King Kong*** E1 5b
[brixton climbers in the wye valley    king kong before he lost his arse, 3 kb]5b,5a,-.

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Photo: brixton climbers in the wye valley king kong before he lost his arse © brixton climber
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This climb is in 348 logbooks, and on 70 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Sep/15

P2. Lovely weather and day. 2*?
shoulders - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/15 with rich smith

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/15

Hidden - 2nd - 18/Aug/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/15

polished start and full body tension using fist jams at start. Trev did 2 pitchs in one push. abseiled off 2nd pitch (time)
pdrums777 - 2nd O/S - Aug/15 with Gareth (trev)

Brilliant route. Kc P1 me P2 the start is the harder work. Not very technical. Loved the bit before the first belay. And pitch 2 is the crux. 5b. And great climbing and gear all the way. Did it with head torches on to add to the fun. Topped out at 11o'clock. 3***s from me.
luke glaister - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/15 with casey johns

casey johns - AltLd dog - 28/Jul/15 with luke glaister

Led both pitches. First pitch is horrifically pumpy but with no one individual hard move. Generally well protected. Good footwork is needed on the starting overhang/groove/crack to avoid pumping out, but otherwise it's fairly straight forward. Pitch two has the hardest move of the route in my opinion trying to get over the biggest roof. The route overall is harder than half a dozen E2's I have done at Wintours/Shorn cliff/Symonds Yat, no idea how it only gets E1. Regardless, by far and away the best E1 I have ever done. Kind of a south wales version of The Plum at Tremadog
jsmcfarland - Lead O/S - 22/Jul/15 with Sally

Hidden - 2nd - 22/Jul/15

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Jun/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/15

What a route! Got lucky with our timing as two other pairs went to do the route on the same day, however we got there minutes before them. First 15 meters was hard and strenuous. The second pitch crux was fine once committed!
steve-grigg - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/15 with Thomas Mai

thomasmai - 2nd β - 10/Jun/15 with Steve Grigg

Nice long route, I found the the 2nd pitch felt more interesting. Lead pitch 2+3 together without drag issues.
Tom Brierley Gore - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/15 with Shijing Hu

AngelaC - 2nd - 03/Jun/15 with Rick Sewards

thomasmai - 2nd - Jun/15 with Steve Grigg

Greg lead the first pitch, I lead the second one. I didn't feel like the polish was limiting in any way, so don't let the guidebook deter you from climbing this great line! It was a little dirty towards the top though ...
GeneralFifi - AltLd O/S - 25/May/15 with Greg Headley

gheadley27 - AltLd O/S - 25/May/15 with GeneralFifi

Took Ben on his First Multi!! I thought it was a sick route - didnt really have much big gear which made it interesting! Classic!
RichyBOYY - Lead O/S - 20/May/15 with Ben M

Benzo - 2nd O/S - 20/May/15 with Ric

led all pitches, first intimidating crack seemed fairly straightforward jamming. The roof on the 2nd pitch was the crux for me. Great adventure.
Graeme Hammond - Lead O/S - 17/May/15 with Becky E

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 01/May/15

Me - P1&3, Martin P2 All pitches felt hard for their given grade. Plenty of gear throughout. First section felt very pumpy. Fantastic.
Stuart William - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/15 with Martin

harry_lewis - AltLd - 09/Apr/15 with Jed

Lead 2nd Pitch
jedster1111 - AltLd - 09/Apr/15 with harry_lewis

grp - Lead - 08/Apr/15

pitch 1 me, pitch 2 geoff.
James S - AltLd O/S - 08/Apr/15 with geoff

I lead to the terrace and mike finished it off. Don't think this is anywhere near a three star route due to the completely average middle section. The first part went better than expected, didn't use a single hand jam either. Mike had fun on the pitch 2 crux.
felixizzy - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/15 with Mike

Finally put this one to bed after having to lower off some years back when Chris who hadnt been back climbing long couldnt get past the overhang. Probably a good job as i found the crux on pitch 2 very hard turning the roof! Chris p1,p3 Me p2
jon_gill1 - AltLd rpt - 21/Mar/15 with chris Lyness

Second and easy third pitch only after traversing in from Der Fuhrer. Going round roof commiting. Interesting using someone else's rack but the information that came with it invaluable :-)
leigh - Lead β - 21/Mar/15 with Gav

lead 1st and 3rd pitch, great commitment from Olly on the second pitch.
brices - AltLd O/S - 15/Mar/15 with Olly

Hands and feet numb and cramping whilst following first pitch, took a tumble on second pitch when my foot slipped off a smear due to the bird shit caked holds encountered shortly before, and hit a ledge. Finished it up and did a big of vertical gardening to reach the belay. 3rd pitch not really worth mentioning.
ollie_e - AltLd RP - 15/Mar/15 with Simon Brice

Really struggled again on P1. Just not used to hand-jamming and trusting feet on polish. Felt very "thuggy" but good route to practice that style of climbing. Failed to lead P2 as couldn't work out the crux sequence, then sent partner up and he did it a completely different way - so much easier!
druss - 2nd dog - 12/Mar/15 with argentinian machine

Not really worth all the adulation. First part of P1 was fun, "distressingly polished" is apt for the move getting into the corner. Rest of the pitch fairly average. P2 fun and enjoyable apart from the torrent of dirt that comes down from the top when seconding it.
Sam Watson - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/15 with James Cowley

ian bryant - Lead - 2015

mike.moss - AltLd dog - 05/Oct/14 with Kirill Spiridonov

Tremendous route! So sustained! I led P1. Mike - P2. P2 is definitely harder. We didn't bother with the P3, abbed off.
Kirill - AltLd O/S - 05/Oct/14 with Mike Moss

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/14

I lead the second pitch at HVS. Great move up and around the overhang.
Legs - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/14 with Macca

P1+2, Ben took the last pitch
LJC - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/14 with Anna, Little Ben

BDC - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/14 with luca

soooooooo polished at the base!
tskelhon - AltLd O/S - Sep/14 with Charlotte

clmacdonald - AltLd - Sep/14 with tskelhon

mop449 - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Dom Joyce, Phillip Wright

No idea how I made it up the first pitch. Took way more strength than I had. Couldn't seem to get a good hand jam in the first section. Slipped on the ridiculously polished foothold. Made it the second time, luckily as my partner would have had to come and got his gear. 2nd and 3rd pitches were much better for me, even with pumped out arms from the 1st. Watch out for loose rocks on the 2nd and the dead branch on 3rd. Must remember next time I say I will follow my mate up whatever he fancies, to be more specific I.e. 'I'll follow you up anything that is technical, requiring very little strength.'
Katsmiff - 2nd RP - 24/Aug/14 with Martin Bagshaw

Well I thought it was fun!
Martin Bagshaw - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Catherine Smith

ollie1 - Lead dog - 23/Aug/14 with Noodles, Olly Ryan

Jack.H.92 - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/14 with Sarah

1st attempt at p1 I climbed like a moron, missed the semi rest and just generally did it wrong, resulting in a large lob onto the chockstone ending up near the ground. Managed fine 2nd time around. Top of p1 is awesome. p2 good fun. But overall while it is a great route its not 3* for me
Cheese Monkey - AltLd RP - 13/Aug/14 with Peter

Led pitch 2. All good, but no more than 2*.
pheotleyr - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/14 with Ben

Should've not given into temptation and waited till fresh. Tired from previous two climbs and polish didn't help with relaxing whilst progressing up the crack.
druss - Lead dnf - 09/Aug/14

Fabulous fabulous climb...first 10 meters was tough - tiny footholds that were polished.
sara n - AltLd - 03/Aug/14 with Paul Wolf

simon kimber - Solo - 27/Jul/14

skippington - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14

Lead P1 clean onsight. My second could not climb the P1 and I had to ab. My most serious pitch of rock trad climbing to date.
andrzej kierzek - Lead dnf - 29/Jun/14 with Tara

danmullett - AltLd O/S - 29/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd dog - 14/Jun/14

LucasHarazin - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jun/14

JM - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Stevo

Andy Smallwood - AltLd O/S - 21/May/14

CA1289 - 2nd - 21/May/14

second pitch only as linked from kangaroo wall by accident
jack1996 - Lead O/S - 21/May/14

Connoor - 21/May/14

What a beauty! Two great pitches, the first is a bit of a thrutchfest for the first ten meters...
Scotsken - Lead O/S - 18/May/14 with Sven Heaps

Slipped off the polished holds just after getting into the crack at about 5m. Pulled ropes and started again, fine from then on.
will_benfold - Lead rpt - 17/May/14 with Sarah Woodrow

Pintsize - 2nd - 17/May/14 with Will Benfold

pearson9596 - Lead rpt - 17/May/14

Climbed with a random old boy I met at the crag. Had no gear, so I used his rack - which included a 1967 MOAC (protects the crux on the second pitch perfectly) Peck Crackers, a shanty selection of hexes (on original 80's cord) and no draws. Thankfully he had a cam that fitted under the first overhang. All good fun, and makes me realise how much easier we have it these days!
simon kimber - Lead rpt - 16/May/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/14

An impressive line until you get up close where it is dirty, loose and polished. Found second pitch to be better quality. Not sure it is worth all the accolades.
monsteratt - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/14 with Dan Fairbank

Matt.c.Warner - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/14 with Troy

jcw - 2014

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13

Simon lead P1 and 2, and I, P3.
masa-alpin - AltLd rpt - 14/Sep/13 with Simon P

Only did P1, not enough time for the rest. Very messy 2nd though!
craigaj.ace - 2nd - 10/Sep/13 with James

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/13

Dunx - AltLd rpt - 31/Aug/13 with Tom Slader

He put up a good fight
TimKnight - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Dave Marshall

At last! I lead P1 and P2, Dave did P3. Adele backed off at the initial flaked groove. I found the roof of the P2 was the crux, but Dave apparently climbed it differently and found it to be not too bad. Fairly dirty, dusty, loose in places and very polished, but the moves were honest and good, the line was very strong. My verdict was a good route, whereas Dave didn't like it.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/13 with Dave W-J, Adele L

Loose block - backed off.
LJC - Lead - 10/Aug/13 with Tom, ben.richards

Tom Livingstone - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/13 with Dan Lane

P2. Jammed my way up p1 so it didn't feel too hard. P2 is delightful upto a stiff pull then some jungle-bashing to the top. Abseiled off the tat on the thread belay (which ideally needs replacing with 11mm rope).
Dan Lane - AltLd O/S - 09/Aug/13 with Tom Livingstone

Finally psyched myself up to lead this after seconding back in June.. Made a meal of the start... Used the in-situ gear to aid... Jamming technique needs some work! Pitch 2 was clean - but not pretty! Pitch 3 was a pleasurable climb out! Just happy to lead the whole thing and not fall off! Aim to climb it clean next time (year).
AndyF - Lead dog - 08/Aug/13 with Gregor

Awesome stuff. Grabbed the in situ sling on the first pitch. Need to work on my jamming.. I think I would have fallen off the roof crux of the 2nd pitch if it wasn't for a little balance assistance from the rope :D
Echna - 2nd dog - 08/Aug/13 with Andy

tonevert - Lead dog - 22/Jul/13 with paul

Paul Eckton - 2nd - 20/Jul/13 with Tony Johnson

Blazing hot day and a 3.5 hour epic. Led P1&3. Got past the crux without much trouble, moved onto the slab and got lost for a bit. Found the groove again and got to 2m from the belay, then just didn't have the strength left for the final polished move. After a long rest and 3 falls, I decided I just couldn't make it and aided the last move. It's only about 4c, I was just thrashed. We both spent a long time resting on the ledge and then Chris led P2. I think that overhang is harder than anything on P1, and much bolder.
Hooo - AltLd dog - 07/Jul/13 with Chris Sieradzki

Led P2. I think it's little bit hard E1. Definitely not good introduction to the grade. P1 strenuous on the bottom groove than steady and one tricky move just before ledge. P2 is very easy except one move by the overhang which in my opinion is the crux of the whole route. Much harder than 5a. 5b without the doubt. At the top of P2 before grassy bit when you look down you can see how long route is. Nice feeling.
Chris Sieradzki - AltLd O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Hooo

the first 30' are very hard
wilkinscl - 2nd - 05/Jul/13

Lead P2, both pitches were great, good jamming on P1 with thin footholds followed by some great technical climbing. P2 was easier but the overhang felt hard for 5a
alastairbegley - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Nick Russell

Great positions, worth it just to sit for a while at the belay ledge! Shame about the loose vegetated parts in the middle of p1 and the top of p2. I led p1 and found it a bit of a battle, but not unfair for E1. (If I'd taken more big gear and was a bit better practiced at jamming it would be fine.)
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/13 with Alastair Begley

Oh dear! Led p1, just about. Not at all awake or warmed up & climbing like a complete spanner. Slipped below the initial overhang & lobbed onto the in situ tat. Got lowered off, pulled the ropes through & did it on the second attempt. And yet, despite it all, I would grade the whole route HVS 5a
cem - AltLd RP - 29/Jun/13 with Graham Dolman

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Jun/13

Pete Rigby - AltLd - 09/Jun/13 with Jim Tan

Pretty Epic. Mixed climbing, nothing pretty or elegant about it, 1 big pull up all the way up! Start of first pitch is great, nice jamming crack, traverse right fhen atraight up. 2nd pitch has a pretty epic roof which is easier than it looks, tops out on a sketchy grassy bank to a ledge. Watch out for the wrotten log! 3rd pitch really short with nice easy climbing up a flake to the finish. Aim to lead it one day - but not quit ready yet!
AndyF - 2nd O/S - 05/Jun/13 with Mike

mallardhealhook - 2nd O/S - 04/Jun/13

Simon Allcock - AltLd O/S - 19/May/13 with Jake, Wilki

adam 24 - AltLd - May/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/13

Jon setup the belay stance after P1 quite a bit lower than usual so I lead the second half of P1 and P2. Great climbing, felt really good.
alexjz - AltLd O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Jon Ayrton

harryjenner - AltLd - 24/Apr/13

tedj234 - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/13 with Harry

Julesthe1st - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/13 with Mike

Failed miserably, climbed up to near the top of the initial grove, my excuse being I got really flustered on the dusty jams, and suddenly boiling with my fleece on was unable to sort my feet out and then just got burnt out and had to give up, went up afterwards to strip the gear. Next time will not cock up so badly and confident we will get up it.
Quarryboy - Lead dnf - 20/Apr/13 with James Rich

ianto - 2013

Hidden - 2013

cymjt - 2013

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Nov/12

pearson9596 - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Ian Faulkner

First and last pitch
ian d f - AltLd - 27/Oct/12 with Michael P

tcn_2002 - AltLd - 27/Oct/12

TimCul - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/12 with thomas codrington

burto - AltLd O/S - 14/Oct/12 with tom powell, hertha

Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12 with Ian B, Hertha, Rozzy

therat - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/12

Hidden - Oct/12

harry_lewis - AltLd dog - Oct/12 with Jed

jedster1111 - AltLd dog - Oct/12 with harry_lewis

Led 2nd pitch this time, first is definitely harder. Both good but shame about the bird poo on the second.
thomasadixon - AltLd rpt - 15/Sep/12 with Becca

Lead second pitch, tough moves getting round the overhang but well protected. First pitch initially good but chossy for second half, second pitch covered in bird poo initially then good after.
Tala M - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Mike Brookes

Led pitch 1. Brilliant climbing.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 15/Sep/12 with Tom

therat - AltLd - 08/Sep/12

Lead the second pitch after a clean lead of the first pitch from James on his first attempt
pelvoux - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/12 with James H

Pete Rigby - Lead dnf - 11/Aug/12 with Sean Murphy

Came off seconding P1 and found crux roof at P2 too much so Gareth lead it - not my best climb
rd20 - 2nd dog - 28/Jul/12 with Gareth H

Polished and overrated.
GarethHall - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Robert Dufton

Hidden - TR - 17/Jul/12

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 15/Jul/12

grp - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with jon_ridley

lead p2. tricky around the roof
jon_ridley - AltLd O/S - 19/May/12 with Geoff Pyatt

Hidden - Lead - 13/May/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/May/12

JamesBrowning - 2nd dog - 25/Mar/12 with Toby

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jan/12

saintlade - 2012

timtimpeggy - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

AWESOME!!!! Insane corner!
Goose4 - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/11 with Chris Ince

great climb, good adventure, because of the line, strong and long up main face of wintours leap. 2 long pitches that just keep on coming. Downpour at top of first pitch so sat it out for 20 mmins and then finhished it off. Reminded me of Moonraker. Memorable!
manwithacam - Lead - 10/Sep/11 with mike burnett

Hidden - AltLd dog - 10/Sep/11

Nice climb from beginning to the end.
Estelles - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/11

Led all 3 pitches. Rested on gear at crux of 1st 2 pitches.
JamesColeman - Lead dog - 19/Aug/11 with Andy

tom.e - Aug/11

Led p1 & p3; found the start brutal (hard pumpy 5b) and the dirt, polish and veg detracted on p1. Second pitch was the best climbing with more rest options possible on the overhang crux moves.
Jon Didymus - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/11 with Nick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/11

mattshort - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with Dave West

Awesome Managed to milk plenty of rests on the crack section so didn't feel too bad, but overall really good climb!
Dave89 - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/11 with matt Short

harrythegunz - 2nd O/S - Jul/11

Led pitch 2 (about VS 5a/5b?). This could be the best limestone route I've done.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/11 with alex malins

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jun/11

Great positions, but it is dusty, polished, and somewhat loose. Slightly hangover probably didnt help!
Tim M - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with Emma

climbergg - 2nd - 14/Jun/11 with cheesesarnie

Paul Bowen - Lead rpt - 21/May/11 with Rebecca Hayes

Chakrit P1 & 3, Chris P2
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 21/May/11 with Chakrit Suriyo

chakrit - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Chris

Hidden - AltLd - 15/May/11

Led both pitches (thanks Andy!). Crux of both pitches felt equally hard, brilliant climbing, sustained, first 'proper' E1 and loved it!
Mike Kiss - Lead O/S - 08/May/11 with Old man Andy

Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - 01/May/11 with Andy Forbes

Lead P2
davidgent - Lead O/S - 25/Apr/11 with Joe Prinold

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/11

Lead p2 pitch, Fraser lead P1
nvalentine760 - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/11

climbed the first pitch but my second was too pumped and so forced to ab off!2 new nuts and malions up for grabs if you want them!
jon_gill1 - Lead dnf - 20/Mar/11 with chris Lyness

Lead middle pitch
ian d f - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/11 with Emmanuel

One word.... EPIC!! both pitches felt 5b, weldone to james for getting his head together and leading the 2nd pitch. Brilliant climb, a right adventure. Led P1
stvredmond - AltLd - 08/Mar/11 with James lane

the crux for me was most definitely not the start, its moving above the roof in the second pitch, literally one move wonder unless you have a really long reach.
j miller - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/11 with filipe dacamara

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/11 with Tom Harrison

Hidden - 2011

Done it 3 times, all before the bottom fell out!
Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 2011 with Geoff Thomas, Ian Owen

Hidden - 2011

alasdair19 - 2011

M_W_Court - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/10

fell twice on the first corner - what a b*tch!
suffolknick - AltLd dog - 10/Oct/10 with clams

friend 3s for P1, which is a real pig
clams - Lead O/S - Oct/10 with NB

Wow. Well now I know the name 'King Kong' evokes not only the wild apelike strength and stamina required to do the moves, but also the jungle-like environment in which they are carried out... not to mention the generally epic nature of the experience. I've never seen quite such a mixture of choss and polish - though if that doesn't put you off I'd definitely recommend the route! Definitely an adventure route, though the cruxes are well protected. I vote E2 for the starting groove. I know many would disagree and I can understand the 'hard E1' perspective but I found it harder than any E2 I have done in the Wye valley, so maybe if you think that you should downgrade everything else. Or maybe I just did it wrong..?
Stone Muppet - Lead dog - 22/Sep/10 with Paz

led 2nd pitch to roof and had a few go's but talked myself out of it, gutted really because i pissed it after gav led it!!! awesome is what it says on the tin!!***
brew_guru - 2nd β - 21/Sep/10 with super gav

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10

lead Pitch 2 (5a). fantastic moves around the arete - fairly exposed on P1 and great clean climbing up the crack on P2... not worth three stars though, too much loose/broken parts and vegetation.
benkelsey - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with Remus Knowles

Hidden - 2nd - 23/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 20/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10

Seconded first pitch ok. Led second pitch to roof and fell off ripping gear and injuring shoulder. Need to work on feet and gear placements
mick1jones - AltLd dnf - 10/Jul/10 with Chris Dale, John Martin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/10

brill route, the first pitch is pumpy if you can't jam and I'm not very good put the odd jam in but did not pull on 1 layed back bridged it all. A lot easier I guess if ur a good jammer. Mick lead second pitch struggled on the overhang, he fell off and his gear ripped had a nasty fall hurt his shoulder bad, had to lower him off get well soon mick. I lead second pitch move over overhang a bit polished, mick missed a bommer nut and a small foothold hard 5a johny lead last pitch. Then off to bristol hospital
Dale - AltLd O/S - Jul/10 with mick, johny

P1: Horrible polished and probably E1. Middle bit is a bit vegetated and loose. Top of p1 is quality. p2: cool moves on big holds.
Glyn - Lead O/S - 23/Jun/10 with Bez

pretty fucking good, tough start, a bit vegetated in the middle but second pitch was good quality rock.
gknyus - 2nd β - 23/Jun/10 with Welshman

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 19/Jun/10 with Clare

Too weak to lead!!! Will go do it when I'm strong!!!
jhawton - 2nd - 18/Jun/10 with danJBA

2 pitches
danJBA - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/10

muttley_109 - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10 with Steven Delaney

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/10

Sunny happy days tree roots
gonggashan - AltLd - Jun/10

stuart34 - 2nd - 28/May/10

Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 24/May/10 with Harry

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 20/May/10

Led first pitch. Don't think it should have been upgraded to E1 in recent guide. Feel the start is fair at a toughish HVS 5a - you get to solid locker jams for your hands before you have to take your feet off the massive holds. Certainly would not be graded harder than HVS in the Peak. Second pitch also has a couple of tough moves. Still vote for hard HVS overall though. Excellent route. There is loads of gear everywhere - I didnt use any of the old pegs that are in place.
Si dH - AltLd O/S - 09/May/10 with Ray, Andy Morris

Led the second pitch. Thought both pitches about hard HVS, and very good.
AJM - AltLd O/S - 09/May/10 with Ray Harris, Simon de Haas

Too polished to be really fun. Led P1, with a rest at the start, and very nearly popped off the top of the pitch as I realized I was fully committed, with terrible footholds and no gear since a rusted old piton 3m below. Felt a bit hard for E1, mostly because of the polish on the cruxes.
Alexandre Buisse - AltLd - 24/Apr/10 with Max

natalietanzer - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/10 with nacnud

3 Names - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Sumee Holloway

nacnud - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/10 with Natalie Tanzer

First pitch only. It has a very polished key foothold but otherwise nice steady jamming and bridging. One of those pitches that would feel a LOT harder without cams tho..
Alan100 - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

First Pitch Only. Ab-d of the ledge.
James_86 - 2nd rpt - 17/Apr/10 with Jacob

Luke Marsden - 2nd dog - Apr/10 with Keith Marsden

one fall at crux of second pitch
toasted - Lead dog - 14/Mar/10 with maxpie

P1 only (Richard changed his mind about P2-3).
Chris Sansum - 2nd dnf - 13/Mar/10 with Richard Lade

koalapie - 2nd β - Mar/10

Luke Marsden - 2nd dog - 2010 with Keith Marsden

jimmatthews - AltLd - 2010 with simon kimber, James Davies

Hidden - Lead - 2010

tried to find the line of stairway to heaven but got lost. Did this instead. Most pleasant especially the mud and dust
chris wyatt - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/09 with Tiger Tom

Matt Bennett - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/09

led P1, 2nd P2. polished but still worthwhile.
Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 09/Aug/09 with Eric Herring

quality climbing on a quality day. did in two pitches, had to dig a few holds out of the dirt, particulary on the crux of pitch 2. awesome route.
Ollie B - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/09 with B.Brewer

For me a bit of a warm and dirty stuggle, like wrestling a big pig in a sauna, bonza lead from Percy though. Great start to the first and second pitches and a cracking finish, which made up for the mud shute in the middle.
mikehenesy - 2nd O/S - Aug/09 with Percy

gdb4060 - AltLd - 23/Jun/09 with Will

1st pitch only, tried to lead it but backed off due to poor protection for the first move. The block I had to lay back off and put the cam behind has a crack all the way around it and sounds hollow. Mike managed to pull through anyway and move the cam higher asap.
Ceridwen - 2nd β - 31/May/09 with Uber Mike

Dave Thompson - Lead O/S - 03/May/09 with Peter Roberts

what's the grade ?
namod - Lead - May/09 with phc

Led both pitches, hard going.
gripped01 - Lead O/S - May/09 with Jim Jarvis

2nd pitch only
simon kimber - Lead rpt - 11/Apr/09 with Hannah Hunt

Hanski - 2nd - 11/Apr/09 with Simon Kimber

Hidden - Lead dnf - 21/Feb/09

fatfingerz - 2009

The route is really atmospheric, but also a bit esoteric in places, with a few patches of loose rock and muddy/vegitated bits. I think it gets 3 stars for atmosphere though. The first pitch would be tough for anyone who isn't that good at jamming! The second pitch is better quality but awkward at the crux.
al99 - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/08 with Martina Zandonella

Very hard first pitch due to jamming problem! Crux in the second too but very atmospheric
martinazando - 2nd - 19/Oct/08 with Al Benson

Dunx - AltLd - 12/Oct/08 with Adam

amazing! first proper E1. very pollished
Adam Humphreys - AltLd RP - 12/Oct/08 with Dunx

First pitch v strenuous, second good fun, lead third. Lovely views..
Ewan Richards - 2nd - 10/Oct/08 with Dave6

After an ignominious retreat from kangeroo wall. There is a bees nest near the crux of P2 of this at the mo.
Bristoldave - Lead rpt - 10/Oct/08 with ewan

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch.
Tim W - AltLd RP - 21/Sep/08 with Oli Warren

leerybunny - AltLd O/S - 21/Sep/08 with Tim Wilkinson

My favourite bit was the ten metres of wet vertical mud.
Shauna - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/08 with Steve

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/08

Found the overhang on the second pitch "interesting" - judicious use of knees!
Mark Kemball - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/08 with Stacey Ward

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/08

Led first pitch. Thought the crux on the second was harder.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/08 with Will

Lead P1 and P2. Start is hard, dirty limestone jamming. Avoided by using small crimps
Sam W - Lead - 03/Jul/08 with Ali Williams

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 19/Jun/08 with Roger

MikeLell - 2nd dog - 19/Jun/08 with Ian Bryant

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jun/08

Only did first pitch due to lack of light and energy. Quite strenuous.
localboy - 2nd dog - 27/May/08 with Simon C, Simon F

dirty, polished, loose, 3 stars ?
Chubbard - AltLd O/S - 24/May/08 with C Godfrey

Led pitch 1 & 3 (my 2nd E1!). Adrian led pitch 2. Had a rest in 2 places under the 2nd overhang (too knackered to do it in one go!), but led cleanly apart from the rests. Crux of pitch 2 (which Adrian led, with 1 fall) felt desperate! An absolute classic climb.
Chris Sansum - AltLd dog - 18/May/08 with Adrian Lowe

Gets E1 in the new wye valley guide. Led 1st and 3rd pitches. The very start is brutal jamming on polished foot holds. Took gary's rack and couldn't find a blooding thing! Will take big cams next time.
hash - AltLd dog - 05/Apr/08 with Gary Lewis

Justin T - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Oct/07

Climbed the jamming crack after the crux in v.poor style. Like to go back and lead the second pitch. Proficient jamming needed for the first though
Dr Caterpillar - 2nd dog - 03/Oct/07 with Wayne

Hidden - Oct/07

Lead first pitch, Alex the second one. Run out of quick draws! Hot and sunny at the belay
pelvoux - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/07 with Alex

Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/07 with Timmy Elson

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/07 with Jon Hauser

First pitch tough up to the overhang - good bridging practice! Overhang actually a lot easier than it looks. Perfect gear, if you can stop to place it! Going past the overhang on the second pitch also quite tough. Unfortunately the route is a bit vegitated.
Misha - Lead dog - 29/Apr/07

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Feb/07

feilx - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/07 with Tom H

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 28/Jan/07

Hidden - 2007

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 11/Sep/06

Circus - Lead β - 09/Sep/06 with Jack Milton

Strenuous, fell off after the first overhang, then pulled up on the thread.
JackMountains - 2nd dog - 09/Sep/06 with Adam Haward

Striking line, pretty sustained, good gear throughout.
Stefan Kruger - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/06 with Paul Wood

Had quite a big fall, backed off, horrendously polished start, will come back to with more cams and when I'm back in shape.
timharrison - AltLd dnf - 16/Jul/06 with Trevor Macalonan

maybe_si - AltLd dog - 07/Jul/06 with jez

Jez - AltLd dog - 06/Jul/06 with Maybe_Si

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/06

Pitch 1 only. Second didn't follow so I abbed off the ledge.
bpmclimb - Lead dnf - 08/Jun/06 with Clare

Hidden - AltLd dog - 28/May/06

Bern - 2006

beardy mike - 2006 with Rob Scheicl

Spacetourist - 2nd O/S - 2006 with Ed Heslam

markfromstoke - 2006

Hidden - Lead rpt - Jul/05

Now E1? Very sustained crack/corner at the start. Found it very hard. Really enjoyed 2nd pitch
Bux - Lead O/S - Jul/05 with Rupert Bassadone

Stayed dry in the light rain. P1+P2 only - abbed off. 5/6/06 - topping out is now allowed and so the second ab station has now been chopped but this has left a right old mess and people with no desire to walk down will just use the trees instead.
Paz - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/05 with TS2

mikeyjbs - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/05 with lachie

Boxy - Lead β - Apr/05 with Mick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/05

first pitch only
joe_alexander - 2nd - 08/Dec/04 with Gavin Cytlaw

Lev - 2nd O/S - 14/Sep/04 with Spen

A good route, dusty lower down, we felt E1 would be a more accurate grade. We had to climb with only one half rope after forgetting the other one!
drysori - Lead O/S - Apr/04 with AdamW

a_radiohead_fan - 2004

Kev Little - Lead O/S - 2004

Urgles - AltLd O/S - Nov/03 with David Elder

Pitch 1 only
mikej - 2nd - 02/Sep/03 with Nick Salmon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/03

with Ryan
MikeC59 - Lead dog - 29/Jun/03

Fell off at the first overhang, recent rock fall has increased the difficulty.
woolwatcher - 15/May/03 with Rob Emery/Howard Rentyboy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2003

Lead first pitch
simonf - AltLd O/S - 2003 with Martin

Billg - Lead O/S - 2003

Defeated by ropedrag when trying to top out at the very end of the climb.
tomkhoward - Lead dnf - 2003 with John Spear

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/02

dan gibson - Solo O/S - Aug/02

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 30/Jul/02

simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 2002 with Mr E. Guest

Billg - Lead O/S - 14/May/00 with Phil Thomas

philhilo - AltLd - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Roget - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/96 with jon

Justin Tracey - AltLd - 1996 with Stu Ingram

mikej - AltLd - 14/Apr/95 with Nick Salmon

NeilGriffiths - 1995

Before it fell down.
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 1994 with Mark

Hidden - Lead - 1994

Not sustained at all! Mostly VS but with three very hard cruxes; the start, the top of P1 and the big roof. Needed a point of aid on all three!
alan moore - 1994

mikej - AltLd - 17/Aug/93 with Nick Salmon

Hidden - Lead - 08/Nov/92

mikej - AltLd - 04/Aug/92 with Nick Salmon

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Jul/91

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/90

ferret newman - 2nd dog - Aug/90 with Cotswolds Reading crew 1991-1992

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/90

mikej - 2nd - 07/Jun/90 with Bill Turner

A Wednesday after work
Jelly Mould Surfer - Lead β - 23/May/90

ChrisJD - Lead - 29/Mar/90

Hidden - AltLd - 1990

Marti999 - AltLd - 1990

Led first and third pitches
Pete_Frost - AltLd O/S - 1990 with James Winspear

Hidden - Lead - 03/Mar/89

Did it when 'men were men' and well protected 5b's were HVS not E1!
surfbish - Lead O/S - 1989

johnyspuitnik - Lead rpt - 1989

babymoac - AltLd - 03/Sep/88 with MTW

nigehughes - AltLd - Jun/88 with Ian Rolland

ChrisJD - AltLd - 06/Mar/88

tapley - AltLd - 04/Jul/87 with John Sumner

Guy - Lead O/S - 1987

What a great route
DDDD - Lead O/S - 1987

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 1987 with Frank Farrell

jcw - AltLd - 1986

DDDD - AltLd - 05/Oct/85 with Chris Brown

Hairy Welshman - AltLd O/S - Aug/85 with Ross Robinson

Richard Weller - AltLd - 11/May/85 with james eldridge

neilh - AltLd - Jun/84 with dave croker

sadams - AltLd - 05/Nov/83 with Steve Newman

pitch 2 polished but worth 3*
leland stamper - AltLd O/S - 25/Aug/83 with pete crutchley

nbotting - Lead O/S - 1981

RichardMc - 2nd - 1980 with Dave Langmead

Chris Terrey - AltLd - Oct/79 with Pete Hevezi

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/79

Sandbag VS in those days ! Felt chuffed when it went up to HVS !
rogerskews - AltLd - 1975 with Keith Jenkins

Nigel Bond - Lead - 21/Apr/74 with Alan

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Total votes cast 274
hard E20 of 90
E20 of 90
easy E24 of 90
hard E136 of 90
E136 of 90
easy E16 of 90
hard HVS8 of 90
HVS0 of 90
easy HVS0 of 90
hard 5c0 of 93
5c0 of 93
easy 5c3 of 93
hard 5b17 of 93
5b67 of 93
easy 5b3 of 93
hard 5a2 of 93
5a1 of 93
easy 5a0 of 93
3 Stars65 of 91
2 Stars17 of 91
1 Star8 of 91
0 Stars1 of 91
Bag of .....0 of 91
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP