36m. Start at the right edge of the Lumbar Puncture slab, and climb discontinuous cracks, more or less directly, to the right end of the halfway ledge. Move up to the trees; then climb directly up the upper slab. NOTE: the line of the route on the lower slab is less than obvious, and some recent ascentionists have strayed off line. This applies to the picture on here, in which the climber has gone too far left. The route goes very slightly left to a shallow hole, and up to a good little square-cut finger hold. From here, the 5c crux bears slightly RIGHT and then up to the RIGHT-hand end of the ledge. Following the crack up and left is part of My Own Trumpet (which is probably only 5b at that point).

R Nadin, P Clarke, M Raine 30/Mar/2002

Skip 27/Sep 2nd O/S
Mayaculpa 22/Aug TR

Did it twice, probably strayed too far left at first

with Mike Rotraxion
bpmclimb 04/Jun TR rpt

To the ledge. Climbed to help asses the independence of Slip Disc. The crux sequence of the two routes is the same, IMO.

with Shunt
felixizzy 03/Jun Lead rpt


with Craig
smartydh9 03/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr 2nd
madguernseyboy 04/Apr Lead O/S
Wildstyle 04/Apr 2nd
ElBarto 04/Apr 2nd dog

Been a while since I'd done much outdoor climbing, slab technique had suffered

smartydh9 ??/2015 TR O/S
bpmclimb 02/Sep/14 Lead rpt

The sapling on the lower slab has gone.

with Clare
Hidden ?/Sep/14 TR
Hidden 27/Aug/14 2nd O/S
petegunn 27/Aug/14 Lead
with Davina
will_benfold 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Bottom half was certainly exciting. Ended up running it out quite a bit - in a few places I might have been able to get an extra piece in, but just felt I was in too precarious a position to fiddle around. Compared with Lumbar Puncture, I think the moves on this were harder and the gear worse (or at least trickier to place). (Possible I might have wandered too far left as I came up to the halfway ledge: was just below the small tree, topo showed the route a bit further right. However it felt natural, about 5c, and matches Dawlish's photo.)

Pintsize 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
ian d f 30/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Adrian, Mark
markfromstoke 30/Jul/14 2nd
with Adrian, Ian
markfromstoke 10/Jul/14 Lead

to the ledge only.

with Steve N
Felix Ottey 29/Jun/14 TR O/S
felixizzy 05/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Craig
felixizzy 30/May/14 2nd O/S
with Mike
zcsharp 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S

One intense move with good protection.

with Camilla
Camilla Mapstone ?/Mar/14 2nd
with Jamie
James Jackson ??/2014 -
brew_guru 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Bottom half felt very bold, holds coming off in my hands! Great moves, most enjoyable :)

maresia 26/May/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/13 Lead RP
LukeyG 25/Apr/13 Lead

sapling at start now gone, done to the good trees at half height top not worth the effort.

bpmclimb 15/Apr/13 TR rpt
with Shunt
Hidden 18/Mar/13 TR O/S
bpmclimb 19/Jul/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
Hidden 05/Jul/12 TR O/S
bpmclimb 18/Jun/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
tomshanti 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S

really good moves!sustained delicacy to the ledge,very tricky half way up 2nd slab(being eliminate,inbetween the trees)still crumbling in places!

luke13 24/Mar/12 Lead
with Paul
upontop ??/2012 Lead rpt
with Sophie
Hidden 10/Sep/11 Lead O/S
riddle 27/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
Hidden 27/Aug/11 2nd
Aaron Phillips 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S

good, solid E2/5C. footholds have a tendency to disintegrate. wear a helmet or just dont climb it! very, very, very fun and great laughs when footholds "dissappear"!

with my dad
Dawlish 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S

take lots of micro wires, this one left me with a dry mouth by the time i got to the top

Ruth ND 07/Jun/11 2nd β
with Ev
Hidden 07/Jun/11 Lead O/S
hutchay 31/May/11 Lead O/S

Very Flaky rock with hard first section with only microwires for protection - scarey. The section above the ledge has a lot of loose rock but easy climbing. Split it into 2 pitches and lead both.

Hidden 31/May/11 2nd
bpmclimb 06/Apr/11 TR rpt

36m. A little harder than LP, a little better protected, and on slightly worse rock. All in all, E2 5c seems ok.

with Shunt
Dale ?/Mar/11 Lead O/S

first time to fairy cave, thought this route was a cross between slate slab and north devon culm this may be to do with the very cold winter all a little snappy. Micro nuts all the way to the first ledge 20m up where all hard climbing is only 1 of them micors was any good and a bit to low down. Enjoyable technicle climbing but scary got to the ledge couldn't stop shacking. Thought E2 5C was ment to be safe. Glad to be going home without a broken ankle 1 star

with johny
paul1234 27/Jun/09 2nd
with ollie
vertigo 19/Oct/08 2nd β
MarkRyder 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S

The shattered groove above the ledge is very loose.

with Rich
beardy mike 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S

When they say small wires they mean it!

with Ian Savage
Urgles 14/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Paul Robertson
Paul Robertson 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/07 2nd O/S
upontop ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Tim
Hidden 24/Jul/07 2nd
Matt Tranter 26/May/07 -
bpmclimb 22/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Quite a few loose "pancake" flakes, especially on the lower slab - significantly more than on Lumbar Puncture.

with Clare
kevinknights 21/Apr/07 2nd O/S


with John, Dan
John_Hat ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Various
thrutch 03/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with mel and chris
upontop ?/Aug/06 Lead dnf
with Chris
KRB 21/Jan/06 Lead O/S
with Chris & Martin
chris sm ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hooo, lazzaw, Motown, ben.richards
High E3
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Low E3
High E2
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
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High 6a
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High 5c
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High 5b
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Votes cast 14
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Flashed (β)
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