25m. Start just right of the lowest point of the slab. The crack looks easy and well protected but isn't. Climb the crack and move right up the ramp for 4m; then make a reachy move to the diagonal crack of Lunar Landscape. One move right along this gains wide cracks which lead easily to a sapling lower-off.

J Stanbury, R A Broomhead 24/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Mayaculpa 10/Oct TR
with Richard T
David Staples 10/Oct Lead rpt
Rob Morgan 26/Sep Lead
with Win-yei
Win-yei 26/Sep 2nd
with Rob
Chris Sieradzki 20/Sep Lead O/S
with Hooo
Hooo 20/Sep 2nd

Easier and better protected than Jiggery Pokery, despite what the guidebook says.

WillAndrew 19/Sep Lead O/S
with Tom N
Gaz of Bath 09/Sep Lead O/S
felixizzy 16/Aug Lead rpt
with Soph
Tom Downes 12/Aug 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 12/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Aug Lead O/S
just one more 29/Jul Lead β

Nice slab climbing

with ben enright, katie b
Robin Woodward 21/Jul Lead O/S

Slightly bold start. Nice enough route, the transfer to the crack didn't seem cruxy.

lakeyross 19/Jul Lead O/S

nice route, lovely day, lush quarry. :-) 5a? dont think so, 4b/c?

ali.scott 11/Jul Lead O/S
with Pete C
Hidden 11/Jul Lead O/S
cameron_hall 11/Jul Lead O/S
Angrypenguin 11/Jul 2nd O/S
91dave 11/Jul 2nd rpt
MoWalker3 02/Jul 2nd
with Rob
Hidden 18/Jun Lead
catty_9 17/Jun Lead O/S
Angrypenguin 17/Jun 2nd O/S
with Cat
Hexman 16/Jun Lead O/S
danieleaston 10/Jun 2nd O/S
with Steve
Steve Bartle 10/Jun Lead rpt
Hidden 17/May Lead
crater 17/May 2nd

very slippy start, prob hvs

with steve
maresia 13/May Lead rpt
Hidden 11/May Lead rpt
Hidden 11/May 2nd rpt
sideshow84 10/May Lead β

With pre placed gear.

Hidden 09/May Lead
Hidden 09/May 2nd
91dave 09/May 2nd rpt
Fatclimber 04/May 2nd O/S
Deako 04/May Lead
Ollie Wickham 23/Apr 2nd O/S
with Richard Mackie
Felix Ottey 05/Apr 2nd rpt
ape1980 05/Feb 2nd rpt
with Garth
Hidden 01/Feb 2nd rpt
Hidden 01/Feb Lead rpt
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead rpt
steve_gibbs 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with John Harris, Jamie Roberts
Matt Amos 12/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Ian JL 07/Sep/14 Solo O/S
abtibbs 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Jamie Roberts
Hidden 23/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 20/Aug/14 2nd
Hidden 12/Aug/14 Lead O/S
ian d f 07/Aug/14 Lead rpt
with Steve Needs
callans 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Tricky start and a lot of imaginary footholds.

katiep 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Lower section felt a little fluttery but a great route

with Callan
91dave 03/Aug/14 Lead rpt

First VS lead. Tricky first section before gear a few metres up. The right-trending ramp was fine, but the step above the slot (and gear!) was certainly tasty. Very happy with the lead.

with Hester Robertson, Kerry Mellor
will_benfold 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Pintsize 03/Aug/14 2nd

Extremely slippery in the rain! Still good fun though

Hidden 31/Jul/14 2nd dog
Hidden 28/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 27/Jul/14 2nd
with Steve Webster
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Tom Harper 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Start is becoming very polished. Felt hard for 5a

sjscammell ?/Jul/14 Lead

pleasant little bimble. cheeky thread thru to drop in protection ...

91dave 29/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Pintsize 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
marsden.d.paul 23/Jun/14 Lead rpt
thomb 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 22/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Ygraine, Greg Clarke
Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd
gregclarke 22/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Brian
Hidden 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Kemics 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

I really enjoyed this route, excellent rock and a reasonable line. No move close to 5a though.

with Dom
riddle 14/Jun/14 2nd O/S
Neil Watson 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Riddle
samparsons 13/Jun/14 2nd
with John
Mayaculpa 08/Jun/14 2nd
with Alex
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Ric
bonelessivar 01/Jun/14 Lead RP

Fell off at the start, lowered and led clean. Clearly, I wasn't in slab mode!

with Alan
Hidden ?/Jun/14 -
Bob Peters ?/Jun/14 -
Tom F Harding 31/May/14 Lead rpt

Bottom section is getting very polished!

Steve Bartle 31/May/14 2nd O/S
matthew_dunn224 26/May/14 2nd O/S
mutly 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Alex W, Carla
alexwolf47 26/May/14 2nd O/S
karlanjana 26/May/14 2nd O/S
felixizzy 18/May/14 2nd rpt
with Sean
marsden.d.paul 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Bottom section hardest part. Nice moves mid-height

BallsOfSteel 18/May/14 Lead O/S
with Felix
David Staples 18/May/14 2nd O/S
davenev 15/May/14 2nd O/S
with David
drgrange 15/May/14 Lead O/S
with davenev
The Ivanator 04/May/14 Lead rpt

Best VS on the Glacis, forgot how nice the moves on this are.

with Rob
kiwi boy 04/May/14 2nd rpt

Start is now harder with polish starting to become eveident

with David Smith
Hidden 03/May/14 Lead O/S
felixizzy 21/Apr/14 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Really enjoyed this route today.

with Nick
stoneback 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
with Alan
bpmclimb 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Kirsten
kirsten 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Brian
plilley 18/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Yasmina, Roger
BicycleBradley 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
with Rich
gjh 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S
shim ?/Apr/14 2nd
BenFitzG 16/Mar/14 2nd
James Jackson ??/2014 -
Easty14 05/Oct/13 Lead
Echna 29/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Dave Thompson 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with Mark Lee
Ali.B 05/Sep/13 Lead O/S
with johnevans
johnl 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett, Andy Dunford
Adam Perrett 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S

On preplaced gear

with Sarah Perrett
dereke12000 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Tricky start, otherwise good. In situ anchor rope is rotten.

with Rob
Hidden 29/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with John Parrott
Wendy Watthews 11/Aug/13 Lead
with Liz, arandall
arandall ?/Aug/13 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/Jul/13 Lead
MoWalker3 17/Jul/13 -

Moved left up slab to gear near small bush, I assume this was the top 3rd (ie the easy bit) of Glacial point. dusty.

with Cormac
wurzelinzummerset 15/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Ben
Cheese Monkey 15/Jul/13 2nd rpt

Still tricky

with Alan
mick1jones 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Mike Guttridge
jon bradley 12/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Tim Styles
timstyles 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Swsloper 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Felix Ottey 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Fun route good gear.

Psychlane 05/Jul/13 Lead
with Plov
mikeydee135 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
beckett45 28/Jun/13 Lead
Shone 19/Jun/13 Lead
with Ian Butterworth
bpmclimb 19/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Richard
sheelba 01/Jun/13 Lead
maresia 26/May/13 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 18/May/13 2nd O/S

Difficult start and a long reach halfway

with Peter
pheotleyr 18/May/13 Lead O/S

Start is not as bold or insecure as the guidebook makes out - had a seemingly bomber small cam in at about 3 meters.

with Ben
sonic46 05/May/13 Lead
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Chazwoz 27/Apr/13 Lead β
Hidden 19/Apr/13 2nd β
bpmclimb 19/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with Helen S
rachchanter 07/Apr/13 Lead O/S
clams ?/Apr/13 Lead
with Chaz
sadlerbrett 23/Feb/13 Lead dog

My second trad lead. Took a rest at the crux, but the gear was good :-))

with Ian Hellier
JonHarvey 21/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Dave Moir, James Langridge
langar27 21/Feb/13 2nd O/S
norris.dan ??/2013 2nd O/S
Nix33 ??/2013 -
ruaidh 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Thought this was mucho easier than Bobs crack. This start then romp upt the rest.

with Ben
Hidden 29/Sep/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 19/Sep/12 Lead β
homing-penguin 19/Sep/12 2nd O/S
tomshanti 09/Sep/12 2nd β

Brad lead.nice climb,followed alternative start up slab left of initial crack as second

bradfry 09/Sep/12 Lead O/S
lazzaw 06/Sep/12 2nd rpt
ape1980 06/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with lazzaw
mattc 03/Sep/12 Lead RP
Jobbo 03/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
LukeyG 12/Aug/12 Lead
Hidden 11/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/12 2nd β
bpmclimb 03/Aug/12 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
lazzaw 25/Jun/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 24/May/12 Lead rpt
cornish bird 24/May/12 2nd O/S
with tom
wurzelinzummerset 23/May/12 2nd
with Brian
bpmclimb 23/May/12 Lead rpt
with Alan
Big Lee 20/May/12 Lead O/S

Tricky, insecure start up the thin crack but easier as the climb progressed. A good route.

Hidden 16/May/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 16/May/12 Lead O/S
Samuel P 16/May/12 2nd O/S
with Niels, Tommy
bpmclimb 02/May/12 Lead rpt

With the Jiggery Pokery start, and gear in situ.

with Mick
Hidden 15/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden 15/Apr/12 AltLd
Hidden 15/Apr/12 2nd
Sarah Welsh 15/Apr/12 AltLd
Mr Winkleberry 14/Apr/12 Lead O/S
lazzaw 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Jason Wilber
onlyfoddington 28/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with James H
Kayan 28/Mar/12 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 26/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 26/Mar/12 2nd
with Brian
lukerathmell 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with steve
upontop 22/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Chris
Didymus 04/Sep/11 Solo O/S
Poco Loco 03/Sep/11 Lead

The rock was kind of greasy at the start. My feet slipped off the hard move twice! Got it third time from the ground. Taxing start in those conditions.

with andy2, Dean
Deano100 03/Sep/11 2nd
with Andy H, James
kiwi boy 03/Sep/11 2nd rpt

Greasey rock with a difficult start. Good lead James. Repeat for me

with james 2, dean naylor
Hidden ?/Sep/11 Lead
sofe13 21/Aug/11 2nd

Lisa struggled, her hardest climb, got a bit pumped and was sloppy with gear, but she did it!

with Lisa
Hidden 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Aaron Phillips 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S

a bit chossy and overgrown but very good!

with my dad
Dawlish 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Dave Ing 17/Jul/11 Lead O/S
mikeydee135 02/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Mai Wong, David Fisher
kiwi boy 26/Jun/11 Lead

Typical slab route. gear a bit spartan in the first 5m.

with joe
bonoid 26/Jun/11 2nd
with Andy
Hidden 26/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead dog
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/11 TR
Hidden 24/May/11 TR
James Moyle 19/May/11 Lead rpt

Probably done before. Easy to slip on the first move, but fairly straightforward after that. Loads of good gear

with Richard Burton, D. Murphy
Hidden 19/May/11 2nd
dannit 19/May/11 Lead O/S
will909 15/May/11 Lead rpt
jon bradley 04/May/11 2nd rpt
with Brian Vaughan
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead
Will Gordon ?/May/11 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 27/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden 26/Apr/11 2nd
bpmclimb 20/Apr/11 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/11 2nd
bpmclimb 28/Mar/11 TR rpt

Top end of the grade for the very insecure start.

with Shunt
will909 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S
tommyt82uk 27/Mar/11 Lead O/S


Hidden 26/Mar/11 2nd rpt
Dan Stel ??/2011 Lead
fletch73 ??/2011 -
davenev 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Tricky little start best done quickly

with luke
Mr Tickle 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S
with davenev
arandall 26/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with Isaac Whitcombe
The Ivanator 19/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Tricky start, which makes it worth the grade unlike lots of climbs at FC ...not stiff for VS though in the wider scheme of things.

with Rich
Rich God 3 19/Sep/10 2nd
crossdressingrodney 18/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with jon
Jonny M 18/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Colin Skuse, Oli Gray
Hidden 06/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Richard Morgan 01/Sep/10 2nd
Ybot Htulk ?/Sep/10 Lead
with Richard
stvredmond 30/Aug/10 Lead

enjoyed this bad boy especially the mid section moves after the slight traverse

Helnorris 30/Aug/10 2nd
Bobling 30/Aug/10 2nd
with Helen, sredmond
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead rpt
arandall 27/Aug/10 2nd β
jezb1 23/Aug/10 Lead

Damp low down which made the start a little tricky. Nice route.

Hidden 15/Aug/10 TR
Tom_Harding 08/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Tim
bpmclimb 05/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Marti999 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
Graham C 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Marti
Tom_Harding 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
with Gordy
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Tom F Harding 16/Aug/09 2nd O/S
andy dunn 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Alan
Darrell Read 01/Jul/09 2nd

Jamie led.

with Jamie O'Hare, Ian Johnson
Greg Pittam 14/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Amy Laverock
tobydunford 31/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/May/09 2nd O/S
Chris Homewood (Swindon MC) 09/May/09 Lead O/S
AlexD 03/May/09 2nd
joeurwin 03/May/09 Lead O/S

first VS lead, main difficulty at the bottom crackline.

with alex & Dan Bruniges
trevor macalonan 28/Sep/08 Lead
MarkRyder 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Lee
Hidden 27/Jul/08 Lead O/S
upontop 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Chris
SC 15/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Hard start.

with Mike Kan
Hidden 22/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 22/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 11/Jun/08 Lead
cas smerdon 04/Jun/08 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/08 Lead rpt
richardr ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/08 2nd O/S
ashleylist ?/Mar/08 -
with Tamsin Collins
Peter Swift ??/2008 AltLd O/S
petegunn ??/2008 Lead
ian d f ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 2nd O/S
Hidden 10/Nov/07 Lead O/S
vicvac 10/Nov/07 2nd
with alice
Hidden 10/Nov/07 2nd
John_Hat 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Stevieblue
Hidden 23/Aug/07 Solo rpt
Matt Tranter 11/Aug/07 Lead
Matt Tranter 17/Jun/07 Lead
with Zelda Greyling
Dan B 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Bev
Hidden 18/Apr/07 2nd
Sarah Bough 18/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with Henry Olver, Andrew Hawkins
MarkR 15/Apr/07 Lead
Matty 14/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Only tricky bit is the first crack in the slab.

MaddieT 14/Apr/07 2nd
with Matt
Hidden 23/Sep/06 Lead O/S
The Mountain Goat 19/Sep/06 2nd O/S
Somerset swede basher 19/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Jon Miles
bpmclimb 18/Sep/06 2nd rpt
with Clare
Hidden 08/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 22/Aug/06 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/06 Lead rpt
BruceW 06/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Hugh
Hidden 04/Jul/06 Lead rpt
Hidden 14/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/May/06 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 24/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Clare
Paul Robertson 08/Apr/06 2nd O/S

Harder than it looks.

with Paddy Wilson
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
Mark Salter 10/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Shorrock
Hidden ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun/05 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/05 Lead O/S
gripped01 ?/May/05 Lead O/S
with Dan Graves
Hidden ??/2005 -
Hidden 14/Sep/04 Lead
Lev 04/Sep/04 2nd O/S
with Claire Curant, James Byrne
guy xavier percival 06/Jun/04 Solo O/S
with none
Urgles ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Laura
just one more 29/May/04 Lead
with john + suzi, Max B
Paz ?/Feb/04 2nd
with SA LC
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
cornishben ?/Jan/02 Lead
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
petecallaghan, jhobbs, Hidden, Jonathan Storey, Hidden, Hidden
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 61
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 60
Votes cast 54
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set