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King Kong*** E1 5b

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[An airy top out to 'King Kong' Wye Valley, 4 kb]5b,5a,-.

Ticklists: 100 best limestone climbs in Britain.

Photo: An airy top out to 'King Kong' Wye Valley © purple sue
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 218 logbooks, and on 54 wishlists.

Simon Allcock - AltLd O/S - 19/May/13 with Jake, Wilki

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/13

Jon setup the belay stance after P1 quite a bit lower than usual so I lead the second half of P1 and P2. Great climbing, felt really good.
alexjz - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Jon Ayrton

harryjenner - AltLd - 24/Apr/13

tedj234 - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/13 with Harry

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/13 with Mike

Failed miserably, climbed up to near the top of the initial grove, my excuse being I got really flustered on the dusty jams, and suddenly boiling with my fleece on was unable to sort my feet out and then just got burnt out and had to give up, went up afterwards to strip the gear. Next time will not cock up so badly and confident we will get up it.
Quarryboy - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/13 with James Rich

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Nov/12

pearson9596 - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Ian Faulkner

First and last pitch
ian d f - AltLd - 27/Oct/12 with Michael P

tcn_2002 - AltLd - 27/Oct/12

TimCul - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/12 with thomas codrington

burto - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/12 with tom powell, hertha

Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Ian B, Hertha, Rozzy

jampanman - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/12

Hidden - Oct/12

Led 2nd pitch this time, first is definitely harder. Both good but shame about the bird poo on the second.
thomasadixon - AltLd rpt - 15/Sep/12 with Becca

Lead second pitch, tough moves getting round the overhang but well protected. First pitch initially good but chossy for second half, second pitch covered in bird poo initially then good after.
Tala M - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Mike Brookes

Led pitch 1. Brilliant climbing.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Tom

jampanman - AltLd - 08/Sep/12

Lead the second pitch after a clean lead of the first pitch from James on his first attempt
pelvoux - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with James H

Pete Rigby - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/12 with Sean Murphy

Came off seconding P1 and found crux roof at P2 too much so Gareth lead it - not my best climb
rd20 - 2nd dog - 28/Jul/12 with Gareth H

Polished and overrated.
GarethHall - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Robert Dufton

Tim - P1 - strenuous and totally polished - even more than avon! Me - P2 - overhang crux too much - Tim finished...
evhall - AltLd dnf - 15/Jul/12 with Tim Bray

grp - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with jon_ridley

lead p2. tricky around the roof
jon_ridley - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Geoff Pyatt

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12

JamesBrowning - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/12 with Toby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/12

saintlade - 2012

timtimpeggy - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

AWESOME!!!! Insane corner!
Goose4 - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/11 with Chris Ince

great climb, good adventure, because of the line, strong and long up main face of wintours leap. 2 long pitches that just keep on coming. Downpour at top of first pitch so sat it out for 20 mmins and then finhished it off. Reminded me of Moonraker. Memorable!
middlemarker - Lead - 10/Sep/11 with mike burnett

Hidden - AltLd dog - 10/Sep/11

Nice climb from beginning to the end.
Estelles - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11

Led all 3 pitches. Rested on gear at crux of 1st 2 pitches.
JamesColeman - Lead dog - 19/Aug/11 with Andy

tom.e - Aug/11

Led p1 & p3; found the start brutal (hard pumpy 5b) and the dirt, polish and veg detracted on p1. Second pitch was the best climbing with more rest options possible on the overhang crux moves.
Jon Didymus - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Nick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11

mattshort - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Dave West

Awesome Managed to milk plenty of rests on the crack section so didn't feel too bad, but overall really good climb!
Dave89 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with matt Short

harrythegunz - 2nd O/S - Jul/11

Led pitch 2 (about VS 5a/5b?). This could be the best limestone route I've done.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/11 with alex malins

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/11

Great positions, but it is dusty, polished, and somewhat loose. Slightly hangover probably didnt help!
Tim M - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 14/Jun/11 with cheesesarnie

Paul Bowen - Lead rpt - 21/May/11 with Rebecca Hayes

Chakrit P1 & 3, Chris P2
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 21/May/11 with Chakrit Suriyo

Hidden - AltLd - 15/May/11

Led both pitches (thanks Andy!). Crux of both pitches felt equally hard, brilliant climbing, sustained, first 'proper' E1 and loved it!
Mike Kiss - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with Old man Andy

Lead P2
davidgent - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Joe Prinold

Led 1st (crux) and 3rd pitch. Really nice climbing in between the vegetation!
prinny - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Dave Gent

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/11

Lead p2 pitch, Fraser lead P1
nvalentine760 - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/11

climbed the first pitch but my second was too pumped and so forced to ab off!2 new nuts and malions up for grabs if you want them!
jon_gill1 - Lead dnf - 20/Mar/11 with chris Lyness

Lead middle pitch
ian d f - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/11 with Emmanuel

One word.... EPIC!! both pitches felt 5b, weldone to james for getting his head together and leading the 2nd pitch. Brilliant climb, a right adventure. Led P1
stvredmond - AltLd - 08/Mar/11 with James lane

the crux for me was most definitely not the start, its moving above the roof in the second pitch, literally one move wonder unless you have a really long reach.
j miller - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/11 with filipe dacamara

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/11 with Tom Harrison

mrfeebus - 2011

Done it 3 times, all before the bottom fell out!
Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 2011 with Geoff Thomas, Ian Owen

Hidden - 2011

alasdair19 - 2011

M_W_Court - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/10

fell twice on the first corner - what a b*tch!
suffolknick - AltLd dog - 10/Oct/10 with clams

friend 3s for P1, which is a real pig
clams - Lead O/S - Oct/10 with NB

Wow. Well now I know the name 'King Kong' evokes not only the wild apelike strength and stamina required to do the moves, but also the jungle-like environment in which they are carried out... not to mention the generally epic nature of the experience. I've never seen quite such a mixture of choss and polish - though if that doesn't put you off I'd definitely recommend the route! Definitely an adventure route, though the cruxes are well protected. I vote E2 for the starting groove. I know many would disagree and I can understand the 'hard E1' perspective but I found it harder than any E2 I have done in the Wye valley, so maybe if you think that you should downgrade everything else. Or maybe I just did it wrong..?
Stone Muppet - Lead dog - 22/Sep/10 with Paz

led 2nd pitch to roof and had a few go's but talked myself out of it, gutted really because i pissed it after gav led it!!! awesome route....it is what it says on the tin!!***
brew_guru - 2nd β - 21/Sep/10 with super gav

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10

lead Pitch 2 (5a). fantastic moves around the arete - fairly exposed on P1 and great clean climbing up the crack on P2... not worth three stars though, too much loose/broken parts and vegetation.
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 20/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10

Seconded first pitch ok. Led second pitch to roof and fell off ripping gear and injuring shoulder. Need to work on feet and gear placements
mick1jones - AltLd dnf - 10/Jul/10 with Chris Dale, John Martin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/10

brill route, the first pitch is pumpy if you can't jam and I'm not very good put the odd jam in but did not pull on 1 layed back bridged it all. A lot easier I guess if ur a good jammer. Mick lead second pitch struggled on the overhang, he fell off and his gear ripped had a nasty fall hurt his shoulder bad, had to lower him off get well soon mick. I lead second pitch move over overhang a bit polished, mick missed a bommer nut and a small foothold hard 5a johny lead last pitch. Then off to bristol hospital
Dale - AltLd O/S - Jul/10 with mick, johny

P1: Horrible polished and probably E1. Middle bit is a bit vegetated and loose. Top of p1 is quality. p2: cool moves on big holds.
Glyn - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/10 with Bez

pretty fucking good, tough start, a bit vegetated in the middle but second pitch was good quality rock.
gknyus - 2nd β - 23/Jun/10 with Welshman

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/10 with Clare

Too weak to lead!!! Will go do it when I'm strong!!!
jhawton - 2nd - 18/Jun/10 with danJBA

2 pitches
danJBA - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/10

muttley_109 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Steven Delaney

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10

Sunny happy days tree roots
gonggashan - AltLd - Jun/10

stuart34 - 2nd - 28/May/10

P2+3
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10 with Harry

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 20/May/10

Led first pitch. Don't think it should have been upgraded to E1 in recent guide. Feel the start is fair at a toughish HVS 5a - you get to solid locker jams for your hands before you have to take your feet off the massive holds. Certainly would not be graded harder than HVS in the Peak. Second pitch also has a couple of tough moves. Still vote for hard HVS overall though. Excellent route. There is loads of gear everywhere - I didnt use any of the old pegs that are in place.
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 09/May/10 with Ray, Andy Morris

Led the second pitch. Thought both pitches about hard HVS, and very good.
AJM - AltLd O/S - 09/May/10 with Ray Harris, Simon de Haas

Too polished to be really fun. Led P1, with a rest at the start, and very nearly popped off the top of the pitch as I realized I was fully committed, with terrible footholds and no gear since a rusted old piton 3m below. Felt a bit hard for E1, mostly because of the polish on the cruxes.
Alexandre Buisse - AltLd - 24/Apr/10 with Max

natalietanzer - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with nacnud

Vince McNally - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Sumee Holloway

nacnud - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/10 with Natalie Tanzer

First pitch only. It has a very polished key foothold but otherwise nice steady jamming and bridging. One of those pitches that would feel a LOT harder without cams tho..
Alan100 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

First Pitch Only. Ab-d of the ledge.
James_86 - 2nd rpt - 17/Apr/10 with Jacob

Luke Marsden - 2nd dog - Apr/10 with Keith Marsden

one fall at crux of second pitch
toasted - Lead dog - 14/Mar/10 with maxpie

P1 only (Richard changed his mind about P2-3).
Chris Sansum - 2nd dnf - 13/Mar/10 with Richard Lade

koalapie - 2nd β - Mar/10

Luke Marsden - 2nd dog - 2010 with Keith Marsden

jimmatthews - Lead - 2010

tried to find the line of stairway to heaven but got lost. Did this instead. Most pleasant especially the mud and dust
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09 with Tiger Tom

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

led P1, 2nd P2. polished but still worthwhile.
Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Eric Herring

quality climbing on a quality day. did in two pitches, had to dig a few holds out of the dirt, particulary on the crux of pitch 2. awesome route.
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with B.Brewer

For me a bit of a warm and dirty stuggle, like wrestling a big pig in a sauna, bonza lead from Percy though. Great start to the first and second pitches and a cracking finish, which made up for the mud shute in the middle.
mikehenesy - 2nd O/S - Aug/09 with Percy

gdb4060 - AltLd - 23/Jun/09 with Will

1st pitch only, tried to lead it but backed off due to poor protection for the first move. The block I had to lay back off and put the cam behind has a crack all the way around it and sounds hollow. Mike managed to pull through anyway and move the cam higher asap.
Ceridwen - 2nd β - 31/May/09 with Uber Mike

Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Peter Roberts

what's the grade ?
namod - Lead - May/09 with phc

Led both pitches, hard going.
gripped01 - Lead O/S - May/09 with Jim Jarvis

2nd pitch only
simon kimber - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/09 with Hannah Hunt

Hanski - 2nd - 11/Apr/09 with Simon Kimber

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Feb/09

fatfingerz - 2009

The route is really atmospheric, but also a bit esoteric in places, with a few patches of loose rock and muddy/vegitated bits. I think it gets 3 stars for atmosphere though. The first pitch would be tough for anyone who isn't that good at jamming! The second pitch is better quality but awkward at the crux.
al99 - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Martina Zandonella

Very hard first pitch due to jamming problem! Crux in the second too but very atmospheric
martinazando - 2nd - 19/Oct/08 with Al Benson

Dunx - AltLd - 12/Oct/08 with Adam

amazing! first proper E1. very pollished
Adam Humphreys - AltLd RP - 12/Oct/08 with Dunx

First pitch v strenuous, second good fun, lead third. Lovely views..
Ewan Richards - 2nd - 10/Oct/08 with Dave6

After an ignominious retreat from kangeroo wall. There is a bees nest near the crux of P2 of this at the mo.
Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 10/Oct/08 with ewan

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch.
Tim W - AltLd RP - 21/Sep/08 with Oli Warren

leerybunny - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Tim Wilkinson

My favourite bit was the ten metres of wet vertical mud.
Shauna - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/08 with Steve

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/08

Found the overhang on the second pitch "interesting" - judicious use of knees!
Mark Kemball - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/08 with Stacey Ward

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/08

Led first pitch. Thought the crux on the second was harder.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/08 with Will

Lead P1 and P2. Start is hard, dirty limestone jamming. Avoided by using small crimps
Sam W - Lead - 03/Jul/08 with Ali Williams

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/08 with Roger

MikeLell - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/08 with Ian Bryant

Epic! Not sure it's worth three stars, first pitch very sandy, vegetated and unpleasant. The start is quite hard, I fell off and only got it clean on 2nd.
Bart Shaw - AltLd - 01/Jun/08 with Sci

Only did first pitch due to lack of light and energy. Quite strenuous.
localboy - 2nd dog - 27/May/08 with Simon C, Simon F

dirty, polished, loose, 3 stars ?
Chubbard - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08 with C Godfrey

Led pitch 1 & 3 (my 2nd E1!). Adrian led pitch 2. Had a rest in 2 places under the 2nd overhang (too knackered to do it in one go!), but led cleanly apart from the rests. Crux of pitch 2 (which Adrian led, with 1 fall) felt desperate! An absolute classic climb.
Chris Sansum - AltLd dog - 18/May/08 with Adrian Lowe

Gets E1 in the new wye valley guide. Led 1st and 3rd pitches. The very start is brutal jamming on polished foot holds. Took gary's rack and couldn't find a blooding thing! Will take big cams next time.
hash - AltLd dog - 05/Apr/08 with Gary Lewis

Monster!
quadmyre - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Oct/07

Climbed the jamming crack after the crux in v.poor style. Like to go back and lead the second pitch. Proficient jamming needed for the first though
Dr Caterpillar - 2nd dog - 03/Oct/07 with Wayne

Hidden - Oct/07

Lead first pitch, Alex the second one. Run out of quick draws! Hot and sunny at the belay
pelvoux - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Alex

Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/07 with Timmy Elson

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/07 with Jon Hauser

First pitch tough up to the overhang - good bridging practice! Overhang actually a lot easier than it looks. Perfect gear, if you can stop to place it! Going past the overhang on the second pitch also quite tough. Unfortunately the route is a bit vegitated.
Misha - Lead dog - 29/Apr/07

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Feb/07

feilx - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/07 with Tom H

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Jan/07

Hidden - 2007

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 11/Sep/06

Circus - Lead β - 09/Sep/06 with Jack Milton

Strenuous, fell off after the first overhang, then pulled up on the thread.
JackMountains - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/06 with Adam Haward

Striking line, pretty sustained, good gear throughout.
Stefan Kruger - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/06 with Paul Wood

Had quite a big fall, backed off, horrendously polished start, will come back to with more cams and when I'm back in shape.
timharrison - AltLd dnf - 16/Jul/06 with Trevor Macalonan

maybe_si - AltLd dog - 07/Jul/06 with jez

Jez - AltLd dog - 06/Jul/06 with Maybe_Si

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/06

Pitch 1 only. Second didn't follow so I abbed off the ledge.
bpmclimb - Lead dnf - 08/Jun/06 with Clare

Hidden - AltLd dog - 28/May/06

Bern - 2006

mike kann - 2006 with Rob Scheicl

Spacetourist - 2nd O/S - 2006 with Ed Heslam

Hidden - Lead rpt - Jul/05

Now E1? Very sustained crack/corner at the start. Found it very hard. Really enjoyed 2nd pitch
Bux - Lead O/S - Jul/05 with Rupert Bassadone

Stayed dry in the light rain. P1+P2 only - abbed off. 5/6/06 - topping out is now allowed and so the second ab station has now been chopped but this has left a right old mess and people with no desire to walk down will just use the trees instead.
Paz - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/05 with TS2

mikeyjbs - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/05 with lachie

Boxy - Lead β - Apr/05 with Mick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/05

first pitch only
joe_alexander - 2nd - 08/Dec/04 with Gavin Cytlaw

Lev - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/04 with Spen

A good route, dusty lower down, we felt E1 would be a more accurate grade. We had to climb with only one half rope after forgetting the other one!
Wil Treasure - Lead O/S - Apr/04 with AdamW

a_radiohead_fan - 2004

The Pylon King - AltLd O/S - Nov/03 with David Elder

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/03

with Ryan
MikeC59 - Lead dog - 29/Jun/03

Fell off at the first overhang, recent rock fall has increased the difficulty.
woolwatcher - 15/May/03 with Rob Emery/Howard Rentyboy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003

Lead first pitch
simonf - AltLd O/S - 2003 with Martin

Billg - Lead O/S - 2003

Defeated by ropedrag when trying to top out at the very end of the climb.
tomkhoward - Lead dnf - 2003 with John Spear

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/02

dan gibson - Solo O/S - Aug/02

Only did 1st (long) pitch - took belay 1/2 way up it.
JohnHutch - AltLd dnf - 30/Jul/02 with L

simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 2002 with Mr E. Guest

Billg - Lead O/S - 14/May/00 with Phil Thomas

philhilo - AltLd - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Roget - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/96 with jon

Justin Tracey - AltLd - 1996 with Stu Ingram

Before it fell down.
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 1994 with Mark

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jul/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/90

ferret newman - 2nd dog - Aug/90 with Cotswolds Reading crew 1991-1992

A Wednesday after work
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead β - 23/May/90

ChrisJD - Lead - 29/Mar/90

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

Marti999 - AltLd - 1990

Led first and third pitches
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 1990 with James Winspear

Hidden - Lead - 03/Mar/89

Did it when 'men were men' and well protected 5b's were HVS not E1!
surfbish - Lead O/S - 1989

johnyspuitnik - Lead rpt - 1989

babymoac - AltLd - 03/Sep/88 with MTW

nigehughes - AltLd - Jun/88 with Ian Rolland

ChrisJD - AltLd - 06/Mar/88

Guy - Lead O/S - 1987

What a great route
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1987

DDDD - AltLd - 05/Oct/85 with Chris Brown

Hairy Welshman - AltLd O/S - Aug/85 with Ross Robinson

Richard Weller - AltLd - 11/May/85 with james eldridge

neilh - AltLd - Jun/84 with dave croker

sadams - AltLd - 05/Nov/83 with Steve Newman

I led the first pitch
Kafoozalem - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/79 with Roger, Martin Roberts

Sandbag VS in those days ! Felt chuffed when it went up to HVS !
rogerskews - AltLd - 1975 with Keith Jenkins

Nigel Bond - Lead - 21/Apr/74 with Alan

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Voting
Total votes cast 189
hard E20 of 60
E20 of 60
easy E23 of 60
hard E121 of 60
E124 of 60
easy E15 of 60
hard HVS7 of 60
HVS0 of 60
easy HVS0 of 60
hard 5c0 of 64
5c0 of 64
easy 5c2 of 64
hard 5b8 of 64
5b51 of 64
easy 5b1 of 64
hard 5a2 of 64
5a0 of 64
easy 5a0 of 64
3 Stars48 of 65
2 Stars11 of 65
1 Star5 of 65
0 Stars1 of 65
Bag of .....0 of 65
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 218 (0.5%)
Lead71 of 218 (32.6%)
Followed29 of 218 (13.3%)
Alt Leads101 of 218 (46.3%)
Unknown16 of 218 (7.3%)

'Climbed'58 of 218 (26.6%)
clean O/S104 of 218 (47.7%)
clean β7 of 218 (3.2%)
clean rpt14 of 218 (6.4%)
clean RP2 of 218 (0.9%)
dogged22 of 218 (10.1%)
dnf11 of 218 (5.0%)