Somerset > Fairy Cave Quarry >
Withy Crack** HVS 5a

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[Withy crack area, Fairy Cave Quarry., 2 kb]27m. Scramble up from the right to trees at the base of the slab a few feet right of the corner. Climb easily for 3m. Make harder moves up to reach runner placements where the crack starts. Climb the crack steeply to a large ash, then follow the widening crack easily up rightwards.
Cerberus Speleological Society 1992

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Photo: Withy crack area, Fairy Cave Quarry. © timstyles
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This climb is in 202 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

gjh - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14

Patrick Clissold - Lead dnf - 01/Apr/14 with Will Laws

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Mar/14

2nd ever HVS 5a. Went too far left initially which became obvious when I planted my hand in a hold full of mud and a bit of rock fell off in my hand...
cdpuk - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/13 with Alex Peka

riddle - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Zaheer Durrani

zadurrani - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13

Matt Amos - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/13

Dave Thompson - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Mark Lee

Ali.B - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13 with johnevans

Hidden - Lead β - 02/Sep/13

ali macphee - Lead dnf - 28/Aug/13

Got to the crack...couldn't do it :( Either harder than it looks, or tired after previous long routes (or definately feeling the three month gap from climbing).
Phil Layton - TR dog - 22/Aug/13 with Ms Grigri

markfromstoke - 2nd - 14/Aug/13 with Norman

Hidden - Lead - 13/Aug/13

Wendy Watthews - Lead dog - 11/Aug/13 with arandall

First HVS onsight! Awesome climb, definitely going to repeat it the next few times.
Echna - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13 with Andy

wurzelinzummerset - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/13 with Nick

stoneback - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/13 with Alan

first attempt at hardish climbing after breaking collarbone
arandall - 2nd dog - Aug/13 with Wendy Matthews

Cut back some of the trailing brambles whilst seconding.
wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 26/Jul/13 with Ivan

From the ledge to the tree is sustained good climbing, I ended up too far left and had to make a thin rightward transfer across the base of the crack that felt more like 5b.
The Ivanator - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/13 with Alan

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/13

Adrian Daniels - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/13 with John Parrott

MoWalker3 - 17/Jul/13 with Cormac

2nd second ascent
mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Mike Guttridge

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

just one more - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with john smith

Swsloper - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13

cameron_hall - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Will Benfold

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Cameron

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/13

chrisallan - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

Felix Ottey - 2nd rpt - 23/Jun/13

BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 05/Jun/13 with James Pomeroy

Been wanting to do this route for a while, so took the opportunity. Was worth it, really good. I actually found that the technical crux was higher than the description and quite pumpy, but by good gear. Took a moment to work out the move.
Poco Loco - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Bald Eagle

met a jungle half way up which was rather memorable
Georgia H - Lead - Jun/13

thomb - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Matt

Steep for FCQ! But very good
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Peter

pheotleyr - 2nd β - 18/May/13 with Ben

Brambles need snipping
markfromstoke - 07/May/13 with Adrian

Great route, I felt like I cruised it which is not bad for a chap with a ruptured pulley tendon! HVS? sure, although maybe on the soft side. Very enjoyable :-)
Felix Ottey - Lead O/S - 04/May/13

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 01/May/13 with Carl

carl_123 - Lead - 01/May/13

Luke Davies - Lead - 24/Apr/13

jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/13 with Paul Poudevigne-Durance, Jonny Forster

Hidden - Lead - 17/Apr/13

A tricky start then easy climbing up the fine upper crack.
petegunn - Lead - 08/Apr/13 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/13

morpcat - 2nd - 30/Mar/13 with wilkinscl

shakeyjakey21 - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Rob

goatboy76 - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/13 with Jake Leach

norris.dan - 2nd dog - 2013 with Sam Sloper

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/12

homing-penguin - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/12

lewiz - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Kirsten Donovan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

Doughnut - 2nd dog - 15/Sep/12 with Lewis Thompson

will7 - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/12 with techno gek

Investigated direct start to 'Senile taff corner'and bottled it!So reclimbed 'Withy crack'Thought it may feel easier than last time but tho I felt more solid its definately bang on for the grade,short but superb!
tomshanti - Lead rpt - 09/Sep/12 with Lawrence Dudley, Brad Fry

bradfry - 2nd O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Tom Shanti, Lawrence

Tom Frost - Lead - 06/Sep/12

Good fun route. Quite tricky in the lower half.
mullermn - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12

Fantastic route. Quite tough at points, and very bold on the first slab, but great climbing.
Monk - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Mullermn

JezH - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/12 with Ellie

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/12

BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Tom

Harder than it looks.
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with Becca

Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/12 with Jess Brooks

Was getting dark started up the first section but quickly realised that after climbing Wessexy I was too psychologically fu*ked to do it that day.
Quarryboy - Lead dnf - 12/Aug/12 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 11/Aug/12 with Ally, Rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

paulerussell - 2nd O/S - 09/Aug/12 with Chris Poad

J.Atkins - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/12

led, pretty easy for the grade.
alidixon - Aug/12

Very pleasant! Wrong-footed initially going into the hard bit but soon sorted myself out. Lots of gear.
Phil Murray - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/12 with Liz

Harri777 - 2nd - 30/Jun/12 with Nik

Hidden - Lead - 09/Jun/12

Quite vegitated, and all too short
clipskipper - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Sue Hazel

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 28/May/12 with Rick

will909 - 2nd rpt - 27/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 23/May/12

Made harder work than I should have done of this route and needed some practice to clean the lower portion up to the crack. Good sequence of moves up to the ash, then easy thereafter. Good climbing.
Big Lee - Lead RP - 20/May/12 with Laurence King

Started up the left hand side of the crack which felt very hard. Got into the crack with a great move rightwards and moved up with nice moves.
Rick Ashton - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Robert Drynda

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/12

First route after 3 years of no climbing - it felt tough!
JamieAyres - 2nd rpt - 06/May/12 with Nick Ingram

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/12

Bristoldave - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Dawlish

Dawlish - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Bristoldave

Loved it! Took a minute to find the crux sequence though.
Dave Ing - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11 with Bridgette

Very enjoyable crux with a lovely sequence of moves.
BB1 - 2nd - 22/Oct/11 with Dave Ing

Mr-Cowdrey - 2nd O/S - 08/Oct/11 with Gary Slade

Gary S - Lead O/S - 08/Oct/11 with Chris Cowdrey

max railing - Lead O/S - 02/Oct/11 with Oliver

joeurwin - Lead rpt - 21/Aug/11 with Heather, Neil Gay

Neil Gay - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/11 with joeurwin

positive crimps and good gear.. total cruise fest :)
benkelsey - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/11 with Chris Kelsey

RossT - Lead - 14/Aug/11 with Reg

Was too muddy and damp. Would be great in good conditions.
Pete Scott - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Jimbo

ian1234567 - Solo - 03/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead - 23/Jul/11

mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Rich Rogers

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

riddle - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/11

Chris Sansum - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/11 with Chakrit Suriyo

Ruth ND - 2nd - 24/May/11 with Ev

great climb - one of the best in fairy
evhall - Lead rpt - 24/May/11 with Ruth

will909 - Lead RP - 15/May/11

mattshort - 2nd - 15/May/11 with Alan Murray

A good quality route
Rowan Mitchell - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Christopher Jones

Christopher Jones - 2nd - 15/May/11 with Rowan Mitchell

Hidden - Lead - 29/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/11

Measured 27m.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 16/Apr/11 with Shunt

tough - the wall up to the tree seemed damp and the footholds were worryingly slippery.
hms - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/11 with kate, Jenny, Brian

Seconded Andy Hunter
john159 - 2nd - 23/Mar/11

Closer to the actual grade than a lot of the FCQ routes. Really enjoyable. A nice after work session with the two taffs. Ab'd off in the dark.
Andyh83 - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/11 with Taff W

J.Atkins - 2nd O/S - 13/Mar/11

Great Climb once you've cleard the crux easy hand jamming all the way up. Crux is right near the begining. One Good/marginal piece just before the crux in a horixontal crack.
TomOsterwold - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/11 with Jack Atkins

nick hawkins - 2nd - 11/Mar/11 with Jez

Steep middle section for Fairy Cave, lots of gear.
jezb1 - Lead O/S - 11/Mar/11

djromberg - 2011

HVS 5a- 40m Second Challenging mid section- completed after slight fall onto rope. Cold hands Avon and Cheddar
Matt Smyth - 2nd RP - 16/Oct/10 with Olly Pirkis

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Oct/10

Gibbo - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Tom Gibbison

arandall - 2nd O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Isaac Whitcombe

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with liv_the_div

Steve Woollard - Lead - 16/Sep/10 with Steve Price

Great route with a nice technical few moves in the mid section
davenev - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with luke

Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/10 with davenev

Nice route, with really only a small section at HVS. There is new abseil tat and ring at the top to the right so thanks to the philanthropist for supplying that (Ian?)
James Moyle - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/10 with Richard Burton

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/10 with Clare

Well protected but quite sustained until you get to the tree then its a romp. Great route.
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Nick

Good route but ledge at start of hard section is currently covered in brambles which is a bit of a mare - really needs a good garden following the ban. Some sustained climbing. First limestone slab for a long time - got a bit of disco leg.
Si dH - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/10 with Jim R

Fell a couple of times trying to retrieve gear on the crux
SharonC1604 - 2nd - 25/Jul/10

Nick F Smith - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Debbie Bowers

2 or 3 tricky moves but very pleasant. Again dries quickly.
darren hudson - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/10 with David Ford

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/09 with Pete Chalis

luke13 - 2nd - 11/Jun/09 with Dec

deklan - Lead - 11/Jun/09 with luke

upontop - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/09 with Julie

DorsetGareth - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Richard Nadin

Mark Salter - Lead O/S - 10/May/09 with Gareth Lewis

Dr Caterpillar - 2nd O/S - 25/Apr/09 with Alex Malins

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/09

jon bradley - 2nd rpt - 20/Mar/09

timstyles - 2nd β - 20/Mar/09 with Jon Bradley

lemon - 01/Mar/09 with Martin Davies

Martin Davies - 2nd O/S - 01/Mar/09 with Ed Lemon

My second outdoor climb. The rock was really wet and slippery so I was pretty pleased with the result!
Andyleslie - TR RP - 08/Nov/08 with Bruce Blagdon

Hidden - Lead dog - 11/Oct/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Sep/08

CosmosKey - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Rick & Frank

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Lee

Tough for HVS
SC - 2nd β - 15/Jul/08 with mike kann

timharrison - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Matt Perks

richardr - Lead O/S - Jun/08

Caspar - Lead O/S - 18/May/08 with Simon Reynolds

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 04/May/08

jelaby - Lead O/S - 04/May/08 with Adam Young

jon bradley - 2nd rpt - 27/Apr/08 with Huw Howells

babymoac - Lead - 27/Apr/08 with Paul Bolton

Ant Man Bee - 2nd - 27/Apr/08 with Andy Buckley

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/08 with anna barnes

petegunn - Lead - 2008

ian d f - Lead - 2008

Solid HVS with some gear that has to be placed blind
maresia - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/07 with Iain Afshar

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 14/Sep/07 with Mark

JPGR - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Andy

I had to rescue Jason as he'd bitten off a little more than he could chew. Lovely crack but the crux was a little too short, maybe 1 or 2 finger kams and it was over.
Anthony Allsopp - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/07 with DAve and Jason (HMC)

AlexD - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/07 with Joe

joeurwin - 2nd β - 05/Aug/07 with alex

Hidden - Lead dnf - 24/Jul/07

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/Jul/07

JimR - Lead - Jul/07 with AJM

Shone - Lead - 06/Jun/07 with Ian Butterworth

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 22/May/07 with Clare, Mike L, Val

Fat Tim - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/07

CharlieC - 2nd dog - 17/Feb/07 with Jez

gringoloco - 2nd - 2007 with Colin Charles

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/06

My first HVS lead!!
KarlH - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/06 with Neil Williams

endless winter - 2nd - 02/Jul/06 with BenP

mmmm - crux is approx 1/3rd into route, up a very vertical face with a thin crack and small - 'hidden' foot holds. Fell 2/3 way up this part of the route, top runner pulled out (I think it was too small and pulled out the botton of the crack) fell approx 3m onto ledge, next bit of pro held. Bruising to lower back and shoulder. - Found my limit for now, glad I was wearing a helmet! Climbing on double ropes. Did not second after Andy M completed route (1 fall, his pro held!) - he had a hell of a time trying to retreive the pro during the absail with the ab-point off to the left of the slab
Tempest - Lead dnf - 01/Jul/06 with AndyM

adamscottthomas - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/06 with Mike Maben

Paul Robertson - 2nd O/S - 08/Jun/06 with Ben Friedland

Bux - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Rupert Bassadone

chris sm - Lead O/S - 14/May/06 with Richard Hurley

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 14/May/06

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 11/May/06 with Clare

mike kann - Lead O/S - 2006 with Steve Corner (SC)

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - 2006

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 2006 with Mick Cooke

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Aug/05

upontop - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Trevor

MikeC59 - Lead - 18/Jun/05

JamieAyres - 2nd O/S - 29/May/05 with Nick Ingram

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

tom.e - Lead dnf - Nov/04 with Sam Lillywhite

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Francis Lickerish

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/02

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
kenneM, The_flying_climber, madguernseyboy, JamesRich, ben.richards, nick hawkins, zombie_pat, Hidden, Hidden

Total votes cast 163
hard E10 of 55
E10 of 55
easy E11 of 55
hard HVS27 of 55
HVS21 of 55
easy HVS4 of 55
hard VS1 of 55
VS1 of 55
easy VS0 of 55
hard 5b0 of 54
5b0 of 54
easy 5b4 of 54
hard 5a24 of 54
5a25 of 54
easy 5a0 of 54
hard 4c1 of 54
4c0 of 54
easy 4c0 of 54
3 Stars2 of 54
2 Stars41 of 54
1 Star8 of 54
0 Stars0 of 54
Bag of .....3 of 54
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 202 (0.5%)
Lead119 of 202 (58.9%)
Followed73 of 202 (36.1%)
Toproped3 of 202 (1.5%)
Alt Leads1 of 202 (0.5%)
Unknown5 of 202 (2.5%)

'Climbed'49 of 202 (24.3%)
clean O/S113 of 202 (55.9%)
clean β5 of 202 (2.5%)
clean rpt16 of 202 (7.9%)
clean RP4 of 202 (2.0%)
dogged9 of 202 (4.5%)
dnf6 of 202 (3.0%)