Somerset > Cheddar Gorge South >
 
Manchmals* 7b+

Adjacent Climbs
<< Schizoid
 
Speedfreak >>
A testing eliminate up the pillar between Schizoid and Speedfreak.From the top of the flake, step up on the left and balance up the flat pillar face to a good break. Pull over two tiny overhangs to reach a good "shakeout" jug on the left (on Schizoid). Now make a very fingery moves up to the right to reach good holds in a break. A long crimpy sequence up the rib above leads to a lower-off over a small bulge. Deviating into Speedfreak is definitely off-limits. Gaining footholds just left of the pillar (on Schitzoid?) allows a breather, and is probably ok at this grade.

Ticklists: Cheddar Sevens.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 37 logbooks, and on 6 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead RP - 29/Jun/13

1st RP, steady pumping all the way :)
eddieclimb - Lead RP - 26/Jun/13 with Tom Rogers

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Jun/13

A good route. Some right foot action on Speedfreak. Some might call it off limits but it felt natural to me... There are L/R ways and variations up the penultimate face.
Jon_Warner - Lead RP - 26/Jun/13 with Jenni

Close.
Jon_Warner - Lead dog - 24/Jun/13 with Jenni

Hidden - Lead dog - 24/Jun/13

Excellent route.
ericinbristol - Lead RP - 25/May/12 with Johnny S

Hidden - Lead rpt - 18/May/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/May/12

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Mar/12

Thought it was fantastically technical. Pleased with the onsight, lovely and sustained. Just my bag!! :D
Spacetourist - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/12 with Ed Heslam

Felt easy when it went, and deserves some stars. Just a bit fall-offable (even when fresh) near the top.
Tris.w - Lead RP - 18/Mar/12 with Tomar

V good route. First 7b+ in a day.
Tomar - Lead RP - 18/Mar/12 with Tris

Hidden - Lead RP - 09/Mar/12

cheers sash for the beta stoked on this one
brices - Lead β - 09/Mar/12 with Sash, Tris

First day at cheddar in 2012
maddy.c - Lead O/S - 06/Mar/12

pumpy but easy moves and decent ish shakeouts
Luke Dawson - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/Jun/11

3rd redpoint - should have had it second go but took a massive fall going for the massive jug at the end!
Wendy - Lead RP - 22/May/11 with Bungle

_m.cox_ - Lead RP - 28/Apr/11 with Steve Winslow

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/11

Was meant to be on the 7a+.
TommityP - Lead dog - 02/Apr/11

Rick hard Rock - Lead rpt - 12/Feb/11

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Nov/10

3rd rp. Nice route, if a bit eliminate.
Stefan Kruger - Lead RP - 06/Nov/10 with Sarah Kruger

Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 08/Sep/10 with Mike Goldthorp

Good untill half hight then the line gets a bit confusing. Not a great route overall. May have been a bit too far left in the middle.
Richard Hall - Lead RP - 25/Jun/10 with Anais

billb - Lead - Jun/10 with Rich Smith

Hidden - Lead RP - 07/May/10

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead RP - 05/May/10 with max

James Marshall - Lead RP - Apr/10

Used Ray's beta which provides for a good shakeout at half height. Made it to the penultimate bolt three times.
Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 23/Oct/09 with Ray Mardon

Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 02/Mar/09 with Guy Percival

Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 25/Feb/09 with Guy Percival

Managed all the moves.
Paul Robertson - Lead dog - 17/Feb/09 with Guy Percival

Hidden - Lead RP - 10/Oct/08

guy xavier percival - Lead RP - 03/Nov/06 with paul

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
jamie_m, J1_TOV, Hidden, SamStokes, Hidden, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 35
hard 7c0 of 17
7c0 of 17
easy 7c1 of 17
hard 7b+4 of 17
7b+10 of 17
easy 7b+1 of 17
hard 7b1 of 17
7b0 of 17
easy 7b0 of 17
3 Stars3 of 18
2 Stars12 of 18
1 Star3 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

Lead37 of 37 (100.0%)

'Climbed'1 of 37 (2.7%)
clean O/S4 of 37 (10.8%)
clean β1 of 37 (2.7%)
clean rpt2 of 37 (5.4%)
clean RP19 of 37 (51.4%)
dogged10 of 37 (27.0%)