Hidden 01/Nov 2nd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep AltLd O/S
shoulders 06/Sep AltLd O/S

P2. Lovely weather and day. 2*?

Hidden 06/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Aug 2nd
Hidden 15/Aug AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug Lead O/S
pdrums777 ?/Aug 2nd O/S

polished start and full body tension using fist jams at start. Trev did 2 pitchs in one push. abseiled off 2nd pitch (time)

with Gareth (trev)
luke glaister 28/Jul AltLd O/S

Brilliant route. Kc P1 me P2 the start is the harder work. Not very technical. Loved the bit before the first belay. And pitch 2 is the crux. 5b. And great climbing and gear all the way. Did it with head torches on to add to the fun. Topped out at 11o'clock. 3***s from me.

casey johns 28/Jul AltLd dog
jsmcfarland 22/Jul Lead O/S

Led both pitches. First pitch is horrifically pumpy but with no one individual hard move. Generally well protected. Good footwork is needed on the starting overhang/groove/crack to avoid pumping out, but otherwise it's fairly straight forward. Pitch two has the hardest move of the route in my opinion trying to get over the biggest roof. The route overall is harder than half a dozen E2's I have done at Wintours/Shorn cliff/Symonds Yat, no idea how it only gets E1. Regardless, by far and away the best E1 I have ever done. Kind of a south wales version of The Plum at Tremadog

with Sally
Hidden 22/Jul 2nd
Hidden 08/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Jun 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Jun Lead O/S
steve-grigg 10/Jun Lead O/S

What a route! Got lucky with our timing as two other pairs went to do the route on the same day, however we got there minutes before them. First 15 meters was hard and strenuous. The second pitch crux was fine once committed!

thomasmai 10/Jun 2nd β
Tom Brierley Gore 06/Jun Lead O/S

Nice long route, I found the the 2nd pitch felt more interesting. Lead pitch 2+3 together without drag issues.

AngelaC 03/Jun 2nd
thomasmai ?/Jun 2nd
GeneralFifi 25/May AltLd O/S

Greg lead the first pitch, I lead the second one. I didn't feel like the polish was limiting in any way, so don't let the guidebook deter you from climbing this great line! It was a little dirty towards the top though ...

gheadley27 25/May AltLd O/S
RichyBOYY 20/May Lead O/S

Took Ben on his First Multi!! I thought it was a sick route - didnt really have much big gear which made it interesting! Classic!

with Ben M
Benzo 20/May 2nd O/S
with Ric
Graeme Hammond 17/May Lead O/S

led all pitches, first intimidating crack seemed fairly straightforward jamming. The roof on the 2nd pitch was the crux for me. Great adventure.

with Becky E
Hidden 01/May AltLd dnf
Stuart William 12/Apr AltLd O/S

Me - P1&3, Martin P2 All pitches felt hard for their given grade. Plenty of gear throughout. First section felt very pumpy. Fantastic.

with Martin
harry_lewis 09/Apr AltLd
with Jed
jedster1111 09/Apr AltLd

Lead 2nd Pitch

grp 08/Apr Lead
James S 08/Apr AltLd O/S

pitch 1 me, pitch 2 geoff.

with geoff
felixizzy 05/Apr AltLd O/S

I lead to the terrace and mike finished it off. Don't think this is anywhere near a three star route due to the completely average middle section. The first part went better than expected, didn't use a single hand jam either. Mike had fun on the pitch 2 crux.

with Mike
jon_gill1 21/Mar AltLd rpt

Finally put this one to bed after having to lower off some years back when Chris who hadnt been back climbing long couldnt get past the overhang. Probably a good job as i found the crux on pitch 2 very hard turning the roof! Chris p1,p3 Me p2

with chris Lyness
leigh 21/Mar Lead β

Second and easy third pitch only after traversing in from Der Fuhrer. Going round roof commiting. Interesting using someone else's rack but the information that came with it invaluable :-)

with Gav
brices 15/Mar AltLd O/S

lead 1st and 3rd pitch, great commitment from Olly on the second pitch.

with Olly
ollie_e 15/Mar AltLd RP

Hands and feet numb and cramping whilst following first pitch, took a tumble on second pitch when my foot slipped off a smear due to the bird shit caked holds encountered shortly before, and hit a ledge. Finished it up and did a big of vertical gardening to reach the belay. 3rd pitch not really worth mentioning.

druss 12/Mar 2nd dog

Really struggled again on P1. Just not used to hand-jamming and trusting feet on polish. Felt very "thuggy" but good route to practice that style of climbing. Failed to lead P2 as couldn't work out the crux sequence, then sent partner up and he did it a completely different way - so much easier!

with argentinian machine
Sam Watson 31/Jan AltLd O/S

Not really worth all the adulation. First part of P1 was fun, "distressingly polished" is apt for the move getting into the corner. Rest of the pitch fairly average. P2 fun and enjoyable apart from the torrent of dirt that comes down from the top when seconding it.

ian bryant ??/2015 Lead
mike.moss 05/Oct/14 AltLd dog
Kirill 05/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Tremendous route! So sustained! I led P1. Mike - P2. P2 is definitely harder. We didn't bother with the P3, abbed off.

Hidden 24/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Legs 24/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

I lead the second pitch at HVS. Great move up and around the overhang.

with Macca
LJC 12/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

P1+2, Ben took the last pitch

with Anna, Little Ben
BDC 12/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with luca
tskelhon ?/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

soooooooo polished at the base!

clmacdonald ?/Sep/14 AltLd
mop449 31/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
with Dom Joyce, Phillip Wright
Katsmiff 24/Aug/14 2nd RP

No idea how I made it up the first pitch. Took way more strength than I had. Couldn't seem to get a good hand jam in the first section. Slipped on the ridiculously polished foothold. Made it the second time, luckily as my partner would have had to come and got his gear. 2nd and 3rd pitches were much better for me, even with pumped out arms from the 1st. Watch out for loose rocks on the 2nd and the dead branch on 3rd. Must remember next time I say I will follow my mate up whatever he fancies, to be more specific I.e. 'I'll follow you up anything that is technical, requiring very little strength.'

Martin Bagshaw 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Well I thought it was fun!

ollie1 23/Aug/14 Lead dog
Jack.H.92 16/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Cheese Monkey 13/Aug/14 AltLd RP

1st attempt at p1 I climbed like a moron, missed the semi rest and just generally did it wrong, resulting in a large lob onto the chockstone ending up near the ground. Managed fine 2nd time around. Top of p1 is awesome. p2 good fun. But overall while it is a great route its not 3* for me

with Peter
pheotleyr 13/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. All good, but no more than 2*.

with Ben
druss 09/Aug/14 Lead dnf

Should've not given into temptation and waited till fresh. Tired from previous two climbs and polish didn't help with relaxing whilst progressing up the crack.

sara n 03/Aug/14 AltLd

Fabulous fabulous climb...first 10 meters was tough - tiny footholds that were polished.

with Paul Wolf
simon kimber 27/Jul/14 Solo
skippington 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S


andrzej kierzek 29/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Lead P1 clean onsight. My second could not climb the P1 and I had to ab. My most serious pitch of rock trad climbing to date.

with Tara
danmullett 29/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14/Jun/14 2nd dog
LucasHarazin 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
JM 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Stevo
Andy Smallwood 21/May/14 AltLd O/S
CA1289 21/May/14 2nd
jack1996 21/May/14 Lead O/S

second pitch only as linked from kangaroo wall by accident

Connoor 21/May/14 -
Scotsken 18/May/14 Lead O/S

What a beauty! Two great pitches, the first is a bit of a thrutchfest for the first ten meters...

with Sven Heaps
will_benfold 17/May/14 Lead rpt

Slipped off the polished holds just after getting into the crack at about 5m. Pulled ropes and started again, fine from then on.

Pintsize 17/May/14 2nd
pearson9596 17/May/14 Lead rpt
simon kimber 16/May/14 Lead rpt

Climbed with a random old boy I met at the crag. Had no gear, so I used his rack - which included a 1967 MOAC (protects the crux on the second pitch perfectly) Peck Crackers, a shanty selection of hexes (on original 80's cord) and no draws. Thankfully he had a cam that fitted under the first overhang. All good fun, and makes me realise how much easier we have it these days!

Hidden 13/Apr/14 2nd O/S
monsteratt 13/Apr/14 Lead O/S

An impressive line until you get up close where it is dirty, loose and polished. Found second pitch to be better quality. Not sure it is worth all the accolades.

with Dan Fairbank
Matt.c.Warner 27/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with Troy
jcw ??/2014 -
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
masa-alpin 14/Sep/13 AltLd rpt

Simon lead P1 and 2, and I, P3.

with Simon P
craigaj.ace 10/Sep/13 2nd

Only did P1, not enough time for the rest. Very messy 2nd though!

with James
Hidden 01/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Dunx 31/Aug/13 AltLd rpt
with Tom Slader
TimKnight 26/Aug/13 Lead O/S

He put up a good fight

with Dave Marshall
masa-alpin 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

At last! I lead P1 and P2, Dave did P3. Adele backed off at the initial flaked groove. I found the roof of the P2 was the crux, but Dave apparently climbed it differently and found it to be not too bad. Fairly dirty, dusty, loose in places and very polished, but the moves were honest and good, the line was very strong. My verdict was a good route, whereas Dave didn't like it.

with Dave W-J, Adele L
LJC 10/Aug/13 Lead

Loose block - backed off.

with Tom
Tom Livingstone 09/Aug/13 AltLd O/S


Dan Lane 09/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

P2. Jammed my way up p1 so it didn't feel too hard. P2 is delightful upto a stiff pull then some jungle-bashing to the top. Abseiled off the tat on the thread belay (which ideally needs replacing with 11mm rope).

AndyF 08/Aug/13 Lead dog

Finally psyched myself up to lead this after seconding back in June.. Made a meal of the start... Used the in-situ gear to aid... Jamming technique needs some work! Pitch 2 was clean - but not pretty! Pitch 3 was a pleasurable climb out! Just happy to lead the whole thing and not fall off! Aim to climb it clean next time (year).

with Gregor
Echna 08/Aug/13 2nd dog

Awesome stuff. Grabbed the in situ sling on the first pitch. Need to work on my jamming.. I think I would have fallen off the roof crux of the 2nd pitch if it wasn't for a little balance assistance from the rope :D

with Andy
tonevert 22/Jul/13 Lead dog
with paul
Paul Eckton 20/Jul/13 2nd
with Tony Johnson
Hooo 07/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Blazing hot day and a 3.5 hour epic. Led P1&3. Got past the crux without much trouble, moved onto the slab and got lost for a bit. Found the groove again and got to 2m from the belay, then just didn't have the strength left for the final polished move. After a long rest and 3 falls, I decided I just couldn't make it and aided the last move. It's only about 4c, I was just thrashed. We both spent a long time resting on the ledge and then Chris led P2. I think that overhang is harder than anything on P1, and much bolder.

Chris Sieradzki 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Led P2. I think it's little bit hard E1. Definitely not good introduction to the grade. P1 strenuous on the bottom groove than steady and one tricky move just before ledge. P2 is very easy except one move by the overhang which in my opinion is the crux of the whole route. Much harder than 5a. 5b without the doubt. At the top of P2 before grassy bit when you look down you can see how long route is. Nice feeling.

with Hooo
wilkinscl 05/Jul/13 2nd

the first 30' are very hard

alastairbegley 01/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead P2, both pitches were great, good jamming on P1 with thin footholds followed by some great technical climbing. P2 was easier but the overhang felt hard for 5a

Nick Russell 01/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Great positions, worth it just to sit for a while at the belay ledge! Shame about the loose vegetated parts in the middle of p1 and the top of p2. I led p1 and found it a bit of a battle, but not unfair for E1. (If I'd taken more big gear and was a bit better practiced at jamming it would be fine.)

cem 29/Jun/13 AltLd RP

Oh dear! Led p1, just about. Not at all awake or warmed up & climbing like a complete spanner. Slipped below the initial overhang & lobbed onto the in situ tat. Got lowered off, pulled the ropes through & did it on the second attempt. And yet, despite it all, I would grade the whole route HVS 5a

Hidden 09/Jun/13 AltLd
Pete Rigby 09/Jun/13 AltLd
with Jim Tan
AndyF 05/Jun/13 2nd O/S

Pretty Epic. Mixed climbing, nothing pretty or elegant about it, 1 big pull up all the way up! Start of first pitch is great, nice jamming crack, traverse right fhen atraight up. 2nd pitch has a pretty epic roof which is easier than it looks, tops out on a sketchy grassy bank to a ledge. Watch out for the wrotten log! 3rd pitch really short with nice easy climbing up a flake to the finish. Aim to lead it one day - but not quit ready yet!

with Mike
mallardhealhook 04/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Simon Allcock 19/May/13 AltLd O/S
with Jake, Wilki
adam 24 ?/May/13 AltLd
Hidden 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
alexjz 27/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Jon setup the belay stance after P1 quite a bit lower than usual so I lead the second half of P1 and P2. Great climbing, felt really good.

harryjenner 24/Apr/13 AltLd
tedj234 24/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Harry
Julesthe1st 21/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Quarryboy 20/Apr/13 Lead dnf

Failed miserably, climbed up to near the top of the initial grove, my excuse being I got really flustered on the dusty jams, and suddenly boiling with my fleece on was unable to sort my feet out and then just got burnt out and had to give up, went up afterwards to strip the gear. Next time will not cock up so badly and confident we will get up it.

ianto ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
cymjt ??/2013 -
Hidden 11/Nov/12 AltLd
pearson9596 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
ian d f 27/Oct/12 AltLd

First and last pitch

tcn_2002 27/Oct/12 AltLd
TimCul 27/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
with thomas codrington
burto 14/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
with tom powell, hertha
Mr Powly 14/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Ian B, Hertha, Rozzy
therat 07/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/12 -
harry_lewis ?/Oct/12 AltLd dog
with Jed
jedster1111 ?/Oct/12 AltLd dog
thomasadixon 15/Sep/12 AltLd rpt

Led 2nd pitch this time, first is definitely harder. Both good but shame about the bird poo on the second.

with Becca
Tala M 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Lead second pitch, tough moves getting round the overhang but well protected. First pitch initially good but chossy for second half, second pitch covered in bird poo initially then good after.

BeccaSnowden 15/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1. Brilliant climbing.

with Tom
therat 08/Sep/12 AltLd
pelvoux 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Lead the second pitch after a clean lead of the first pitch from James on his first attempt

with James H
Pete Rigby 11/Aug/12 Lead dnf
with Sean Murphy
rd20 28/Jul/12 2nd dog

Came off seconding P1 and found crux roof at P2 too much so Gareth lead it - not my best climb

GarethHall 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Polished and overrated.

Hidden 17/Jul/12 TR
Hidden 15/Jul/12 AltLd dnf
grp 19/May/12 AltLd O/S
jon_ridley 19/May/12 AltLd O/S

lead p2. tricky around the roof

Hidden 13/May/12 Lead
Hidden 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
JamesBrowning 25/Mar/12 2nd dog
with Toby
Hidden 08/Jan/12 Lead O/S
saintlade ??/2012 -
timtimpeggy ??/2012 -
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Goose4 16/Sep/11 Lead O/S

AWESOME!!!! Insane corner!

with Chris Ince
manwithacam 10/Sep/11 Lead

great climb, good adventure, because of the line, strong and long up main face of wintours leap. 2 long pitches that just keep on coming. Downpour at top of first pitch so sat it out for 20 mmins and then finhished it off. Reminded me of Moonraker. Memorable!

with mike burnett
Hidden 10/Sep/11 AltLd dog
Estelles 22/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Nice climb from beginning to the end.

JamesColeman 19/Aug/11 Lead dog

Led all 3 pitches. Rested on gear at crux of 1st 2 pitches.

with Andy
tom.e ?/Aug/11 -
Didymus 28/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Led p1 & p3; found the start brutal (hard pumpy 5b) and the dirt, polish and veg detracted on p1. Second pitch was the best climbing with more rest options possible on the overhang crux moves.

with Nick
Hidden 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
mattshort 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Dave89 02/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome Managed to milk plenty of rests on the crack section so didn't feel too bad, but overall really good climb!

harrythegunz ?/Jul/11 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 14/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 (about VS 5a/5b?). This could be the best limestone route I've done.

Hidden 14/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Tim M 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Great positions, but it is dusty, polished, and somewhat loose. Slightly hangover probably didnt help!

with Emma
climbergg 14/Jun/11 2nd
Paul Bowen 21/May/11 Lead rpt
Chris Sansum 21/May/11 AltLd rpt

Chakrit P1 & 3, Chris P2

chakrit 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Chris
Hidden 15/May/11 AltLd
Mike Kiss 08/May/11 Lead O/S

Led both pitches (thanks Andy!). Crux of both pitches felt equally hard, brilliant climbing, sustained, first 'proper' E1 and loved it!

with Old man Andy
Derek Ryden 01/May/11 AltLd O/S
with Andy Forbes
davidgent 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Lead P2

with Joe Prinold
Hidden 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 06/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
nvalentine760 06/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Lead p2 pitch, Fraser lead P1

jon_gill1 20/Mar/11 Lead dnf

climbed the first pitch but my second was too pumped and so forced to ab off!2 new nuts and malions up for grabs if you want them!

with chris Lyness
ian d f 13/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Lead middle pitch

with Emmanuel
stvredmond 08/Mar/11 AltLd

One word.... EPIC!! both pitches felt 5b, weldone to james for getting his head together and leading the 2nd pitch. Brilliant climb, a right adventure. Led P1

j miller 04/Mar/11 Lead O/S

the crux for me was most definitely not the start, its moving above the roof in the second pitch, literally one move wonder unless you have a really long reach.

with filipe dacamara
_m.cox_ 15/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Tim Sparrow ??/2011 AltLd

Done it 3 times, all before the bottom fell out!

with Geoff Thomas, Ian Owen
Hidden ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
M_W_Court 11/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
suffolknick 10/Oct/10 AltLd dog

fell twice on the first corner - what a b*tch!

with clams
clams ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S

friend 3s for P1, which is a real pig

with NB
Stone Muppet 22/Sep/10 Lead dog

Wow. Well now I know the name 'King Kong' evokes not only the wild apelike strength and stamina required to do the moves, but also the jungle-like environment in which they are carried out... not to mention the generally epic nature of the experience. I've never seen quite such a mixture of choss and polish - though if that doesn't put you off I'd definitely recommend the route! Definitely an adventure route, though the cruxes are well protected. I vote E2 for the starting groove. I know many would disagree and I can understand the 'hard E1' perspective but I found it harder than any E2 I have done in the Wye valley, so maybe if you think that you should downgrade everything else. Or maybe I just did it wrong..?

with Paz
brew_guru 21/Sep/10 2nd β

led 2nd pitch to roof and had a few go's but talked myself out of it, gutted really because i pissed it after gav led it!!! awesome is what it says on the tin!!***

with super gav
Hidden 12/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
benkelsey 31/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

lead Pitch 2 (5a). fantastic moves around the arete - fairly exposed on P1 and great clean climbing up the crack on P2... not worth three stars though, too much loose/broken parts and vegetation.

Hidden 23/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden 20/Jul/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
mick1jones 10/Jul/10 AltLd dnf

Seconded first pitch ok. Led second pitch to roof and fell off ripping gear and injuring shoulder. Need to work on feet and gear placements

with Chris Dale, John Martin
Hidden 04/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Dale ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

brill route, the first pitch is pumpy if you can't jam and I'm not very good put the odd jam in but did not pull on 1 layed back bridged it all. A lot easier I guess if ur a good jammer. Mick lead second pitch struggled on the overhang, he fell off and his gear ripped had a nasty fall hurt his shoulder bad, had to lower him off get well soon mick. I lead second pitch move over overhang a bit polished, mick missed a bommer nut and a small foothold hard 5a johny lead last pitch. Then off to bristol hospital

with mick, johny
Glyn 23/Jun/10 Lead O/S

P1: Horrible polished and probably E1. Middle bit is a bit vegetated and loose. Top of p1 is quality. p2: cool moves on big holds.

with Bez
gknyus 23/Jun/10 2nd β

pretty fucking good, tough start, a bit vegetated in the middle but second pitch was good quality rock.

bpmclimb 19/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Clare
jhawton 18/Jun/10 2nd

Too weak to lead!!! Will go do it when I'm strong!!!

with danJBA
danJBA 18/Jun/10 Lead O/S

2 pitches

muttley_109 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
gonggashan ?/Jun/10 AltLd

Sunny happy days tree roots

with Dan Perrott
stuart34 28/May/10 2nd
Ed Babs 24/May/10 AltLd O/S


with Harry
dan gibson 20/May/10 Lead rpt
Si dH 09/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch. Don't think it should have been upgraded to E1 in recent guide. Feel the start is fair at a toughish HVS 5a - you get to solid locker jams for your hands before you have to take your feet off the massive holds. Certainly would not be graded harder than HVS in the Peak. Second pitch also has a couple of tough moves. Still vote for hard HVS overall though. Excellent route. There is loads of gear everywhere - I didnt use any of the old pegs that are in place.

with Ray, Andy Morris
AJM 09/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led the second pitch. Thought both pitches about hard HVS, and very good.

with Ray Harris, Simon de Haas
Alexandre Buisse 24/Apr/10 AltLd

Too polished to be really fun. Led P1, with a rest at the start, and very nearly popped off the top of the pitch as I realized I was fully committed, with terrible footholds and no gear since a rusted old piton 3m below. Felt a bit hard for E1, mostly because of the polish on the cruxes.

with Max
natalietanzer 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
with nacnud
3 Names 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
nacnud 23/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
Alan100 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S

First pitch only. It has a very polished key foothold but otherwise nice steady jamming and bridging. One of those pitches that would feel a LOT harder without cams tho..

James_86 17/Apr/10 2nd rpt

First Pitch Only. Ab-d of the ledge.

with Jacob
Luke Marsden ?/Apr/10 2nd dog
with Keith Marsden
toasted 14/Mar/10 Lead dog

one fall at crux of second pitch

with maxpie
Chris Sansum 13/Mar/10 2nd dnf

P1 only (Richard changed his mind about P2-3).

with Richard Lade
koalapie ?/Mar/10 2nd β
Luke Marsden ??/2010 2nd dog
with Keith Marsden
jimmatthews ??/2010 AltLd
with simon kimber, James Davies
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
chris wyatt 06/Sep/09 Lead O/S

tried to find the line of stairway to heaven but got lost. Did this instead. Most pleasant especially the mud and dust

with Tiger Tom
Matt Bennett 16/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Dan_Carroll 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S

led P1, 2nd P2. polished but still worthwhile.

with Eric Herring
Ollie B 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S

quality climbing on a quality day. did in two pitches, had to dig a few holds out of the dirt, particulary on the crux of pitch 2. awesome route.

with B.Brewer
mikehenesy ?/Aug/09 2nd O/S

For me a bit of a warm and dirty stuggle, like wrestling a big pig in a sauna, bonza lead from Percy though. Great start to the first and second pitches and a cracking finish, which made up for the mud shute in the middle.

with Percy
gdb4060 23/Jun/09 AltLd
with Will
Ceridwen 31/May/09 2nd β

1st pitch only, tried to lead it but backed off due to poor protection for the first move. The block I had to lay back off and put the cam behind has a crack all the way around it and sounds hollow. Mike managed to pull through anyway and move the cam higher asap.

with Uber Mike
Dave Thompson 03/May/09 Lead O/S
with Peter Roberts
namod ?/May/09 Lead

what's the grade ?

with phc
gripped01 ?/May/09 Lead O/S

Led both pitches, hard going.

with Jim Jarvis
simon kimber 11/Apr/09 Lead rpt

2nd pitch only

Hanski 11/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 21/Feb/09 Lead dnf
fatfingerz ??/2009 -
al99 19/Oct/08 Lead O/S

The route is really atmospheric, but also a bit esoteric in places, with a few patches of loose rock and muddy/vegitated bits. I think it gets 3 stars for atmosphere though. The first pitch would be tough for anyone who isn't that good at jamming! The second pitch is better quality but awkward at the crux.

martinazando 19/Oct/08 2nd

Very hard first pitch due to jamming problem! Crux in the second too but very atmospheric

Dunx 12/Oct/08 AltLd
with Adam
Adam Humphreys 12/Oct/08 AltLd RP

amazing! first proper E1. very pollished

with Dunx
Ewan Richards 10/Oct/08 2nd

First pitch v strenuous, second good fun, lead third. Lovely views..

with Dave6
Bristoldave 10/Oct/08 Lead rpt

After an ignominious retreat from kangeroo wall. There is a bees nest near the crux of P2 of this at the mo.

with ewan
Tim W 21/Sep/08 AltLd RP

Lead 1st and 3rd pitch.

leerybunny 21/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Shauna 17/Sep/08 2nd O/S

My favourite bit was the ten metres of wet vertical mud.

with Steve
Hidden 31/Aug/08 AltLd
Mark Kemball 27/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Found the overhang on the second pitch "interesting" - judicious use of knees!

with Stacey Ward
Hidden 26/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
thomasadixon 26/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch. Thought the crux on the second was harder.

with Will
Sam W 03/Jul/08 Lead

Lead P1 and P2. Start is hard, dirty limestone jamming. Avoided by using small crimps

with Ali Williams
bpmclimb 19/Jun/08 2nd rpt
with Roger
MikeLell 19/Jun/08 2nd dog
Hidden 01/Jun/08 AltLd
localboy 27/May/08 2nd dog

Only did first pitch due to lack of light and energy. Quite strenuous.

Chubbard 24/May/08 AltLd O/S

dirty, polished, loose, 3 stars ?

with C Godfrey
Chris Sansum 18/May/08 AltLd dog

Led pitch 1 & 3 (my 2nd E1!). Adrian led pitch 2. Had a rest in 2 places under the 2nd overhang (too knackered to do it in one go!), but led cleanly apart from the rests. Crux of pitch 2 (which Adrian led, with 1 fall) felt desperate! An absolute classic climb.

with Adrian Lowe
hash 05/Apr/08 AltLd dog

Gets E1 in the new wye valley guide. Led 1st and 3rd pitches. The very start is brutal jamming on polished foot holds. Took gary's rack and couldn't find a blooding thing! Will take big cams next time.

with Gary Lewis
Justin T 20/Oct/07 Lead O/S


with Wifey
Hidden 20/Oct/07 2nd dog
Dr Caterpillar 03/Oct/07 2nd dog

Climbed the jamming crack after the crux in v.poor style. Like to go back and lead the second pitch. Proficient jamming needed for the first though

with Wayne
Hidden ?/Oct/07 -
pelvoux 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S

Lead first pitch, Alex the second one. Run out of quick draws! Hot and sunny at the belay

with Alex
Tim Steward 01/Aug/07 Lead O/S
with Timmy Elson
Bristoldave 06/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Jon Hauser
Misha 29/Apr/07 Lead dog

First pitch tough up to the overhang - good bridging practice! Overhang actually a lot easier than it looks. Perfect gear, if you can stop to place it! Going past the overhang on the second pitch also quite tough. Unfortunately the route is a bit vegitated.

Hidden 04/Feb/07 AltLd
feilx 03/Feb/07 AltLd O/S
with Tom H
Hidden 28/Jan/07 AltLd rpt
Hidden ??/2007 -
dan gibson 11/Sep/06 Lead rpt
Circus 09/Sep/06 Lead β
JackMountains 09/Sep/06 2nd dog

Strenuous, fell off after the first overhang, then pulled up on the thread.

Stefan Kruger 12/Aug/06 AltLd O/S

Striking line, pretty sustained, good gear throughout.

with Paul Wood
timharrison 16/Jul/06 AltLd dnf

Had quite a big fall, backed off, horrendously polished start, will come back to with more cams and when I'm back in shape.

maybe_si 07/Jul/06 AltLd dog
with jez
Jez 06/Jul/06 AltLd dog
Hidden 01/Jul/06 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 08/Jun/06 Lead dnf

Pitch 1 only. Second didn't follow so I abbed off the ledge.

with Clare
Hidden 28/May/06 AltLd dog
Bern ??/2006 -
beardy mike ??/2006 -
with Rob Scheicl
Spacetourist ??/2006 2nd O/S
with Ed Heslam
markfromstoke ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Jul/05 Lead rpt
Bux ?/Jul/05 Lead O/S

Now E1? Very sustained crack/corner at the start. Found it very hard. Really enjoyed 2nd pitch

with Rupert Bassadone
Paz 03/Jun/05 Lead O/S

Stayed dry in the light rain. P1+P2 only - abbed off. 5/6/06 - topping out is now allowed and so the second ab station has now been chopped but this has left a right old mess and people with no desire to walk down will just use the trees instead.

with TS2
mikeyjbs 10/Apr/05 AltLd O/S
with lachie
Boxy ?/Apr/05 Lead β
with Mick
Hidden ?/Mar/05 AltLd O/S
joe_alexander 08/Dec/04 2nd

first pitch only

with Gavin Cytlaw
Lev 14/Sep/04 2nd O/S
with Spen
drysori ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S

A good route, dusty lower down, we felt E1 would be a more accurate grade. We had to climb with only one half rope after forgetting the other one!

with AdamW
a_radiohead_fan ??/2004 -
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead O/S
Urgles ?/Nov/03 AltLd O/S
with David Elder
mikej 02/Sep/03 2nd

Pitch 1 only

with Nick Salmon
Hidden 03/Jul/03 AltLd O/S
MikeC59 29/Jun/03 Lead dog

with Ryan

woolwatcher 15/May/03 -

Fell off at the first overhang, recent rock fall has increased the difficulty.

with Rob Emery/Howard Rentyboy
Hidden ??/2003 AltLd O/S
simonf ??/2003 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch

with Martin
Billg ??/2003 Lead O/S
tomkhoward ??/2003 Lead dnf

Defeated by ropedrag when trying to top out at the very end of the climb.

with John Spear
pezzerrr 20/Aug/02 Lead O/S
dan gibson ?/Aug/02 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/02 AltLd dnf
simon kimber ??/2002 AltLd O/S
with Mr E. Guest
migs493 10/Jun/01 AltLd O/S
Billg 14/May/00 Lead O/S
with Phil Thomas
philhilo ??/2000 AltLd
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Roget 06/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with jon
Justin Tracey ??/1996 AltLd
with Stu Ingram
mikej 14/Apr/95 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
NeilGriffiths ??/1995 -
AndySL ??/1994 AltLd O/S

Before it fell down.

with Mark
Hidden ??/1994 Lead
alan moore ??/1994 -

Not sustained at all! Mostly VS but with three very hard cruxes; the start, the top of P1 and the big roof. Needed a point of aid on all three!

mikej 17/Aug/93 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
Hidden 08/Nov/92 Lead
mikej 04/Aug/92 AltLd
with Nick Salmon
Hidden 01/Jul/91 AltLd
Hidden 22/Aug/90 Lead O/S
ferret newman ?/Aug/90 2nd dog
with Cotswolds Reading crew 1991-1992
Phil Ingle 28/Jul/90 AltLd O/S
with Ellis Ash
mikej 07/Jun/90 2nd
with Bill Turner
Jelly Mould Surfer 23/May/90 Lead β

A Wednesday after work

Hidden 29/Mar/90 Lead
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd
Marti999 ??/1990 AltLd
Pete_Frost ??/1990 AltLd O/S

Led first and third pitches

with James Winspear
Hidden 03/Mar/89 Lead
surfbish ??/1989 Lead O/S

Did it when 'men were men' and well protected 5b's were HVS not E1!

johnyspuitnik ??/1989 Lead rpt
babymoac 03/Sep/88 AltLd
with MTW
nigehughes ?/Jun/88 AltLd
with Ian Rolland
Hidden 06/Mar/88 AltLd
tapley 04/Jul/87 AltLd
with John Sumner
Guy ??/1987 Lead O/S
DDDD ??/1987 Lead O/S

What a great route

Nigel Coe ??/1987 AltLd
with Frank Farrell
jcw ??/1986 AltLd
DDDD 05/Oct/85 AltLd
with Chris Brown
Hairy Welshman ?/Aug/85 AltLd O/S
with Ross Robinson
Richard Weller 11/May/85 AltLd
with james eldridge
neilh ?/Jun/84 AltLd
with dave croker
sadams 05/Nov/83 AltLd
with Steve Newman
leland stamper 25/Aug/83 AltLd O/S

pitch 2 polished but worth 3*

with pete crutchley
Rob Davies 02/Jul/83 Lead dnf

Half-hearted attempt at P1?

with Angus McLean
nbotting ??/1981 Lead O/S
RichardMc ??/1980 2nd
with Dave Langmead
Chris Terrey ?/Oct/79 AltLd
with Pete Hevezi
Hidden 12/Jul/79 AltLd O/S
rogerskews ??/1975 AltLd

Sandbag VS in those days ! Felt chuffed when it went up to HVS !

with Keith Jenkins
Nigel Bond 21/Apr/74 Lead
with Alan
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 90
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 93
Votes cast 91
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set