Somerset > Fairy Cave Quarry >
 
Glacial Point** E4 5c

Adjacent Climbs
<< Misdirection
 
Slight of Hand >>
[Fairy cave Quarry Rescue Me!, 2 kb]25m. A sought-after lead! Start 3m left of the grassy ramp, just left of a hairline crack. Make hard moves, past microwire placements at 4m, to reach a good hold (cam in a slot on the right at 6m: the route is possibly E3 if this is placed). Climb up and then leftwards over a tiny overlap to good cracks (on Caveman); then step left again to finish up another blank area of the slab. The original line, more suited to a solo ascent, went up right from the overlap and finished as for Slight of Hand (12.6.02 M J Crocker).
R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 27/Jun/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Photo: Fairy cave Quarry Rescue Me! © Silum
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 75 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Hidden - TR O/S - 20/Aug/14

Steve Woollard - TR - 20/Aug/14 with Samantha Roach

Hidden - 2nd β - 27/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd β - 27/Jul/14

will909 - Lead RP - 27/Jul/14

MoWalker3 - TR O/S - 06/Jul/14 with shunt

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 22/Jun/14 with Shunt

winter hill1 - TR - 02/Jun/14

wurzelinzummerset - TR dog - 01/Jun/14 with Ric

Had a slip off the crux, but got back on and finished.
wurzelinzummerset - TR dog - 19/Apr/14 with Nick

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 18/Apr/14 with Shunt

Some good slab action, couple of micros at the start then nothing untill the crossover with Caveman (didn't use the cam slot, seems abit off line) a good upper section to finish and managed to dodge the showers :)
petegunn - Lead - 28/Jul/13 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Jul/13

Looks properly bold
Cheese Monkey - TR dog - 15/Jul/13 with Alan

I reckon that's still E4 with the cam slot. And it's not an eliminate route and the gear can be placed from the line, so...anyway. Great climbing, standing on not very much.
skippington - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13

sonic46 - TR - 05/May/13

Hidden - TR - 08/Dec/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 19/Sep/12

flashed on tr, put gear in a stuck it on lead
LukeyG - Lead - 19/Sep/12

First E4 Headpoint! Me happy. Good Micros low down, but your ****ed if you fall from the precarious upper moves before the break. Fair play to anyone who onsights this. That said, don't think its anything too bad for E4.
Stanners - Lead RP - 12/Aug/12 with Mark Davis, Jack Bradbrook

Don't think that this can be E3 but if it is it is very much at the upper end of E3 of which I don't really have any experience of so cant say for definite whether it is that or E4. Anyway managed to onsight all of the moves except for one in the blankest section but after sitting on the rope looking for some kind of small weakness that would make it work I found a small lump which could be used as a foothold but was really unnerving to stand on. Although was able to do all the moves quickly after 3 weeks of no popper climbing and not having my head properly screwed on for anything remotely bold the prospect of doing a 12 meter section of pretty much blank protectionless slab climbing seemed like somewhat of a daunting proposition not to mention the fact that it was starting to get on a bit and there were other routes that we wanted to do. Will definitely return to do it at some point.
Quarryboy - 2nd dog - 12/Aug/12 with Rob Stanfield, Mark Davies

Beautifully intense slab moves. Checked out upper slab when seconding Caveman, but crux onsight. Didn't use cam slot. Hard to leave ground - getting slick.
Andy Clarke - Lead β - 26/Jul/12 with Johnny

Pete Rigby - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Kelli Roberts

kelliroberts3 - Lead β - 15/Jul/12 with Peter Rigby

Hidden - Lead β - 19/Jun/12

Clean ascent after failing at the first attempt
riddle - Lead β - 02/Jun/12 with Adam Ryan

adam 24 - 2nd β - 02/Jun/12

Hidden - TR dnf - 24/May/12

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 21/May/12 with Shunt

This seemed solid on top rope. Might have to try leading it next time though as you can just slide back to the start if unable to clib the crux
Rick Ashton - TR - 20/May/12 with Robert Drynda

Slid off onto the micros at 4m - very little friction - bold move over the overlap a long way from the gear.
davenev - Lead RP - 11/Oct/11 with mick

Gary S - TR dnf - 08/Oct/11 with Chris Cowdrey

richiebongo - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/11 with Nick Smith, Jon Didymus

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with James P

slipped at the microwires at 5m
jamespilgrim - 2nd dog - 02/Sep/11 with Mark

Would be a nice route to get done.
Pete Scott - TR O/S - 13/Aug/11 with Jimbo

no friction. nearly slid off several times but managed to levitate to the top by unknown means.
Aaron Phillips - TR O/S - 27/Jul/11 with my dad

Hidden - TR O/S - 03/Jul/11

slid onto the pro at 4m, cleaned the rest of the route. What an amazing experience.
riddle - Lead dog - 11/Jun/11

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jun/11

sagged onto no. 1 micro wire at 4 meters odd. lowered down and got back on it. committed to the right foot this time. grippy frictionless thin slab.. interesting
benkelsey - Lead RP - 29/May/11 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/May/11

I'm sure this is harder than when I first did it. Just a little less friction on one or two tiny footholds, I think.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 09/May/11 with Shunt

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 20/Apr/11 with Shunt

Was still undecided about grade, and whether cam-slot at 6m on the R should be allowed.
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 27/Mar/11 with Shunt

Guidebook checking
bpmclimb - TR rpt - 31/Jan/11 with Shunt

gripped01 - Lead - Oct/10 with Rimon Than

Hidden - Oct/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/10

After abseil inspection. For me, crux was passing 3 micro-wires at 4m; I slipped off first go then got it second try. Bold and delicate traverse to overlap was spicey.
Jon Didymus - Lead β - 03/Aug/10 with Nick

brushed holds while lower of other route, the hard moves are not bold.
Marti999 - Lead β - 25/Jul/10 with Anna, Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Marti

andy dunn - Lead dnf - 09/Aug/09 with Alan

Did on a shunt, great fun
tobydunford - TR O/S - 27/Jun/09

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 28/May/09 with Geoff

ian d f - TR - 2009

great on top rope.....come off once or twice on the lower start.....great climbing.
Peter Swift - TR dog - 28/Sep/08 with Trevor

trevor macalonan - TR dog - 28/Sep/08 with pete swift

Peter Swift - TR dog - 2008 with trevor macalonan

Fell at 8m, thought i would just slide down, did so until the micowires held for a milisecond before throwing me out from the wall. Ground fall; broken talus, open dislocation; helicopter evac... 4 months recovery. Boooo!
Silum - Lead dnf - Oct/07 with Anna

John_Hat - TR O/S - 02/Sep/07 with Stevieblue

guy xavier percival - Solo RP - 27/Aug/07 with none

Popped off at about 4m. Backed off. I'll get it next time ;o)
freelancer_85 - Lead dnf - 06/May/07 with Tom

Hidden - Lead RP - 29/Apr/07

Scary moves over the overlap, with groundfall potential.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/06 with Clare

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 26/Apr/06 with Ben Friedland

Cried off a few inches below the Caveman cracks.
Paul Robertson - Lead dnf - 08/Apr/06 with Paddy Wilson

Jon Greengrass - 2nd - 2006 with Mark Stevenson

First E4. (Which is really E2)
chris sm - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Pippa Froggatt

A classic
KRB - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/05 with Chris & Martin

cornishben - Lead rpt - Jan/05 with Chris Sims

Tim Steward - Lead - 16/Jun/04 with Molly Thompson

mol - 2nd - 16/Jun/04 with Timmy

Paz - Lead β - May/04 with AS

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/03

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Tom Harper, BicycleBradley, nick hawkins, Dan_Carroll, freelancer_85

Voting
Total votes cast 58
hard E50 of 21
E50 of 21
easy E50 of 21
hard E40 of 21
E414 of 21
easy E43 of 21
hard E34 of 21
E30 of 21
easy E30 of 21
hard 6a0 of 20
6a0 of 20
easy 6a0 of 20
hard 5c4 of 20
5c15 of 20
easy 5c1 of 20
hard 5b0 of 20
5b0 of 20
easy 5b0 of 20
3 Stars4 of 17
2 Stars9 of 17
1 Star2 of 17
0 Stars2 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 75 (1.3%)
Lead34 of 75 (45.3%)
Followed11 of 75 (14.7%)
Toproped28 of 75 (37.3%)
Unknown1 of 75 (1.3%)

'Climbed'14 of 75 (18.7%)
clean O/S18 of 75 (24.0%)
clean β10 of 75 (13.3%)
clean rpt11 of 75 (14.7%)
clean RP7 of 75 (9.3%)
dogged9 of 75 (12.0%)
dnf6 of 75 (8.0%)