UKC

15m.

Rockfax Description
Fine and pumpy. Start at the diagonal crack as for Chepito.
Move up easily, step right and then attack the spaced horizontal breaks on good holds to less steep but more technical ground up the groove and wall above. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the steepest part of the cliff above the beach.
Haul through the bulges and make a difficult move (and clip) into a shallow niche. Another difficult move out of the niche gains improving holds leading to the lower-off.
Has now been fully equipped (without permission). Originally climbed at E5 6a with an 8mm bolt and two pegs which have been removed or flattened.
Consensus grade is F7a.

M J Crocker, M Ward 10/Dec/1988.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Becky's ticklist , Brean Down Sports Climbs , Mineboyz Mega Projectz - Level: Crystal , West Country Climbs: Sport Routes Grades 5 to 7a+ , South Side Sport , Recommended 7's , The road to Statement of Youth , 3 Star sport climbs below 7b within a 25 mile radius of Bristol , Bristol area road to 7b , Bristol sport , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West (Sport) , 7As with stars near Bristol , 2023 , Unfinished business

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 18 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First time I did this second go, today 5th. Different beta needed. Think I am regressing. Still fun though.
Show beta
βeta: First time I did this second go, today 5th. Different beta needed. Think I am regressing. Still fun though.
Tall Oak 6 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Cool route. Nothing mega. IMHO not a 7a but perhaps the \'lank\' makes it easier.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Cool route. Nothing mega. IMHO not a 7a but perhaps the 'lank' makes it easier.
Petar Samkov 4 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Somehow managed to fall after the crux ...3 times , got it on the 4 th ...even only just !
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Somehow managed to fall after the crux ...3 times , got it on the 4 th ...even only just !

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 210
Votes cast 215
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Shakin' Like a Leaf

Grade: 7a ***
(Cheddar Gorge South)

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