UKC

Restricted Access

July 2018 - Major rockfall affects Lost World/Mordor areas. In recent years there have been significant and massive rockfalls (hundreds if not thousands of tons of rock)  in this area, and in early July another significant rockfall occured here, that would have wiped out anyone in this area at the time. There is further significant and unpredictable rockfall likley here and it would be prudent to avoid this area. 

The Upper Dinorwig quarries are mainly owned by First Hydro. Access for climbing or any access away from the designated footpaths is not permitted by the landowners, due to liability concerns. However it's rare for climbers to be asked to leave and in general it appears that if climbers keep a low profile, avoid damaging fences, do not interfere with any of the power station buildings or apparatus or any of the historic structures within the quarry that climbing is possible. Access to the whole of the upper quarries have become especially sensitive in recent years and climbers should not gather in large numbers, especially at Dali's Hole area. Bolts have been removed from Dali's Hole by a local climber (late 2010) who was concerned that continued use of this venue by large groups of climbers would jeopardise access to the whole site. There have also been a number of reported altercations between climbers and First Hydro security staff over the years at this venue.

BMC advice remains unchanged - the landowners do not give permission for public access (including for climbing) away from the public paths. Please do not damage fences or signs and if accosted by security staff, please be courteous and report any issues to the BMC.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

A fence has been errected across the base of the Dali's Hole area to deter access to this area due to liability concerns by First Hydro. Access to this area is especially sensitive at this time and security staff have been reported to be asking climbers to leave this area.

15m.

Rockfax Description
A great route, which tackles the corner. It is harder than it looks and the crack can sometimes hold a bit of moisture. Belay well back on bolts. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An excellent route up the obvious V groove just right of Launching Pad.

C J Phillips 28/May/1984.

Ticklists

Dinorwig Essentials , North Wales Rock Graded List , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Slate 2018/2019 , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Slate Goals

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High E3
Mid E3
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High E2
Mid E2
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High E1
Mid E1
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Votes cast 85
High 6a
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High 5c
Mid 5c
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Votes cast 83
Votes cast 77
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Grasper

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))

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