28m. Quite bold and insecure in places: high in the grade. Start at the lowest point of the right-hand slab of the Glacis. Climb straight up past the blast pocket and trend slightly right up the slab above (thin) to reach a ledge and sapling. From the left end of the ledge, make bold moves up and left to gain a shallow runnel, which is followed to the top of the slab. Go up grassy ledges to a lower off.

R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 01/Jun/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Mayaculpa 17/Oct TR
with Mike Rotraxion
WillAndrew 17/Oct Lead O/S
Tom F Harding 17/Oct 2nd rpt
Wendy Watthews 03/Oct 2nd O/S
with Tom FP
Hidden 03/Oct Lead rpt
Gaz of Bath 09/Sep Lead O/S
kelliroberts3 19/Aug Lead O/S
Fjsinclair 08/Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/Jul Lead O/S
51fizzycheeky 11/Jul TR O/S
Hidden 11/Jul Lead O/S
Laurence20 09/Jul Solo O/S
johnl 04/Jul Lead β
with Simon Fowler, Sarah Perrett, Adam Perrett
Hidden 04/Jul 2nd rpt
Paul Baller 04/Jul Lead O/S

Hvs at most. Limited gear but easy climbing.

with matt stevens
Hidden 04/Jul Lead O/S
Trippinjester 04/Jul Lead O/S
Adam Perrett 04/Jul TR O/S
with Simon Fowler, Sarah Perrett, John Leonard
Hidden 18/Jun TR
Hidden 14/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Jun 2nd rpt
Hidden 09/Jun Lead rpt
onlyfoddington 05/Jun TR O/S
Hugobristol 28/May Lead O/S

Well protected good climbing.

with Riccy, Pippa
Hidden 28/May 2nd β
miriamclaire 25/May Lead O/S
with hutchay
hutchay 25/May 2nd
with Miriam Billig
cdpuk 10/May Lead O/S

Nice clean route.

Hidden 10/May 2nd
Hidden 10/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 02/May Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Apr 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Apr Lead
Hidden 18/Apr 2nd rpt
petegunn 11/Apr Lead
with Davina
Hidden 11/Apr 2nd rpt
timstyles 02/Oct/14 Lead rpt

Steady with nice moves. Used several micro wires.

with Huw Howells
zcsharp 28/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with John Harris, Steve Gibbs
steve_gibbs 27/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with John Harris, Jamie Roberts
Hidden 27/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Echna 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Dalinda, Rich
steve-grigg 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
maddy92 06/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 05/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Sep/14 2nd
Hidden 22/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/14 2nd O/S
MoWalker3 30/Jul/14 -
with Cormac
Hidden 28/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 20/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Soft 5b climbing with loads of good gear. Really enjoyed this one.

with Jana
lazzaw 18/Jun/14 TR rpt
with Steve Banford, Jonathan Cook
wurzelinzummerset 01/Jun/14 2nd
with Ric
bonelessivar 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing with marginal gear.

with Alan
shim ?/Jun/14 2nd
mikedevcole 26/May/14 Lead RP

Tope roped once after Dave C has lead Minute Waltz for a warm-up. Decided to lead afterwards. First E1.

bpmclimb 19/May/14 Lead rpt
nicknicely 19/May/14 2nd
with brian
Nevil 19/May/14 Lead
with Vince
Vincej 19/May/14 2nd
with Nevil
felixizzy 14/May/14 Lead O/S
with Craig
Adrian Daniels 05/May/14 Lead O/S
with Steve Webster
bpmclimb 19/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Kirsten
kirsten 19/Apr/14 2nd
with Brian
BALD EAGLE 12/Apr/14 2nd
with Kevin Van Colina
J.Atkins 10/Apr/14 2nd rpt
Ian JL 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Dizz 16/Mar/14 Lead O/S

E2 5b probably fairer grade for the gear.

with Simon P
BenFitzG 16/Mar/14 2nd
si_pro_83 16/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Liz
The Ivanator 15/Mar/14 TR O/S

Some nice moves, did curving leftwards runnel finish.

with Toby, Rich
Patrick Clissold 14/Mar/14 Lead
with Will Laws
Rich God 3 09/Mar/14 2nd
sonic46 24/Nov/13 TR O/S

Tried to lead, a little greasy and the side pull near the sapling 2/3 of the way up was full of mud! so took a fall here - unfortunately the small nuts didn't hold, but did slow me down. Great belaying from Matt - thank you Great climb on the top rope - maybe next time with pre placed gear :)

Luke Davies 06/Oct/13 Lead
Tristypants 01/Oct/13 Lead O/S
with Helen Eden
Hidden 21/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Aug/13 2nd O/S
jezb1 11/Aug/13 Lead


Hidden 11/Aug/13 2nd
AndyF 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Great climb... well run out. Micro cams come in very useful!

Chazwoz 01/Aug/13 Lead O/S
jon bradley 20/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Huw Howells
cameron_hall 30/Jun/13 2nd O/S
will_benfold 30/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Cameron
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Solo rpt
markfromstoke 20/Jun/13 Lead
with Steve N
bpmclimb 19/Jun/13 Lead rpt
with Richard
katherinesydney 05/Jun/13 2nd rpt

With one harness between two for added faff

lazzaw 05/Jun/13 TR O/S
with Steve Banford, Jonathan Cook
Hidden 03/Jun/13 Lead O/S
Steve27 18/May/13 Lead
lazzaw 02/May/13 TR O/S

Had set up a toprope for the kids to climb Minute Waltz so seemed a shame not to give it a go. Lovely climbing although, had I been leading, sketchy gear placements widely spaced would have lead to some Elvis leg.

with Steve Banford, Jude
jon_ridley 17/Apr/13 Lead


Hidden 17/Apr/13 2nd
Tom F Harding 30/Sep/12 Lead rpt

Some of the small placments are getting pretty worn.

homing-penguin 19/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S
Steve27 09/Sep/12 Lead
gilmourheid 09/Sep/12 Lead dog

Had a wee fall near the half way tree.

with Steve27
Hidden 03/Sep/12 Lead O/S
wilkinscl ?/Sep/12 -
Hidden 23/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/12 Lead O/S
LukeyG 12/Aug/12 Lead
Felix Ottey 29/Jul/12 Lead O/S

My first E1 Lead. Hard poorly protected climbing but with good rest points that allow you to take your time. I thoroughly enjoyed it!

stuntsbyjon 28/Jul/12 2nd β
upontop 22/Jul/12 Lead
with Sophie
Hidden 09/Jun/12 Lead O/S
riddle 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
adam 24 02/Jun/12 2nd β
Dawlish 30/May/12 2nd O/S
with pete
katherinesydney 24/May/12 2nd O/S
with bill naylor, mike kann
Kayan 06/May/12 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 02/May/12 Lead rpt

With gear in situ.

with Mick
BALD EAGLE 31/Mar/12 Lead
with Rob Horler
tomshanti 27/Mar/12 2nd rpt

tough,great.flowed nicely as second this time

bpmclimb 26/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with Alan
wurzelinzummerset 26/Mar/12 2nd
with Brian
Samuel P 25/Mar/12 TR O/S
Hidden 25/Mar/12 TR O/S
lukerathmell 24/Mar/12 Lead rpt
with steve
Steve27 24/Mar/12 TR
Steve27 24/Mar/12 Lead
lukerathmell 24/Mar/12 Lead
with steve
robbie Warke 18/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Only 5a E1mmm maybe

with Paula Warke
Hidden 10/Mar/12 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 31/Jan/12 TR rpt
with Shunt
J.Atkins 21/Jan/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 14/Oct/11 Lead O/S
nick hawkins 14/Oct/11 2nd
jpksalmon 10/Oct/11 TR O/S


with Hannah
Hidden ?/Oct/11 TR
hutchay 24/Aug/11 Lead rpt
Chrissie Baylis 21/Aug/11 TR RP

Finally did it

with Cerberus1956
Neil Watson 14/Aug/11 TR O/S
Sam..Oliver 30/Jul/11 Lead
stpauliblade 30/Jul/11 2nd
stpauliblade 30/Jul/11 Lead
Aaron Phillips 27/Jul/11 2nd O/S

very easy (but no gear) and graded E2 in Wiki Topos.

with my dad
Dawlish 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S

can't decide if this is E2 or hard E1

timstyles 27/Jul/11 2nd β
Hidden 11/Jul/11 Lead
Hidden 11/Jul/11 2nd
mick1jones 10/Jul/11 2nd β

Tried leading it and bottled it and went off route as gear was small and spaced (RP's)

with Rich Rogers
Paul Robertson 11/Jun/11 Lead rpt

RH finish

Urgles 11/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Paul Robertson
MajorRS 21/May/11 2nd O/S
TomBaker 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Jessica Jackson, Dan Warren
hutchay 16/May/11 Lead O/S
with Ricky Straw
Hidden 16/May/11 2nd
will909 15/May/11 Lead RP
jon bradley 04/May/11 Lead rpt
with Brian Vaughan
Hidden ?/May/11 TR
bpmclimb 20/Apr/11 TR rpt
with Shunt
joeurwin 09/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Neil Gay
Neil Gay 09/Apr/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 20/Mar/11 Lead rpt

High in the grade - insecure climbing above not very convincing protection. Some FCQ E2s are less worrying, eg Jive Talkin', or Back Off.

with Helen S
Hidden 20/Mar/11 2nd β
nick hawkins 12/Oct/10 Lead O/S
davenev 10/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Great route - mid section crux and nice flowing sequence to finish

with luke
Mr Tickle 10/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Loved this climb, really nice moves. Comfortable E1.

with davenev
cas smerdon 01/Sep/10 TR
with mark joyce
SharonC1604 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S

My first extreme climb - loved it.

karenhh 30/Aug/10 2nd
jezb1 23/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Really enjoyable and quite run out.

Tom_Harding 08/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Tim
bpmclimb 05/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
Si dH 27/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Great route, surely at least 2* Thought it was hard for E1 - sustained climbing, with only just adequate (and very fiddly) gear most of the way up. The last move to the ledge, and the last move to the jug in the top groove, were both hard 5b. Really enjoyed flowing up it on second though - one of those routes :)

with Jim R
wilf 25/Jul/10 TR

took the opportunity of top rope with nick having led minute waltz. felt comfortable, thought pro potential looked ok

with nick f
Marti999 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Graham C 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Marti
Philip de-Beger 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Nice climb. A bit soft for E1. Got in much more gear than expected and most of it was good.

with Andrew Hill
kiwi boy 24/Jul/10 2nd

first bit of gear a real shocker for phil. good gear otherwise so much so that had to strip out two on the absail back down Six in total. two 5b moves half way up and 2/3 up. Interesting finish

with phil
Tom F Harding ??/2010 Lead β
ian d f 27/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Tom_Harding 16/Aug/09 Lead β
with Gordy
Greg Pittam 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Claire Durant
Hidden 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
WoD 30/Jul/09 TR O/S

First E1 climb. Quite a lot of nice holds.

with Sophie
sofe13 20/Jul/09 2nd

Easier than expected, well chuffed! gear was hard, Juls moaned a lot about it, though she seemed to find the climb easy enough

with Juls
jon thompson27 03/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with simon mayell
cas smerdon 24/Jun/09 TR
with bob & chris
paul1234 12/Jun/09 2nd
with luke
luke13 03/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Paul
Hidden 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S
tobydunford 31/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/09 2nd
petegunn 28/May/09 Lead
with Davina
Hidden 28/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 26/May/09 Lead O/S
joeurwin 13/Apr/09 2nd O/S
with alex
AlexD 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
jon bradley 20/Mar/09 Lead rpt
with Huw Howells
bazzag 15/Mar/09 TR
with alison,reece,ollie and ryan
MarkRyder 20/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Lee
upontop 26/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with Chris
timharrison 13/Jul/08 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 23/Jun/08 Lead rpt
with Clare
richardr ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/08 Lead O/S
cem 27/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Dan from Stroud
Hidden 26/Apr/08 2nd O/S
beardy mike ??/2008 -
petegunn ??/2008 Lead
Paul Robertson 14/Oct/07 Lead rpt
Urgles 16/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Clare
Richard Fox 15/Sep/07 2nd O/S
with Baldeagle
JPGR 26/Aug/07 2nd O/S
with Andy
Hidden 23/Aug/07 Solo rpt
Matt Tranter 11/Aug/07 Lead
guy xavier percival 09/Aug/07 Solo O/S
with none
Jen79 ?/Aug/07 2nd
with Matt Tranter
Dan_Carroll 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
JimR ?/Jul/07 Lead
with AJM
Hidden 01/Jun/07 TR
freelancer_85 29/May/07 Lead O/S
with Toby and Megan
bpmclimb 22/May/07 Lead rpt

Not very comforting gear

with Clare, Mike L, Val
Ybot Htulk ?/May/07 2nd
with Josh & Megan
jon bradley ?/May/07 Lead β

Pre-placed gear

with Dave Card
kevinknights 07/Apr/07 2nd O/S

Good climbing

John_Hat ??/2007 Lead O/S
with Various
Hidden 09/Jul/06 Lead rpt
Phil Murray 08/Jul/06 Lead β

My first E1. I think. "High in the grade"... - yikes! Thin.

with Steve Wright
Hidden 01/Jul/06 2nd O/S
bpmclimb 11/May/06 Lead O/S
with Clare
Epic Ebdon 06/May/06 2nd O/S
with James Wasiak
Hidden 22/Apr/06 2nd O/S
gaz.marshall ??/2006 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
cornishben ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Chris Sims
chris sm ?/Aug/05 Lead O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
KRB 07/May/05 Solo O/S
James Moyle 01/May/05 Lead dog

Fell about 30ft from the crux!

with D. Murphy
Hidden 17/Feb/05 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
petegunn 04/Jul/04 Lead
with Charlotte
daza 13/Jun/04 Lead
with Ed
just one more 28/May/04 Lead
with tim b
Paz ?/May/04 Lead
with AS
Urgles ?/May/04 Lead O/S
with Francis Lickerish
Hidden ??/2004 Lead
Digger 20/May/03 2nd O/S
with James Latham
chris sm ?/May/03 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
petecallaghan, Hidden, acer2012, Hidden, RobScarisbrick, Hooo, Tom Harper, Hidden, kenneM, JoshT91, Hidden, Hidden
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 48
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 44
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set