Rockfax Description
II, 550m. A long and varied route, with some stiff climbing right at the end. For a more consistent route, many teams opt to the do the first eight pitches of this route and then move right across a ledge system to finish up Children of the Moon, or traverse right midway through pitch 14 just to avoid the final two hard pitches.
1) 5c. Climb a vague and delicate seam up a slab to reach a ledge below and left of a huge roof.
2) 6a. Move left easily then come back right via a slanting corner.
3) 6b. Go leftwards up a slab then drift back right across it.
4) 5c. Follow easier ground up and right to reach a large ledge.
5) 6a+. Climb a thin finger-crack then a slab rightwards to gain a chimney/groove. Follow this then step left at the top to belay.
6) 6a. A series of cracks and slabs lead directly up to a ledge.
7) 6a+. Step right off the belay then climb a delicate slab leftwards before finishing up some excellent finger-cracks.
8) 5b. Climb a short crack and then easy ledges.
Move right across ledges at the end of the pitch to reach the next belay, or continue scrambling across the ledge system to gain the top section of Children of the Moon.
9) 5b. Head up the excellent, relatively easy slab to a stance below a short corner.
10) 5c. Climb up, passing to the left of the corner, and continue to a ledge at the top right end of a long ramp.
11) 6a. Drift up and left across slabs and cracks.
12) 5c. Step right off the belay then come back left to gain a stance just below a huge ramp which splits the upper face.
13) 5c. Cross the ramp and then go up a short crack.
14) 6a. Head up and left up cracks to a stance beneath an impressive corner.
15) 6c+. Climb the steep, chimney to an exposed stance.
16) 6c. Continue up, just to the right of the corner, then step out left around a roof to exit. There are two points of aid to exit the roof. We were unable to find anyone who could offer a free climbing grade so the aid moves seem to be virtually compulsory! Above the roof, follow a short slab to a small ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
L1 : 5c/6a,L2 : 6a, L3 : 6b, all very delicate walls, L1 felt the hardest and unclear from glacier, heads right from obvious chimney.
L4 : 5c, L5 : 6a+ superb layback slanting diagonal crack up blank wall.
L6 : 6a, L7 : 6a+, delicate start up a inset circle, great move out and up of circle. L8 : 5b

Feedback Always Hide βeta