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Bad to the Bone* E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Withy Crack
 
Boner >>
30m. A good climb, which is still clinging on to its E1 status, although absolutely at the bottom end. Start at the cave entrance 10m right of the Withy Crack belay. Move up and step left; then gain the slab. Climb the slab to the third of 3 saplings, where the wall steepens. Move leftwards up a thin crack to gain pockets. Nice technical moves on the wall above lead to the exit of Withy crack.
M Raine, M Hammill 30/Mar/2002
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 68 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Steve27 - 2nd - 18/May/13 with Ian Handscomb

beth_may - 2nd - 28/Apr/13 with Oli Mentz

First E1 (more like E0.5)
Chazwoz - Lead β - 27/Apr/13 with Merlin March

clams - Lead - Apr/13 with Chaz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/13

LukeyG - Lead - 19/Sep/12

scoffing on the blackberries half way up :-)
kirsten - 2nd - 15/Sep/12 with Mick

Tom Frost - 2nd - 06/Sep/12

Worthwhile - the easiest E1 I've done, about the same as Withy crack really. Great moves & good gear :)
Phil Murray - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/12 with Liz

Gibbo - 2nd - 17/Jun/12 with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/12

Crux is the central wall. Thin and quite technical, and plenty of fun. Again all too short
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Sue Hazel

riddle - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Adam Ryan

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 31/May/12 with Debbie

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 28/May/12 with Rick

Had a bit of gear beta (take plenty of cams and slings), but no tips on the moves. My first E1 lead. A good climb, but soft for the grade, it didn't feel like I had just broken a new lead grade as I've climbed harder HVSes, but happy to be able to call myself an extreme leader! Made a right meal of abbing off and getting the gear - the ab point is well off to the left and I was penduluming around all over the shop!
The Ivanator - Lead O/S - 28/May/12 with Jez

Nice climb, pretty easy and decent protection.
Rick Ashton - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Robert Drynda

Steve Woollard - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Joe Bellows

getagripjoe - Lead - 15/Apr/12

climbingchica - 2nd - 16/Oct/11

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/11 with Clare

riddle - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11

BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 21/May/11 with David Martinez Majo, Richard Williams

Measured 30m. Start at cave entrance, rather than above it. From third sapling, step up and follow left-rising crack to pockets.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 16/Apr/11 with Shunt

would have felt hvs if holds not filled with wet mud. Good route though.
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/11 with Joe Urwin

joeurwin - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/11 with al franks

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with jon

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with liv_the_div

Jonny M - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Oli Gray

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10

There really are some great moves on this climb.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/10 with Clare

crux is move or gear - but not both! Great route but easy..
evhall - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09 with CK

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Lisa Paling

Started about a third of the way up, having abbed off Withy Crack.
DorsetGareth - 2nd O/S - 30/May/09 with Richard Nadin

muddy shoe slipped off small foothold just above tree but lowered to tree and climbed top cleanly. Annoyed about fall though! Lovely route.
joeurwin - 2nd dog - 03/May/09 with alex & Dan Bruniges

AlexD - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with joeurwin

First time in Fairy cave, so maybe this is normal, but thought the rock quality on this route was fairly poor.
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/09 with Ed

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09

Quirina - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Neil Larsen

mol - 2nd - 05/Apr/09 with Jesse

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 05/Apr/09 with Molly Thompson

vertigo - 2nd β - 19/Oct/08 with Mark Ryder

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Rich

First E1 lead.
SC - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with mike kann

richardr - Lead O/S - Jun/08

jon bradley - Lead rpt - 27/Apr/08 with Huw Howells

ian d f - Lead - 2008

chris sm - 2nd rpt - 11/Nov/07 with Ian Butterworth

Second with Mike Kann. Could not say I climbed all of it as Iain kept rope tight on hard part...which was good when I slipped off! Started out in failing light and finished ab in darkness.
cas smerdon - 2nd - 04/Oct/07 with Iain Shone

damp
Shone - Lead - 04/Oct/07 with Mike Kann & Cas

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 14/Sep/07 with Mark

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/07 with Brian

My first E1 lead and what a buzz!
Anthony Allsopp - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/07 with DAve and Jason (HMC)

deklan - Lead - Aug/07

JimR - 2nd - Jul/07 with AJM

Nice moves over the overlap, and where the slab steepens. Pulled off a sidepull at one point, and nearly came off, and my feet came off at one point but I managed to hang on.
freelancer_85 - Lead O/S - 02/May/07 with Megan

(Dry this time). A nice climb with some good moves where the slab steepens above the third sapling
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 22/Apr/07 with Clare

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/06 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Jun/06

Bux - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Rupert Bassadone

maresia - 2nd dog - 11/Feb/06 with Mike Kann

mike kann - Lead O/S - 2006 with Steve Corner (SC)

chris sm - 2nd - Aug/05 with Haggis Harris

KRB - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/05 with Chris Bridges

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/03 with Gavin Edwards

Paz - Lead - Jul/02 with SN

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Owen W-G, JamesRich, wurzelinzummerset, ben.richards, nick hawkins, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar

Voting
Total votes cast 55
hard E20 of 19
E20 of 19
easy E20 of 19
hard E10 of 19
E16 of 19
easy E110 of 19
hard HVS3 of 19
HVS0 of 19
easy HVS0 of 19
hard 5c0 of 20
5c0 of 20
easy 5c0 of 20
hard 5b0 of 20
5b12 of 20
easy 5b7 of 20
hard 5a1 of 20
5a0 of 20
easy 5a0 of 20
3 Stars0 of 16
2 Stars9 of 16
1 Star7 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
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Style of ascent

Lead41 of 68 (60.3%)
Followed26 of 68 (38.2%)
Toproped1 of 68 (1.5%)

'Climbed'20 of 68 (29.4%)
clean O/S34 of 68 (50.0%)
clean β2 of 68 (2.9%)
clean rpt10 of 68 (14.7%)
dogged2 of 68 (2.9%)