A testing eliminate up the pillar between Schizoid and Speedfreak.From the top of the flake, step up on the left and balance up the flat pillar face to a good break. Pull over two tiny overhangs to reach a good "shakeout" jug on the left (on Schizoid). Now make a very fingery moves up to the right to reach good holds in a break. A long crimpy sequence up the rib above leads to a lower-off over a small bulge. Deviating into Speedfreak is definitely off-limits. Gaining footholds just left of the pillar (on Schitzoid?) allows a breather, and is probably ok at this grade.

Ticklists: Cheddar Sevens.


ClimberDateStyle
Bates 25/Jun Lead RP

Wicked route! Nothing used on speed freak and no rest on shizoid. Sustained moves the whole way with a great techy sequence on small sharp crimps on the upper face. 1st RP.

with Andy Brice
Nick Russell 23/Jun Lead RP

Second go. Well chalked holds and good conditions, felt very steady.

just one more 21/Jun Lead RP

Putting the draws in,had to fight at the top! Superb,varied route,one of my favourite Cheddar sport routes

with Patrick
patrickcd 21/Jun Lead dog
with Steve
Hidden 20/Jun Lead RP
just one more 08/Jun Lead dog
with Patrick
blaza1 23/Apr Lead O/S
with Sam Young, liam jones
afrosam 10/Oct/15 Lead RP
patrickcd 09/Oct/15 Lead dog
with Steve
just one more 09/Oct/15 Lead dog
with Patrick
Hidden 04/Oct/15 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Oct/15 Lead dog
pezzerrr 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
patrickcd 18/Sep/15 Lead dog

Sticking to the bolt line gives an excellent and very sustained pitch.

with Max
max_dickens 18/Sep/15 TR dog

Wicked Route!

with Patrick
patrickcd 10/Sep/15 Lead dog
with Max
just one more 04/Sep/15 Lead dog
with Patrick
LucasHarazin 23/Apr/15 Lead RP
just one more 23/Apr/15 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
thomas108 ??/2015 -
PeterDawson 31/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead RP
eddieclimb 26/Jun/13 Lead RP

1st RP, steady pumping all the way :)

with Tom Rogers
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead dog
Jon_Warner 26/Jun/13 Lead RP

A good route. Some right foot action on Speedfreak. Some might call it off limits but it felt natural to me... There are L/R ways and variations up the penultimate face.

with Jenni
Jon_Warner 24/Jun/13 Lead dog

Close.

with Jenni
Hidden 24/Jun/13 Lead dog
ericinbristol 25/May/12 Lead RP

Excellent route.

with Johnny S
Hidden 18/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/May/12 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead dog
Spacetourist 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Thought it was fantastically technical. Pleased with the onsight, lovely and sustained. Just my bag!! :D

with Ed Heslam
Tris.w 18/Mar/12 Lead RP

Felt easy when it went, and deserves some stars. Just a bit fall-offable (even when fresh) near the top.

with Tomar
Tomar 18/Mar/12 Lead RP

V good route. First 7b+ in a day.

with Tris
Hidden 09/Mar/12 Lead RP
brices 09/Mar/12 Lead β

cheers sash for the beta stoked on this one

with Sash, Tris
maddy.c 06/Mar/12 Lead O/S

First day at cheddar in 2012

Luke Dawson 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S

pumpy but easy moves and decent ish shakeouts

Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead RP
Wendy 22/May/11 Lead RP

3rd redpoint - should have had it second go but took a massive fall going for the massive jug at the end!

with Bungle
_m.cox_ 28/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Steve Winslow
Hidden 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead dog
Ricky Rocks 12/Feb/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Nov/10 Lead RP
Stefan Kruger 06/Nov/10 Lead RP

3rd rp. Nice route, if a bit eliminate.

Paul Robertson 08/Sep/10 Lead dog
with Mike Goldthorp
Richard Hall 25/Jun/10 Lead RP

Good untill half hight then the line gets a bit confusing. Not a great route overall. May have been a bit too far left in the middle.

with Anais
billb ?/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 07/May/10 Lead RP
eddy-on-the-rocks 05/May/10 Lead RP
with max
James Marshall ?/Apr/10 Lead RP
gazhbo ??/2010 Lead RP
Kev Little ??/2010 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 23/Oct/09 Lead dog

Used Ray's beta which provides for a good shakeout at half height. Made it to the penultimate bolt three times.

with Ray Mardon
Paul Robertson 02/Mar/09 Lead dog
Paul Robertson 25/Feb/09 Lead dog
Paul Robertson 17/Feb/09 Lead dog

Managed all the moves.

Hidden 10/Oct/08 Lead RP
guy xavier percival 03/Nov/06 Lead RP
with paul
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
max_dickens, Hidden, jamie_m, Hidden, SamStokes, Hidden, Hidden
Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set