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Senile Taff Corner HVS 5a

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Senile Taff Corner Direct Start >>
27m. Worthwhile, and fairly tough for the grade (formerly E1). Climb the big corner left of Withy Crack until, just below some trees, it is possible to step left onto a ledge in the arete. Climb cracks to the top.
M J Crocker 04/Sep/2002
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This climb is in 19 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

Got spooked quite quickly - should of pushed higher, got gear in and yomped to the top. Will be back!
AndThenIWasFlying - Lead dnf - 20/Sep/14 with Andy M

Not a bad route,quite pumpy and some good moves
just one more - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/14 with john smith

Very loose and vegetated to start. It started to rain halfway up so I cowered under the lip. After the lip there is a very large block that is slightly loose - pull gently!
katiep - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Callan

dan ely - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14 with tom

thomb - 2nd - 06/Jul/14

Pulled of a shoe box sized block at the start, where it's very loose. Crack was wet from seepage. Got too pumped on the crack and bailed a 2-3 meters before the trees by traversing onto Withy's crack and finishing on that.
Echna - Lead dnf - 29/Sep/13

Matt Amos - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/13

Unusually for quarry requiring arm strength
Tristypants - Lead dog - 11/Aug/13 with Helen Eden

Harder than Withy Crack and Bad to the Bone put together
Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/13 with Iggy, Peter

not a bad climb. was already properly pumped when swinging over onto the left hand slab and traversed out to the left (loose rock) instead of placing a nut (crack was covered by grass growing out of it) and stepping up. close to coming off, properly scared and pumped afterwards, but just about made it.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/13 with Iggy, Ben

Overcame the urge to thrutch up it which made it feel better than it looked. Definitely harder than BttB.
squicky - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/13 with Ben, Peter

Nice route. Good crux but crappy rock near start
Rick Ashton - 2nd O/S - 20/May/12 with Robert Drynda

A tough HVS 5a, old school. Surprisingly good route!
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/11 with Clare

Block broke off as I was trying to rock over onto it. Decided corner was a bit too friable
nick hawkins - Lead dnf - 11/Mar/11 with Jez

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/09 with James P

jamespilgrim - 2nd O/S - 26/Jul/09 with Mark

ian d f - Lead - 2008

cornishben - 2nd O/S - Jan/05 with Richard Nadin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2005

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Total votes cast 19
hard E10 of 6
E14 of 6
easy E11 of 6
hard HVS1 of 6
HVS0 of 6
easy HVS0 of 6
hard VS0 of 6
VS0 of 6
easy VS0 of 6
hard 5b0 of 9
5b0 of 9
easy 5b0 of 9
hard 5a4 of 9
5a5 of 9
easy 5a0 of 9
hard 4c0 of 9
4c0 of 9
easy 4c0 of 9
3 Stars0 of 4
2 Stars0 of 4
1 Star0 of 4
0 Stars4 of 4
Bag of .....0 of 4
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