Somerset > Fairy Cave Quarry >
Epic-dural E2 5c

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[frist half of Epic-Dural, 2 kb]36m. Climb the RH side of the exfoliating slab via a good thin crack to a ledge. Climb the wide diagonal crack above, past a tree before finishing directly up the right-hand side of the upper slab. Tree belays a long way back; pull up a rope (if you haven't preplaced one).
R Nadin, P Clarke, M Raine 30/Mar/2002

Photo: frist half of Epic-Dural © Dawlish
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This climb is in 48 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

to the ledge only.
markfromstoke - Lead - 10/Jul/14 with Steve N

felixizzy - Lead rpt - 05/Jun/14 with Craig

felixizzy - 2nd O/S - 30/May/14 with Mike

One intense move with good protection.
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14 with Camilla

Camilla Mapstone - 2nd - Mar/14 with Jamie

James Jackson - 2014

Bottom half felt very bold, holds coming off in my hands! Great moves, most enjoyable :)
brew_guru - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with El Peamundo

maresia - 2nd O/S - 26/May/13 with Mike Kann

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Apr/13

sapling at start now gone, done to the good trees at half height top not worth the effort.
LukeyG - Lead - 25/Apr/13

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 15/Apr/13 with Shunt

Hidden - TR O/S - 18/Mar/13

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 19/Jul/12 with Shunt

Hidden - TR O/S - 05/Jul/12

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 18/Jun/12 with Shunt

really good moves!sustained delicacy to the ledge,very tricky half way up 2nd slab(being eliminate,inbetween the trees)still crumbling in places!
tomshanti - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/12 with Luke Partridge

luke13 - Lead - 24/Mar/12 with Paul

upontop - Lead rpt - 2012 with Sophie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11

riddle - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/11 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Aug/11

good, solid E2/5C. footholds have a tendency to disintegrate. wear a helmet or just dont climb it! very, very, very fun and great laughs when footholds "dissappear"!
Aaron Phillips - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/11 with my dad

take lots of micro wires, this one left me with a dry mouth by the time i got to the top
Dawlish - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Son Aaron

Ruth ND - 2nd β - 07/Jun/11 with Ev

nice route - slightly harder than it's neighbour!
evhall - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/11 with Ruth

Very Flaky rock with hard first section with only microwires for protection - scarey. The section above the ledge has a lot of loose rock but easy climbing. Split it into 2 pitches and lead both.
hutchay - Lead O/S - 31/May/11 with Alex George

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/11

36m. A little harder than LP, a little better protected, and on slightly worse rock. All in all, E2 5c seems ok.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 06/Apr/11 with Shunt

first time to fairy cave, thought this route was a cross between slate slab and north devon culm this may be to do with the very cold winter all a little snappy. Micro nuts all the way to the first ledge 20m up where all hard climbing is only 1 of them micors was any good and a bit to low down. Enjoyable technicle climbing but scary got to the ledge couldn't stop shacking. Thought E2 5C was ment to be safe. Glad to be going home without a broken ankle 1 star
Dale - Lead O/S - Mar/11 with johny

paul1234 - 2nd - 27/Jun/09 with ollie

vertigo - 2nd β - 19/Oct/08 with Mark Ryder

The shattered groove above the ledge is very loose.
MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Rich

When they say small wires they mean it!
mike kann - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Ian Savage

ian d f - Lead - 2008

The Pylon King - 2nd O/S - 14/Oct/07 with Paul Robertson

Paul Robertson - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/07 with Pylon King

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/07

upontop - 2nd - Aug/07 with Tim

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/07

Matt Tranter - 26/May/07

Quite a few loose "pancake" flakes, especially on the lower slab - significantly more than on Lumbar Puncture.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/07 with Clare

kevinknights - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/07 with John, Dan

John_Hat - Lead O/S - 2007 with Various

thrutch - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/06 with mel and chris

upontop - Lead dnf - Aug/06 with Chris

KRB - Lead O/S - 21/Jan/06 with Chris & Martin

chris sm - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Pippa Froggatt

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/03

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Motown, ben.richards

Total votes cast 34
hard E30 of 11
E30 of 11
easy E30 of 11
hard E22 of 11
E29 of 11
easy E20 of 11
hard E10 of 11
E10 of 11
easy E10 of 11
hard 6a0 of 12
6a0 of 12
easy 6a0 of 12
hard 5c0 of 12
5c10 of 12
easy 5c2 of 12
hard 5b0 of 12
5b0 of 12
easy 5b0 of 12
3 Stars0 of 11
2 Stars0 of 11
1 Star11 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent

Lead26 of 48 (54.2%)
Followed14 of 48 (29.2%)
Toproped6 of 48 (12.5%)
Unknown2 of 48 (4.2%)

'Climbed'12 of 48 (25.0%)
clean O/S26 of 48 (54.2%)
clean β2 of 48 (4.2%)
clean rpt6 of 48 (12.5%)
clean RP1 of 48 (2.1%)
dnf1 of 48 (2.1%)