Bad to the Bone* E1 5b
30m. A good climb, which is still clinging on to its E1 status, although absolutely at the bottom end. Start at the cave entrance 10m right of the Withy Crack belay. Move up and step left; then gain the slab. Climb the slab to the third of 3 saplings, where the wall steepens. Move leftwards up a thin crack to gain pockets. Nice technical moves on the wall above lead to the exit of Withy crack.
M Raine, M Hammill 30/Mar/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20, Bristol 1st E1s.

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This climb is in 179 logbooks, and on 12 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/15

WillAndrew - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/15 with Tom N

WillAndrew - 2nd rpt - 19/Sep/15 with Ali

ali.scott - Lead dog - 19/Sep/15 with Soph

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/15

miriamclaire - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/15

I think this merits E1. It has short lived difficulties, but they are definitely 5b and pretty thin moves.
Kemics - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/15 with Mel

A few rests on the way.
RiPomc - 2nd - 25/Jul/15 with Steve Grey

Paul Baller - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/15 with matt stevens

Mayaculpa - 2nd - 18/Jul/15 with Michael H

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/15

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/15

felixizzy - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/15 with Soph

lukerathmell - Lead rpt - 30/Jun/15 with George

Felt harder than the first time. Foot placements under bomber gear are getting polished.
Felix Ottey - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/15

Larey - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/15 with Paul

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Jun/15

felixizzy - TR rpt - 18/Jun/15 with shunt

Took a few tries to work out which way to go at the crux.
Monkey_Alan - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/15 with Trace Sutton

Trace - 2nd - 14/Jun/15 with Monkey_Alan

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/15

lukerathmell - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/15 with emma holland, Carl Stubbs

carl_123 - 2nd O/S - 10/Jun/15

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead - 07/Jun/15

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/15

mes32 - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Lina, Dave

Hidden - 2nd - 07/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/15

91dave - 2nd O/S - 07/Jun/15 with Mary Slingo, Lina Arthur

markfromstoke - Lead - 06/Jun/15 with Duncan

Ejminee - 2nd - 29/May/15 with LovelyMrTom, Legs

First E1! Hope it doesn't get downgraded any time soon
LovelyMrTom - Lead O/S - 28/May/15 with Max Coney, Emma Mines

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 23/May/15

steve_gibbs - 2nd rpt - 21/May/15 with Max Coney

Soft E1. Over after the rocking up onto the jug, but a fun move. Lead it after Withy crack. Not much harder.
Legs - Lead O/S - 21/May/15 with Steve

Bob Peters - Lead O/S - May/15

Could I have lead this?
Ollie Wickham - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/15 with Richard Mackie

Pete Rigby - Lead rpt - 2015 with Kelli Roberts

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 12/Oct/14 with Ted Lister

Wasn't feeling up to the initial overhang so bypassed this. To do properly another day.
Rob Morgan - 2nd dog - 05/Oct/14

Steve Bartle - Lead rpt - 05/Oct/14 with Rob Morgan

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with John Harris, Jamie Roberts

JulianB - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/14 with Bernhard Lozowski, Sebastian Fisher-Greene

First E1 (but on second)
callans - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Katie Preston

katiep - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Callan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/14

steve-grigg - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14 with David Maddison

maddy92 - 2nd O/S - 06/Sep/14 with steve-grigg

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/14

Hidden - Lead - 19/Aug/14

zcsharp - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/14 with Steve Gibbs

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/14 with Jamie Roberts

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14

Hardest of the day. Started raining as I got to the top.
cdpuk - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Rob Scarisbrick

Slipped in the rain
RobScarisbrick - 2nd dog - 03/Aug/14 with cdpuk

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/14

Tom F Harding - Lead RP - 27/Jul/14 with Steve Bartle

Steve Bartle - 2nd - 27/Jul/14 with Tom F Harding

Nice moves and a good route. A couple of the holds in the upper section are a tad dirty but it's easy ground by that point.
spenser - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Andrew Rembrandt

sheelba - 2nd - 12/Jul/14

Harder then Withy Crack.
Tom F Harding - Lead dog - 12/Jul/14 with Sam Collins

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/14

Wendy - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Tom Ball

Nice route but I don't think it is E1 5b. It's easier than Withy Crack next door.
Chris Sieradzki - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Hooo

Very soft for E1. Rushed up it in a hurry as we had to leave, and it was no problem. Hardest bit was the rope drag from the first bit of gear above the cave, so at the ledge I untied and continued on one rope.
Hooo - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Chris Sieradzki

Pintsize - Lead - 22/Jun/14 with Will Benfold

will_benfold - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Sarah Woodrow

HVS 5a. Definitely easier than Withy Crack.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Jana

Phoebus - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with James Orde Powlett

Hidden - Lead - 19/May/14

Vincej - 2nd - 19/May/14 with Nevil

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14

felixizzy - Lead β - 05/May/14

tskelhon - 2nd O/S - May/14 with Charlotte

clmacdonald - Lead - May/14 with tskelhon

I still suspect this may be HVS, taken in context with the grades of e.g. Withy Crack, Strictly Ballroom and Smell the Glove.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/14 with Kirsten

kirsten - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with Brian

gjh - 2nd β - 18/Apr/14

James Jackson - 2014

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/13

Tristypants - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Helen Eden

marsden.d.paul - 2nd - 18/Aug/13 with Patrick Dobbs

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13

A little damp and slippery at the start but fine once on the upper wall, a good route well worth doing
petegunn - Lead - 02/Aug/13 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/13

Dissapointingly easy!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/13 with Iggy, Peter

Felt easier than and was not as good as Withy Crack. Still really nice though.
pheotleyr - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/13 with Iggy, Ben

squicky - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/13 with Ben, Peter

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/13

MoWalker3 - 24/Jul/13 with Cormac

mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Mike Guttridge

Felix Ottey - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

jon bradley - 2nd rpt - 12/Jul/13 with Tim Styles

Good holds for the steep moves and good gear generally. Felt easier than Withy crack.
timstyles - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Jon Bradley

just one more - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with john smith

TimPerkin - Lead - 02/Jun/13 with Tom Perkin

Decent gear for this crag, not using your friend 1 low down when it is needed for the high crux would be wise, nice gift at the grade
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Liam

tolly_60 - 2nd β - 01/Jun/13

Georgia H - 2nd - Jun/13

tcoombe1 - Lead - Jun/13

markfromstoke - 22/May/13 with Steve N

Steve27 - 2nd - 18/May/13 with Ian Handscomb

beth_may - 2nd - 28/Apr/13 with Oli Mentz

First E1 (more like E0.5)
Chazwoz - Lead β - 27/Apr/13 with Merlin March

clams - Lead - Apr/13 with Chaz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/13

LukeyG - Lead - 19/Sep/12

scoffing on the blackberries half way up :-)
kirsten - 2nd - 15/Sep/12 with Mick

alastairbegley - Lead - 08/Sep/12 with Jackson

Tom Frost - 2nd - 06/Sep/12

Worthwhile - the easiest E1 I've done, about the same as Withy crack really. Great moves & good gear :)
Phil Murray - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/12 with Liz

Gibbo - 2nd - 17/Jun/12 with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/12

Crux is the central wall. Thin and quite technical, and plenty of fun. Again all too short
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Sue Hazel

riddle - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Adam Ryan

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 31/May/12 with Debbie

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 28/May/12 with Rick

Had a bit of gear beta (take plenty of cams and slings), but no tips on the moves. My first E1 lead. A good climb, but soft for the grade, it didn't feel like I had just broken a new lead grade as I've climbed harder HVSes, but happy to be able to call myself an extreme leader! Made a right meal of abbing off and getting the gear - the ab point is well off to the left and I was penduluming around all over the shop!
The Ivanator - Lead O/S - 28/May/12 with Jez

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 27/May/12 with Norman Wright

Nice climb, pretty easy and decent protection.
Rick Ashton - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Robert Drynda

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Apr/12

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/12

climbingchica - 2nd - 16/Oct/11

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/11 with Clare

riddle - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11

BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 21/May/11 with David Martinez Majo, Richard Williams

Measured 30m. Start at cave entrance, rather than above it. From third sapling, step up and follow left-rising crack to pockets.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 16/Apr/11 with Shunt

would have felt hvs if holds not filled with wet mud. Good route though.
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/11 with Joe Urwin

joeurwin - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/11 with al franks

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with jon

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with liv_the_div

Jonny M - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Oli Gray

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10

There really are some great moves on this climb.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/10 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Lisa Paling

just one more - Lead - 31/May/09 with Max B

Started about a third of the way up, having abbed off Withy Crack.
DorsetGareth - 2nd O/S - 30/May/09 with Richard Nadin

muddy shoe slipped off small foothold just above tree but lowered to tree and climbed top cleanly. Annoyed about fall though! Lovely route.
joeurwin - 2nd dog - 03/May/09 with alex & Dan Bruniges

AlexD - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with joeurwin

First time in Fairy cave, so maybe this is normal, but thought the rock quality on this route was fairly poor.
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/09 with Ed

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09

Quirina - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Neil Larsen

mol - 2nd - 05/Apr/09 with Jesse

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 05/Apr/09 with Molly Thompson

vertigo - 2nd β - 19/Oct/08 with Mark Ryder

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Rich

First E1 lead.
SC - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with mike kann

richardr - Lead O/S - Jun/08

jon bradley - Lead rpt - 27/Apr/08 with Huw Howells

ian d f - Lead - 2008

chris sm - 2nd rpt - 11/Nov/07 with Ian Butterworth

Second with Mike Kann. Could not say I climbed all of it as Iain kept rope tight on hard part...which was good when I slipped off! Started out in failing light and finished ab in darkness.
cas smerdon - 2nd - 04/Oct/07 with Iain Shone

Shone - Lead - 04/Oct/07 with Mike Kann & Cas

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 14/Sep/07 with Mark

Urgles - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/07 with Brian

My first E1 lead and what a buzz!
Anthony Allsopp - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/07 with DAve and Jason (HMC)

deklan - Lead - Aug/07

JimR - 2nd - Jul/07 with AJM

Nice moves over the overlap, and where the slab steepens. Pulled off a sidepull at one point, and nearly came off, and my feet came off at one point but I managed to hang on.
freelancer_85 - Lead O/S - 02/May/07 with Megan

(Dry this time). A nice climb with some good moves where the slab steepens above the third sapling
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 22/Apr/07 with Clare

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/06 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Jun/06

Bux - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Rupert Bassadone

maresia - 2nd dog - 11/Feb/06 with Mike Kann

beardy mike - Lead O/S - 2006 with Steve Corner (SC)

chris sm - 2nd - Aug/05 with Haggis Harris

KRB - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/05 with Chris Bridges

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

just one more - Lead - 28/May/04 with tim b

Hidden - Lead - 2004

Nigel Coe - Lead - 12/Jul/03 with Norman Wright

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/03 with Gavin Edwards

Paz - Lead - Jul/02 with SN

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Juliette Edwards, Fatclimber, Hooo, Tom Harper, jopayne1988, kenneM, JamesRich, wurzelinzummerset, ben.richards, nick hawkins, Dr Caterpillar

Total votes cast 157
hard E20 of 57
E20 of 57
easy E20 of 57
hard E10 of 57
E120 of 57
easy E120 of 57
hard HVS10 of 57
HVS6 of 57
easy HVS1 of 57
hard 5c0 of 52
5c0 of 52
easy 5c0 of 52
hard 5b0 of 52
5b25 of 52
easy 5b16 of 52
hard 5a3 of 52
5a8 of 52
easy 5a0 of 52
3 Stars0 of 48
2 Stars29 of 48
1 Star19 of 48
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Style of ascent
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP