14m. Start under the obvious tree belay at a small overhanging block. Climb up, slightly right, and then back left to the tree.

R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 24/Apr/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Mayaculpa 17/Oct TR
with Andrew V, Jennie
Mayaculpa 15/Oct TR
with Mike Rotraxion
steve_gibbs 04/Oct Lead rpt
George Frisby 04/Oct 2nd O/S
Chris Sieradzki 20/Sep 2nd O/S
with Hooo
Hooo 20/Sep Lead dog

Bold and delicate. Finally got a decent no.3 micro in, then my foot slipped off a damp polished hold and I slumped onto it. Went off route in the middle to place a tricam, making it harder than it needed to be, without actually making it any less run out. Top section is exciting, but felt fine 'cos I wasn't going to deck if I fluffed it (unlike the start).

jsmcfarland 09/Aug 2nd O/S

Great lead by Olly, especially considering he hasn't been climbing much! Pretty hard moves and not all that well protected, especially if you miss crucial placements! (Olly!)

Hidden 08/Aug 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jul 2nd
will_benfold 11/Jul Lead rpt
johnl 04/Jul Lead O/S
with Simon Fowler, Adam Perrett
Paul Baller 04/Jul Lead O/S
with matt stevens
Trippinjester 04/Jul TR O/S
Adam Perrett 04/Jul TR O/S
with Simon Fowler, Sarah Perrett, John Leonard
stalbot93 24/Jun Lead O/S
Keelan McNulty 24/Jun 2nd dog
Hidden 14/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Jun 2nd rpt
miriamclaire 25/May 2nd O/S
with hutchay
hutchay 25/May Lead rpt
with Miriam Billig
cdpuk 10/May 2nd O/S

Good lead from Hammond. Bold if you stay properly on route.

Hidden 10/May 2nd dog
Hidden 10/May Lead O/S
Ian JL 12/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Oct/14 Lead
zcsharp 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with John Harris, Steve Gibbs
steve_gibbs 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with John Harris, Jamie Roberts
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Echna 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Dalinda, Rich
Hidden 17/Sep/14 Lead O/S
maddy92 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
steve-grigg 06/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Aug/14 TR
Rob Morgan 27/Jul/14 2nd
MoWalker3 23/Jul/14 -
with Cormac
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
trwolfe13 29/Jun/14 2nd dog

Slipped twice at the start, because of shoddy footwork. Rest of it was clean.

cameron_hall 29/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Done properly this time (no escaping onto the VDiff for a rest).

thomb 23/Jun/14 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Quite bold until you get the first good nut in at about 5-7 meters height.

with Jana
wurzelinzummerset 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Ric
bonelessivar 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Alan
Tom F Harding 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Lots of micro placements, bring your small stuff

Steve Bartle 31/May/14 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 19/May/14 Lead rpt
nicknicely 19/May/14 2nd
with brian
felixizzy 18/May/14 Lead O/S

Proper elvis leg trying to place first bit of gear. Scary but a lot of fun.

with Sean
davenev 15/May/14 Lead O/S
with David
drgrange 15/May/14 2nd
with davenev
jon bradley 03/May/14 Lead rpt
with Huw Howells
Hidden 30/Mar/14 2nd
Tristypants 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Bec Chalkley
BenFitzG 16/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 02/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Adrian Daniels 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with John Parrott
AndyF 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
MartinN 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
jon bradley 20/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Huw Howells
mick1jones 13/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Mike Guttridge
Felix Ottey 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Fantastic route bold start fine though if u keep your head in gear!

cameron_hall 30/Jun/13 Lead dog

Not so much dogged as cheated - I took a couple of rests by moving straight right onto the crack of Minute Waltz before returning straight left.

will_benfold 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Cameron
bpmclimb 19/Jun/13 2nd rpt
with Richard
Neil Gay 10/Jun/13 Lead RP

Head pointed

BenBird 10/Jun/13 TR

Just having a look.

gjh 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

My first E1 on-sight!

tcoombe1 ?/Jun/13 Lead
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Steve27 09/Sep/12 TR
gilmourheid 09/Sep/12 TR O/S
with Steve27
mattc 03/Sep/12 Lead RP
Jobbo 03/Sep/12 2nd O/S

First E1 for Matt. Nice one!

Hidden 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Aug/12 2nd O/S
sonic46 12/Aug/12 Lead
LukeyG 12/Aug/12 Lead

Some hard thin moves at the bottom until gear and jug higher

Kayan 06/May/12 Lead O/S
wurzelinzummerset 15/Apr/12 TR
with Mick
Dawlish 21/Feb/12 2nd

Second dave up this one for a warm up

Bristoldave 20/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with Dawlish, Mark
Hidden 14/Oct/11 2nd dog
nick hawkins 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
jpksalmon 10/Oct/11 TR dog

A few slips. Cloudy. First E graded route.

with Hannah
Hidden ?/Oct/11 TR
will909 03/Sep/11 Lead RP
hutchay 24/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Louise Ayliffe
Dawlish 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
stuntsbyjon ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
riddle 11/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead RP
will909 21/May/11 TR
will909 21/May/11 TR β
jon bradley 04/May/11 Lead rpt
with Brian Vaughan
bpmclimb 20/Apr/11 Lead rpt

Probably E1

with Clare
Hidden 16/Apr/11 Lead rpt
bpmclimb 28/Mar/11 TR rpt

Low E2 or high E1 - can't decide.

with Shunt
jezb1 11/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Nice moves, perhaps a bit soft for E2?

Hidden 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Didymus 13/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Fell off and scraped my way down slab luckily without injury. Got back on and sent it without problems.

with Rich
kiwi boy 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

No gear for the first 6 metres. Tough moves to the first piece of gear. Reassuring holds and smears to finish perhaps worth two stars.

with Greg K
bpmclimb 05/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Marti999 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Graham C 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Marti
ian d f 27/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Claire Durant
paul1234 27/Jun/09 2nd
with luke
luke13 27/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Paul
cas smerdon 24/Jun/09 TR
with bob & chris
Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S
deklan 10/May/09 Lead
with dad
Hidden 01/Mar/09 TR
Hidden 01/Mar/09 TR O/S
vertigo 19/Oct/08 Lead β

1st E2 Lead.

MarkRyder 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Rich
bpmclimb 23/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Clare
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
richardr ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
James Moyle 08/May/08 Lead rpt

Found it difficult to get some of the protection to sit - need offsets!

with D. Murphy
jon bradley 07/May/08 Lead β
with Matt Pearcey
Hidden 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Ben1983 05/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/May/08 2nd O/S
petegunn ??/2008 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 2nd O/S
Urgles 18/Sep/07 TR O/S

done on shunt

Richard Fox 15/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Kevin VC
Matt Tranter 15/Sep/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 02/Sep/07 Lead
guy xavier percival 27/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with none
freelancer_85 17/Aug/07 Lead rpt
with Megan
Paul Robertson 11/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Hannah Redmond
maybe_si 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with jamie
Hidden 29/Jul/07 2nd O/S
AJM 11/Jul/07 Lead O/S

Nice climbing, some good moves on it. Decent gear higher up but thin to start off.

JimR ?/Jul/07 2nd
with AJM
Hidden 01/Jun/07 TR
freelancer_85 02/May/07 Lead O/S

Felt harder then Back Off, but it was the end of the day and I was a bit tired.

with Megan
jon bradley ?/May/07 Lead β

Pre-placed gear

with Dave Card
MarkR 15/Apr/07 TR
Hidden 09/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/06 TR
bpmclimb 31/May/06 Lead O/S
with Clare
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
_m.cox_ ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Davis
chris sm ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
gripped01 ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Paul, Lyneham
KRB 07/May/05 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/04 Lead O/S
petegunn 04/Jul/04 Lead
with Charlotte
just one more 15/Jun/04 Lead
with karen b, Max B
Hidden 12/Jun/04 -
just one more 12/Jun/04 Lead
with tim b, Svenn G
Paz ?/May/04 Lead
with AS
Hidden ??/2004 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Digger 05/May/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
Digger 05/May/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
chris sm ?/May/03 Lead O/S
cornishben ?/Jan/03 Lead O/S


Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, petecallaghan, jhobbs, RobScarisbrick, Hidden, Hooo, Tom Harper, jopayne1988, Hidden, Hidden, Owen W-G, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 24
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 33
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set