UKC

Restricted Access

Fly Wall and Woodcroft Quarry: the current owners have not given permission to climb on this section of crag. If you do climb on this part of the crag, please be careful not to damage any fences in the area.

GO Wall: topping out now allowed year round for all routes from Feline/Jackal leftwards. King Kong ab. bolts removed. No topping out any time for right hand end – ab. stations in place where required. A large rockfall has recently (Jan 2013) been reported at the righthand side of the Pedestal on Go Wall - care should be taken with any remaining loose rock that may still be in place in this area.

North Wall: following a change of ownership of the house above this section of crag, the previous arrangement to exit through it’s garden is not longer possible. Please do not top out on any North Wall routes - only abseil descent from below the top of the crag is allowed. For those who don't wan't to climb above the Great Ledge, an abseil descent can be made from one of the two bolted abseil stations above The Tap or Joe’s Route. Two further abseil stations have been established just below the top of North Wall (using rope slings and rings around trees) allowing the last pitch of the more popular routes to be climbed and an abseil descent to the Great Ledge be made. 

All rock north of the North Buttress and south of Fly Wall is privately owned and all climbing is prohibited.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 15 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens nesting on Wurlitzer. The restriction applies to all routes on Fly Wall between Flypast and Gendarmerie.

Peregrins nesting on North Wall. Avoid top pithes of left hand route (from the great ledge)

87m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Popular and varied climbing that improves with height gained. Start in the left-facing corner, below a block overhang at 10m.
1) 4b, 17m. Climb up to the block overhang and pull over its left side on good holds. Move up to a bolted belay just above the level of the Central Ledge.
2) 4a, 20m. Head up behind the belay to a corner/groove and follow it past an overhang and then up right to a tree belay.
3) 4c, 20m. Move left and head up to and past a break to a thin crack. Continue on good holds to a dark grey slab. Climb the slab past a horizontal finger ledge to a peg under a slight overlap and pull over this on a good hold to finish on the Great Ledge. © Rockfax

J. Willson, R. Hazell 03/Feb/1979.

Ticklists

Orange Spot Lower Wye , #RadTradGirl UK HS/VS climbs Easter 2017 , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Wintour's leap

Feedback

User Date Notes
PaulJepson 19 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Left an offset and quickdraw to backrope to the belay of p2 after an accident on Angel's Girdle (just left of tree belay). If anyone retrieves these we would be grateful for their return.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Left an offset and quickdraw to backrope to the belay of p2 after an accident on Angel's Girdle (just left of tree belay). If anyone retrieves these we would be grateful for their return.
Francis Hardy 29 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, though absolutely baking in the midday sun. Some really nice technical moves on the first pitch. Epic 50m+ abseil off the great ledge.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, though absolutely baking in the midday sun. Some really nice technical moves on the first pitch. Epic 50m+ abseil off the great ledge.
Cati 16 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: P3 says to go left. That can be a bit misleading and get you on a bold route with 3 pegs on a slab with little else. It's pretty straight up from the P2 belay tree, don't be lured by the pegs on the left.
βeta?
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βeta: P3 says to go left. That can be a bit misleading and get you on a bold route with 3 pegs on a slab with little else. It's pretty straight up from the P2 belay tree, don't be lured by the pegs on the left.
Runshell 26 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Tree at the top of P1 no longer appears to be there. There are 2 pegs nearby that can be used.
βeta?
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βeta: Tree at the top of P1 no longer appears to be there. There are 2 pegs nearby that can be used.
simonf 19 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: tree at the top of P1 looked pretty dead
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βeta: tree at the top of P1 looked pretty dead
Timmy3rdw 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: 30ish Kg Block blew out by the base of the tree belay at Pitch one, today. Tree now a bit suspect as a belay point. Still climbable at about the same grade though. Just be extra careful.
βeta?
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βeta: 30ish Kg Block blew out by the base of the tree belay at Pitch one, today. Tree now a bit suspect as a belay point. Still climbable at about the same grade though. Just be extra careful.
Martino90 26 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Be mindful of some small loose block on P3.
βeta?
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βeta: Be mindful of some small loose block on P3.
Uluru 8 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Just did pitch 1-3. Pitch 4 looked scrappy
βeta?
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βeta: Just did pitch 1-3. Pitch 4 looked scrappy
Mbowell 20 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Double ab station 10m left along ledge at top of P3
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Double ab station 10m left along ledge at top of P3

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 110
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 103
Votes cast 106
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Whitt

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Symonds Yat)

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