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Epic-dural E2 5c

Adjacent Climbs
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[frist half of Epic-Dural, 2 kb]36m. Climb the RH side of the exfoliating slab via a good thin crack to a ledge. Climb the wide diagonal crack above, past a tree before finishing directly up the right-hand side of the upper slab. Tree belays a long way back; pull up a rope (if you haven't preplaced one).
R Nadin, P Clarke, M Raine 30/Mar/2002

Photo: frist half of Epic-Dural © Dawlish
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 55 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

The sapling on the lower slab has gone.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 02/Sep/14 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/14

petegunn - Lead - 27/Aug/14 with Davina

Bottom half was certainly exciting. Ended up running it out quite a bit - in a few places I might have been able to get an extra piece in, but just felt I was in too precarious a position to fiddle around. Compared with Lumbar Puncture, I think the moves on this were harder and the gear worse (or at least trickier to place). (Possible I might have wandered too far left as I came up to the halfway ledge: was just below the small tree, topo showed the route a bit further right. However it felt natural, about 5c, and matches Dawlish's photo.)
will_benfold - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Sarah Woodrow

Pintsize - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Will Benfold

ian d f - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/14 with Adrian, Mark

markfromstoke - 2nd - 30/Jul/14 with Adrian, Ian

to the ledge only.
markfromstoke - Lead - 10/Jul/14 with Steve N

Felix Ottey - TR O/S - 29/Jun/14

felixizzy - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/14 with Craig

felixizzy - 2nd O/S - 30/May/14 with Mike

One intense move with good protection.
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Camilla

Camilla Mapstone - 2nd - Mar/14 with Jamie

James Jackson - 2014

Bottom half felt very bold, holds coming off in my hands! Great moves, most enjoyable :)
brew_guru - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with El Peamundo

maresia - 2nd O/S - 26/May/13 with Mike Kann

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Apr/13

sapling at start now gone, done to the good trees at half height top not worth the effort.
LukeyG - Lead - 25/Apr/13

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 15/Apr/13 with Shunt

Hidden - TR O/S - 18/Mar/13

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 19/Jul/12 with Shunt

Hidden - TR O/S - 05/Jul/12

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 18/Jun/12 with Shunt

really good moves!sustained delicacy to the ledge,very tricky half way up 2nd slab(being eliminate,inbetween the trees)still crumbling in places!
tomshanti - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Luke Partridge

luke13 - Lead - 24/Mar/12 with Paul

upontop - Lead rpt - 2012 with Sophie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11

riddle - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/11

good, solid E2/5C. footholds have a tendency to disintegrate. wear a helmet or just dont climb it! very, very, very fun and great laughs when footholds "dissappear"!
Aaron Phillips - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/11 with my dad

take lots of micro wires, this one left me with a dry mouth by the time i got to the top
Dawlish - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Son Aaron

Ruth ND - 2nd β - 07/Jun/11 with Ev

nice route - slightly harder than it's neighbour!
evhall - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/11 with Ruth

Very Flaky rock with hard first section with only microwires for protection - scarey. The section above the ledge has a lot of loose rock but easy climbing. Split it into 2 pitches and lead both.
hutchay - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with Alex George

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/11

36m. A little harder than LP, a little better protected, and on slightly worse rock. All in all, E2 5c seems ok.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 06/Apr/11 with Shunt

first time to fairy cave, thought this route was a cross between slate slab and north devon culm this may be to do with the very cold winter all a little snappy. Micro nuts all the way to the first ledge 20m up where all hard climbing is only 1 of them micors was any good and a bit to low down. Enjoyable technicle climbing but scary got to the ledge couldn't stop shacking. Thought E2 5C was ment to be safe. Glad to be going home without a broken ankle 1 star
Dale - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with johny

paul1234 - 2nd - 27/Jun/09 with ollie

vertigo - 2nd β - 19/Oct/08 with Mark Ryder

The shattered groove above the ledge is very loose.
MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Rich

When they say small wires they mean it!
mike kann - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Ian Savage

The Pylon King - 2nd O/S - 14/Oct/07 with Paul Robertson

Paul Robertson - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/07 with Pylon King

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/07

upontop - 2nd - Aug/07 with Tim

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/07

Matt Tranter - 26/May/07

Quite a few loose "pancake" flakes, especially on the lower slab - significantly more than on Lumbar Puncture.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/07 with Clare

thin!
kevinknights - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/07 with John, Dan

John_Hat - Lead O/S - 2007 with Various

thrutch - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/06 with mel and chris

upontop - Lead dnf - Aug/06 with Chris

KRB - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/06 with Chris & Martin

chris sm - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Pippa Froggatt

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/03

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Motown, ben.richards

Voting
Total votes cast 37
hard E30 of 12
E30 of 12
easy E30 of 12
hard E22 of 12
E210 of 12
easy E20 of 12
hard E10 of 12
E10 of 12
easy E10 of 12
hard 6a0 of 13
6a0 of 13
easy 6a0 of 13
hard 5c0 of 13
5c11 of 13
easy 5c2 of 13
hard 5b0 of 13
5b0 of 13
easy 5b0 of 13
3 Stars0 of 12
2 Stars1 of 12
1 Star11 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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Style of ascent

Lead29 of 55 (52.7%)
Followed17 of 55 (30.9%)
Toproped7 of 55 (12.7%)
Unknown2 of 55 (3.6%)

'Climbed'13 of 55 (23.6%)
clean O/S31 of 55 (56.4%)
clean β2 of 55 (3.6%)
clean rpt7 of 55 (12.7%)
clean RP1 of 55 (1.8%)
dnf1 of 55 (1.8%)