Somerset > Fairy Cave Quarry >
 
Bad to the Bone* E1 5b

Adjacent Climbs
<< Withy Crack
 
Boner >>
30m. A good climb, which is still clinging on to its E1 status, although absolutely at the bottom end. Start at the cave entrance 10m right of the Withy Crack belay. Move up and step left; then gain the slab. Climb the slab to the third of 3 saplings, where the wall steepens. Move leftwards up a thin crack to gain pockets. Nice technical moves on the wall above lead to the exit of Withy crack.
M Raine, M Hammill 30/Mar/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20, Bristol 1st E1s.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 122 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead - 19/Aug/14

zcsharp - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/14 with Steve Gibbs

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 17/Aug/14 with Jamie Roberts

Hardest of the day. Started raining as I got to the top.
cdpuk - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Rob Scarisbrick

Slipped in the rain
RobScarisbrick - 2nd dog - 03/Aug/14 with cdpuk

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/14

Tom F Harding - Lead RP - 27/Jul/14 with Steve Bartle

rdpounder - 2nd - 27/Jul/14 with Tom F Harding

Nice moves and a good route. A couple of the holds in the upper section are a tad dirty but it's easy ground by that point.
spenser - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14 with Andrew Rembrandt

sheelba - 2nd - 12/Jul/14

Harder then Withy Crack.
Tom F Harding - Lead dog - 12/Jul/14 with Sam Collins

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/14

Wendy - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Tom Ball

Nice route but I don't think it is E1 5b. It's easier than Withy Crack next door.
Chris Sieradzki - 2nd O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Hooo

Very soft for E1. Rushed up it in a hurry as we had to leave, and it was no problem. Hardest bit was the rope drag from the first bit of gear above the cave, so at the ledge I untied and continued on one rope.
Hooo - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/14 with Chris Sieradzki

Pintsize - Lead - 22/Jun/14 with Will Benfold

will_benfold - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Sarah Woodrow

HVS 5a. Definitely easier than Withy Crack.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Jana

Phoebus - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with James Orde Powlett

Hidden - Lead - 19/May/14

Vincej - 2nd - 19/May/14 with Nevil

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14

felixizzy - Lead O/S - 05/May/14

tskelhon - 2nd O/S - May/14 with Charlotte

I still suspect this may be HVS, taken in context with the grades of e.g. Withy Crack, Strictly Ballroom and Smell the Glove.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/14 with Kirsten

kirsten - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with Brian

gjh - 2nd β - 18/Apr/14

James Jackson - 2014

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Aug/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/13

Tristypants - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with Helen Eden

marsden.d.paul - 2nd - 18/Aug/13 with Patrick Dobbs

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/13

A little damp and slippery at the start but fine once on the upper wall, a good route well worth doing
petegunn - Lead - 02/Aug/13 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/Aug/13

Dissapointingly easy!
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/13 with Iggy, Peter

Felt easier than and was not as good as Withy Crack. Still really nice though.
pheotleyr - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/13 with Iggy, Ben

squicky - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/13 with Ben, Peter

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/13

MoWalker3 - 24/Jul/13 with Cormac

mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Mike Guttridge

Felix Ottey - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/13

jon bradley - 2nd rpt - 12/Jul/13 with Tim Styles

Good holds for the steep moves and good gear generally. Felt easier than Withy crack.
timstyles - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Jon Bradley

just one more - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with john smith

TimPerkin - Lead - 02/Jun/13 with Tom Perkin

Decent gear for this crag, not using your friend 1 low down when it is needed for the high crux would be wise, nice gift at the grade
Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/13 with Liam

Brambles!
tolly_60 - 2nd β - 01/Jun/13

Georgia H - 2nd - Jun/13

tcoombe1 - Lead - Jun/13

markfromstoke - 22/May/13 with Steve N

Steve27 - 2nd - 18/May/13 with Ian Handscomb

beth_may - 2nd - 28/Apr/13 with Oli Mentz

First E1 (more like E0.5)
Chazwoz - Lead β - 27/Apr/13 with Merlin March

clams - Lead - Apr/13 with Chaz

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/13

LukeyG - Lead - 19/Sep/12

scoffing on the blackberries half way up :-)
kirsten - 2nd - 15/Sep/12 with Mick

Tom Frost - 2nd - 06/Sep/12

Worthwhile - the easiest E1 I've done, about the same as Withy crack really. Great moves & good gear :)
Phil Murray - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/12 with Liz

Gibbo - 2nd - 17/Jun/12 with Claire Chipperfield, Tom Gibbison

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/12

Crux is the central wall. Thin and quite technical, and plenty of fun. Again all too short
clipskipper - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Sue Hazel

riddle - 2nd O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Adam Ryan

adam 24 - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 31/May/12 with Debbie

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 28/May/12 with Rick

Had a bit of gear beta (take plenty of cams and slings), but no tips on the moves. My first E1 lead. A good climb, but soft for the grade, it didn't feel like I had just broken a new lead grade as I've climbed harder HVSes, but happy to be able to call myself an extreme leader! Made a right meal of abbing off and getting the gear - the ab point is well off to the left and I was penduluming around all over the shop!
The Ivanator - Lead O/S - 28/May/12 with Jez

Nigel Coe - 2nd - 27/May/12 with Norman Wright

Nice climb, pretty easy and decent protection.
Rick Ashton - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Robert Drynda

Steve Woollard - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with Joe Bellows

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/12

climbingchica - 2nd - 16/Oct/11

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/11 with Clare

riddle - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11

BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 21/May/11 with David Martinez Majo, Richard Williams

Measured 30m. Start at cave entrance, rather than above it. From third sapling, step up and follow left-rising crack to pockets.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 16/Apr/11 with Shunt

would have felt hvs if holds not filled with wet mud. Good route though.
Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/11 with Joe Urwin

joeurwin - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/11 with al franks

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with jon

fatbuoybazza - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with liv_the_div

Jonny M - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Oli Gray

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Aug/10

There really are some great moves on this climb.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 09/Aug/10 with Clare

crux is move or gear - but not both! Great route but easy..
evhall - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09 with CK

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Lisa Paling

Started about a third of the way up, having abbed off Withy Crack.
DorsetGareth - 2nd O/S - 30/May/09 with Richard Nadin

muddy shoe slipped off small foothold just above tree but lowered to tree and climbed top cleanly. Annoyed about fall though! Lovely route.
joeurwin - 2nd dog - 03/May/09 with alex & Dan Bruniges

AlexD - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with joeurwin

First time in Fairy cave, so maybe this is normal, but thought the rock quality on this route was fairly poor.
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/09 with Ed

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09

Quirina - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Neil Larsen

mol - 2nd - 05/Apr/09 with Jesse

Jesse Dufton - Lead - 05/Apr/09 with Molly Thompson

vertigo - 2nd β - 19/Oct/08 with Mark Ryder

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Rich

First E1 lead.
SC - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with mike kann

richardr - Lead O/S - Jun/08

jon bradley - Lead rpt - 27/Apr/08 with Huw Howells

ian d f - Lead - 2008

chris sm - 2nd rpt - 11/Nov/07 with Ian Butterworth

Second with Mike Kann. Could not say I climbed all of it as Iain kept rope tight on hard part...which was good when I slipped off! Started out in failing light and finished ab in darkness.
cas smerdon - 2nd - 04/Oct/07 with Iain Shone

damp
Shone - Lead - 04/Oct/07 with Mike Kann & Cas

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 14/Sep/07 with Mark

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/07 with Brian

My first E1 lead and what a buzz!
Anthony Allsopp - Lead O/S - 19/Aug/07 with DAve and Jason (HMC)

deklan - Lead - Aug/07

JimR - 2nd - Jul/07 with AJM

Nice moves over the overlap, and where the slab steepens. Pulled off a sidepull at one point, and nearly came off, and my feet came off at one point but I managed to hang on.
freelancer_85 - Lead O/S - 02/May/07 with Megan

(Dry this time). A nice climb with some good moves where the slab steepens above the third sapling
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 22/Apr/07 with Clare

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/06 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 01/Jun/06

Bux - Lead O/S - Jun/06 with Rupert Bassadone

maresia - 2nd dog - 11/Feb/06 with Mike Kann

mike kann - Lead O/S - 2006 with Steve Corner (SC)

chris sm - 2nd - Aug/05 with Haggis Harris

KRB - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/05 with Chris Bridges

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

Nigel Coe - Lead - 12/Jul/03 with Norman Wright

cornishben - Lead O/S - Jan/03 with Gavin Edwards

Paz - Lead - Jul/02 with SN

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Fatclimber, Hooo, Tom Harper, jopayne1988, kenneM, JamesRich, wurzelinzummerset, ben.richards, nick hawkins, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar

Voting
Total votes cast 105
hard E20 of 38
E20 of 38
easy E20 of 38
hard E10 of 38
E112 of 38
easy E115 of 38
hard HVS7 of 38
HVS3 of 38
easy HVS1 of 38
hard 5c0 of 37
5c0 of 37
easy 5c0 of 37
hard 5b0 of 37
5b19 of 37
easy 5b12 of 37
hard 5a2 of 37
5a4 of 37
easy 5a0 of 37
3 Stars0 of 30
2 Stars20 of 30
1 Star10 of 30
0 Stars0 of 30
Bag of .....0 of 30
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Style of ascent

Lead68 of 122 (55.7%)
Followed50 of 122 (41.0%)
Toproped1 of 122 (0.8%)
Unknown3 of 122 (2.5%)

'Climbed'39 of 122 (32.0%)
clean O/S62 of 122 (50.8%)
clean β4 of 122 (3.3%)
clean rpt12 of 122 (9.8%)
clean RP1 of 122 (0.8%)
dogged4 of 122 (3.3%)