Avon > Avon Gorge (Amphitheatre) >
 
Sweat Shop HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Botanist's Dilemma
 
Rocket Man >>
Peg on second pitch not in place.
R A Broomhead. 01/Oct/1985
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 10 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

Interesting one this. Jonny led P1 which is alledgely 4a, lovely rock but it's certainly at least 4b maybe 4c and protected by micro cams and micro wires. This gave me P2, (there is a peg in place but it doesn't look new?) The 1st move off the ledge is about 5b which may or may not allow you to clip the peg (I'm 5.6 and had to hold the tape on the QD and push the gate open on the peg) the next 2 moves then form the crux which was interesting and probably 5c (Jonny suggested 6a? he had to frig the moves) I backed up the peg with a micro wire immediately above and that is the only gear but thankfully the angle relents and so does the grade. HVS 5a????
SGD - AltLd O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Jonny WMC

Phil PBC - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/11 with henry castle

Not to be repeated! Finished on the arete which felt hard enough with hand holds breaking away and no pro!
Slick - Lead - 16/Jun/11 with Kevin Vans-Colina

Went for the second pitch, found the useless remains of the old peg which couldn't be used for protection at all, several holds have possibly snapped making it even more blank. Had a total epic getting off which involved abseiling off the rock fence and into a building site as it began to get dark. Unless the peg is replaced then I would say this route is considerably harder and more dangerous than VS or HVS. Wouldn't recommend to anyone
Quarryboy - AltLd dnf - 06/Mar/11 with Rob Stanfield

lead first pitch which was quite enjoyable,jack had a go at considerably harder second pitch and made correct decision to back off when he found a small piece of rusty meal that used to be the crucial peg. One hell of an escape down fencing to the left.
Stanners - AltLd - 06/Mar/11 with Jack Bradbrook

Hidden - Lead dnf - 10/Jan/09

Went right up the slab on 2nd pitch, placed skyhook, probably finishing as for The Weed - utter sandbag.
Paz - Lead O/S - Mar/04 with SN

Hidden - Lead - Mar/00

Unable to find the crucial peg on the top pitch we finished up the arÍte to the left.
jim_randell - 2nd O/S - 13/Apr/94 with MB

chris sm - AltLd dnf - 21/Nov/93 with Martin Sime

Voting
Total votes cast 3
hard E10 of 1
E10 of 1
easy E11 of 1
hard HVS0 of 1
HVS0 of 1
easy HVS0 of 1
hard VS0 of 1
VS0 of 1
easy VS0 of 1
hard 5b0 of 1
5b0 of 1
easy 5b1 of 1
hard 5a0 of 1
5a0 of 1
easy 5a0 of 1
hard 4c0 of 1
4c0 of 1
easy 4c0 of 1
3 Stars0 of 1
2 Stars0 of 1
1 Star0 of 1
0 Stars1 of 1
Bag of .....0 of 1
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.