Strictly Ballroom* E1 5b
[Pausing to place some hopeless gear on Strictly Ballroom, E2 5b, Fairy Cave Quarry, 2 kb]28m. Quite bold and insecure in places: high in the grade. Start at the lowest point of the right-hand slab of the Glacis. Climb straight up past the blast pocket and trend slightly right up the slab above (thin) to reach a ledge and sapling. From the left end of the ledge, make bold moves up and left to gain a shallow runnel, which is followed to the top of the slab. Go up grassy ledges to a lower off.
R A Broomhead, J Stanbury 01/Jun/2002

Ticklists: Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20.

Photo: Pausing to place some hopeless gear on Strictly Ballroom, E2 5b, Fairy Cave Quarry © drcorbasisgod

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 209 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

Steady with nice moves. Used several micro wires.
timstyles - Lead rpt - 02/Oct/14 with Huw Howells

zcsharp - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/14 with John Harris, Steve Gibbs

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 27/Sep/14 with John Harris, Jamie Roberts

Scuzlebut - 2nd rpt - 27/Sep/14 with Dalinda, Gregor

Echna - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/14 with Dalinda, Rich

steve-grigg - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/14 with David Maddison

maddy92 - 2nd O/S - 06/Sep/14 with steve-grigg

Hidden - Lead rpt - 05/Sep/14

Steve Woollard - 2nd - 05/Sep/14 with Samantha Roach

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Aug/14

MoWalker3 - 30/Jul/14 with Cormac

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 28/Jul/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/14

Scuzlebut - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Matt

Soft 5b climbing with loads of good gear. Really enjoyed this one.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/14 with Jana

lazzaw - TR rpt - 18/Jun/14 with Steve Banford, Jonathan Cook

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 01/Jun/14 with Ric

Really nice climbing with marginal gear.
bonelessivar - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Alan

shim - 2nd - Jun/14

Tope roped once after Dave C has lead Minute Waltz for a warm-up. Decided to lead afterwards. First E1.
mikedevcole - Lead RP - 26/May/14

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/May/14 with Nick Nicely

nicknicely - 2nd - 19/May/14 with brian

Hidden - Lead - 19/May/14

Vincej - 2nd - 19/May/14 with Nevil

felixizzy - Lead O/S - 14/May/14 with Craig

Adrian Daniels - Lead O/S - 05/May/14 with Steve Webster

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/14 with Kirsten

kirsten - 2nd - 19/Apr/14 with Brian

BALD EAGLE - 2nd - 12/Apr/14 with Kevin Van Colina

J.Atkins - 2nd rpt - 10/Apr/14

Ian JL - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/14

E2 5b probably fairer grade for the gear.
Dizz - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Simon P

Phoebus - 2nd - 16/Mar/14

si_pro_83 - 2nd O/S - 16/Mar/14 with Liz

Some nice moves, did curving leftwards runnel finish.
The Ivanator - TR O/S - 15/Mar/14 with Toby, Rich

Patrick Clissold - Lead - 14/Mar/14 with Will Laws

Rich God 3 - 2nd - 09/Mar/14 with The Ivanator

Tried to lead, a little greasy and the side pull near the sapling 2/3 of the way up was full of mud! so took a fall here - unfortunately the small nuts didn't hold, but did slow me down. Great belaying from Matt - thank you Great climb on the top rope - maybe next time with pre placed gear :)
sonic46 - TR O/S - 24/Nov/13 with Matt Page

Luke Davies - Lead - 06/Oct/13

Tristypants - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/13 with Helen Eden

Steve Woollard - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/13 with Samantha Roach

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Aug/13

Rpt
jezb1 - Lead - 11/Aug/13

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Aug/13

Great climb... well run out. Micro cams come in very useful!
AndyF - Lead O/S - 02/Aug/13

Chazwoz - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/13 with Peter Rigby

jon bradley - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/13 with Huw Howells

cameron_hall - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Will Benfold

will_benfold - Lead O/S - 30/Jun/13 with Cameron

Hidden - Solo rpt - 26/Jun/13

markfromstoke - Lead - 20/Jun/13 with Steve N

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/13 with Richard

With one harness between two for added faff
katherinesydney - 2nd rpt - 05/Jun/13 with rick sewards

lazzaw - TR O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Steve Banford, Jonathan Cook

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead - 18/May/13

Had set up a toprope for the kids to climb Minute Waltz so seemed a shame not to give it a go. Lovely climbing although, had I been leading, sketchy gear placements widely spaced would have lead to some Elvis leg.
lazzaw - TR O/S - 02/May/13 with Steve Banford, Jude

excellent
jon_ridley - Lead - 17/Apr/13 with Paul Poudevigne-Durance, Jonny Forster

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Apr/13

Some of the small placments are getting pretty worn.
Tom F Harding - Lead rpt - 30/Sep/12

homing-penguin - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead - 09/Sep/12

Had a wee fall near the half way tree.
gilmourheid - Lead dog - 09/Sep/12 with Steve27

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Sep/12

wilkinscl - Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/12

LukeyG - Lead - 12/Aug/12

My first E1 Lead. Hard poorly protected climbing but with good rest points that allow you to take your time. I thoroughly enjoyed it!
Felix Ottey - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/12

stuntsbyjon - 2nd β - 28/Jul/12

upontop - Lead - 22/Jul/12 with Sophie

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12

riddle - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Adam Ryan

adam 24 - 2nd β - 02/Jun/12

Dawlish - 2nd O/S - 30/May/12 with pete

katherinesydney - 2nd O/S - 24/May/12 with bill naylor, mike kann

Kayan - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Rachel leese

With gear in situ.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 02/May/12 with Mick

BALD EAGLE - Lead - 31/Mar/12 with Rob Horler

tough,great.flowed nicely as second this time
tomshanti - 2nd rpt - 27/Mar/12 with Luke Partridge

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 26/Mar/12 with Alan

wurzelinzummerset - 2nd - 26/Mar/12 with Brian

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/Mar/12

tp45597 - TR O/S - 25/Mar/12 with dave, sam

lukerathmell - Lead rpt - 24/Mar/12 with steve

Hidden - TR - 24/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 24/Mar/12

lukerathmell - Lead - 24/Mar/12 with steve

Only 5a E1mmm maybe
robbie Warke - Lead O/S - 18/Mar/12 with Paula Warke

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Mar/12

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 31/Jan/12 with Shunt

J.Atkins - 2nd O/S - 21/Jan/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/11

nick hawkins - 2nd - 14/Oct/11

Cloudy.
jpksalmon - TR O/S - 10/Oct/11 with Hannah

Hidden - TR - Oct/11

hutchay - Lead rpt - 24/Aug/11 with Alex George

Finally did it
Chrissie Baylis - TR RP - 21/Aug/11 with Cerberus1956

Neil Watson - TR O/S - 14/Aug/11

Sam..Oliver - Lead - 30/Jul/11

stpauliblade - 2nd - 30/Jul/11 with Sam Oliver

stpauliblade - Lead - 30/Jul/11

very easy (but no gear) and graded E2 in Wiki Topos.
Aaron Phillips - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/11 with my dad

can't decide if this is E2 or hard E1
Dawlish - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Son Aaron

timstyles - 2nd β - 27/Jul/11 with Brian Vaughan

Hidden - Lead - 11/Jul/11

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Jul/11

Tried leading it and bottled it and went off route as gear was small and spaced (RP's)
mick1jones - 2nd β - 10/Jul/11 with Rich Rogers

RH finish
Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/11 with Pylon King

The Pylon King - 2nd rpt - 11/Jun/11 with Paul Robertson

MajorRS - 2nd O/S - 21/May/11 with Tom Baker

TomBaker - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Jessica Jackson, Dan Warren

hutchay - Lead O/S - 16/May/11 with Ricky Straw

Hidden - 2nd - 16/May/11

will909 - Lead RP - 15/May/11

jon bradley - Lead rpt - 04/May/11 with Brian Vaughan

Hidden - TR - May/11

bpmclimb - TR rpt - 20/Apr/11 with Shunt

joeurwin - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/11 with Neil Gay

Neil Gay - 2nd O/S - 09/Apr/11 with joeurwin

Hidden - Lead O/S - Apr/11

High in the grade - insecure climbing above not very convincing protection. Some FCQ E2s are less worrying, eg Jive Talkin', or Back Off.
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 20/Mar/11 with Helen S

very thin move at the top. Nasty moment when my foot slipped - thankfully when I was safely holding the final side-pull flake. It was just very slightly greasy on the slab - and that was quite enough!
hms - 2nd β - 20/Mar/11 with the family, Brian

nick hawkins - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/10

Great route - mid section crux and nice flowing sequence to finish
davenev - 2nd O/S - 10/Oct/10 with luke

Loved this climb, really nice moves. Comfortable E1.
Mr Tickle - Lead O/S - 10/Oct/10 with davenev

cas smerdon - TR - 01/Sep/10 with mark joyce

My first extreme climb - loved it.
SharonC1604 - 2nd O/S - 30/Aug/10

karenhh - 2nd - 30/Aug/10

Really enjoyable and quite run out.
jezb1 - Lead O/S - 23/Aug/10

Tom_Harding - Lead rpt - 08/Aug/10 with Tim

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/10 with Clare

Great route, surely at least 2* Thought it was hard for E1 - sustained climbing, with only just adequate (and very fiddly) gear most of the way up. The last move to the ledge, and the last move to the jug in the top groove, were both hard 5b. Really enjoyed flowing up it on second though - one of those routes :)
Si dH - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/10 with Jim R

took the opportunity of top rope with nick having led minute waltz. felt comfortable, thought pro potential looked ok
wilf - TR - 25/Jul/10 with nick f

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Anna, Graham Charman

Graham C - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Marti

Nice climb. A bit soft for E1. Got in much more gear than expected and most of it was good.
Philip de-Beger - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Andrew Hill

first bit of gear a real shocker for phil. good gear otherwise so much so that had to strip out two on the absail back down Six in total. two 5b moves half way up and 2/3 up. Interesting finish
kiwi boy - 2nd - 24/Jul/10 with phil

Tom F Harding - Lead β - 2010

ian d f - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/09

Tom_Harding - Lead β - 16/Aug/09 with Gordy

Greg Pittam - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09 with Claire Durant

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

First E1 climb. Quite a lot of nice holds.
WoD - TR O/S - 30/Jul/09 with Sophie

Easier than expected, well chuffed! gear was hard, Juls moaned a lot about it, though she seemed to find the climb easy enough
sofe13 - 2nd - 20/Jul/09 with Juls

jon thompson27 - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/09 with simon mayell

cas smerdon - TR - 24/Jun/09 with bob & chris

paul1234 - 2nd - 12/Jun/09 with luke

luke13 - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/09 with Paul

easy slab climbing
evhall - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/09 with CK

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 31/May/09 with Lisa Paling

Hidden - 2nd - 31/May/09

petegunn - Lead - 28/May/09 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/May/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/May/09

joeurwin - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/09 with alex

AlexD - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/09 with joeurwin

jon bradley - Lead rpt - 20/Mar/09 with Huw Howells

bazzag - TR - 15/Mar/09 with alison,reece,ollie and ryan

MarkRyder - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Lee

upontop - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/08 with Chris

timharrison - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/08 with Matt Perks

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 23/Jun/08 with Clare

richardr - Lead O/S - Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/May/08

cem - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/08 with Dan from Stroud

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 26/Apr/08

mike kann - 2008 with Steve Corner (SC)

petegunn - Lead - 2008

Paul Robertson - Lead rpt - 14/Oct/07 with Pylon King

The Pylon King - Lead rpt - 16/Sep/07 with Clare

Richard Fox - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/07 with Baldeagle

JPGR - 2nd O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Andy

Hidden - Solo rpt - 23/Aug/07

Matt Tranter - Lead - 11/Aug/07

guy xavier percival - Solo O/S - 09/Aug/07 with none

Jen79 - 2nd - Aug/07 with Matt Tranter

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 08/Jul/07

JimR - Lead - Jul/07 with AJM

Hidden - TR - 01/Jun/07

freelancer_85 - Lead O/S - 29/May/07 with Toby and Megan

Not very comforting gear
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 22/May/07 with Clare, Mike L, Val

Ybot Htulk - 2nd - May/07 with Josh & Megan

Pre-placed gear
jon bradley - Lead β - May/07 with Dave Card

Good climbing
kevinknights - 2nd O/S - 07/Apr/07 with John Hat

John_Hat - Lead O/S - 2007 with Various

Hidden - Lead rpt - 09/Jul/06

My first E1. I think. "High in the grade"... - yikes! Thin.
Phil Murray - Lead β - 08/Jul/06 with Steve Wright

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/06

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 11/May/06 with Clare

Epic Ebdon - 2nd O/S - 06/May/06 with James Wasiak

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/06

gaz.marshall - Lead O/S - 2006

John Southworth - Lead O/S - Sep/05 with Vicky Munn

cornishben - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Chris Sims

chris sm - Lead O/S - Aug/05 with Pippa Froggatt

KRB - Solo O/S - 07/May/05

Fell about 30ft from the crux!
James Moyle - Lead dog - 01/May/05 with D. Murphy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

petegunn - Lead - 04/Jul/04 with Charlotte

daza - Lead - 13/Jun/04 with Ed

Paz - Lead - May/04 with AS

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - May/04 with Francis Lickerish

Digger - 2nd O/S - 20/May/03 with James Latham

chris sm - Lead O/S - May/03

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hooo, Tom Harper, kenneM, JoshT91

Voting
Total votes cast 114
hard E20 of 40
E20 of 40
easy E21 of 40
hard E112 of 40
E120 of 40
easy E15 of 40
hard HVS2 of 40
HVS0 of 40
easy HVS0 of 40
hard 5c0 of 39
5c0 of 39
easy 5c0 of 39
hard 5b7 of 39
5b23 of 39
easy 5b7 of 39
hard 5a2 of 39
5a0 of 39
easy 5a0 of 39
3 Stars1 of 35
2 Stars19 of 35
1 Star14 of 35
0 Stars1 of 35
Bag of .....0 of 35
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged