A testing eliminate up the pillar between Schizoid and Speedfreak.From the top of the flake, step up on the left and balance up the flat pillar face to a good break. Pull over two tiny overhangs to reach a good "shakeout" jug on the left (on Schizoid). Now make a very fingery moves up to the right to reach good holds in a break. A long crimpy sequence up the rib above leads to a lower-off over a small bulge. Deviating into Speedfreak is definitely off-limits. Gaining footholds just left of the pillar (on Schitzoid?) allows a breather, and is probably ok at this grade.

Ticklists: Cheddar Sevens.


ClimberDateStyle
blaza1 23/Apr Lead O/S
with Sam Young, liam jones
afrosam 10/Oct/15 Lead RP
patrickcd 09/Oct/15 Lead dog
with Steve
just one more 09/Oct/15 Lead dog
with Patrick
Hidden 04/Oct/15 Lead RP
Hidden 02/Oct/15 Lead dog
pezzerrr 27/Sep/15 Lead O/S
patrickcd 18/Sep/15 Lead dog

Attempting to go very direct, without rests on the left or feet on the right, produces an excellent and very sustained pitch. Can't do it though...

with Max
max_dickens 18/Sep/15 TR dog

Wicked Route!

with Patrick
patrickcd 11/Sep/15 Lead dog
with Steve
patrickcd 10/Sep/15 Lead dog
with Max
patrickcd 08/Sep/15 Lead dnf
with Steve
just one more 04/Sep/15 Lead dog
with Patrick
LucasHarazin 23/Apr/15 Lead RP
just one more 23/Apr/15 Lead dog
Hidden 12/Apr/15 Lead
Hidden 08/Apr/15 Lead O/S
thomas108 ??/2015 -
PeterDawson 31/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/13 Lead RP
eddieclimb 26/Jun/13 Lead RP

1st RP, steady pumping all the way :)

with Tom Rogers
Hidden 26/Jun/13 Lead dog
Jon_Warner 26/Jun/13 Lead RP

A good route. Some right foot action on Speedfreak. Some might call it off limits but it felt natural to me... There are L/R ways and variations up the penultimate face.

with Jenni
Jon_Warner 24/Jun/13 Lead dog

Close.

with Jenni
Hidden 24/Jun/13 Lead dog
ericinbristol 25/May/12 Lead RP

Excellent route.

with Johnny S
Hidden 18/May/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/May/12 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Mar/12 Lead dog
Spacetourist 19/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Thought it was fantastically technical. Pleased with the onsight, lovely and sustained. Just my bag!! :D

with Ed Heslam
Tris.w 18/Mar/12 Lead RP

Felt easy when it went, and deserves some stars. Just a bit fall-offable (even when fresh) near the top.

with Tomar
Tomar 18/Mar/12 Lead RP

V good route. First 7b+ in a day.

with Tris
Hidden 09/Mar/12 Lead RP
brices 09/Mar/12 Lead β

cheers sash for the beta stoked on this one

with Sash, Tris
maddy.c 06/Mar/12 Lead O/S

First day at cheddar in 2012

Luke Dawson 26/Nov/11 Lead O/S

pumpy but easy moves and decent ish shakeouts

Hidden 30/Jun/11 Lead RP
Wendy 22/May/11 Lead RP

3rd redpoint - should have had it second go but took a massive fall going for the massive jug at the end!

with Bungle
_m.cox_ 28/Apr/11 Lead RP
with Steve Winslow
Hidden 07/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/11 Lead dog
Ricky Rocks 12/Feb/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Nov/10 Lead RP
Stefan Kruger 06/Nov/10 Lead RP

3rd rp. Nice route, if a bit eliminate.

Paul Robertson 08/Sep/10 Lead dog
with Mike Goldthorp
Richard Hall 25/Jun/10 Lead RP

Good untill half hight then the line gets a bit confusing. Not a great route overall. May have been a bit too far left in the middle.

with Anais
billb ?/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/10 Lead
Hidden 07/May/10 Lead RP
eddy-on-the-rocks 05/May/10 Lead RP
with max
James Marshall ?/Apr/10 Lead RP
gazhbo ??/2010 Lead RP
Kev Little ??/2010 Lead RP
Paul Robertson 23/Oct/09 Lead dog

Used Ray's beta which provides for a good shakeout at half height. Made it to the penultimate bolt three times.

with Ray Mardon
Paul Robertson 02/Mar/09 Lead dog
Paul Robertson 25/Feb/09 Lead dog
Paul Robertson 17/Feb/09 Lead dog

Managed all the moves.

Hidden 10/Oct/08 Lead RP
guy xavier percival 03/Nov/06 Lead RP
with paul
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
max_dickens, Hidden, jamie_m, Hidden, Hidden, SamStokes, Hidden, Hidden
Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 21
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set