To the ledge. Climbed to help asses the independence of Slip Disc. The crux sequence of the two routes is the same, IMO.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 04/Jun/15 with Shunt
felixizzy - Lead rpt - 03/Jun/15 with Craig
smartydh9 - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/15
Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/15
Hidden - 2nd - 29/Apr/15
madguernseyboy - Lead O/S - 04/Apr/15 with Neil Nand, Lucy Plowman
Wildstyle - 2nd - 04/Apr/15 with Neil Nand, Brendan Gill
Been a while since I'd done much outdoor climbing, slab technique had suffered
ElBarto - 2nd dog - 04/Apr/15 with Brendan Gill, Lucy Plowman
smartydh9 - TR O/S - 2015
The sapling on the lower slab has gone.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 02/Sep/14 with Clare
Hidden - TR - Sep/14
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Aug/14
petegunn - Lead - 27/Aug/14 with Davina
Bottom half was certainly exciting. Ended up running it out quite a bit - in a few places I might have been able to get an extra piece in, but just felt I was in too precarious a position to fiddle around. Compared with Lumbar Puncture, I think the moves on this were harder and the gear worse (or at least trickier to place).
(Possible I might have wandered too far left as I came up to the halfway ledge: was just below the small tree, topo showed the route a bit further right. However it felt natural, about 5c, and matches Dawlish's photo.)
will_benfold - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Sarah Woodrow
Pintsize - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Will Benfold
ian d f - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/14 with Adrian, Mark
markfromstoke - 2nd - 30/Jul/14 with Adrian, Ian
to the ledge only.
markfromstoke - Lead - 10/Jul/14 with Steve N
Felix Ottey - TR O/S - 29/Jun/14
felixizzy - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/14 with Craig
felixizzy - 2nd O/S - 30/May/14 with Mike
One intense move with good protection.
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Camilla
Camilla Mapstone - 2nd - Mar/14 with Jamie
James Jackson - 2014
Bottom half felt very bold, holds coming off in my hands! Great moves, most enjoyable :)
brew_guru - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with El Peamundo
maresia - 2nd O/S - 26/May/13 with Mike Kann
Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Apr/13
sapling at start now gone, done to the good trees at half height top not worth the effort.
LukeyG - Lead - 25/Apr/13
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 15/Apr/13 with Shunt
Hidden - TR O/S - 18/Mar/13
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 19/Jul/12 with Shunt
Hidden - TR O/S - 05/Jul/12
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 18/Jun/12 with Shunt
really good moves!sustained delicacy to the ledge,very tricky half way up 2nd slab(being eliminate,inbetween the trees)still crumbling in places!
tomshanti - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Luke Partridge
luke13 - Lead - 24/Mar/12 with Paul
upontop - Lead rpt - 2012 with Sophie
Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11
riddle - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Yasmina
Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/11
good, solid E2/5C. footholds have a tendency to disintegrate. wear a helmet or just dont climb it! very, very, very fun and great laughs when footholds "dissappear"!
Aaron Phillips - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/11 with my dad
take lots of micro wires, this one left me with a dry mouth by the time i got to the top
Dawlish - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Son Aaron
Ruth ND - 2nd β - 07/Jun/11 with Ev
Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/11
Very Flaky rock with hard first section with only microwires for protection - scarey. The section above the ledge has a lot of loose rock but easy climbing. Split it into 2 pitches and lead both.
hutchay - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with Alex George
Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/11
36m. A little harder than LP, a little better protected, and on slightly worse rock. All in all, E2 5c seems ok.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 06/Apr/11 with Shunt
first time to fairy cave, thought this route was a cross between slate slab and north devon culm this may be to do with the very cold winter all a little snappy. Micro nuts all the way to the first ledge 20m up where all hard climbing is only 1 of them micors was any good and a bit to low down. Enjoyable technicle climbing but scary got to the ledge couldn't stop shacking. Thought E2 5C was ment to be safe. Glad to be going home without a broken ankle 1 star
Dale - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with johny
paul1234 - 2nd - 27/Jun/09 with ollie
vertigo - 2nd β - 19/Oct/08 with Mark Ryder
The shattered groove above the ledge is very loose.
MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Rich
When they say small wires they mean it!
beardy mike - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Ian Savage
Pylon King Against Capit@lism - 2nd O/S - 14/Oct/07 with Paul Robertson
Paul Robertson - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/07 with Pylon King
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/07
upontop - 2nd - Aug/07 with Tim
Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/07
Matt Tranter - 26/May/07
Quite a few loose "pancake" flakes, especially on the lower slab - significantly more than on Lumbar Puncture.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/07 with Clare
kevinknights - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/07 with John, Dan
John_Hat - Lead O/S - 2007 with Various
thrutch - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/06 with mel and chris
upontop - Lead dnf - Aug/06 with Chris
KRB - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/06 with Chris & Martin
chris sm - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Pippa Froggatt
cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/03