Somerset > Fairy Cave Quarry >
Toblerone E1 5b

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12m. A fun little route, now downgraded. Start below and slightly left of a small tree and climb to it passing two overlaps: passing the first is the 5b crux, the rest of the climbing is considerably easier. Abseil off.
M J Crocker, N A Coe 25/Jun/2002
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This climb is in 98 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Hidden - TR rpt - 19/Aug/14

felixizzy - Solo rpt - 07/Aug/14

Worthwhile, even if just for the one technical move.
cdpuk - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Rob Scarisbrick

One move wonder
RobScarisbrick - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with cdpuk

Scuzlebut - Lead RP - 13/Jul/14 with Matt

Not much more than a boulder problem, but it is a good move.
Hooo - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Chris Sieradzki

One move route which is well protected. First overlap provides bomber gears. The move is technical rather than strenuous (5c?) and the key is to find tiny foothold. It stopped me for a while. Well done to Howard for clean lead.
Chris Sieradzki - 2nd dog - 06/Jul/14 with Hooo

Repeat climb to set up a bottom rope. Fell on the crux again
Tom Harper - Lead dog - 01/Jul/14

one move wonder
nath_casper - Lead RP - 29/Jun/14 with Felix

Felix Ottey - 2nd β - 29/Jun/14

Felix Ottey - 2nd rpt - 29/Jun/14

Tom Harper - Lead rpt - 23/Jun/14

took a couple of falls getting over the first break. finaly got over it and found it a bit of a one trick pony.
Tom Harper - Lead dog - 19/Jun/14

felixizzy - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/14 with Craig

Placed wire strop at the belay.
riddle - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Neil Watson

Neil Watson - TR - 14/Jun/14 with Riddle

ridiculous move, no idea how I stayed on. Good little problem though!
Stanners - TR O/S - 13/Jun/14 with Deepstar

samparsons - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/14 with John

jopayne1988 - 2nd dog - 30/May/14

Very tricky getting over first overlap. Couldn't find much for hands.
Deary65 - TR RP - 13/May/14

Trisha Murphy - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/14 with Larkins

J.Atkins - 2nd rpt - 10/Apr/14

Hidden - TR O/S - 09/Apr/14

Hidden - TR O/S - 09/Apr/14

lday - Lead O/S - 2014

sheelba - Lead - 23/Nov/13

riddle - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Zaheer Durrani

E1 5b is right in my opinion
jezb1 - Lead - 10/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Aug/13

Quite a tricky rock-over
petegunn - Lead - 07/Aug/13 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Aug/13

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

Overall easy for E1, but hard for 5b! Bit of one move wonder, and the move is pretty thin.
The Ivanator - Lead RP - 05/Jul/13 with Dave

Great little 5b move - very thin
davenev - 2nd O/S - 05/Jul/13 with Ivan

Shone - Lead - 18/Jun/13 with Ian Butterworth

johnl - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Adam Perrett

tough balancey rock over, loved it!
rustyfishhook - TR O/S - 25/May/13 with Simon Fowler

Trippinjester - TR O/S - 25/May/13 with Jamie Knight

On pre-placed gear.
Adam Perrett - Lead RP - 25/May/13 with John Leonard

gjh - Lead RP - 25/May/13

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Apr/13

Not exactly the best conditions (very cold and the step by the first gear was running with water) but had a bash anyway. 1 Fall from the crux overlap then lowered back down and tried again, got it clean second go. May have been the conditions but this felt very scary and VERY hard.
UnkArl - Lead RP - 01/Jan/13 with Rik

Nix33 - 2013

Hidden - TR rpt - 14/Oct/12

bradholmes - TR - 14/Oct/12 with Chris Bonner

Richezzz - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/12

Hidden - TR O/S - 20/Sep/12

Hidden - Solo β - 20/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 16/Sep/12

Short with only one hard move - a mantle onto the next slab. Solid tree belay.
Morgan P - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Ben Walters

BBEENN - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/12

Good move over the first overlap. Two stars.
JezH - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Ellie

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 19/Jul/12 with Shunt

Very soft even for E1
Pete Rigby - Lead β - 01/Jul/12 with Merlin March

kelliroberts3 - Lead β - 01/Jul/12 with merlin march, Peter Rigby

J.Atkins - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/12

Surely this isn't E2? This is HVS and just about 5b, if I went over the 1st overlap in the correct place??
SGD - Lead - 01/Apr/12 with Vicky Holmes

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 31/Mar/12 with Rob Horler

sweenyt - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with Tom M

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/11

nick hawkins - 2nd - 14/Oct/11

Hidden - TR O/S - 03/Oct/11

nick hawkins - 10/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/11

will909 - Lead RP - 03/Sep/11

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with James P

Definitely no more than 5b
jamespilgrim - 2nd O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Mark

E1 5b. Some find the hard move quite easy (perhaps those with long legs and/or good hip flexibility); some (like me) don't.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/11 with Clare

stuntsbyjon - Lead O/S - Jul/11

E1 5b
The Pylon King - TR - 04/Jun/11 with Mr Shunt

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 14/Mar/11 with Shunt

Wicked climb; I agree that it is low in the grade, but its a fun route never-the-less. The crux is the step over the first slab; the rest of it is easy.
stuntsbyjon - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10

wheelo - TR - 28/Feb/09 with cas

trevor macalonan - TR O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Sebo

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/08

Top-roped it first, then led it!
Sam Pictor - Lead RP - 10/Jun/08 with Dad

Hidden - TR - 04/Jun/08

cas smerdon - TR - 21/May/08 with Dave Brewer

ian d f - Lead - 2008

Easy, probably only E1 even if you solo it.
Richard Hall - Solo O/S - 2008

Hidden - TR - 13/Aug/07

guy xavier percival - Solo O/S - 09/Aug/07 with none

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/07

freelancer_85 - 2nd rpt - 30/Jul/07 with Raphael

Hidden - TR - 11/Jun/07

Hidden - TR - 11/Jun/07

cas smerdon - TR - 11/Jun/07 with jones, brewer, mprb007

Took a fall getting established on the second slab. Got back up and finished it off though!!
freelancer_85 - Lead dog - 22/Apr/07 with Megan

The move over the first overlap felt like 5c
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/07 with Clare

hard rockover
kevinknights - 2nd dog - 21/Apr/07 with John, Dan

John_Hat - Lead O/S - 2007 with Various

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - 2006

KRB - Solo O/S - 07/May/05

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/05 with Ian Butterworth

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2005

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 25/Jun/02 with Martin Crocker

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hooo, jopayne1988, Hidden

Total votes cast 47
hard E20 of 13
E20 of 13
easy E20 of 13
hard E10 of 13
E16 of 13
easy E16 of 13
hard HVS1 of 13
HVS0 of 13
easy HVS0 of 13
hard 5c0 of 20
5c0 of 20
easy 5c3 of 20
hard 5b5 of 20
5b11 of 20
easy 5b0 of 20
hard 5a1 of 20
5a0 of 20
easy 5a0 of 20
3 Stars2 of 14
2 Stars4 of 14
1 Star6 of 14
0 Stars2 of 14
Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 98 (5.1%)
Lead51 of 98 (52.0%)
Followed17 of 98 (17.3%)
Toproped23 of 98 (23.5%)
Unknown2 of 98 (2.0%)

'Climbed'22 of 98 (22.4%)
clean O/S43 of 98 (43.9%)
clean β4 of 98 (4.1%)
clean rpt12 of 98 (12.2%)
clean RP11 of 98 (11.2%)
dogged6 of 98 (6.1%)