162m, 5 pitches.
An excellent independent line which ascends the buttress right of the summer route Cysgodian Creep, roughly midway between Bedrock Gully and Colin's Gully.
1.) 3, 30m, up ice steps to the terrace. Belay below ice groove.
2.) 4, 18m, climb the ice groove and traverse right at its top to a poor belay under the steep wall.
3.) 5, 24m, climb the steep buttress on ice smears (may not form in most winters) to break onto steep turf. Follow to poor belay below shattered wall.
4.) 3, 45m, step right into the gully line and follow to easier mixed ground.
5.) 2, 45m, easy ground to the top.
1.) 3, 30m, up ice steps to the terrace. Belay below ice groove.
2.) 4, 18m, climb the ice groove and traverse right at its top to a poor belay under the steep wall.
3.) 5, 24m, climb the steep buttress on ice smears (may not form in most winters) to break onto steep turf. Follow to poor belay below shattered wall.
4.) 3, 45m, step right into the gully line and follow to easier mixed ground.
5.) 2, 45m, easy ground to the top.
Nick Biven, Wil Rickards 08/Jan/1996.
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Route of Interest
Devil's Pipes
Grade: V 6 ***
(Devils Kitchen (Cwm Idwal) - (Clogwyn y Geifr))