Brilliant route. Kc P1 me P2 the start is the harder work. Not very technical. Loved the bit before the first belay. And pitch 2 is the crux. 5b. And great climbing and gear all the way. Did it with head torches on to add to the fun. Topped out at 11o'clock. 3***s from me.
luke glaister - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/15 with casey johns
Led both pitches. First pitch is horrifically pumpy but with no one individual hard move. Generally well protected. Good footwork is needed on the starting overhang/groove/crack to avoid pumping out, but otherwise it's fairly straight forward. Pitch two has the hardest move of the route in my opinion trying to get over the biggest roof.
The route overall is harder than half a dozen E2's I have done at Wintours/Shorn cliff/Symonds Yat, no idea how it only gets E1. Regardless, by far and away the best E1 I have ever done. Kind of a south wales version of The Plum at Tremadog
jsmcfarland - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/15 with Sally
Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/15
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/15
What a route! Got lucky with our timing as two other pairs went to do the route on the same day, however we got there minutes before them. First 15 meters was hard and strenuous. The second pitch crux was fine once committed!
steve-grigg - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/15 with Thomas Mai
thomasmai - 2nd β - 10/Jun/15 with Steve Grigg
Nice long route, I found the the 2nd pitch felt more interesting. Lead pitch 2+3 together without drag issues.
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Shijing Hu
AngelaC - 2nd - 03/Jun/15 with Rick Sewards
thomasmai - 2nd - Jun/15 with Steve Grigg
Greg lead the first pitch, I lead the second one. I didn't feel like the polish was limiting in any way, so don't let the guidebook deter you from climbing this great line! It was a little dirty towards the top though ...
GeneralFifi - AltLd O/S - 25/May/15 with Greg Headley
gheadley27 - AltLd O/S - 25/May/15 with GeneralFifi
Took Ben on his First Multi!! I thought it was a sick route - didnt really have much big gear which made it interesting! Classic!
RichyBOYY - Lead O/S - 20/May/15 with Ben M
Benzo - 2nd O/S - 20/May/15 with Ric
led all pitches, first intimidating crack seemed fairly straightforward jamming. The roof on the 2nd pitch was the crux for me. Great adventure.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 17/May/15 with Becky E
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 01/May/15
Me - P1&3, Martin P2
All pitches felt hard for their given grade. Plenty of gear throughout. First section felt very pumpy. Fantastic.
Stuart William - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/15 with Martin
harry_lewis - AltLd - 09/Apr/15 with Jed
Lead 2nd Pitch
jedster1111 - AltLd - 09/Apr/15 with harry_lewis
grp - Lead - 08/Apr/15
pitch 1 me, pitch 2 geoff.
James S - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/15 with geoff
I lead to the terrace and mike finished it off. Don't think this is anywhere near a three star route due to the completely average middle section. The first part went better than expected, didn't use a single hand jam either. Mike had fun on the pitch 2 crux.
felixizzy - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/15 with Mike
Finally put this one to bed after having to lower off some years back when Chris who hadnt been back climbing long couldnt get past the overhang. Probably a good job as i found the crux on pitch 2 very hard turning the roof!
jon_gill1 - AltLd rpt - 21/Mar/15 with chris Lyness
Second and easy third pitch only after traversing in from Der Fuhrer. Going round roof commiting. Interesting using someone else's rack but the information that came with it invaluable :-)
leigh - Lead β - 21/Mar/15 with Gav
lead 1st and 3rd pitch, great commitment from Olly on the second pitch.
brices - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/15 with Olly
Hands and feet numb and cramping whilst following first pitch, took a tumble on second pitch when my foot slipped off a smear due to the bird shit caked holds encountered shortly before, and hit a ledge. Finished it up and did a big of vertical gardening to reach the belay. 3rd pitch not really worth mentioning.
ollie_e - AltLd RP - 15/Mar/15 with Simon Brice
Really struggled again on P1. Just not used to hand-jamming and trusting feet on polish. Felt very "thuggy" but good route to practice that style of climbing.
Failed to lead P2 as couldn't work out the crux sequence, then sent partner up and he did it a completely different way - so much easier!
druss - 2nd dog - 12/Mar/15 with argentinian machine
Not really worth all the adulation. First part of P1 was fun, "distressingly polished" is apt for the move getting into the corner. Rest of the pitch fairly average. P2 fun and enjoyable apart from the torrent of dirt that comes down from the top when seconding it.
Sam Watson - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/15 with James Cowley
ian bryant - Lead - 2015
mike.moss - AltLd dog - 05/Oct/14 with Kirill Spiridonov
Tremendous route! So sustained! I led P1. Mike - P2. P2 is definitely harder. We didn't bother with the P3, abbed off.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/14 with Mike Moss
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/14
I lead the second pitch at HVS. Great move up and around the overhang.
Legs - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/14 with Macca
P1+2, Ben took the last pitch
LJC - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/14 with Anna, Little Ben
BDC - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/14 with luca
soooooooo polished at the base!
tskelhon - AltLd O/S - Sep/14 with Charlotte
clmacdonald - AltLd - Sep/14 with tskelhon
mop449 - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Dom Joyce, Phillip Wright
No idea how I made it up the first pitch. Took way more strength than I had. Couldn't seem to get a good hand jam in the first section. Slipped on the ridiculously polished foothold. Made it the second time, luckily as my partner would have had to come and got his gear.
2nd and 3rd pitches were much better for me, even with pumped out arms from the 1st. Watch out for loose rocks on the 2nd and the dead branch on 3rd. Must remember next time I say I will follow my mate up whatever he fancies, to be more specific I.e. 'I'll follow you up anything that is technical, requiring very little strength.'
Katsmiff - 2nd RP - 24/Aug/14 with Martin Bagshaw
Well I thought it was fun!
Martin Bagshaw - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Catherine Smith
ollie1 - Lead dog - 23/Aug/14 with Noodles, Olly Ryan
Jack.H.92 - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14 with Sarah
1st attempt at p1 I climbed like a moron, missed the semi rest and just generally did it wrong, resulting in a large lob onto the chockstone ending up near the ground. Managed fine 2nd time around. Top of p1 is awesome. p2 good fun. But overall while it is a great route its not 3* for me
Cheese Monkey - AltLd RP - 13/Aug/14 with Peter
Led pitch 2. All good, but no more than 2*.
pheotleyr - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/14 with Ben
Should've not given into temptation and waited till fresh. Tired from previous two climbs and polish didn't help with relaxing whilst progressing up the crack.
druss - Lead dnf - 09/Aug/14
Fabulous fabulous climb...first 10 meters was tough - tiny footholds that were polished.
sara n - AltLd - 03/Aug/14 with Paul Wolf
simon kimber - Solo - 27/Jul/14
skippington - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14
Lead P1 clean onsight. My second could not climb the P1 and I had to ab. My most serious pitch of rock trad climbing to date.
andrzej kierzek - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/14 with Tara
danmullett - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14
corinrathbone - 2nd dog - 14/Jun/14 with Łukasz Harazin
LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/14
JM - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Stevo
Andy Smallwood - AltLd O/S - 21/May/14
CA1289 - 2nd - 21/May/14
second pitch only as linked from kangaroo wall by accident
jack1996 - Lead O/S - 21/May/14
Connoor - 21/May/14
What a beauty! Two great pitches, the first is a bit of a thrutchfest for the first ten meters...
Scotsken - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Sven Heaps
Slipped off the polished holds just after getting into the crack at about 5m. Pulled ropes and started again, fine from then on.
will_benfold - Lead rpt - 17/May/14 with Sarah Woodrow
Pintsize - 2nd - 17/May/14 with Will Benfold
pearson9596 - Lead rpt - 17/May/14
Climbed with a random old boy I met at the crag. Had no gear, so I used his rack - which included a 1967 MOAC (protects the crux on the second pitch perfectly) Peck Crackers, a shanty selection of hexes (on original 80's cord) and no draws. Thankfully he had a cam that fitted under the first overhang. All good fun, and makes me realise how much easier we have it these days!
simon kimber - Lead rpt - 16/May/14
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14
An impressive line until you get up close where it is dirty, loose and polished. Found second pitch to be better quality. Not sure it is worth all the accolades.
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Dan Fairbank
Matt.c.Warner - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/14 with Troy
jcw - 2014
Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13
Simon lead P1 and 2, and I, P3.
masa-alpin - AltLd rpt - 14/Sep/13 with Simon P
Only did P1, not enough time for the rest. Very messy 2nd though!
craigaj.ace - 2nd - 10/Sep/13 with James
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/13
Dunx - AltLd rpt - 31/Aug/13 with Tom Slader
He put up a good fight
TimKnight - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Dave Marshall
At last! I lead P1 and P2, Dave did P3. Adele backed off at the initial flaked groove. I found the roof of the P2 was the crux, but Dave apparently climbed it differently and found it to be not too bad. Fairly dirty, dusty, loose in places and very polished, but the moves were honest and good, the line was very strong. My verdict was a good route, whereas Dave didn't like it.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Dave W-J, Adele L
Loose block - backed off.
LJC - Lead - 10/Aug/13 with Tom, ben.richards
Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/13 with Dan Lane
P2. Jammed my way up p1 so it didn't feel too hard. P2 is delightful upto a stiff pull then some jungle-bashing to the top. Abseiled off the tat on the thread belay (which ideally needs replacing with 11mm rope).
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/13 with Tom Livingstone
Finally psyched myself up to lead this after seconding back in June.. Made a meal of the start... Used the in-situ gear to aid... Jamming technique needs some work! Pitch 2 was clean - but not pretty! Pitch 3 was a pleasurable climb out! Just happy to lead the whole thing and not fall off! Aim to climb it clean next time (year).
AndyF - Lead dog - 08/Aug/13 with Gregor
Awesome stuff. Grabbed the in situ sling on the first pitch. Need to work on my jamming.. I think I would have fallen off the roof crux of the 2nd pitch if it wasn't for a little balance assistance from the rope :D
Echna - 2nd dog - 08/Aug/13 with Andy
tonevert - Lead dog - 22/Jul/13 with paul
Paul Eckton - 2nd - 20/Jul/13 with Tony Johnson
Blazing hot day and a 3.5 hour epic. Led P1&3. Got past the crux without much trouble, moved onto the slab and got lost for a bit. Found the groove again and got to 2m from the belay, then just didn't have the strength left for the final polished move. After a long rest and 3 falls, I decided I just couldn't make it and aided the last move. It's only about 4c, I was just thrashed. We both spent a long time resting on the ledge and then Chris led P2. I think that overhang is harder than anything on P1, and much bolder.
Hooo - AltLd dog - 07/Jul/13 with Chris Sieradzki
Led P2. I think it's little bit hard E1. Definitely not good introduction to the grade. P1 strenuous on the bottom groove than steady and one tricky move just before ledge.
P2 is very easy except one move by the overhang which in my opinion is the crux of the whole route. Much harder than 5a. 5b without the doubt.
At the top of P2 before grassy bit when you look down you can see how long route is. Nice feeling.
Chris Sieradzki - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Hooo
the first 30' are very hard
wilkinscl - 2nd - 05/Jul/13
Lead P2, both pitches were great, good jamming on P1 with thin footholds followed by some great technical climbing. P2 was easier but the overhang felt hard for 5a
alastairbegley - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Nick Russell
Great positions, worth it just to sit for a while at the belay ledge! Shame about the loose vegetated parts in the middle of p1 and the top of p2. I led p1 and found it a bit of a battle, but not unfair for E1. (If I'd taken more big gear and was a bit better practiced at jamming it would be fine.)
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Alastair Begley
Oh dear! Led p1, just about. Not at all awake or warmed up & climbing like a complete spanner. Slipped below the initial overhang & lobbed onto the in situ tat. Got lowered off, pulled the ropes through & did it on the second attempt. And yet, despite it all, I would grade the whole route HVS 5a
cem - AltLd RP - 29/Jun/13 with Graham Dolman
Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/13
Pete Rigby - AltLd - 09/Jun/13 with Jim Tan
Pretty Epic. Mixed climbing, nothing pretty or elegant about it, 1 big pull up all the way up! Start of first pitch is great, nice jamming crack, traverse right fhen atraight up. 2nd pitch has a pretty epic roof which is easier than it looks, tops out on a sketchy grassy bank to a ledge. Watch out for the wrotten log! 3rd pitch really short with nice easy climbing up a flake to the finish. Aim to lead it one day - but not quit ready yet!
AndyF - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Mike
mallardhealhook - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/13
Simon Allcock - AltLd O/S - 19/May/13 with Jake, Wilki
adam 24 - AltLd - May/13
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/13
Jon setup the belay stance after P1 quite a bit lower than usual so I lead the second half of P1 and P2. Great climbing, felt really good.
alexjz - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Jon Ayrton
harryjenner - AltLd - 24/Apr/13
tedj234 - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/13 with Harry
Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/13 with Mike
Failed miserably, climbed up to near the top of the initial grove, my excuse being I got really flustered on the dusty jams, and suddenly boiling with my fleece on was unable to sort my feet out and then just got burnt out and had to give up, went up afterwards to strip the gear. Next time will not cock up so badly and confident we will get up it.
Quarryboy - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/13 with James Rich
ianto - 2013
Hidden - 2013
cymjt - 2013
Hidden - AltLd - 11/Nov/12
pearson9596 - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Ian Faulkner
First and last pitch
ian d f - AltLd - 27/Oct/12 with Michael P
tcn_2002 - AltLd - 27/Oct/12
TimCul - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/12 with thomas codrington
burto - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/12 with tom powell, hertha
Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Ian B, Hertha, Rozzy
therat - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/12
Hidden - Oct/12
harry_lewis - AltLd dog - Oct/12 with Jed
jedster1111 - AltLd dog - Oct/12 with harry_lewis
Led 2nd pitch this time, first is definitely harder. Both good but shame about the bird poo on the second.
thomasadixon - AltLd rpt - 15/Sep/12 with Becca
Lead second pitch, tough moves getting round the overhang but well protected. First pitch initially good but chossy for second half, second pitch covered in bird poo initially then good after.
Tala M - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Mike Brookes
Led pitch 1. Brilliant climbing.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Tom
therat - AltLd - 08/Sep/12
Lead the second pitch after a clean lead of the first pitch from James on his first attempt
pelvoux - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with James H
Pete Rigby - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/12 with Sean Murphy
Came off seconding P1 and found crux roof at P2 too much so Gareth lead it - not my best climb
rd20 - 2nd dog - 28/Jul/12 with Gareth H
Polished and overrated.
GarethHall - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Robert Dufton
Hidden - TR - 17/Jul/12
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 15/Jul/12
grp - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with jon_ridley
lead p2. tricky around the roof
jon_ridley - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Geoff Pyatt
Hidden - Lead - 13/May/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12
JamesBrowning - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/12 with Toby
Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/12
saintlade - 2012
timtimpeggy - 2012
Tony Kartawick - 2012
AWESOME!!!! Insane corner!
Goose4 - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/11 with Chris Ince
great climb, good adventure, because of the line, strong and long up main face of wintours leap. 2 long pitches that just keep on coming. Downpour at top of first pitch so sat it out for 20 mmins and then finhished it off. Reminded me of Moonraker. Memorable!
manwithacam - Lead - 10/Sep/11 with mike burnett
Hidden - AltLd dog - 10/Sep/11
Nice climb from beginning to the end.
Estelles - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11
Led all 3 pitches. Rested on gear at crux of 1st 2 pitches.
JamesColeman - Lead dog - 19/Aug/11 with Andy
tom.e - Aug/11
Led p1 & p3; found the start brutal (hard pumpy 5b) and the dirt, polish and veg detracted on p1. Second pitch was the best climbing with more rest options possible on the overhang crux moves.
Jon Didymus - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Nick
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11
mattshort - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Dave West
Awesome Managed to milk plenty of rests on the crack section so didn't feel too bad, but overall really good climb!
Dave89 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with matt Short
harrythegunz - 2nd O/S - Jul/11
Led pitch 2 (about VS 5a/5b?). This could be the best limestone route I've done.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/11 with alex malins
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/11
Great positions, but it is dusty, polished, and somewhat loose. Slightly hangover probably didnt help!
Tim M - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Emma
climbergg - 2nd - 14/Jun/11 with cheesesarnie
Paul Bowen - Lead rpt - 21/May/11 with Rebecca Hayes
Chakrit P1 & 3, Chris P2
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 21/May/11 with Chakrit Suriyo
chakrit - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Chris
Hidden - AltLd - 15/May/11
Led both pitches (thanks Andy!). Crux of both pitches felt equally hard, brilliant climbing, sustained, first 'proper' E1 and loved it!
Mike Kiss - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with Old man Andy
Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with Andy Forbes
davidgent - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Joe Prinold
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/11
Lead p2 pitch, Fraser lead P1
nvalentine760 - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/11
climbed the first pitch but my second was too pumped and so forced to ab off!2 new nuts and malions up for grabs if you want them!
jon_gill1 - Lead dnf - 20/Mar/11 with chris Lyness
Lead middle pitch
ian d f - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/11 with Emmanuel
One word.... EPIC!! both pitches felt 5b, weldone to james for getting his head together and leading the 2nd pitch. Brilliant climb, a right adventure. Led P1
stvredmond - AltLd - 08/Mar/11 with James lane
the crux for me was most definitely not the start, its moving above the roof in the second pitch, literally one move wonder unless you have a really long reach.
j miller - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/11 with filipe dacamara
_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/11 with Tom Harrison
Hidden - 2011
Done it 3 times, all before the bottom fell out!
Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 2011 with Geoff Thomas, Ian Owen
Hidden - 2011
alasdair19 - 2011
M_W_Court - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/10
fell twice on the first corner - what a b*tch!
suffolknick - AltLd dog - 10/Oct/10 with clams
friend 3s for P1, which is a real pig
clams - Lead O/S - Oct/10 with NB
Wow. Well now I know the name 'King Kong' evokes not only the wild apelike strength and stamina required to do the moves, but also the jungle-like environment in which they are carried out... not to mention the generally epic nature of the experience. I've never seen quite such a mixture of choss and polish - though if that doesn't put you off I'd definitely recommend the route!
Definitely an adventure route, though the cruxes are well protected. I vote E2 for the starting groove. I know many would disagree and I can understand the 'hard E1' perspective but I found it harder than any E2 I have done in the Wye valley, so maybe if you think that you should downgrade everything else. Or maybe I just did it wrong..?
Stone Muppet - Lead dog - 22/Sep/10 with Paz
led 2nd pitch to roof and had a few go's but talked myself out of it, gutted really because i pissed it after gav led it!!! awesome route....it is what it says on the tin!!***
brew_guru - 2nd β - 21/Sep/10 with super gav
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10
lead Pitch 2 (5a). fantastic moves around the arete - fairly exposed on P1 and great clean climbing up the crack on P2... not worth three stars though, too much loose/broken parts and vegetation.
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with Remus Knowles
Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/10
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 20/Jul/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10
Seconded first pitch ok. Led second pitch to roof and fell off ripping gear and injuring shoulder. Need to work on feet and gear placements
mick1jones - AltLd dnf - 10/Jul/10 with Chris Dale, John Martin
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/10
brill route, the first pitch is pumpy if you can't jam and I'm not very good put the odd jam in but did not pull on 1 layed back bridged it all. A lot easier I guess if ur a good jammer. Mick lead second pitch struggled on the overhang, he fell off and his gear ripped had a nasty fall hurt his shoulder bad, had to lower him off get well soon mick. I lead second pitch move over overhang a bit polished, mick missed a bommer nut and a small foothold hard 5a johny lead last pitch. Then off to bristol hospital
Dale - AltLd O/S - Jul/10 with mick, johny
P1: Horrible polished and probably E1. Middle bit is a bit vegetated and loose. Top of p1 is quality. p2: cool moves on big holds.
Glyn - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/10 with Bez
pretty fucking good, tough start, a bit vegetated in the middle but second pitch was good quality rock.
gknyus - 2nd β - 23/Jun/10 with Welshman
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/10 with Clare
Too weak to lead!!! Will go do it when I'm strong!!!
jhawton - 2nd - 18/Jun/10 with danJBA
danJBA - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/10
muttley_109 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Steven Delaney
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10
Sunny happy days tree roots
gonggashan - AltLd - Jun/10
stuart34 - 2nd - 28/May/10
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10 with Harry
dan gibson - Lead rpt - 20/May/10
Led first pitch.
Don't think it should have been upgraded to E1 in recent guide. Feel the start is fair at a toughish HVS 5a - you get to solid locker jams for your hands before you have to take your feet off the massive holds. Certainly would not be graded harder than HVS in the Peak. Second pitch also has a couple of tough moves. Still vote for hard HVS overall though. Excellent route.
There is loads of gear everywhere - I didnt use any of the old pegs that are in place.
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 09/May/10 with Ray, Andy Morris
Led the second pitch. Thought both pitches about hard HVS, and very good.
AJM - AltLd O/S - 09/May/10 with Ray Harris, Simon de Haas
Too polished to be really fun. Led P1, with a rest at the start, and very nearly popped off the top of the pitch as I realized I was fully committed, with terrible footholds and no gear since a rusted old piton 3m below.
Felt a bit hard for E1, mostly because of the polish on the cruxes.
Alexandre Buisse - AltLd - 24/Apr/10 with Max
natalietanzer - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with nacnud
3 Names - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Sumee Holloway
nacnud - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/10 with Natalie Tanzer
First pitch only. It has a very polished key foothold but otherwise nice steady jamming and bridging. One of those pitches that would feel a LOT harder without cams tho..
Alan100 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10
First Pitch Only. Ab-d of the ledge.
James_86 - 2nd rpt - 17/Apr/10 with Jacob
Luke Marsden - 2nd dog - Apr/10 with Keith Marsden
one fall at crux of second pitch
toasted - Lead dog - 14/Mar/10 with maxpie
P1 only (Richard changed his mind about P2-3).
Chris Sansum - 2nd dnf - 13/Mar/10 with Richard Lade
koalapie - 2nd β - Mar/10
Luke Marsden - 2nd dog - 2010 with Keith Marsden
jimmatthews - AltLd - 2010 with simon kimber, James Davies
Hidden - Lead - 2010
tried to find the line of stairway to heaven but got lost. Did this instead. Most pleasant especially the mud and dust
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09 with Tiger Tom
Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09
led P1, 2nd P2. polished but still worthwhile.
Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Eric Herring
quality climbing on a quality day. did in two pitches, had to dig a few holds out of the dirt, particulary on the crux of pitch 2. awesome route.
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with B.Brewer
For me a bit of a warm and dirty stuggle, like wrestling a big pig in a sauna, bonza lead from Percy though. Great start to the first and second pitches and a cracking finish, which made up for the mud shute in the middle.
mikehenesy - 2nd O/S - Aug/09 with Percy
gdb4060 - AltLd - 23/Jun/09 with Will
1st pitch only, tried to lead it but backed off due to poor protection for the first move. The block I had to lay back off and put the cam behind has a crack all the way around it and sounds hollow. Mike managed to pull through anyway and move the cam higher asap.
Ceridwen - 2nd β - 31/May/09 with Uber Mike
Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Peter Roberts
what's the grade ?
namod - Lead - May/09 with phc
Led both pitches, hard going.
gripped01 - Lead O/S - May/09 with Jim Jarvis
2nd pitch only
simon kimber - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/09 with Hannah Hunt
Hanski - 2nd - 11/Apr/09 with Simon Kimber
Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Feb/09
fatfingerz - 2009
The route is really atmospheric, but also a bit esoteric in places, with a few patches of loose rock and muddy/vegitated bits. I think it gets 3 stars for atmosphere though. The first pitch would be tough for anyone who isn't that good at jamming! The second pitch is better quality but awkward at the crux.
al99 - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Martina Zandonella
Very hard first pitch due to jamming problem! Crux in the second too but very atmospheric
martinazando - 2nd - 19/Oct/08 with Al Benson
Dunx - AltLd - 12/Oct/08 with Adam
amazing! first proper E1. very pollished
Adam Humphreys - AltLd RP - 12/Oct/08 with Dunx
First pitch v strenuous, second good fun, lead third. Lovely views..
Ewan Richards - 2nd - 10/Oct/08 with Dave6
After an ignominious retreat from kangeroo wall. There is a bees nest near the crux of P2 of this at the mo.
Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 10/Oct/08 with ewan
Lead 1st and 3rd pitch.
Tim W - AltLd RP - 21/Sep/08 with Oli Warren
leerybunny - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Tim Wilkinson
My favourite bit was the ten metres of wet vertical mud.
Shauna - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/08 with Steve
Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/08
Found the overhang on the second pitch "interesting" - judicious use of knees!
Mark Kemball - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/08 with Stacey Ward
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/08
Led first pitch. Thought the crux on the second was harder.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/08 with Will
Lead P1 and P2. Start is hard, dirty limestone jamming. Avoided by using small crimps
Sam W - Lead - 03/Jul/08 with Ali Williams
bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/08 with Roger
MikeLell - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/08 with Ian Bryant
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jun/08
Only did first pitch due to lack of light and energy. Quite strenuous.
localboy - 2nd dog - 27/May/08 with Simon C, Simon F
dirty, polished, loose, 3 stars ?
Chubbard - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08 with C Godfrey
Led pitch 1 & 3 (my 2nd E1!). Adrian led pitch 2. Had a rest in 2 places under the 2nd overhang (too knackered to do it in one go!), but led cleanly apart from the rests. Crux of pitch 2 (which Adrian led, with 1 fall) felt desperate!
An absolute classic climb.
Chris Sansum - AltLd dog - 18/May/08 with Adrian Lowe
Gets E1 in the new wye valley guide. Led 1st and 3rd pitches. The very start is brutal jamming on polished foot holds. Took gary's rack and couldn't find a blooding thing! Will take big cams next time.
hash - AltLd dog - 05/Apr/08 with Gary Lewis
Justin T - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Wifey
Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Oct/07
Climbed the jamming crack after the crux in v.poor style. Like to go back and lead the second pitch. Proficient jamming needed for the first though
Dr Caterpillar - 2nd dog - 03/Oct/07 with Wayne
Hidden - Oct/07
Lead first pitch, Alex the second one. Run out of quick draws! Hot and sunny at the belay
pelvoux - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Alex
Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/07 with Timmy Elson
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/07 with Jon Hauser
First pitch tough up to the overhang - good bridging practice! Overhang actually a lot easier than it looks. Perfect gear, if you can stop to place it! Going past the overhang on the second pitch also quite tough. Unfortunately the route is a bit vegitated.
Misha - Lead dog - 29/Apr/07
Hidden - AltLd - 04/Feb/07
feilx - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/07 with Tom H
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Jan/07
Hidden - 2007
dan gibson - Lead rpt - 11/Sep/06
Circus - Lead β - 09/Sep/06 with Jack Milton
Strenuous, fell off after the first overhang, then pulled up on the thread.
JackMountains - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/06 with Adam Haward
Striking line, pretty sustained, good gear throughout.
Stefan Kruger - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/06 with Paul Wood
Had quite a big fall, backed off, horrendously polished start, will come back to with more cams and when I'm back in shape.
timharrison - AltLd dnf - 16/Jul/06 with Trevor Macalonan
maybe_si - AltLd dog - 07/Jul/06 with jez
Jez - AltLd dog - 06/Jul/06 with Maybe_Si
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/06
Pitch 1 only. Second didn't follow so I abbed off the ledge.
bpmclimb - Lead dnf - 08/Jun/06 with Clare
Hidden - AltLd dog - 28/May/06
Bern - 2006
beardy mike - 2006 with Rob Scheicl
Spacetourist - 2nd O/S - 2006 with Ed Heslam
markfromstoke - 2006
Hidden - Lead rpt - Jul/05
Now E1? Very sustained crack/corner at the start. Found it very hard. Really enjoyed 2nd pitch
Bux - Lead O/S - Jul/05 with Rupert Bassadone
Stayed dry in the light rain. P1+P2 only - abbed off. 5/6/06 - topping out is now allowed and so the second ab station has now been chopped but this has left a right old mess and people with no desire to walk down will just use the trees instead.
Paz - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/05 with TS2
mikeyjbs - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/05 with lachie
Boxy - Lead β - Apr/05 with Mick
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/05
first pitch only
joe_alexander - 2nd - 08/Dec/04 with Gavin Cytlaw
Lev - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/04 with Spen
A good route, dusty lower down, we felt E1 would be a more accurate grade. We had to climb with only one half rope after forgetting the other one!
drysori - Lead O/S - Apr/04 with AdamW
a_radiohead_fan - 2004
Urgles - AltLd O/S - Nov/03 with David Elder
Pitch 1 only
mikej - 2nd - 02/Sep/03 with Nick Salmon
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/03
MikeC59 - Lead dog - 29/Jun/03
Fell off at the first overhang, recent rock fall has increased the difficulty.
woolwatcher - 15/May/03 with Rob Emery/Howard Rentyboy
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003
Lead first pitch
simonf - AltLd O/S - 2003 with Martin
Billg - Lead O/S - 2003
Defeated by ropedrag when trying to top out at the very end of the climb.
tomkhoward - Lead dnf - 2003 with John Spear
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/02
dan gibson - Solo O/S - Aug/02
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 30/Jul/02
simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 2002 with Mr E. Guest
Billg - Lead O/S - 14/May/00 with Phil Thomas
philhilo - AltLd - 2000
Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000
Roget - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/96 with jon
Justin Tracey - AltLd - 1996 with Stu Ingram
mikej - AltLd - 14/Apr/95 with Nick Salmon
NeilGriffiths - 1995
Before it fell down.
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 1994 with Mark
Hidden - Lead - 1994
Not sustained at all! Mostly VS but with three very hard cruxes; the start, the top of P1 and the big roof. Needed a point of aid on all three!
alan moore - 1994
mikej - AltLd - 17/Aug/93 with Nick Salmon
Hidden - Lead - 08/Nov/92
mikej - AltLd - 04/Aug/92 with Nick Salmon
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jul/91
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/90
ferret newman - 2nd dog - Aug/90 with Cotswolds Reading crew 1991-1992
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/90
mikej - 2nd - 07/Jun/90 with Bill Turner
A Wednesday after work
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead β - 23/May/90
ChrisJD - Lead - 29/Mar/90
Hidden - AltLd - 1990
Marti999 - AltLd - 1990
Led first and third pitches
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 1990 with James Winspear
Hidden - Lead - 03/Mar/89
Did it when 'men were men' and well protected 5b's were HVS not E1!
surfbish - Lead O/S - 1989
johnyspuitnik - Lead rpt - 1989
babymoac - AltLd - 03/Sep/88 with MTW
nigehughes - AltLd - Jun/88 with Ian Rolland
ChrisJD - AltLd - 06/Mar/88
tapley - AltLd - 04/Jul/87 with John Sumner
Guy - Lead O/S - 1987
What a great route
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1987
Nigel Coe - AltLd - 1987 with Frank Farrell
jcw - AltLd - 1986
DDDD - AltLd - 05/Oct/85 with Chris Brown
Hairy Welshman - AltLd O/S - Aug/85 with Ross Robinson
Richard Weller - AltLd - 11/May/85 with james eldridge
neilh - AltLd - Jun/84 with dave croker
sadams - AltLd - 05/Nov/83 with Steve Newman
pitch 2 polished but worth 3*
leland stamper - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/83 with pete crutchley
nbotting - Lead O/S - 1981
RichardMc - 2nd - 1980 with Dave Langmead
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/79
Sandbag VS in those days ! Felt chuffed when it went up to HVS !
rogerskews - AltLd - 1975 with Keith Jenkins
Nigel Bond - Lead - 21/Apr/74 with Alan