Somerset > Fairy Cave Quarry >
 
Lumbar Puncture* E2 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Halfway to Kansas
 
Epic-dural >>
[Steve pushing the boat out on the lower slab, 2 kb]36m. Climb the centre of the slab, crossing a horizontal break and a thin diagonal crack, to a ledge. Take a more or less direct line up the slab above to the top. Good stake at top, but there's only one. Possible backup on saplings over left, or pull up a rope and use trees well back from the quarry rim.
I Butterworth, R Nadin, E Findlay 11/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Photo: Steve pushing the boat out on the lower slab © Adrian Daniels
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 142 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

After seconding it last year!
brew_guru - Lead β - 23/Jul/14 with Miriam

markfromstoke - 2nd - 10/Jul/14 with Steve N

marsden.d.paul - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/14 with Tom Blight

racked with guilt - used the tree to the right of the ledge at mid height to protect bold section
thomb - Lead - 03/Jul/14 with Paul

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Tim Culwick

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 12/Jun/14

First E2 lead, Wen't up it the other day as a second instead of doing half way to kansas and looked at it on the absail before. Felt quite comfortable. Very glad Mike has c3's.
felixizzy - Lead RP - 30/May/14 with Mike

Hidden - 2nd - 27/May/14

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 26/May/14

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/May/14 with Nick Nicely

nicknicely - 2nd - 19/May/14 with brian

tskelhon - Lead O/S - May/14 with Charlotte

davenev - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/14 with David

drgrange - 2nd - 29/Apr/14 with davenev

Led from the midway ledge up....will be back for the rest..cracking route!
BallsOfSteel - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/14

Adrian Daniels - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with John Parrott, Steve Webster

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/14

J.Atkins - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/14

Oddjob - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Rosie

rosame85 - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/14

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Mar/14

First ever E2 lead!!
Tristypants - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14 with Bec Chalkley

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14

Shunt
MoWalker3 - TR β - 16/Mar/14

James Jackson - 2014

The ab rope got stuck after doing halfway to kansass, had to get back up there somehow!
Scuzlebut - Solo rpt - 28/Dec/13 with Matt

sheelba - 2nd - 23/Nov/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Oct/13

Pete Randall - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Seb, Pete Neden

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/Oct/13

Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/13 with Audry Morrison

Great climb hard on the toes watch the runout in the middle!
Felix Ottey - Lead β - 24/Aug/13

katemurphy_@hotmail - 2nd - 11/Aug/13

Possibly a variation of it, especially on the top quarter.
Echna - 2nd O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Andy

Scuzlebut - 2nd RP - 06/Aug/13 with Gregor, Andy

First half to ledge only. Need to return to complete proper-like
Neil Gay - Lead dnf - 18/Jul/13 with Al Gay

wilkinscl - Lead O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Edward shelly

morpcat - 2nd - 14/Jul/13 with wilkinscl

Almost went and put runner around tree on Kansas but found nut at feet so went on.
MoWalker3 - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/13 with Cormac

Hard but do-able
Fjsinclair - 2nd dog - Jul/13

Should go back and finish it really
Neil Stansbie - Lead dnf - 30/Jun/13 with Caz Coleman

brew_guru - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13 with liam

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/13 with Richard

jon_ridley - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/13 with Geoff Pyatt

tcoombe1 - Lead - Jun/13

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 31/May/13 with Debbie

Hidden - 2nd - 26/May/13

kate tarrant - 2nd β - May/13

Maxim2023 - Lead O/S - May/13 with Kate Tarrant

scarily thin and dusty in places
hms - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/13 with Brian

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 15/Apr/13 with Shunt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/13

petegunn - Lead - 03/Apr/13 with Onk, Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Apr/13

Hidden - TR rpt - 18/Mar/13

Hidden - Lead rpt - 02/Mar/13

First E2, Glorious led and forgot his slings. Not that he needed protection.
David Staples - 2nd O/S - Mar/13 with Glorious

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Dec/12

So technical and so, so good. Hardest climb I have ever done and absolutely worth it. Holds were tiny crimps with the same for feet for 35m except one horizontal break in the middle. Amazing!
Morgan P - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Ben Walters

kirsten - 2nd - 08/Sep/12 with Brian

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/12 with Kirsten, Mick

BBEENN - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12

LukeyG - Lead - 03/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/12

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Aug/12 with Clare

The Pylon King - 2nd rpt - 19/Aug/12 with bpmclimb

Did in two pitches. Lead first half, great fun.
Stanners - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook

Did unconventionally in 2 pitches which made it a little safer that it would normally would but was still fun anyway, second pitch which I led has 1 hard move near the start and is easy thereafter.
Quarryboy - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

The Pylon King - 2nd - 12/Aug/12

Hidden - TR O/S - 11/Aug/12

Felix Ottey - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/12

tommytom - 2nd O/S - 21/Jul/12

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 19/Jul/12 with Shunt

kelliroberts3 - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Peter Rigby

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jun/12

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 18/Jun/12 with Shunt

riddle - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Adam Ryan

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12

Fixed side runner at halfway ledge (E1 5b?)
clams - Lead O/S - Jun/12 with Mai

Dawlish - Lead O/S - 30/May/12 with pete

will909 - 2nd rpt - 27/May/12

cas smerdon - 2nd - 23/May/12 with mark joyce

wow!excellent.tricky before the ledge,interesting scoop and good climbing all the way to the top
tomshanti - 2nd β - 27/Mar/12 with Luke Partridge

good till after the groove, then all over
sweenyt - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/12 with Tom M

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12

j miller - Lead O/S - 2012

will909 - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/11

Sweet
riddle - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jun/11

Ruth ND - 2nd β - 24/May/11 with Ev

Lovely climb - no 5c moves though + some good gear
evhall - Lead O/S - 24/May/11 with Ruth

mattshort - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Alan Murray

First E2 (having skipped E1!!??). This looked inviting from the ground and felt easier than I was expecting an E2 to feel.
Rowan Mitchell - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Christopher Jones

Christopher Jones - 2nd - 15/May/11 with Rowan Mitchell

A good route not E2 more like E1 5b no way near as hard as epic-dural next to it at the same grade.
Dale - Lead O/S - May/11 with dave

E2, but 5b, not 5c. 36m
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 06/Apr/11 with Shunt

Lovely start.
Kate Edhouse - 2nd O/S - 20/Feb/11 with Kyle Worgan

Great route - tricky mid section
davenev - 2nd O/S - 16/Oct/10 with luke

Nice climbing. I thought it felt like an E2- occasional footholds coming away and bit bold where the cruxes are.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10 with davenev

We agreed there were no 5c moves, but plenty of 5b ones, and the route is still bold enough to get E2. BTW if you have 60m ropes you can untie, and attach the ends to a sling round a good tree some 20m back (or left-hand rope to the saplings); the second can then climb on two ropes.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Aug/10 with Clare

Nice line. Some small holds crumbled in my hands or under feet. Climbed as one pitch. No stakes at top and trees too far back to be of use, belayed to a boulder - not ideal.
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/10 with Nick

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/09 with Ben Smith

paul1234 - 2nd - 27/Jun/09 with ollie

Hidden - TR - 02/Jun/09

Hidden - TR - 02/Jun/09

Mark Salter - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with Gareth Lewis

Very nice but with snappy holds. Have to go back & lead.
SC - 2nd β - 13/Apr/09 with mike kann

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/09 with James P

Great bit of slab climbing
jamespilgrim - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/09 with Mark

Pulled some handholds off on upper slab and finished up Kansas
John Lisle - Lead - 17/Oct/08 with CC

E1 / perhaps E2 because it's bold at the crux. The climbing is easy 5b. To put it in perspective the first pitch of Grip Thynne at LQP is a much more serious route with a similar (perhaps marginally easier) crux graded at E1. Good climbing, still some loose holds. Also this is a bit of an eliminate / confusing line.
Jon_Warner - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/08 with Ben Arch

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 23/Jun/08 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/08

Really enjoyed it, and it made it even sweeter by returning to 'avenge' a previously failed attempt :)
Sam Pictor - Lead RP - 30/May/08 with Dad

chris sm - Lead O/S - 17/May/08 with Pippa Froggatt

ashleylist - 2nd - Mar/08 with Tamsin Collins

lovely climb
Sandy Holford - 2nd β - 17/Feb/08 with Anthony Allsopp

Anthony Allsopp - Lead rpt - 17/Feb/08 with Sandy Holford

ian d f - Lead - 2008

kristofferalpsjo - Lead O/S - Oct/07 with Toby Kluth

Matt Tranter - Lead β - 22/Sep/07 with Mark Ward.

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Mix

Anthony Allsopp - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/07 with Sandy Holford

My first 5c second. Lovely thin slab. NO problems really. Went one to lead my first E1 after that!
Anthony Allsopp - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/07 with DAve and Jason (HMC)

Paul Robertson - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/07 with Hannah Redmond

maybe_si - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/07 with jamie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/07

First E2. Great fun.
cas smerdon - 2nd - 11/Jun/07 with mprb007

Nice route, my first E2 onsight, led it in one pitch with a big old single rope on my back for belaying off the trees, which possibly made it a tad harder.
freelancer_85 - Lead O/S - 02/May/07 with Megan

JimR - Lead - 2007 with AJM

John_Hat - Lead O/S - 2007 with Various

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/06 with Clare

upontop - Lead O/S - Sep/06 with Chris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/06

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Jun/06

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/05 with Alice Howe

KRB - Solo O/S - 16/Apr/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2005

cornishben - AltLd O/S - 2004

Digger - 2nd O/S - 20/May/03 with James Latham

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Tom F Harding, Tom Harper, lgp81, Owen W-G, ben.richards, SC

Voting
Total votes cast 67
hard E30 of 31
E30 of 31
easy E30 of 31
hard E21 of 31
E220 of 31
easy E24 of 31
hard E16 of 31
E10 of 31
easy E10 of 31
hard 5c0 of 8
5c0 of 8
easy 5c0 of 8
hard 5b1 of 8
5b7 of 8
easy 5b0 of 8
hard 5a0 of 8
5a0 of 8
easy 5a0 of 8
3 Stars0 of 28
2 Stars8 of 28
1 Star19 of 28
0 Stars1 of 28
Bag of .....0 of 28
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Style of ascent

Soloed2 of 142 (1.4%)
Lead75 of 142 (52.8%)
Followed50 of 142 (35.2%)
Toproped9 of 142 (6.3%)
Alt Leads5 of 142 (3.5%)
Unknown1 of 142 (0.7%)

'Climbed'29 of 142 (20.4%)
clean O/S77 of 142 (54.2%)
clean β9 of 142 (6.3%)
clean rpt21 of 142 (14.8%)
clean RP3 of 142 (2.1%)
dogged1 of 142 (0.7%)
dnf2 of 142 (1.4%)