Somerset > Fairy Cave Quarry >
 
Caveman* VS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Ash Tree Wall
 
Jiggery Pokery >>
[Sam ripping up the slab, 2 kb]25m. Start just right of the lowest point of the slab. The crack looks easy and well protected but isn't. Climb the crack and move right up the ramp for 4m; then make a reachy move to the diagonal crack of Lunar Landscape. One move right along this gains wide cracks which lead easily to a sapling lower-off.
J Stanbury, R A Broomhead 24/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Photo: Sam ripping up the slab © Steve Woollard
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 264 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/14

Hidden - Lead rpt - 20/Aug/14

Steve Woollard - 2nd - 20/Aug/14 with Samantha Roach

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/14

ian d f - Lead rpt - 07/Aug/14 with Steve Needs

Tricky start and a lot of imaginary footholds.
callans - 2nd O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Katie Preston

Lower section felt a little fluttery but a great route
katiep - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Callan

First VS lead. Tricky first section before gear a few metres up. The right-trending ramp was fine, but the step above the slot (and gear!) was certainly tasty. Very happy with the lead.
91dave - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/14 with Hester Robertson, Kerry Mellor

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/14 with Sarah Woodrow

Extremely slippery in the rain! Still good fun though
Pintsize - 2nd - 03/Aug/14 with Will Benfold

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/14

Adrian Daniels - 2nd - 27/Jul/14 with Steve Webster

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/14

Scuzlebut - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Matt

Start is becoming very polished. Felt hard for 5a
Tom Harper - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/14

pleasant little bimble. cheeky thread thru to drop in protection ...
sjscammell - Lead - Jul/14

91dave - 2nd O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Sarah Woodrow

Pintsize - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Dave Arthur

marsden.d.paul - Lead rpt - 23/Jun/14

thomb - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/14

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/14 with Ygraine, Greg Clarke

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jun/14

gregclarke - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/14 with Brian

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/14

I really enjoyed this route, excellent rock and a reasonable line. No move close to 5a though.
Kemics - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Dom

riddle - 2nd O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Neil Watson

Neil Watson - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14 with Riddle

samparsons - 2nd - 13/Jun/14 with John

Mayaculpa - 2nd - 08/Jun/14 with Alex

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 01/Jun/14 with Ric

Fell off at the start, lowered and led clean. Clearly, I wasn't in slab mode!
bonelessivar - Lead RP - 01/Jun/14 with Alan

Hidden - Jun/14

Bottom section is getting very polished!
Tom F Harding - Lead rpt - 31/May/14 with Steve Bartle

rdpounder - 2nd O/S - 31/May/14 with Tom F Harding

matthew_dunn224 - 2nd O/S - 26/May/14

mutly - Lead O/S - 26/May/14 with Alex W, Carla

alexwolf47 - 2nd O/S - 26/May/14

felixizzy - 2nd rpt - 18/May/14 with Sean

Bottom section hardest part. Nice moves mid-height
marsden.d.paul - Lead O/S - 18/May/14

BallsOfSteel - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Felix

David Staples - 2nd O/S - 18/May/14

davenev - 2nd O/S - 15/May/14 with David

drgrange - Lead - 15/May/14 with davenev

Best VS on the Glacis, forgot how nice the moves on this are.
The Ivanator - Lead rpt - 04/May/14 with Rob

Start is now harder with polish starting to become eveident
kiwi boy - 2nd rpt - 04/May/14 with David Smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/May/14

felixizzy - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/14

Really enjoyed this route today.
wurzelinzummerset - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/14 with Nick

stoneback - 2nd O/S - 19/Apr/14 with Alan

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/14 with Kirsten

kirsten - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with Brian

plilley - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/14 with Yasmina, Roger

BicycleBradley - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Rich

gjh - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14

shim - 2nd - Apr/14

Phoebus - 2nd - 16/Mar/14

James Jackson - 2014

Easty14 - Lead - 05/Oct/13

Echna - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/13

Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13 with Mark Lee

Ali.B - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/13 with johnevans

johnl - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett, Andy Dunford

On preplaced gear
Adam Perrett - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/13 with Sarah Perrett

Tricky start, otherwise good. In situ anchor rope is rotten.
dereke12000 - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/13 with Rob

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Aug/13

Adrian Daniels - Lead O/S - 25/Aug/13 with John Parrott

Wendy Watthews - Lead - 11/Aug/13 with Liz, arandall

arandall - 2nd rpt - Aug/13 with Wendy Matthews

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/13

Moved left up slab to gear near small bush, I assume this was the top 3rd (ie the easy bit) of Glacial point. dusty.
MoWalker3 - 17/Jul/13 with Cormac

wurzelinzummerset - Lead rpt - 15/Jul/13 with Ben

Still tricky
Cheese Monkey - 2nd rpt - 15/Jul/13 with Alan

mick1jones - 2nd O/S - 13/Jul/13 with Mike Guttridge

jon bradley - 2nd rpt - 12/Jul/13 with Tim Styles

timstyles - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/13 with Jon Bradley

Swsloper - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13

Fun route good gear.
Felix Ottey - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/13

Psychlane - Lead - 05/Jul/13 with Plov

mikeydee135 - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

Shone - Lead - 19/Jun/13 with Ian Butterworth

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/13 with Richard

sheelba - Lead - 01/Jun/13

maresia - Lead O/S - 26/May/13 with Mike Kann

Difficult start and a long reach halfway
Cheese Monkey - 2nd O/S - 18/May/13 with Peter

Start is not as bold or insecure as the guidebook makes out - had a seemingly bomber small cam in at about 3 meters.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Ben

sonic46 - Lead - 05/May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Apr/13

Chazwoz - Lead β - 27/Apr/13 with Merlin March

hms - 2nd β - 19/Apr/13 with Brian

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/13 with Helen S

rachchanter - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/13

clams - Lead - Apr/13 with Chaz

My second trad lead. Took a rest at the crux, but the gear was good :-))
sadlerbrett - Lead dog - 23/Feb/13 with Ian Hellier

JonHarvey - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/13 with Dave Moir, James Langridge

langar27 - 2nd O/S - 21/Feb/13 with dave moir, jon harvey

norris.dan - 2nd O/S - 2013 with Sam Sloper

Nix33 - 2013

Thought this was mucho easier than Bobs crack. This start then romp upt the rest.
ruaidh - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Ben

Hidden - Lead dnf - 29/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Sep/12

homing-penguin - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/12

Brad lead.nice climb,followed alternative start up slab left of initial crack as second
tomshanti - 2nd β - 09/Sep/12 with Lawrence Dudley, Brad Fry

bradfry - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/12 with Tom Shanti, Lawrence

lazzaw - 2nd rpt - 06/Sep/12 with Andrew Porter

ape1980 - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/12 with lazzaw

mattc - Lead RP - 03/Sep/12

Jobbo - 2nd O/S - 03/Sep/12 with Matt Carwardine

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12

LukeyG - Lead - 12/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd β - 11/Aug/12

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 03/Aug/12 with Clare

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12

lazzaw - Lead rpt - 25/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/May/12

cornish bird - 2nd O/S - 24/May/12 with tom

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 23/May/12 with Brian

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 23/May/12 with Alan

Tricky, insecure start up the thin crack but easier as the climb progressed. A good route.
Big Lee - Lead O/S - 20/May/12 with Laurence King

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/May/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/May/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/May/12

With the Jiggery Pokery start, and gear in situ.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 02/May/12 with Mick

Steve Woollard - Lead - 15/Apr/12 with Joe Bellows

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Apr/12

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Apr/12

Mr Winkleberry - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/12 with Laura Johns

lazzaw - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/12 with Jason Wilber

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/12

Kayan - Lead O/S - 28/Mar/12 with David Brock

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/12 with Alan

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 26/Mar/12 with Brian

lukerathmell - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/12 with steve

upontop - Lead rpt - 22/Mar/12 with Chris

Jon Didymus - Solo O/S - 04/Sep/11

The rock was kind of greasy at the start. My feet slipped off the hard move twice! Got it third time from the ground. Taxing start in those conditions.
Poco Loco - Lead - 03/Sep/11 with andy2, Dean

Deano100 - 2nd - 03/Sep/11 with Andy H, James

Greasey rock with a difficult start. Good lead James. Repeat for me
kiwi boy - 2nd rpt - 03/Sep/11 with james 2, dean naylor

Hidden - Lead - Sep/11

Lisa struggled, her hardest climb, got a bit pumped and was sloppy with gear, but she did it!
sofe13 - 2nd - 21/Aug/11 with Lisa

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/11

a bit chossy and overgrown but very good!
Aaron Phillips - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/11 with my dad

Dawlish - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Son Aaron

Dave Ing - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/11 with Bridgette

mikeydee135 - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Mai Wong, David Fisher

Typical slab route. gear a bit spartan in the first 5m.
kiwi boy - Lead - 26/Jun/11 with joe

bonoid - 2nd - 26/Jun/11 with Andy

Andyh83 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Hannah B

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead dog - 01/Jun/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/11

Hidden - TR - 24/May/11

Hidden - TR - 24/May/11

Probably done before. Easy to slip on the first move, but fairly straightforward after that. Loads of good gear
James Moyle - Lead rpt - 19/May/11 with Richard Burton, D. Murphy

Hidden - 2nd - 19/May/11

dannit - Lead O/S - 19/May/11

will909 - Lead rpt - 15/May/11

jon bradley - 2nd rpt - 04/May/11 with Brian Vaughan

Hidden - Lead - May/11

Will Gordon - Lead O/S - May/11 with Chris Jose

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 27/Apr/11 with Clare

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Apr/11

bpmclimb - Solo rpt - 20/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - Apr/11

Top end of the grade for the very insecure start.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 28/Mar/11 with Shunt

will909 - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11

Enjoyable
tommyt82uk - Lead O/S - 27/Mar/11 with Matt Williams

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 26/Mar/11

Dan Stel - Lead - 2011

fletch73 - 2011

Tricky little start best done quickly
davenev - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with luke

Mr Tickle - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with davenev

arandall - Lead rpt - 26/Sep/10 with Isaac Whitcombe

Tricky start, which makes it worth the grade unlike lots of climbs at FC ...not stiff for VS though in the wider scheme of things.
The Ivanator - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/10 with Rich

Rich God 3 - 2nd - 19/Sep/10 with The Ivanator

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/10 with jon

Jonny M - 2nd O/S - 18/Sep/10 with Colin Skuse, Oli Gray

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/10

Richard Morgan - 2nd - 01/Sep/10 with Toby Kluth

Ybot Htulk - Lead - Sep/10 with Richard

enjoyed this bad boy especially the mid section moves after the slight traverse
stvredmond - Lead - 30/Aug/10 with Helen Norris, Robert Duerr

Helnorris - 2nd - 30/Aug/10 with Robert Duerr, Steve Redmond

Bobling - 2nd - 30/Aug/10 with Helen, sredmond

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/10

arandall - 2nd β - 27/Aug/10 with remus knowles

Damp low down which made the start a little tricky. Nice route.
jezb1 - Lead - 23/Aug/10

Hidden - TR - 15/Aug/10

Tom_Harding - Lead rpt - 08/Aug/10 with Tim

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/10 with Clare

Marti999 - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Anna, Graham Charman

Graham C - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Marti

Tom_Harding - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Gordy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

Tom F Harding - 2nd O/S - 16/Aug/09

andy dunn - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Alan

Jamie led.
Darrell Read - 2nd - 01/Jul/09 with Jamie O'Hare, Ian Johnson

Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/09 with Amy Laverock

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Lisa Paling

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/May/09

Chris Homewood (Swindon MC) - Lead O/S - 09/May/09 with Dan Jarman

AlexD - 2nd - 03/May/09 with joeurwin

first VS lead, main difficulty at the bottom crackline.
joeurwin - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with alex & Dan Bruniges

trevor macalonan - Lead - 28/Sep/08 with pete swift

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Lee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/08

upontop - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/08 with Chris

Hard start.
SC - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/08 with Mike Kan

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jun/08

cas smerdon - 2nd - 04/Jun/08 with Ian Jones

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/08

richardr - Lead O/S - Jun/08

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/May/08

ashleylist - Mar/08 with Tamsin Collins

Peter Swift - AltLd O/S - 2008 with trevor macalonan

petegunn - Lead - 2008

ian d f - Lead - 2008

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Nov/07

vicvac - 2nd - 10/Nov/07 with alice

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Nov/07

John_Hat - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/07 with Stevieblue

Hidden - Solo rpt - 23/Aug/07

Matt Tranter - Lead - 11/Aug/07

Matt Tranter - Lead - 17/Jun/07 with Zelda Greyling

Dan B - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/07 with Bev

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Apr/07

Sarah Bough - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/07 with Henry Olver, Andrew Hawkins

MarkR - Lead - 15/Apr/07

Only tricky bit is the first crack in the slab.
Matty - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Maddie Tulloch

MaddieT - 2nd - 14/Apr/07 with Matt

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Sep/06

The Mountain Goat - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/06 with Dom Sellers

Somerset swede basher - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/06 with Jon Miles

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 18/Sep/06 with Clare

Hidden - Lead - 08/Sep/06

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/06

BruceW - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/06 with Hugh

Hidden - Lead rpt - 04/Jul/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/06

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/May/06

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/06 with Clare

Harder than it looks.
Paul Robertson - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/06 with Paddy Wilson

mike kann - Lead O/S - 2006 with Steve Corner (SC)

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - 2006

Mark Salter - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/05 with Chris Shorrock

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/05

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Jun/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/05

gripped01 - Lead O/S - May/05 with Dan Graves

Hidden - 2005

Hidden - Lead - 14/Sep/04

Lev - 2nd O/S - 04/Sep/04 with Claire Curant, James Byrne

guy xavier percival - Solo O/S - 06/Jun/04 with none

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Laura

Paz - 2nd - Feb/04 with SA LC

cornishben - Lead - Jan/02

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Jonathan Storey, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 142
hard HVS0 of 49
HVS0 of 49
easy HVS2 of 49
hard VS14 of 49
VS28 of 49
easy VS5 of 49
hard HS0 of 49
HS0 of 49
easy HS0 of 49
hard 5b0 of 48
5b0 of 48
easy 5b0 of 48
hard 5a3 of 48
5a36 of 48
easy 5a3 of 48
hard 4c4 of 48
4c2 of 48
easy 4c0 of 48
3 Stars0 of 45
2 Stars11 of 45
1 Star29 of 45
0 Stars5 of 45
Bag of .....0 of 45
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed4 of 264 (1.5%)
Lead159 of 264 (60.2%)
Followed88 of 264 (33.3%)
Toproped4 of 264 (1.5%)
Alt Leads2 of 264 (0.8%)
Unknown7 of 264 (2.7%)

'Climbed'76 of 264 (28.8%)
clean O/S133 of 264 (50.4%)
clean β6 of 264 (2.3%)
clean rpt43 of 264 (16.3%)
clean RP2 of 264 (0.8%)
dogged3 of 264 (1.1%)
dnf1 of 264 (0.4%)