The BMC has negotiated with the landowner and secured an access agreement, but this is dependent on the continuing responsible behavior of climbers.
Local cavers have an agreement with the landowner to manage recreation in the quarry through the Fairy Cave Management Committee. They have been extremely supportive of climber’s efforts to secure access and without their support it is unlikely we would have been successful. Mark Courtiour (BMC Access Rep) has been co-opted onto the Management Committee but the cavers have overall responsibility for recreational use of the quarry.
Maintaining our good relationship with the cavers is important, as is following a few simple points within our access agreement:
Descents:
Movement around the top of some areas of the quarry can be difficult and local climbers have established abseil descents from all popular areas. Please do not remove these fixtures. Most lower offs/abseil points have been renewed and stakes have been installed above Robs Crack and Lumbar Puncture/Epic Dural. As always with fixed equipment, be sure to thoroughly inspect all parts of an anchor before committing to using it.
Rockfax Description
Bold and thin moves with limited protection. Begin 3m to the left of the diagonal grass strip that divides The Glacis and left of a thin seam. Precarious moves gain a reasonable hold at 6m (cam slot out to the right). Head up and then leftwards past a small overlap to reach the line of Caveman/Lunar Landscape. Move left and finish up the bald slab. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A sought-after lead! Start 3m left of the grassy ramp, just left of a hairline crack. Make hard moves, past microwire placements at 4m, to reach a good hold (slightly offline to the right at 6m is a cam slot: possibly E3 using this, more direct and bolder without). Climb up and then leftwards over a tiny overlap to good cracks (on Caveman); then step left again to finish up another blank area of the slab.
The original line, more suited to a solo ascent, went up right from the overlap and finished as for Slight of Hand.
FA. R.A.Broomhead, J.Stanbury 27/Jun/2002.
Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20 , Fairy cave hard stuff , 2024
User | Date | Notes | ||
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danieljames123 | 5 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: When it says microwires, it definitely means micro! Peenuts are too big, think brassies or swedges. | ||
Show beta
βeta: When it says microwires, it definitely means micro! Peenuts are too big, think brassies or swedges. |
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Grade: E4 6a ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)