - 19/May/14 with brian

tskelhon - Lead O/S - May/14 with Charlotte

clmacdonald - 2nd - May/14 with tskelhon

davenev - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/14 with David

drgrange - 2nd - 29/Apr/14 with davenev

Led from the midway ledge up....will be back for the rest..cracking route!
BallsOfSteel - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Adrian Daniels - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with John Parrott, Steve Webster

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/14

J.Atkins - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/14

Oddjob - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Rosie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Mar/14

First ever E2 lead!!
Tristypants - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Bec Chalkley

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14

Shunt rpt
MoWalker3 - TR β - 16/Mar/14

James Jackson - 2014

Hidden - Solo rpt - 28/Dec/13

sheelba - 2nd - 23/Nov/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/13

Pete Randall - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Seb, Pete Neden

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13

Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Audry Morrison

Great climb hard on the toes watch the runout in the middle!
Felix Ottey - Lead β - 24/Aug/13

katemurphy_@hotmail - 2nd - 11/Aug/13

Possibly a variation of it, especially on the top quarter.
Echna - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Andy

Hidden - 2nd RP - 06/Aug/13

First half to ledge only. Need to return to complete proper-like
Neil Gay - Lead dnf - 18/Jul/13 with Al Gay

wilkinscl - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Edward shelly

morpcat - 2nd - 14/Jul/13 with wilkinscl

Almost went and put runner around tree on Kansas but found nut at feet so went on.
MoWalker3 - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/13 with Cormac

Hard but do-able
Fjsinclair - 2nd dog - Jul/13

Should go back and finish it really
Neil Stansbie - Lead dnf - 30/Jun/13 with Caz Coleman

brew_guru - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13 with liam

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/13 with Richard

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Geoff Pyatt

tcoombe1 - Lead - Jun/13

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Debbie

Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/13

kate tarrant - 2nd β - May/13

Maxim2023 - Lead O/S - May/13 with Kate Tarrant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 15/Apr/13 with Shunt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13

petegunn - Lead - 03/Apr/13 with Onk, Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Apr/13

Hidden - TR rpt - 18/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/13

First E2, Glorious led and forgot his slings. Not that he needed protection.
David Staples - 2nd O/S - Mar/13 with Glorious

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12

So technical and so, so good. Hardest climb I have ever done and absolutely worth it. Holds were tiny crimps with the same for feet for 35m except one horizontal break in the middle. Amazing!
Morgan P - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Ben Walters

kirsten - 2nd - 08/Sep/12 with Brian

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/12 with Kirsten, Mick

BBEENN - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12

LukeyG - Lead - 03/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/12

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Aug/12 with Clare

Urgles - 2nd rpt - 19/Aug/12 with bpmclimb

Did in two pitches. Lead first half, great fun.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook

Did unconventionally in 2 pitches which made it a little safer that it would normally would but was still fun anyway, second pitch which I led has 1 hard move near the start and is easy thereafter.
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

Urgles - 2nd - 12/Aug/12

Hidden - TR O/S - 11/Aug/12

Felix Ottey - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/12

tommytom - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 19/Jul/12 with Shunt

kelliroberts3 - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Peter Rigby

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jun/12

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 18/Jun/12 with Shunt

riddle - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Adam Ryan

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12

Fixed side runner at halfway ledge (E1 5b?)
clams - Lead O/S - Jun/12 with Mai

Dawlish - Lead O/S - 30/May/12 with pete

will909 - 2nd rpt - 27/May/12

cas smerdon - 2nd - 23/May/12 with mark joyce

wow!excellent.tricky before the ledge,interesting scoop and good climbing all the way to the top
tomshanti - 2nd β - 27/Mar/12 with Luke Partridge

good till after the groove, then all over
sweenyt - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/12 with Tom M

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12

j miller - Lead O/S - 2012

will909 - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11

Sweet
riddle - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/11

Ruth ND - 2nd β - 24/May/11 with Ev

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/11

mattshort - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Alan Murray

First E2 (having skipped E1!!??). This looked inviting from the ground and felt easier than I was expecting an E2 to feel.
Rowan Mitchell - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Christopher Jones

Christopher Jones - 2nd - 15/May/11 with Rowan Mitchell

A good route not E2 more like E1 5b no way near as hard as epic-dural next to it at the same grade.
Dale - Lead O/S - May/11 with dave

E2, but 5b, not 5c. 36m
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 06/Apr/11 with Shunt

Lovely start.
Kate Edhouse - 2nd O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Kyle Worgan

Great route - tricky mid section
davenev - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with luke

Nice climbing. I thought it felt like an E2- occasional footholds coming away and bit bold where the cruxes are.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with davenev

We agreed there were no 5c moves, but plenty of 5b ones, and the route is still bold enough to get E2. BTW if you have 60m ropes you can untie, and attach the ends to a sling round a good tree some 20m back (or left-hand rope to the saplings); the second can then climb on two ropes.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Aug/10 with Clare

Nice line. Some small holds crumbled in my hands or under feet. Climbed as one pitch. No stakes at top and trees too far back to be of use, belayed to a boulder - not ideal.
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10 with Nick

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Ben Smith

paul1234 - 2nd - 27/Jun/09 with ollie

Hidden - TR - 02/Jun/09

Hidden - TR - 02/Jun/09

Mark Salter - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with Gareth Lewis

Very nice but with snappy holds. Have to go back & lead.
SC - 2nd β - 13/Apr/09 with mike kann

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with James P

Great bit of slab climbing
jamespilgrim - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Mark

Pulled some handholds off on upper slab and finished up Kansas
John Lisle - Lead - 17/Oct/08 with CC

E1 / perhaps E2 because it's bold at the crux. The climbing is easy 5b. To put it in perspective the first pitch of Grip Thynne at LQP is a much more serious route with a similar (perhaps marginally easier) crux graded at E1. Good climbing, still some loose holds. Also this is a bit of an eliminate / confusing line.
Jon_Warner - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/08 with Ben Arch

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 23/Jun/08 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08

Really enjoyed it, and it made it even sweeter by returning to 'avenge' a previously failed attempt :)
Sam Pictor - Lead RP - 30/May/08 with Dad

chris sm - Lead O/S - 17/May/08 with Pippa Froggatt

ashleylist - 2nd - Mar/08 with Tamsin Collins

lovely climb
Sandy Holford - 2nd β - 17/Feb/08 with Anthony Allsopp

Anthony Allsopp - Lead rpt - 17/Feb/08 with Sandy Holford

kristofferalpsjo - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Toby Kluth

Matt Tranter - Lead β - 22/Sep/07 with Mark Ward.

Urgles - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Mix

Anthony Allsopp - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/07 with Sandy Holford

My first 5c second. Lovely thin slab. NO problems really. Went one to lead my first E1 after that!
Anthony Allsopp - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/07 with DAve and Jason (HMC)

Paul Robertson - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Hannah Redmond

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/07 with jamie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/07

First E2. Great fun.
cas smerdon - 2nd - 11/Jun/07 with mprb007

Nice route, my first E2 onsight, led it in one pitch with a big old single rope on my back for belaying off the trees, which possibly made it a tad harder.
freelancer_85 - Lead O/S - 02/May/07 with Megan

JimR - Lead - 2007 with AJM

John_Hat - Lead O/S - 2007 with Various

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/06 with Clare

upontop - Lead O/S - Sep/06 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/06

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Jun/06

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/05 with Alice Howe

just one more - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/05 with tim b

KRB - Solo O/S - 16/Apr/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2005

cornishben - AltLd O/S - 2004

Hidden - Lead - 2004

Digger - 2nd O/S - 20/May/03 with James Latham

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
catty_9, Tom F Harding, Tom Harper, Owen W-G, ben.richards, SC

Voting
Total votes cast 89
hard E30 of 38
E30 of 38
easy E30 of 38
hard E21 of 38
E226 of 38
easy E24 of 38
hard E17 of 38
E10 of 38
easy E10 of 38
hard 5c0 of 16
5c0 of 16
easy 5c0 of 16
hard 5b2 of 16
5b14 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
hard 5a0 of 16
5a0 of 16
easy 5a0 of 16
3 Stars0 of 35
2 Stars10 of 35
1 Star23 of 35
0 Stars2 of 35
Bag of .....0 of 35
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP
Dogged
DNF