13m. The classic Balmashanner line and a perfect introduction to the crag. Steep, pumpy and powerful. Hard for the grade and rarely flashed.

Climb from the large block by edges and pockets to a protruding block at two thirds height. A long move leads to positive edges, move left to the groove and dig deep for the final move. Deserves the stars and deserves more ascents.

David Douglas 1988

Ticklists: North East Stars.

ErikAndersen 20/Sep Lead β
with Duncan
Kieran Duncan 14/Sep Lead RP

Hardest grade yet, psyched. 5 RP attempts on first session then got it first time on the next. Really great climbing too!

sheppy 11/Aug Lead rpt

Climbed and reversed almost to the ledge then back up, a great workout!

with Iain and other folk
Hidden ?/Aug Lead rpt
sheppy 29/Jul Lead rpt
with Iain MacD
sheppy 21/Jul Lead rpt

More seepage than Saturday.

with Simie
sheppy 19/Jul Lead rpt

Tricky today as some holds wet.

with Tim Rankin, Simie
sheppy 27/Jun Lead rpt
with Simie, diane
sheppy 17/Jun Lead rpt
with Simie
RebekahD ?/Jun Lead
with Tim
stuart.a.adams 30/May Lead RP
with Hamish
stuart34 26/May Lead O/S
with Doug the thug, Mike Shorter
Dave Douglas 21/Sep/14 Lead rpt
sheppy 21/Sep/14 Lead rpt
sheppy 10/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Iain MacD
Adam Lincoln 31/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Niall McNair
jonskippy 30/Aug/14 Lead rpt
sheppy 27/Aug/14 Lead rpt

new lower off installed.

with Iain MacD
Hidden 19/Aug/14 Lead
dswansonlow 17/Aug/14 Lead dog
with TC
sheppy 05/Aug/14 Lead rpt

Great training route, up putting in clips, touch chain then down unclipping. Great workout. Still have vivid memory of Stuart Cameron climbing this route totally foot free! Also Dave Douglas soloing it... Only for the crucial crux undercut to fly off in Neil Morrisons hands several weeks later!

with iain n jules
julesp 05/Aug/14 Lead rpt


with iain and neil
Ri 30/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Dougie
sheppy 30/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Iain MacD
Hidden 30/Jul/14 -
D.Russell 29/Jul/14 Lead RP

3rd go...

with Ri
Ri 29/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Dougie
Ri 25/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Tom, mike
adamfisher 18/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Felt like a 7a to me... Was end of session tho. Great route

with Johnathan watt
colinmckay8 11/Jun/14 Lead RP

2nd RP tonight.

Hamfunk 11/Jun/14 Lead rpt


colinmckay8 21/Jul/13 Lead dog
with Hamish, Joe
Hamfunk 20/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Lower off tidied and some gardening above.

Sloppy Joe 20/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Colin, Hamish
sheppy 17/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Iain MacD
Sloppy Joe 13/Jul/13 Lead RP
with Hamish
Hamfunk 13/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Joe
Hamfunk 06/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Really enjoyable as i hadn't been on it for years.

Alastair R 01/Jul/13 Lead

Not done in years. Feels the same grade as the neighbouring 7as?

with Kieran K
gforce 08/Apr/12 Lead

Needed two goes. Tough for 6c+ I thought.

with Tim
sheppy 08/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Iain MacD
sheppy 01/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with iain n jules
TonyThePrawn 31/May/11 Lead RP

Watching Hamfunk get it was all the inspiration I needed! 3rd RP. Good route!

Hamfunk 31/May/11 Lead RP

4th go! Quality Pumpy Climbing!

andyinglis 28/May/11 Lead rpt

Still feels pumpy

Stuart S 27/May/11 Lead RP
with Phil Jack
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 03/Sep/10 Lead dog
mshorter 02/Sep/10 Lead
with ross
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Hidden 28/Aug/10 TR RP
Xenos 28/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 27/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Xenos 27/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Xenos 27/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Xenos 27/Aug/10 Lead rpt
bnewman 25/Aug/10 Lead rpt

Clean 2nd try. Pumped for the last move, almost didn't make it!

with Tim, whistler, Ash
Hidden 24/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Xenos 22/Aug/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Aug/10 Lead rpt
MelH 13/Aug/10 Lead dog

I've got the lead in 2 sections - woohoo!

with A
jonskippy 09/Aug/10 Lead
with Kris
RAH 07/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with Kris
Hidden 06/Aug/10 TR dog
Hidden 04/Aug/10 TR dnf
MelH 28/Jul/10 Lead dog
sheppy 28/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with mel, julesp
MelH 25/Jul/10 Lead dog

yeah man - finally on the lead!!! :D

with julesp, A
sheppy 24/Jul/10 Lead rpt
with simon, iain n jules
Chalkd83 22/Jul/10 2nd dog
with Guns, Ash
MelH 18/Jul/10 TR dog

getting there.... :D

with julesp
Fraser 17/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with assorted dudes
kevg 17/Jul/10 Lead β
Hidden 17/Jul/10 Lead RP
julesp 17/Jul/10 Lead RP
with Iain
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
mark mcgowan01 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S

felt 7a

with Mikey Jeans
MelH 26/Jun/10 TR dog

I WILL get this route this year! Last worked in 2008 - today was like going on it for the first time.

with A
Hidden 20/Jun/10 TR rpt
sheppy 19/May/10 Lead rpt


with Iain MacD
andyinglis 18/May/10 Lead RP
with Amanda
BrettB ?/May/10 Lead RP
ashknot 12/Aug/09 Lead dog

done to warm up got very pumped

with Tim Rankin
whistler 12/Aug/09 Lead O/S

surprisingly pumpy!

JLS 02/Aug/09 Lead dog

Dogged with clip stick, did the moves, hard going

with Pete R.
Hidden 19/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/08 Lead RP
Dangerous Dave 03/Jul/08 Lead rpt

2nd attempt. Humid day

with Tim Rankin
dave o 29/Jun/08 Lead RP

about 3rd go

with Amanda Lyons
looter 27/Jun/08 Lead


with jonny
tom russell 12/Jun/08 Lead RP
with Milky Dawg
MelH ??/2008 TR dog

had about 5 sessions in 2008 - maybe I'll get it in 2009 ;-D

with A
akhughes ?/May/07 Lead rpt
Kris Devlin ??/2007 -
Henners 01/Jul/03 Lead O/S
with Alan Cassidy
Hidden ?/Jul/98 Lead O/S
Cassidy 14/Sep/97 Lead O/S
Stuart S 30/Jul/96 Lead RP
with John Wilson
Jon Read ?/Jun/96 Lead O/S
sheppy 02/Jul/91 Lead rpt
Dave Douglas 02/Jul/91 2nd
Dave Douglas 20/Sep/89 Solo rpt

What was I thinking?

Dave Douglas 17/Sep/88 TR rpt

10 times with out a rest!

Dave Douglas 27/Jun/88 Lead β

1st ascent, with a couple of old 8mm bolts and a crucial 1 rock at the crux!

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Kieran Duncan, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, AGT
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 17
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set