The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
FA. M.J.Crocker, N.A.Coe 25/Jun/2002.
Devon and surrounding counties 50 E1 and some E2 and 1 E3 and an E4
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Andre Clarke | 4 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Small hold up high for right arm. then downward palm down for left. the bring up left leg and now for difficult bit bring up right leg. The better hold will come into play and its all over | ||
Show beta
βeta: Small hold up high for right arm. then downward palm down for left. the bring up left leg and now for difficult bit bring up right leg. The better hold will come into play and its all over |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)