25m. A sought-after lead! Start 3m left of the grassy ramp, just left of a hairline crack. Make hard moves, past microwire placements at 4m, to reach a good hold (cam in a slot on the right at 6m: the route is possibly E3 if this is placed).
Climb up and then leftwards over a tiny overlap to good cracks (on Caveman); then step left again to finish up another blank area of the slab.
The original line, more suited to a solo ascent, went up right from the overlap and finished as for Slight of Hand (12.6.02 M J Crocker).

R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 27/Jun/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Neil Rigiani 18/Oct TR dnf
with James Hill-Reid, Dave Coley
Hidden 18/Oct TR O/S
jsmcfarland 09/Aug Lead O/S

Sustained, scary and brilliant. Missed seeing the cam slot on the right somehow so the only protection until the break was the solitary RP. Worst bit of the route was making myself not just launch myself at the break once it got close enough and stay focused. Once there I put in 3 cams before committing to the top section! This route is very serious, be warned.

Hidden 11/Jul Lead β
felixizzy 18/Jun TR rpt
with shunt
felixizzy 12/Apr TR O/S

Amazing how little you can actualy stand on. May come back for a lead on this one.

with shunt
Felix Ottey 05/Apr TR O/S
Matt Amos 12/Sep/14 Lead RP

Lost my footing just above the cluster of micros and two of them held. Got up the rest of it, and found it all pretty hard and very little gear. One of the only routes that has made me want to double up on some imps! The move off the floor is very hard indeed

abtibbs 07/Sep/14 TR dog
with Jamie Roberts
zcsharp 07/Sep/14 Lead RP
Hidden 20/Aug/14 TR O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/14 TR
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd β
Hidden 27/Jul/14 2nd β
will909 27/Jul/14 Lead RP
MoWalker3 06/Jul/14 TR O/S
with shunt
bpmclimb 22/Jun/14 TR rpt
with Shunt
winter hill1 02/Jun/14 TR
wurzelinzummerset 01/Jun/14 TR dog
with Ric
wurzelinzummerset 19/Apr/14 TR dog

Had a slip off the crux, but got back on and finished.

with Nick
bpmclimb 18/Apr/14 TR rpt
with Shunt
petegunn 28/Jul/13 Lead

Some good slab action, couple of micros at the start then nothing untill the crossover with Caveman (didn't use the cam slot, seems abit off line) a good upper section to finish and managed to dodge the showers :)

with Davina
Hidden 28/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Cheese Monkey 15/Jul/13 TR dog

Looks properly bold

with Alan
skippington 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S

I reckon that's still E4 with the cam slot. And it's not an eliminate route and the gear can be placed from the line, so...anyway. Great climbing, standing on not very much.

sonic46 05/May/13 TR
Hidden 08/Dec/12 TR
Hidden 19/Sep/12 Lead RP
LukeyG 19/Sep/12 Lead

flashed on tr, put gear in a stuck it on lead

Stanners 12/Aug/12 Lead RP

First E4 Headpoint! Me happy. Good Micros low down, but your ****ed if you fall from the precarious upper moves before the break. Fair play to anyone who onsights this. That said, don't think its anything too bad for E4.

Quarryboy 12/Aug/12 2nd dog

Don't think that this can be E3 but if it is it is very much at the upper end of E3 of which I don't really have any experience of so cant say for definite whether it is that or E4. Anyway managed to onsight all of the moves except for one in the blankest section but after sitting on the rope looking for some kind of small weakness that would make it work I found a small lump which could be used as a foothold but was really unnerving to stand on. Although was able to do all the moves quickly after 3 weeks of no popper climbing and not having my head properly screwed on for anything remotely bold the prospect of doing a 12 meter section of pretty much blank protectionless slab climbing seemed like somewhat of a daunting proposition not to mention the fact that it was starting to get on a bit and there were other routes that we wanted to do. Will definitely return to do it at some point.

Andy Clarke 26/Jul/12 Lead β

Beautifully intense slab moves. Checked out upper slab when seconding Caveman, but crux onsight. Didn't use cam slot. Hard to leave ground - getting slick.

with Johnny
Pete Rigby 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Kelli Roberts
kelliroberts3 15/Jul/12 Lead β
Hidden 19/Jun/12 Lead β
riddle 02/Jun/12 Lead β

Clean ascent after failing at the first attempt

adam 24 02/Jun/12 2nd β
Hidden 24/May/12 TR dnf
bpmclimb 21/May/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
Rick Ashton 20/May/12 TR

This seemed solid on top rope. Might have to try leading it next time though as you can just slide back to the start if unable to clib the crux

with Robert Drynda
davenev 11/Oct/11 Lead RP

Slid off onto the micros at 4m - very little friction - bold move over the overlap a long way from the gear.

with mick
Gary S 08/Oct/11 TR dnf
richiebongo 04/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith, Jon Didymus
MarkRyder 02/Sep/11 Lead O/S
with James P
jamespilgrim 02/Sep/11 2nd dog

slipped at the microwires at 5m

with Mark
Pete Scott 13/Aug/11 TR O/S

Would be a nice route to get done.

with Jimbo
Aaron Phillips 27/Jul/11 TR O/S

no friction. nearly slid off several times but managed to levitate to the top by unknown means.

with my dad
Hidden 03/Jul/11 TR O/S
riddle 11/Jun/11 Lead dog

slid onto the pro at 4m, cleaned the rest of the route. What an amazing experience.

Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd
benkelsey 29/May/11 Lead RP

sagged onto no. 1 micro wire at 4 meters odd. lowered down and got back on it. committed to the right foot this time. grippy frictionless thin slab.. interesting

Hidden 29/May/11 2nd rpt
bpmclimb 09/May/11 TR rpt

I'm sure this is harder than when I first did it. Just a little less friction on one or two tiny footholds, I think.

with Shunt
bpmclimb 20/Apr/11 TR rpt
with Shunt
bpmclimb 27/Mar/11 TR rpt

Was still undecided about grade, and whether cam-slot at 6m on the R should be allowed.

with Shunt
bpmclimb 31/Jan/11 TR rpt

Guidebook checking

with Shunt
gripped01 ?/Oct/10 Lead
with Rimon Than
Hidden ?/Oct/10 -
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Didymus 03/Aug/10 Lead β

After abseil inspection. For me, crux was passing 3 micro-wires at 4m; I slipped off first go then got it second try. Bold and delicate traverse to overlap was spicey.

with Nick
Marti999 25/Jul/10 Lead β

brushed holds while lower of other route, the hard moves are not bold.

Graham C 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Marti
andy dunn 09/Aug/09 Lead dnf
with Alan
tobydunford 27/Jun/09 TR O/S

Did on a shunt, great fun

eddy-on-the-rocks 28/May/09 Lead O/S
with Geoff
ian d f ??/2009 TR
Peter Swift 28/Sep/08 TR dog

great on top rope.....come off once or twice on the lower start.....great climbing.

with Trevor
trevor macalonan 28/Sep/08 TR dog
Peter Swift ??/2008 TR dog
Silum ?/Oct/07 Lead dnf

Fell at 8m, thought i would just slide down, did so until the micowires held for a milisecond before throwing me out from the wall. Ground fall; broken talus, open dislocation; helicopter evac... 4 months recovery. Boooo!

with Anna
John_Hat 02/Sep/07 TR O/S
with Stevieblue
guy xavier percival 27/Aug/07 Solo RP
with none
freelancer_85 06/May/07 Lead dnf

Popped off at about 4m. Backed off. I'll get it next time ;o)

with Tom
Hidden 29/Apr/07 Lead RP
bpmclimb 18/Sep/06 Lead O/S

Scary moves over the overlap, with groundfall potential.

with Clare
Paul Robertson 26/Apr/06 Lead rpt
with Ben Friedland
Paul Robertson 08/Apr/06 Lead dnf

Cried off a few inches below the Caveman cracks.

with Paddy Wilson
Jon Greengrass ??/2006 2nd
chris sm ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S

First E4. (Which is really E2)

with Pippa Froggatt
KRB 16/Apr/05 Lead O/S

A classic

with Chris & Martin
cornishben ?/Jan/05 Lead rpt
with Chris Sims
Tim Steward 16/Jun/04 Lead
with Molly Thompson
mol 16/Jun/04 2nd
with Timmy
Paz ?/May/04 Lead β
with AS
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Hidden ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, joeurwin, Hidden, ianlaw, Tom Harper, BicycleBradley, nick hawkins, Dan_Carroll, freelancer_85
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 24
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set