Simon Allcock - AltLd O/S - 19/May/13 with Jake, Wilki
Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/13
Jon setup the belay stance after P1 quite a bit lower than usual so I lead the second half of P1 and P2. Great climbing, felt really good.
alexjz - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Jon Ayrton
harryjenner - AltLd - 24/Apr/13
tedj234 - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/13 with Harry
Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/13 with Mike
Failed miserably, climbed up to near the top of the initial grove, my excuse being I got really flustered on the dusty jams, and suddenly boiling with my fleece on was unable to sort my feet out and then just got burnt out and had to give up, went up afterwards to strip the gear. Next time will not cock up so badly and confident we will get up it.
Quarryboy - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/13 with James Rich
Hidden - AltLd - 11/Nov/12
pearson9596 - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Ian Faulkner
First and last pitch
ian d f - AltLd - 27/Oct/12 with Michael P
tcn_2002 - AltLd - 27/Oct/12
TimCul - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/12 with thomas codrington
burto - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/12 with tom powell, hertha
Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Ian B, Hertha, Rozzy
jampanman - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/12
Hidden - Oct/12
Led 2nd pitch this time, first is definitely harder. Both good but shame about the bird poo on the second.
thomasadixon - AltLd rpt - 15/Sep/12 with Becca
Lead second pitch, tough moves getting round the overhang but well protected. First pitch initially good but chossy for second half, second pitch covered in bird poo initially then good after.
Tala M - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Mike Brookes
Led pitch 1. Brilliant climbing.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Tom
jampanman - AltLd - 08/Sep/12
Lead the second pitch after a clean lead of the first pitch from James on his first attempt
pelvoux - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with James H
Pete Rigby - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/12 with Sean Murphy
Came off seconding P1 and found crux roof at P2 too much so Gareth lead it - not my best climb
rd20 - 2nd dog - 28/Jul/12 with Gareth H
Polished and overrated.
GarethHall - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Robert Dufton
Tim - P1 - strenuous and totally polished - even more than avon!
Me - P2 - overhang crux too much - Tim finished...
evhall - AltLd dnf - 15/Jul/12 with Tim Bray
grp - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with jon_ridley
lead p2. tricky around the roof
jon_ridley - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Geoff Pyatt
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12
JamesBrowning - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/12 with Toby
Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/12
saintlade - 2012
timtimpeggy - 2012
Hidden - 2012
Tony Kartawick - 2012
AWESOME!!!! Insane corner!
Goose4 - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/11 with Chris Ince
great climb, good adventure, because of the line, strong and long up main face of wintours leap. 2 long pitches that just keep on coming. Downpour at top of first pitch so sat it out for 20 mmins and then finhished it off. Reminded me of Moonraker. Memorable!
middlemarker - Lead - 10/Sep/11 with mike burnett
Hidden - AltLd dog - 10/Sep/11
Nice climb from beginning to the end.
Estelles - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11
Led all 3 pitches. Rested on gear at crux of 1st 2 pitches.
JamesColeman - Lead dog - 19/Aug/11 with Andy
tom.e - Aug/11
Led p1 & p3; found the start brutal (hard pumpy 5b) and the dirt, polish and veg detracted on p1. Second pitch was the best climbing with more rest options possible on the overhang crux moves.
Jon Didymus - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Nick
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11
mattshort - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Dave West
Awesome Managed to milk plenty of rests on the crack section so didn't feel too bad, but overall really good climb!
Dave89 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with matt Short
harrythegunz - 2nd O/S - Jul/11
Led pitch 2 (about VS 5a/5b?). This could be the best limestone route I've done.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/11 with alex malins
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/11
Great positions, but it is dusty, polished, and somewhat loose. Slightly hangover probably didnt help!
Tim M - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Emma
climbergg - 2nd - 14/Jun/11 with cheesesarnie
Paul Bowen - Lead rpt - 21/May/11 with Rebecca Hayes
Chakrit P1 & 3, Chris P2
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 21/May/11 with Chakrit Suriyo
Hidden - AltLd - 15/May/11
Led both pitches (thanks Andy!). Crux of both pitches felt equally hard, brilliant climbing, sustained, first 'proper' E1 and loved it!
Mike Kiss - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with Old man Andy
davidgent - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Joe Prinold
Led 1st (crux) and 3rd pitch. Really nice climbing in between the vegetation!
prinny - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Dave Gent
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/11
Lead p2 pitch, Fraser lead P1
nvalentine760 - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/11
climbed the first pitch but my second was too pumped and so forced to ab off!2 new nuts and malions up for grabs if you want them!
jon_gill1 - Lead dnf - 20/Mar/11 with chris Lyness
Lead middle pitch
ian d f - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/11 with Emmanuel
One word.... EPIC!! both pitches felt 5b, weldone to james for getting his head together and leading the 2nd pitch. Brilliant climb, a right adventure. Led P1
stvredmond - AltLd - 08/Mar/11 with James lane
the crux for me was most definitely not the start, its moving above the roof in the second pitch, literally one move wonder unless you have a really long reach.
j miller - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/11 with filipe dacamara
_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/11 with Tom Harrison
mrfeebus - 2011
Done it 3 times, all before the bottom fell out!
Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 2011 with Geoff Thomas, Ian Owen
Hidden - 2011
alasdair19 - 2011
M_W_Court - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/10
fell twice on the first corner - what a b*tch!
suffolknick - AltLd dog - 10/Oct/10 with clams
friend 3s for P1, which is a real pig
clams - Lead O/S - Oct/10 with NB
Wow. Well now I know the name 'King Kong' evokes not only the wild apelike strength and stamina required to do the moves, but also the jungle-like environment in which they are carried out... not to mention the generally epic nature of the experience. I've never seen quite such a mixture of choss and polish - though if that doesn't put you off I'd definitely recommend the route!
Definitely an adventure route, though the cruxes are well protected. I vote E2 for the starting groove. I know many would disagree and I can understand the 'hard E1' perspective but I found it harder than any E2 I have done in the Wye valley, so maybe if you think that you should downgrade everything else. Or maybe I just did it wrong..?
Stone Muppet - Lead dog - 22/Sep/10 with Paz
led 2nd pitch to roof and had a few go's but talked myself out of it, gutted really because i pissed it after gav led it!!! awesome route....it is what it says on the tin!!***
brew_guru - 2nd β - 21/Sep/10 with super gav
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10
lead Pitch 2 (5a). fantastic moves around the arete - fairly exposed on P1 and great clean climbing up the crack on P2... not worth three stars though, too much loose/broken parts and vegetation.
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with Remus Knowles
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 20/Jul/10
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10
Seconded first pitch ok. Led second pitch to roof and fell off ripping gear and injuring shoulder. Need to work on feet and gear placements
mick1jones - AltLd dnf - 10/Jul/10 with Chris Dale, John Martin
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/10
brill route, the first pitch is pumpy if you can't jam and I'm not very good put the odd jam in but did not pull on 1 layed back bridged it all. A lot easier I guess if ur a good jammer. Mick lead second pitch struggled on the overhang, he fell off and his gear ripped had a nasty fall hurt his shoulder bad, had to lower him off get well soon mick. I lead second pitch move over overhang a bit polished, mick missed a bommer nut and a small foothold hard 5a johny lead last pitch. Then off to bristol hospital
Dale - AltLd O/S - Jul/10 with mick, johny
P1: Horrible polished and probably E1. Middle bit is a bit vegetated and loose. Top of p1 is quality. p2: cool moves on big holds.
Glyn - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/10 with Bez
pretty fucking good, tough start, a bit vegetated in the middle but second pitch was good quality rock.
gknyus - 2nd β - 23/Jun/10 with Welshman
bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/10 with Clare
Too weak to lead!!! Will go do it when I'm strong!!!
jhawton - 2nd - 18/Jun/10 with danJBA
danJBA - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/10
muttley_109 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Steven Delaney
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10
Sunny happy days tree roots
gonggashan - AltLd - Jun/10
stuart34 - 2nd - 28/May/10
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10 with Harry
dan gibson - Lead rpt - 20/May/10
Led first pitch.
Don't think it should have been upgraded to E1 in recent guide. Feel the start is fair at a toughish HVS 5a - you get to solid locker jams for your hands before you have to take your feet off the massive holds. Certainly would not be graded harder than HVS in the Peak. Second pitch also has a couple of tough moves. Still vote for hard HVS overall though. Excellent route.
There is loads of gear everywhere - I didnt use any of the old pegs that are in place.
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 09/May/10 with Ray, Andy Morris
Led the second pitch. Thought both pitches about hard HVS, and very good.
AJM - AltLd O/S - 09/May/10 with Ray Harris, Simon de Haas
Too polished to be really fun. Led P1, with a rest at the start, and very nearly popped off the top of the pitch as I realized I was fully committed, with terrible footholds and no gear since a rusted old piton 3m below.
Felt a bit hard for E1, mostly because of the polish on the cruxes.
Alexandre Buisse - AltLd - 24/Apr/10 with Max
natalietanzer - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with nacnud
Vince McNally - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Sumee Holloway
nacnud - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/10 with Natalie Tanzer
First pitch only. It has a very polished key foothold but otherwise nice steady jamming and bridging. One of those pitches that would feel a LOT harder without cams tho..
Alan100 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10
First Pitch Only. Ab-d of the ledge.
James_86 - 2nd rpt - 17/Apr/10 with Jacob
Luke Marsden - 2nd dog - Apr/10 with Keith Marsden
one fall at crux of second pitch
toasted - Lead dog - 14/Mar/10 with maxpie
P1 only (Richard changed his mind about P2-3).
Chris Sansum - 2nd dnf - 13/Mar/10 with Richard Lade
koalapie - 2nd β - Mar/10
Luke Marsden - 2nd dog - 2010 with Keith Marsden
jimmatthews - Lead - 2010
tried to find the line of stairway to heaven but got lost. Did this instead. Most pleasant especially the mud and dust
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09 with Tiger Tom
Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09
led P1, 2nd P2. polished but still worthwhile.
Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Eric Herring
quality climbing on a quality day. did in two pitches, had to dig a few holds out of the dirt, particulary on the crux of pitch 2. awesome route.
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with B.Brewer
For me a bit of a warm and dirty stuggle, like wrestling a big pig in a sauna, bonza lead from Percy though. Great start to the first and second pitches and a cracking finish, which made up for the mud shute in the middle.
mikehenesy - 2nd O/S - Aug/09 with Percy
gdb4060 - AltLd - 23/Jun/09 with Will
1st pitch only, tried to lead it but backed off due to poor protection for the first move. The block I had to lay back off and put the cam behind has a crack all the way around it and sounds hollow. Mike managed to pull through anyway and move the cam higher asap.
Ceridwen - 2nd β - 31/May/09 with Uber Mike
Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Peter Roberts
what's the grade ?
namod - Lead - May/09 with phc
Led both pitches, hard going.
gripped01 - Lead O/S - May/09 with Jim Jarvis
2nd pitch only
simon kimber - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/09 with Hannah Hunt
Hanski - 2nd - 11/Apr/09 with Simon Kimber
Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Feb/09
fatfingerz - 2009
The route is really atmospheric, but also a bit esoteric in places, with a few patches of loose rock and muddy/vegitated bits. I think it gets 3 stars for atmosphere though. The first pitch would be tough for anyone who isn't that good at jamming! The second pitch is better quality but awkward at the crux.
al99 - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Martina Zandonella
Very hard first pitch due to jamming problem! Crux in the second too but very atmospheric
martinazando - 2nd - 19/Oct/08 with Al Benson
Dunx - AltLd - 12/Oct/08 with Adam
amazing! first proper E1. very pollished
Adam Humphreys - AltLd RP - 12/Oct/08 with Dunx
First pitch v strenuous, second good fun, lead third. Lovely views..
Ewan Richards - 2nd - 10/Oct/08 with Dave6
After an ignominious retreat from kangeroo wall. There is a bees nest near the crux of P2 of this at the mo.
Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 10/Oct/08 with ewan
Lead 1st and 3rd pitch.
Tim W - AltLd RP - 21/Sep/08 with Oli Warren
leerybunny - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Tim Wilkinson
My favourite bit was the ten metres of wet vertical mud.
Shauna - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/08 with Steve
Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/08
Found the overhang on the second pitch "interesting" - judicious use of knees!
Mark Kemball - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/08 with Stacey Ward
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/08
Led first pitch. Thought the crux on the second was harder.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/08 with Will
Lead P1 and P2. Start is hard, dirty limestone jamming. Avoided by using small crimps
Sam W - Lead - 03/Jul/08 with Ali Williams
bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/08 with Roger
MikeLell - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/08 with Ian Bryant
Epic! Not sure it's worth three stars, first pitch very sandy, vegetated and unpleasant. The start is quite hard, I fell off and only got it clean on 2nd.
Bart Shaw - AltLd - 01/Jun/08 with Sci
Only did first pitch due to lack of light and energy. Quite strenuous.
localboy - 2nd dog - 27/May/08 with Simon C, Simon F
dirty, polished, loose, 3 stars ?
Chubbard - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08 with C Godfrey
Led pitch 1 & 3 (my 2nd E1!). Adrian led pitch 2. Had a rest in 2 places under the 2nd overhang (too knackered to do it in one go!), but led cleanly apart from the rests. Crux of pitch 2 (which Adrian led, with 1 fall) felt desperate!
An absolute classic climb.
Chris Sansum - AltLd dog - 18/May/08 with Adrian Lowe
Gets E1 in the new wye valley guide. Led 1st and 3rd pitches. The very start is brutal jamming on polished foot holds. Took gary's rack and couldn't find a blooding thing! Will take big cams next time.
hash - AltLd dog - 05/Apr/08 with Gary Lewis
quadmyre - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Wifey
Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Oct/07
Climbed the jamming crack after the crux in v.poor style. Like to go back and lead the second pitch. Proficient jamming needed for the first though
Dr Caterpillar - 2nd dog - 03/Oct/07 with Wayne
Hidden - Oct/07
Lead first pitch, Alex the second one. Run out of quick draws! Hot and sunny at the belay
pelvoux - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Alex
Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/07 with Timmy Elson
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/07 with Jon Hauser
First pitch tough up to the overhang - good bridging practice! Overhang actually a lot easier than it looks. Perfect gear, if you can stop to place it! Going past the overhang on the second pitch also quite tough. Unfortunately the route is a bit vegitated.
Misha - Lead dog - 29/Apr/07
Hidden - AltLd - 04/Feb/07
feilx - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/07 with Tom H
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Jan/07
Hidden - 2007
dan gibson - Lead rpt - 11/Sep/06
Circus - Lead β - 09/Sep/06 with Jack Milton
Strenuous, fell off after the first overhang, then pulled up on the thread.
JackMountains - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/06 with Adam Haward
Striking line, pretty sustained, good gear throughout.
Stefan Kruger - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/06 with Paul Wood
Had quite a big fall, backed off, horrendously polished start, will come back to with more cams and when I'm back in shape.
timharrison - AltLd dnf - 16/Jul/06 with Trevor Macalonan
maybe_si - AltLd dog - 07/Jul/06 with jez
Jez - AltLd dog - 06/Jul/06 with Maybe_Si
Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/06
Pitch 1 only. Second didn't follow so I abbed off the ledge.
bpmclimb - Lead dnf - 08/Jun/06 with Clare
Hidden - AltLd dog - 28/May/06
Bern - 2006
mike kann - 2006 with Rob Scheicl
Spacetourist - 2nd O/S - 2006 with Ed Heslam
Hidden - Lead rpt - Jul/05
Now E1? Very sustained crack/corner at the start. Found it very hard. Really enjoyed 2nd pitch
Bux - Lead O/S - Jul/05 with Rupert Bassadone
Stayed dry in the light rain. P1+P2 only - abbed off. 5/6/06 - topping out is now allowed and so the second ab station has now been chopped but this has left a right old mess and people with no desire to walk down will just use the trees instead.
Paz - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/05 with TS2
mikeyjbs - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/05 with lachie
Boxy - Lead β - Apr/05 with Mick
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/05
first pitch only
joe_alexander - 2nd - 08/Dec/04 with Gavin Cytlaw
Lev - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/04 with Spen
A good route, dusty lower down, we felt E1 would be a more accurate grade. We had to climb with only one half rope after forgetting the other one!
Wil Treasure - Lead O/S - Apr/04 with AdamW
a_radiohead_fan - 2004
The Pylon King - AltLd O/S - Nov/03 with David Elder
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/03
MikeC59 - Lead dog - 29/Jun/03
Fell off at the first overhang, recent rock fall has increased the difficulty.
woolwatcher - 15/May/03 with Rob Emery/Howard Rentyboy
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003
Lead first pitch
simonf - AltLd O/S - 2003 with Martin
Billg - Lead O/S - 2003
Defeated by ropedrag when trying to top out at the very end of the climb.
tomkhoward - Lead dnf - 2003 with John Spear
pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/02
dan gibson - Solo O/S - Aug/02
Only did 1st (long) pitch - took belay 1/2 way up it.
JohnHutch - AltLd dnf - 30/Jul/02 with L
simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 2002 with Mr E. Guest
Billg - Lead O/S - 14/May/00 with Phil Thomas
philhilo - AltLd - 2000
Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000
Roget - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/96 with jon
Justin Tracey - AltLd - 1996 with Stu Ingram
Before it fell down.
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 1994 with Mark
Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jul/91
Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/90
ferret newman - 2nd dog - Aug/90 with Cotswolds Reading crew 1991-1992
A Wednesday after work
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead β - 23/May/90
ChrisJD - Lead - 29/Mar/90
Hidden - AltLd - 1990
Marti999 - AltLd - 1990
Led first and third pitches
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 1990 with James Winspear
Hidden - Lead - 03/Mar/89
Did it when 'men were men' and well protected 5b's were HVS not E1!
surfbish - Lead O/S - 1989
johnyspuitnik - Lead rpt - 1989
babymoac - AltLd - 03/Sep/88 with MTW
nigehughes - AltLd - Jun/88 with Ian Rolland
ChrisJD - AltLd - 06/Mar/88
Guy - Lead O/S - 1987
What a great route
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1987
DDDD - AltLd - 05/Oct/85 with Chris Brown
Hairy Welshman - AltLd O/S - Aug/85 with Ross Robinson
Richard Weller - AltLd - 11/May/85 with james eldridge
neilh - AltLd - Jun/84 with dave croker
sadams - AltLd - 05/Nov/83 with Steve Newman
I led the first pitch
Kafoozalem - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/79 with Roger, Martin Roberts
Sandbag VS in those days ! Felt chuffed when it went up to HVS !
rogerskews - AltLd - 1975 with Keith Jenkins
Nigel Bond - Lead - 21/Apr/74 with Alan