27m. Scramble up from the right to trees at the base of the slab a few feet right of the corner. Climb easily for 3m. Make harder moves up to reach runner placements where the crack starts. Climb the crack steeply to a large ash, then follow the widening crack easily up rightwards.

Cerberus Speleological Society 1992

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

petecallaghan 22/Nov 2nd O/S
with Pete Belfield
Matt1234 25/Oct Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Oct 2nd O/S
Radical-G 04/Oct Lead O/S
Wendy Watthews 03/Oct Lead rpt
with Tom FP
Hidden 03/Oct 2nd rpt
Rob Morgan 26/Sep Lead
with Win-yei
Win-yei 26/Sep 2nd
with Rob
HardmanJ 20/Sep 2nd O/S

Slipped on the crux but managed to hold myself before weighting the rope, don't do without bone dry shoes

with c jepps
c jepps 20/Sep Lead O/S
WillAndrew 19/Sep Lead O/S
with Tom N
ali.scott 19/Sep Lead O/S
with Soph
mick1jones 18/Aug Lead β
with Ondrej, Jason
miriamclaire 17/Aug Lead dog

I got scared when it got thin

Matt Smith 12/Aug Lead O/S

Best route I've done in FCQ, felt easy for grade. Finger jams are sinkers !!

Kemics 03/Aug 2nd O/S

Just when you think it gets hard...it gets easier! Great climb

with Mel
Robin Woodward 28/Jul Lead O/S

Nice moves up the headwall. Ended up crimping the face more often than using the crack.

JCookie 25/Jul 2nd

Sustained, delicate slab and strenuous on the calves. One slip unfortunately, definitely the top of my ability. Nice lead, Steve.

with Steve Grey, Richard Plater
RiPomc 25/Jul 2nd

A bit of rope assistance.

with Steve Grey
Hidden 18/Jul -
Sophie Nunn 18/Jul Lead O/S
with Scott
Hidden 11/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul Lead O/S
trevor macalonan 10/Jul 2nd O/S
with Richy
Sam4242 30/Jun Lead O/S
stalbot93 25/Jun Lead O/S
Keelan McNulty 25/Jun 2nd O/S

The previous comment does not exaggerate, the foot pump is crippling.....

Hidden 23/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Jun Lead
Monkey_Alan 14/Jun Lead O/S

Crux section straightforward if you're used to climbing steep stuff.

Trace 14/Jun 2nd
lukerathmell 10/Jun 2nd
with emma holland, Carl Stubbs
carl_123 10/Jun 2nd rpt
Hidden 10/Jun Lead
Hidden 07/Jun 2nd
mes32 07/Jun Lead O/S

So much foot pump! Argh!

with Lina, Dave
91dave 07/Jun 2nd O/S
jhobbs 30/May Lead

Stiff crux, got pretty pumped!

Ejminee 29/May 2nd
LovelyMrTom 28/May Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 21/May 2nd rpt
with Max Coney
Legs 21/May Lead rpt
with Steve
emdawes 12/May 2nd
Larey 12/May Lead O/S
with Emily dawes
Hidden 11/May 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/May Lead rpt
Hidden 09/May Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 09/May 2nd
Mayaculpa 04/May TR
with Mike Rotraxion
Bob Peters ?/May Lead O/S
Ollie Wickham 30/Apr Lead dog

First HVS for a while. Not clean but still completed.

with Richard Mackie
Ollie Wickham 22/Apr 2nd O/S
with Richard Mackie
Paul Baller 15/Apr Lead O/S

Nice route. Short 5a section, the rest is fairly straight forward.

petegunn 11/Apr 2nd
with Davina
Hidden 11/Apr Lead rpt
climbEdclimb 09/Apr 2nd O/S
with Cameron Ree
davidclare 07/Apr Lead O/S
with Tris Vye
Hidden 07/Apr 2nd
madguernseyboy 06/Apr Lead O/S
Wildstyle 06/Apr 2nd O/S
Slick 26/Oct/14 2nd
Egons Issy 26/Oct/14 2nd
Hidden 23/Oct/14 2nd O/S
BenFitzG 28/Sep/14 Lead
with James Orde Powlett
steve_gibbs 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with John Harris, Jamie Roberts
Hidden 21/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Echna 21/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Rich
Bernie L 21/Sep/14 Lead O/S

First HVS lead. Not much gear leaving the ledge but bomber gear in the crack. Sustained

JulianB 21/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Stanners 16/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Mega good

petegruf 07/Sep/14 Lead
with charles m
cem 06/Sep/14 2nd
with Peter Murphy
Hidden 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/Aug/14 2nd
zcsharp 17/Aug/14 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 17/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Deary65 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Easy up to bramble ledge. Very steep and pumpy piece of wall afterwards. More pleasurable up the crack thereafter.

with Jon, Sam
Mike Kiss 07/Aug/14 Lead

Pretty pumpy for a slab!

with Old man Andy
wilf 06/Aug/14 Lead O/S

took over from tom following lead fall. crux well protected but technically serious challenge. took a slide x 1. comes together when you spot foot placements.

with Tom
georgeevans88 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

A really good route. Quite hard for HVS but the gear is all there. Just in time before the heavens opened

with Caitlin
Stuart William 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Felt tougher than I expected for HVS although I think that was more because I've been nursing injuries the last couple months.

Rob Morgan 27/Jul/14 2nd
sjscammell 23/Jul/14 Lead

lots of fun ... once you start on the real climbing.

sheelba 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Chris Sieradzki 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

My best experience at Fairy Cave so far. Hard 5a/easy 5b, bit of runouts but with bomber gear.

with Hooo
Hooo 06/Jul/14 2nd
marsden.d.paul 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Dave AMC
Pintsize 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd
will_benfold 22/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Very hard for HVS, soft E1?

with Jana
felixizzy 16/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Craig
Hidden 12/Jun/14 Lead O/S
SGD 08/Jun/14 Lead
steve-grigg 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
BenFitzG 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with James Orde Powlett
Tom F Harding 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Needs some gardening to be done!

Steve Bartle 31/May/14 2nd O/S
jopayne1988 30/May/14 Lead O/S

Seem quite muddy at the moment, and take some secateurs! There's a bramble bush in the middle of the route before the crack. Couldn't go through or remove it so had to go around to the left and work my way up to the crack from there - tricky.

Nevil 19/May/14 Lead
with Vince
Vincej 19/May/14 2nd
with Nevil
felixizzy 10/May/14 Lead O/S
tskelhon ?/May/14 Lead O/S
clmacdonald ?/May/14 2nd
bpmclimb 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Kirsten
kirsten 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Brian
gjh 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Patrick Clissold 01/Apr/14 Lead dnf
with Will Laws
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd
cdpuk 05/Oct/13 Lead O/S

2nd ever HVS 5a. Went too far left initially which became obvious when I planted my hand in a hold full of mud and a bit of rock fell off in my hand...

with Alex Peka
riddle 14/Sep/13 2nd O/S
zadurrani 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Matt Amos 11/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Dave Thompson 05/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Mark Lee
Ali.B 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with johnevans
Hidden 02/Sep/13 Lead β
ali macphee 28/Aug/13 Lead dnf
Tristypants 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Helen Eden
Phil Layton 22/Aug/13 TR dog

Got to the crack...couldn't do it :( Either harder than it looks, or tired after previous long routes (or definately feeling the three month gap from climbing).

with Ms Grigri
markfromstoke 14/Aug/13 2nd
with Norman
Norman_P_W 13/Aug/13 Lead
Wendy Watthews 11/Aug/13 Lead dog
Echna 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S

First HVS onsight! Awesome climb, definitely going to repeat it the next few times.

with Andy
wurzelinzummerset 09/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Nick
stoneback 09/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with Alan
arandall ?/Aug/13 2nd dog

first attempt at hardish climbing after breaking collarbone

wurzelinzummerset 26/Jul/13 2nd

Cut back some of the trailing brambles whilst seconding.

with Ivan
The Ivanator 26/Jul/13 Lead O/S

From the ledge to the tree is sustained good climbing, I ended up too far left and had to make a thin rightward transfer across the base of the crack that felt more like 5b.

with Alan
Hidden 24/Jul/13 Lead
Adrian Daniels 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with John Parrott
MoWalker3 17/Jul/13 -
with Cormac
mick1jones 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S

2nd second ascent

with Mike Guttridge
Ian JL 13/Jul/13 Lead O/S
just one more 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with john smith
Swsloper 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
cameron_hall 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
will_benfold 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Cameron
Hidden 30/Jun/13 2nd
chrisallan 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Felix Ottey 23/Jun/13 2nd rpt
BALD EAGLE 05/Jun/13 2nd
with James Pomeroy
Poco Loco 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Been wanting to do this route for a while, so took the opportunity. Was worth it, really good. I actually found that the technical crux was higher than the description and quite pumpy, but by good gear. Took a moment to work out the move.

Georgia H ?/Jun/13 Lead

met a jungle half way up which was rather memorable

tcoombe1 ?/Jun/13 Lead
thomb 18/May/13 Lead O/S
with Matt
Cheese Monkey 18/May/13 Lead O/S

Steep for FCQ! But very good

with Peter
pheotleyr 18/May/13 2nd β
with Ben
markfromstoke 07/May/13 -

Brambles need snipping

with Adrian
Felix Ottey 04/May/13 Lead O/S

Great route, I felt like I cruised it which is not bad for a chap with a ruptured pulley tendon! HVS? sure, although maybe on the soft side. Very enjoyable :-)

wurzelinzummerset 01/May/13 2nd
with Carl
carl_123 01/May/13 Lead
Luke Davies 24/Apr/13 Lead
jon_ridley 17/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Apr/13 Lead
petegunn 08/Apr/13 Lead

A tricky start then easy climbing up the fine upper crack.

with Davina
Hidden 08/Apr/13 2nd O/S
morpcat 30/Mar/13 2nd
shakeyjakey21 30/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
with Rob
goatboy76 30/Mar/13 Lead O/S
wilkinscl 30/Mar/13 Lead
norris.dan ??/2013 2nd dog
Hidden 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
homing-penguin 19/Sep/12 2nd O/S
lewiz 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Doughnut 15/Sep/12 2nd dog
Hidden 13/Sep/12 Lead O/S
tomshanti 09/Sep/12 Lead rpt

Investigated direct start to 'Senile taff corner'and bottled it!So reclimbed 'Withy crack'Thought it may feel easier than last time but tho I felt more solid its definately bang on for the grade,short but superb!

bradfry 09/Sep/12 2nd O/S
alastairbegley 08/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Jackson
Tom Frost 06/Sep/12 Lead
Nevil 28/Aug/12 Lead
with Mike
Hidden 28/Aug/12 2nd
mullermn 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Good fun route. Quite tricky in the lower half.

Monk 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Fantastic route. Quite tough at points, and very bold on the first slab, but great climbing.

Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
BeccaSnowden 19/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Tom
thomasadixon 19/Aug/12 2nd O/S

Harder than it looks.

with Becca
Greg Pittam 18/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Jess Brooks
Quarryboy 12/Aug/12 Lead dnf

Was getting dark started up the first section but quickly realised that after climbing Wessexy I was too psychologically fu*ked to do it that day.

wurzelinzummerset 11/Aug/12 2nd
with Ally, Rob
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
paulerussell 09/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with Chris Poad
J.Atkins 03/Aug/12 Lead O/S
alidixon ?/Aug/12 -

led, pretty easy for the grade.

Phil Murray 25/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Very pleasant! Wrong-footed initially going into the hard bit but soon sorted myself out. Lots of gear.

with Liz
Harri777 30/Jun/12 2nd
with Nik
Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead
clipskipper 09/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Quite vegitated, and all too short

with Sue Hazel
bpmclimb 28/May/12 Lead rpt
with Rick
will909 27/May/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 23/May/12 2nd
Big Lee 20/May/12 Lead G/U

Made harder work than I should have done of this route and needed some practice to clean the lower portion up to the crack. Good sequence of moves up to the ash, then easy thereafter. Good climbing.

Rick Ashton 20/May/12 Lead O/S

Started up the left hand side of the crack which felt very hard. Got into the crack with a great move rightwards and moved up with nice moves.

with Robert Drynda
Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
JamieAyres 06/May/12 2nd rpt

First route after 3 years of no climbing - it felt tough!

Hidden 16/Apr/12 2nd O/S
Bristoldave 29/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Dawlish
Dawlish 29/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Dave Ing 22/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Loved it! Took a minute to find the crux sequence though.

BB1 22/Oct/11 2nd

Very enjoyable crux with a lovely sequence of moves.

with Dave Ing
Hidden 08/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Gary S 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
joeurwin 21/Aug/11 Lead rpt
with Heather, Neil Gay
Neil Gay 21/Aug/11 2nd O/S
benkelsey 19/Aug/11 Lead O/S

positive crimps and good gear.. total cruise fest :)

with Chris Kelsey
RossT 14/Aug/11 Lead
with Reg
Pete Scott 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Was too muddy and damp. Would be great in good conditions.

with Jimbo
ian1234567 03/Aug/11 Solo
Hidden 23/Jul/11 Lead
mick1jones 10/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with Rich Rogers
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
riddle 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Yasmina
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd
Chris Sansum 03/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Ruth ND 24/May/11 2nd
with Ev
Hidden 24/May/11 Lead rpt
will909 15/May/11 Lead RP
mattshort 15/May/11 2nd
Rowan Mitchell 15/May/11 Lead O/S

A good quality route

Christopher Jones 15/May/11 2nd
Hidden 29/Apr/11 Lead
Hidden 26/Apr/11 2nd
bpmclimb 16/Apr/11 TR rpt

Measured 27m.

with Shunt
Hidden 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S
john159 23/Mar/11 2nd

Seconded Andy Hunter

Hidden 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
J.Atkins 13/Mar/11 2nd O/S
TomOsterwold 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Great Climb once you've cleard the crux easy hand jamming all the way up. Crux is right near the begining. One Good/marginal piece just before the crux in a horixontal crack.

nick hawkins 11/Mar/11 2nd
with Jez
jezb1 11/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Steep middle section for Fairy Cave, lots of gear.

djromberg ??/2011 -
Matt Smyth 16/Oct/10 2nd RP

HVS 5a- 40m Second Challenging mid section- completed after slight fall onto rope. Cold hands Avon and Cheddar

Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Gibbo 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Tom Gibbison
arandall 26/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Isaac Whitcombe
fatbuoybazza 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Sep/10 Lead
davenev 04/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Great route with a nice technical few moves in the mid section

with luke
Mr Tickle 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with davenev
James Moyle 01/Sep/10 2nd O/S

Nice route, with really only a small section at HVS. There is new abseil tat and ring at the top to the right so thanks to the philanthropist for supplying that (Ian?)

with Richard Burton
bpmclimb 09/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Didymus 03/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Well protected but quite sustained until you get to the tree then its a romp. Great route.

with Nick
Si dH 27/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Good route but ledge at start of hard section is currently covered in brambles which is a bit of a mare - really needs a good garden following the ban. Some sustained climbing. First limestone slab for a long time - got a bit of disco leg.

with Jim R
SharonC1604 25/Jul/10 2nd

Fell a couple of times trying to retrieve gear on the crux

Nick F Smith 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Debbie Bowers
darren hudson 18/Jul/10 2nd O/S

2 or 3 tricky moves but very pleasant. Again dries quickly.

with David Ford
tobydunford 15/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Pete Chalis
luke13 11/Jun/09 2nd
with Dec
deklan 11/Jun/09 Lead
with luke
upontop 01/Jun/09 Lead rpt
with Julie
DorsetGareth 30/May/09 Lead O/S
with Richard Nadin
Mark Salter 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Dr Caterpillar 25/Apr/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Apr/09 Lead O/S
jon bradley 20/Mar/09 2nd rpt
timstyles 20/Mar/09 2nd β
lemon 01/Mar/09 -
with Martin Davies
Martin Davies 01/Mar/09 2nd O/S
Andyleslie 08/Nov/08 TR RP

My second outdoor climb. The rock was really wet and slippery so I was pretty pleased with the result!

with Bruce Blagdon
Hidden 11/Oct/08 Lead dog
Hidden 21/Sep/08 2nd O/S
CosmosKey 21/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Rick & Frank
MarkRyder 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Lee
SC 15/Jul/08 2nd β

Tough for HVS

timharrison 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/08 2nd dog
jelaby 04/May/08 Lead O/S
with Adam Young
jon bradley 27/Apr/08 2nd rpt
with Huw Howells
babymoac 27/Apr/08 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/08 2nd
dan gibson 25/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with anna barnes
petegunn ??/2008 Lead
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
maresia 27/Sep/07 2nd O/S

Solid HVS with some gear that has to be placed blind

bpmclimb 14/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Mark
JPGR 26/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Andy
Anthony Allsopp 19/Aug/07 Lead O/S

I had to rescue Jason as he'd bitten off a little more than he could chew. Lovely crack but the crux was a little too short, maybe 1 or 2 finger kams and it was over.

with DAve and Jason (HMC)
AlexD 05/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Joe
joeurwin 05/Aug/07 2nd β
with alex
Hidden 24/Jul/07 Lead dnf
Hidden 24/Jul/07 2nd dog
JimR ?/Jul/07 Lead
with AJM
Shone 06/Jun/07 Lead
with Ian Butterworth
bpmclimb 22/May/07 Lead rpt
with Clare, Mike L, Val
Fat Tim 07/Apr/07 Lead O/S
CharlieC 17/Feb/07 2nd dog
with Jez
gringoloco ??/2007 2nd
with Colin Charles
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead O/S
KarlH 09/Aug/06 Lead O/S

My first HVS lead!!

with Neil Williams
endless winter 02/Jul/06 2nd
with BenP
Tempest 01/Jul/06 Lead dnf

mmmm - crux is approx 1/3rd into route, up a very vertical face with a thin crack and small - 'hidden' foot holds. Fell 2/3 way up this part of the route, top runner pulled out (I think it was too small and pulled out the botton of the crack) fell approx 3m onto ledge, next bit of pro held. Bruising to lower back and shoulder. - Found my limit for now, glad I was wearing a helmet! Climbing on double ropes. Did not second after Andy M completed route (1 fall, his pro held!) - he had a hell of a time trying to retreive the pro during the absail with the ab-point off to the left of the slab

with AndyM
adamscottthomas 09/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Mike Maben
Paul Robertson 08/Jun/06 2nd O/S
with Ben Friedland
Bux ?/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Rupert Bassadone
chris sm 14/May/06 Lead O/S
with Richard Hurley
Hidden 14/May/06 2nd rpt
bpmclimb 11/May/06 Lead O/S
with Clare
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead O/S
with Mick Cooke
Hidden ?/Aug/05 2nd O/S
upontop ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Trevor
just one more 07/Jul/05 Lead
with pete g
MikeC59 18/Jun/05 Lead
JamieAyres 29/May/05 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
tom.e ?/Nov/04 Lead dnf
with Sam Lillywhite
Urgles ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Francis Lickerish
just one more 28/May/04 Lead
with tim b
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
cornishben ?/Jan/02 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
petecallaghan, Hidden, Hidden, catty_9, RobScarisbrick, Hidden, Louvet, Fatclimber, Hooo, Tom Harper, Neil Watson, kenneM, madguernseyboy, JamesRich, ben.richards, nick hawkins, Hidden, Hidden
High E1
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Votes cast 84
High 5b
Mid 5b
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Mid 4c
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Votes cast 81
Votes cast 79
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set