Hell Bent for Lycra** 6c+
[Lycra time., 2 kb]13m. The classic Balmashanner line and a perfect introduction to the crag. Steep, pumpy and powerful. Hard for the grade and rarely flashed.

Climb from the large block by edges and pockets to a protruding block at two thirds height. A long move leads to positive edges, move left to the groove and dig deep for the final move. Deserves the stars and deserves more ascents.
David Douglas 1988

Ticklists: North East Stars.

Photo: Lycra time. © Fraser
View all 3 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 97 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

sheppy - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/15 with Simie, diane

sheppy - Lead rpt - 17/Jun/15 with Simie

RebekahD - Lead - Jun/15 with Tim

stuart.a.adams - Lead RP - 30/May/15 with Hamish

stuart34 - Lead O/S - 26/May/15 with Doug the thug, Mike Shorter

Dave Douglas - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/14 with Neil Shepherd

sheppy - Lead rpt - 21/Sep/14 with Dave Douglas

sheppy - Lead rpt - 10/Sep/14 with Iain MacD

Adam Lincoln - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/14 with Niall McNair

jonskippy - Lead rpt - 30/Aug/14 with Andrew Simpson

new lower off installed.
sheppy - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/14 with Iain MacD

Hidden - Lead - 19/Aug/14

dswansonlow - Lead dog - 17/Aug/14 with TC

Great training route, up putting in clips, touch chain then down unclipping. Great workout. Still have vivid memory of Stuart Cameron climbing this route totally foot free! Also Dave Douglas soloing it... Only for the crucial crux undercut to fly off in Neil Morrisons hands several weeks later!
sheppy - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/14 with iain n jules

Dvf
julesp - Lead rpt - 05/Aug/14 with iain and neil

Ri - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/14 with Dougie

sheppy - Lead rpt - 30/Jul/14 with Iain MacD

Hidden - 30/Jul/14

3rd go...
D.Russell - Lead RP - 29/Jul/14 with Ri

Ri - Lead rpt - 29/Jul/14 with Dougie

Ri - Lead rpt - 25/Jul/14 with Tom, mike

Felt like a 7a to me... Was end of session tho. Great route
adamfisher - Lead O/S - 18/Jul/14 with Johnathan watt

2nd RP tonight.
colinmckay8 - Lead RP - 11/Jun/14 with stuart.a.adams, Hamish

x4
Hamfunk - Lead rpt - 11/Jun/14 with Colin McK, Stuart A

colinmckay8 - Lead dog - 21/Jul/13 with Hamish, Joe

Lower off tidied and some gardening above.
Hamfunk - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/13 with Colin McK, Joe

Sloppy Joe - Lead rpt - 20/Jul/13 with Colin, Hamish

sheppy - Lead rpt - 17/Jul/13 with Iain MacD

Sloppy Joe - Lead RP - 13/Jul/13 with Hamish

Hamfunk - Lead rpt - 13/Jul/13 with Joe

Really enjoyable as i hadn't been on it for years.
Hamfunk - Lead rpt - 06/Jul/13 with Stuart A, Andy

Not done in years. Feels the same grade as the neighbouring 7as?
Alastair R - Lead - 01/Jul/13 with Kieran K

Needed two goes. Tough for 6c+ I thought.
gforce - Lead - 08/Apr/12 with Tim

sheppy - Lead rpt - 08/Jun/11 with Iain MacD

sheppy - Lead rpt - 01/Jun/11 with iain n jules

Watching Hamfunk get it was all the inspiration I needed! 3rd RP. Good route!
TonyThePrawn - Lead RP - 31/May/11 with Stuart Corns, Hamish

4th go! Quality Pumpy Climbing!
Hamfunk - Lead RP - 31/May/11 with Stuart C, Andy

Still feels pumpy
andyinglis - Lead rpt - 28/May/11 with Marcus Bean

Stuart S - Lead RP - 27/May/11 with Phil Jack

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Sep/10

mshorter - Lead - 02/Sep/10 with ross

Hidden - Lead dnf - 30/Aug/10

Hidden - TR RP - 28/Aug/10

Xenos - Lead rpt - 28/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/Aug/10

Xenos - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/10

Xenos - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/10

Xenos - Lead rpt - 27/Aug/10

Clean 2nd try. Pumped for the last move, almost didn't make it!
bnewman - Lead rpt - 25/Aug/10 with Tim, whistler, Ash

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead dnf - 22/Aug/10

Xenos - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/10

Hidden - Lead rpt - 22/Aug/10

I've got the lead in 2 sections - woohoo!
MelH - Lead dog - 13/Aug/10 with A

jonskippy - Lead - 09/Aug/10 with Kris

RAH - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/10 with Kris

Hidden - TR dog - 06/Aug/10

Hidden - TR dnf - 04/Aug/10

MelH - Lead dog - 28/Jul/10 with sheppy, julesp

sheppy - Lead rpt - 28/Jul/10 with mel, julesp

yeah man - finally on the lead!!! :D
MelH - Lead dog - 25/Jul/10 with julesp, A

sheppy - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/10 with simon, iain n jules

Chalkd83 - 2nd dog - 22/Jul/10 with Guns, Ash

getting there.... :D
MelH - TR dog - 18/Jul/10 with julesp

Fraser - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10 with assorted dudes

kevg - Lead β - 17/Jul/10

Hidden - Lead RP - 17/Jul/10

julesp - Lead RP - 17/Jul/10 with Iain

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10

felt 7a
mark mcgowan01 - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Mikey Jeans

I WILL get this route this year! Last worked in 2008 - today was like going on it for the first time.
MelH - TR dog - 26/Jun/10 with A

Hidden - TR rpt - 20/Jun/10

7a
sheppy - Lead rpt - 19/May/10 with Iain MacD

andyinglis - Lead RP - 18/May/10 with Amanda

BrettB - Lead RP - May/10

done to warm up got very pumped
ashknot - Lead dog - 12/Aug/09 with Tim Rankin

surprisingly pumpy!
whistler - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/09

Dogged with clip stick, did the moves, hard going
JLS - Lead dog - 02/Aug/09 with Pete R.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/09

Hidden - Lead RP - 24/Jul/08

2nd attempt. Humid day
Dangerous Dave - Lead rpt - 03/Jul/08 with Tim Rankin

about 3rd go
dave o - Lead RP - 29/Jun/08 with Amanda Lyons

RP
looter - Lead - 27/Jun/08 with jonny

tom russell - Lead RP - 12/Jun/08 with Milky Dawg

had about 5 sessions in 2008 - maybe I'll get it in 2009 ;-D
MelH - TR dog - 2008 with A

akhughes - Lead rpt - May/07

Kris Devlin - 2007

Henners - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/03 with Alan Cassidy

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/98

Cassidy - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/97

Stuart S - Lead RP - 30/Jul/96 with John Wilson

Jon Read - Lead O/S - Jun/96 with Neil Morrison

sheppy - Lead rpt - 02/Jul/91 with Dave Douglas

What was I thinking?
Dave Douglas - Solo rpt - 20/Sep/89

10 times with out a rest!
Dave Douglas - TR rpt - 17/Sep/88 with Neil Shepherd

1st ascent, with a couple of old 8mm bolts and a crucial 1 rock at the crux!
Dave Douglas - Lead β - 27/Jun/88 with Neil Shepherd

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AGT

Voting
Total votes cast 37
hard 7a0 of 21
7a4 of 21
easy 7a11 of 21
hard 6c+2 of 21
6c+3 of 21
easy 6c+1 of 21
hard 6c0 of 21
6c0 of 21
easy 6c0 of 21
3 Stars2 of 16
2 Stars12 of 16
1 Star2 of 16
0 Stars0 of 16
Bag of .....0 of 16
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP
Dogged
DNF