About 4m right of Flake 4. Up to a ledge then straight up the groove above. Moving left at the crux is VS 4c.

Hidden 27/Sep Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Sep 2nd dog
ross83 16/Aug Lead O/S
ChrisH89 04/Aug 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug Lead
OMara81 15/Jul 2nd
Sylvian B 15/Jul Lead O/S

Went too far left!

HaddRoots 29/Jun Solo rpt
JosefGoeth 18/Jun Lead
Craig Holden 02/Jun Lead O/S
seanhendo123 20/May Lead O/S
with Lamb
Lamb 20/May 2nd O/S
MightyStew 27/Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr 2nd dog
Hidden 23/Apr Lead
calum404 15/Apr 2nd rpt
Hidden 06/Apr Lead O/S
crombie 06/Apr 2nd O/S
with Lee
Hidden 19/Mar 2nd
tronardcohen 19/Mar Lead
stevorobs3 07/Mar 2nd O/S
with Szymon
Dr Toph 11/Sep/14 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Sep/14 2nd O/S
tronardcohen 10/Aug/14 -
Manix 28/Jul/14 2nd
with Alan Verona
Hidden 15/Jul/14 Lead rpt
Ewanski 01/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
ClareM.123 24/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Rested on gear before going for the crux move, nut wasn't as 'bomber' as first thought and popped resulting in my first trad fall, onto a well placed cam. Calum went on to lead and I followed up on Second, Glad I didn't get any higher on lead!

calum404 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Clean onsight apart from the gear Clare lowered off on. Scared myself shitless on this, definitely the most scared I've been while climbing. Looking back on it I'm glad I managed it, feet were a bit sketchy though.

Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd
davesa 22/Jun/14 Lead
steve7734 21/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with James Jackson
tom.dodo 31/May/14 Lead O/S

Committing move after the first slab, little gear and tricky, polished footholds. Bit of a runout, slightly scary but felt so good after it.

with Luca
redbass 31/May/14 2nd O/S
with Tommy
Sarah Greenwood 24/May/14 2nd O/S
Fiona Reid 21/May/14 2nd
with Barbara, Mike
Mike-W-99 21/May/14 Lead
with Fiona
brad_tait 14/May/14 2nd
ClimbingGlen 12/May/14 Lead dnf

Backed off the route. Struggled to find a decent hold halfway up!

Hidden ??/2014 Solo
Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S
TwoChimes 31/Aug/13 Lead
with Davy B
darunniff ?/Aug/13 Lead
Chris(cface!) 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Andy Arnott
jamesgr87 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Davy B 05/Jul/13 Lead
hedgehog_john 01/Jul/13 Lead
Hidden 01/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 19/Jun/13 Lead rpt
martinh13 19/Jun/13 2nd
with Chris
martinh13 01/Jun/13 2nd
with Andy
Siderunner 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Surprisingly sustained difficulties for the grade

lou_rankine ?/Jun/13 2nd
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead O/S
mhamiltonj 26/May/13 Lead O/S
with James
James90 26/May/13 2nd
with heather w, Marnoch
calumhd 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Amazing weather. Difficult crux in middle of route, run out above cam with sketchy moves on slippy holds. Via MacNiven not-so-direct.

with Zach
Antd 05/May/13 Lead

extremely polished - makes for unpleasant foot placements. well protected though.

with Liza Wolfson
davesa 27/Apr/13 Lead
Hidden 27/Apr/13 2nd
James90 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S
HaddRoots 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
eckymof 27/Mar/13 Lead
Mark Bull 01/Oct/12 2nd
with Mike
Hjbvet 12/Sep/12 2nd
with David Runnif
Hidden 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
horsefeathers 08/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Niall, Louise
ARV77 04/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Jenny Ventham
glenngordon 31/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with mike walker
Hidden 31/Jul/12 2nd
Hidden 25/Jul/12 Lead rpt
abbeywall 25/Jul/12 2nd
daWalt 21/Jul/12 Lead O/S

hmmm, dosn't quite feel as well protected as VS5a would suggest.

with Lisa
adamc 27/May/12 Lead O/S

First VS! WooHoo!

Andy Hewison 27/May/12 Lead dog

I thought the start was the crux move, discovered that was higher up. Fell about 6m, 2 bits of gear ripped out but number 1 nut kept me from decking it. Biggest bruise ever on my ar*e and back. Got up it as a second after that!

indigostarlight 26/May/12 Lead dnf

Fell off, hit ledge and spent the rest of the afternoon in a&e. Prior to that, a nice route :)

Laura Hamlet 25/May/12 Lead dnf
Laura Hamlet 25/May/12 2nd rpt
Tim Hamlet 25/May/12 2nd
mattdown 24/May/12 2nd
Baggie 24/May/12 Lead O/S

First VS

Gabe Oliver 24/May/12 Lead O/S

Really enjoyable climb on a gorgeous summer evening. A must do at Traprain

andybroadway 01/May/12 Lead O/S
with Jonathan McMillan
Hidden ?/May/12 2nd O/S
Mike-W-99 24/Apr/12 2nd
with Fiona
Fiona Reid 24/Apr/12 Lead rpt
with Mike
Antd 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Al Macleod
Macleod 03/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with anthony
adscott87 ?/Mar/12 TR rpt
adie84 ??/2012 -
Paulshipman ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Sean Cochrane
sophiecb 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Lovely route and not so polished for Traprain. Lots of pro. What a fun evening: a wee climb for me and a flight for Seb from the top of the crag before the light faded:)

with Seb
sebrider 01/Sep/11 2nd

Lead dnf, second onsight, hard VS, easy 5a, polish...whatever...the nice southerly and paragliding after was much more exciting ;)

Nic DW 01/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with Robyn
Peter Metcalfe 20/Aug/11 Lead

Good, but a bit of a sandbag IMO.

sergio46 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S

A bit wet, made it interesting for foot hold at crux!

with Tim Lukins
Hidden 05/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Harry Holmes 30/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Morgan Trigg
rallymania 12/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with Sarah
Hidden 04/Jun/11 Lead
treejamie 19/May/11 Lead O/S
oliverk 10/May/11 Lead
with Malcolm, Sarah Moorhouse
Mike-W-99 20/Apr/11 2nd
with Fiona
Fiona Reid 20/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Mike
fall-line 23/Mar/11 Lead O/S
with James Fathers, Alistair Black
james.fathers 23/Mar/11 2nd
with Alistair Black, Donald Slater
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Mar/11 Lead
radioshed 02/Mar/11 Lead O/S

very nice route, good gear where you would like it

with emma t
Hidden ??/2011 Lead β
lisafer ??/2011 -
Hidden 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Pat-H 16/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Ewanski 02/Sep/10 2nd β
with Nick B
Hidden 31/Aug/10 2nd
Mike-W-99 19/Aug/10 2nd
with mark, Fiona
Fiona Reid 19/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Mike, Mark
Mark Bull 19/Aug/10 2nd
with MikeW, Fiona
mastiffmat 10/Aug/10 Lead
Mike-W-99 29/Jul/10 2nd
with Fiona
Fiona Reid 29/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with Mike
Hidden 25/Jul/10 TR
Gavin L 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Mairi
Cacyn 20/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Tom Bain
JonnyCrimper 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with pete
Hidden 07/Jul/10 2nd O/S
sneaks 07/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with janey
Fiona Reid 16/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Mike, Ron
Mike-W-99 16/Jun/10 2nd
with Fiona
krasavenko 03/Jun/10 2nd O/S
with Barney
barney_edin 02/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Liyen
JdotP 02/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Kerstin Brzezek
hexcentric 25/May/10 Lead rpt
with jimmy savill
DundeeDave 23/May/10 2nd dog
abbeywall 19/May/10 Lead
Fiona Reid 18/May/10 2nd

Mark went up the variation, I went direct.

with Mike, Mark
Mike-W-99 18/May/10 2nd
with mark, Fiona
rnotman67 16/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/May/10 TR
Pete23 ?/May/10 Lead
with Neil Robb
Stuart Macfarlane 24/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with Jeanie
climberuk 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Big shaky at the crux but enjoyed the whole route.

with Niall
niallk 17/Apr/10 2nd
J Brown 17/Mar/10 Lead O/S
kbrown 17/Mar/10 2nd O/S
with J Brown
nich0las ??/2010 Lead O/S
with Ewan P
Hidden ??/2010 2nd
jess 20/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with martin
Hidden 03/Oct/09 Lead
Snap 30/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Matt
Hidden 27/Jul/09 2nd
Stephen18 27/Jul/09 Lead O/S
LittleLuka 19/Jul/09 2nd
with Niggle
Hidden 16/Jul/09 2nd
guyscott 09/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Angie
Fiona Reid 02/Jun/09 Lead rpt

Had some route finding issues, veered briefly onto Wobble, then too far left instead. Some tenuous stuff to get back on route - lessons learned don't listen to folks shouting instructions from below and look at the guidebook rather than attempting to remember where the route goes!

with Mike
Mike-W-99 02/Jun/09 2nd
with Fiona
hubereini 20/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with andy
andymoin 20/Apr/09 2nd rpt
Hidden ?/Apr/09 2nd O/S
timcussins 21/Mar/09 2nd O/S
with Greg
gregoldridge 21/Mar/09 Lead O/S

found it hard

iceicebaby 19/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Done in the dark :) Great wee route, but a bit polished at the bottom and at the crux - actually more of an issue for feet than hands in this case.

Paul L ??/2009 Lead O/S
daWalt 30/Dec/08 2nd O/S
Ian Jones ?/Dec/08 Lead O/S
with Walter Robison
JdotP 05/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Dan Missen, Craig Walling
wileejoe 27/Sep/08 Lead O/S
with Steven
Stuart Macfarlane 14/Sep/08 Lead rpt
with Harry, Jeanie
Hay ?/Jul/08 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing great gear and the top slab is lovely.

with Scott and Lewis
benbers 10/May/08 2nd O/S
with Andrew Latham
Boistelle 10/May/08 Lead O/S
with Ben Kellitt
sneaks 22/Apr/08 -
with Gibby, Brian kim
Hidden 28/Mar/08 Lead
RobScotland 14/Oct/07 Lead O/S

Enjoyable route - small cam useful for quick protection (10mm wide crack) just before crux.

with Dougie
Lawrie Brand 09/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Dave Barrow
oliverk 19/Jun/07 2nd
lazybones 02/Jun/07 Lead O/S
with Helen Sanders
Fiona Reid 25/May/07 Lead O/S

A wee wobble about 10m up but held on. Close to my limit in places

with Mike
Mike-W-99 25/May/07 2nd
with Fiona
richardr ?/Apr/07 -
beegsyboy 10/Mar/07 2nd O/S
with Eccie
Neil Mackenzie 10/Mar/07 Lead
with Tim
abbeywall ??/2007 Lead
hedgehog77 12/Sep/06 Lead
Hidden 05/Aug/06 Lead O/S
bigbenb ?/Aug/06 -
Chris Plewa ?/Jul/06 -
with adam reid, simon gall
Sean Bell ?/May/06 Lead O/S
with col
andymoin 23/Apr/06 Lead O/S
with Jamy McFarlane
Stuart Macfarlane 23/Apr/06 Lead rpt
with Cabey
IanMcC 23/Apr/06 2nd
alan moore ??/2004 Solo
mav ?/Apr/03 -
samwelli 15/Mar/03 Lead dog
with Phil Wood
Old_Nick_S 27/Sep/02 Lead

Hard in the middle

with Robbie, Irene
Stuart Macfarlane 17/Aug/02 Lead O/S
with John G
220bpm ?/May/02 Lead O/S
snowboarder ?/May/02 2nd
with Mark
Hidden 28/Aug/01 Lead O/S
abbeywall ?/Aug/00 Lead
with K
Rob Davies ?/Sep/99 Lead
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
Scottish78 16/Feb/97 Lead O/S
with Keith Falkingham
Hidden 27/Jul/96 Lead O/S
BobbyMotherwell ?/Jun/96 Lead O/S
greenroom ??/1996 -
CMacD ??/1992 -
Iain Thow 09/Jun/91 Lead
with Tom Kearney
auldscotal ??/1986 Lead O/S
mark-abz 25/Aug/84 Lead
with Bill P
Bruce Kerr 04/Nov/78 Lead
with Sandy Moncur
neil3965 ??/1978 Solo
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Ian Jones
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 36
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set