North Yorkshire > Eastby Crag >
 
Nose Climb*** S 4a

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Nose Climb Original >>
[The Gorilla, 3 kb]A cracker, small but perfectly formed. Traverse the horizontal breaks that cross the face to the right arete. Balance up this then finish up the short lived crack in the top right edge of the buttress. Double ropes are useful. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, The 3 star way to yorkshire gritstone's heaven.

Photo: The Gorilla © xusa
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 247 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Hands slipped out of wet breaks on traverse so backed off
Jon Didymus - Solo dnf - 18/May/13

Hidden - Lead - 07/May/13

Rain and hail half way up did not help, good climb though
Simonpeel - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/13

BoulderBully - 2nd β - 03/Mar/13 with BaildonBanker

Bold!
BaildonBanker - Lead - 03/Mar/13 with BoulderBully

jamie d - 2nd - 01/Mar/13

John Brayshaw - 2nd rpt - 01/Dec/12 with Steve Wilson, Phil Mercer

stev1e.wilso - 2nd - 01/Dec/12 with Phil Mercer, John Brayshaw

Phil Mercer - Lead - 01/Dec/12 with Steve Wilson, John Brayshaw

maria85 - 2nd O/S - 11/Nov/12 with Andy H, Jules

Alfuller18 - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with Matthew Fuller

gw3285 - Lead - 14/Oct/12

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Oct/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Oct/12

Great climb
Polly4 - Lead - 07/Oct/12 with Jon Ginesi

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Sep/12

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Sep/12

Hidden - Lead - 23/Aug/12

wrapped in bacon - 2nd O/S - 23/Aug/12 with Daryl

joe_lancs - 2nd O/S - 14/Aug/12

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jul/12

rockman - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Tim Edwards

timcedwards - 2nd - 24/Jul/12 with Geoff Mee

ben.phillips - Solo O/S - 21/Jul/12

tobyk - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12 with Emma Akam

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/12

kitch22 - Solo O/S - 05/Jun/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/May/12

Richard Alderton - 2nd - 12/May/12 with Pickles

Hidden - 2nd - 12/May/12

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Apr/12

adamwesthead - Lead O/S - 29/Mar/12 with Zeb

zebster - Solo rpt - 29/Mar/12 with Adam

zebster - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/12

Great route! Poorly protected but never in any danger of falling off, just got to keep your head.
mattwilk - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Jamie

Belier - Solo O/S - 18/Mar/12 with dad & zak, stead

Did anyone see that the crag looks like a gorilla's face??? i will upload a picture! lovely climb
xusa - 2nd O/S - 06/Mar/12 with Gareth Borthwick

dan stead - Lead O/S - Mar/12 with Steve Chris & Zak

Rob84 - 2nd O/S - 25/Feb/12 with John Seed, Chris Ashton

petegunn - Lead - 23/Feb/12 with Davina

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 23/Feb/12

fall-line - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Job

jac.c123 - 2nd rpt - 28/Jan/12 with andyc123

h-hewlett - 2012

tinyali - 2nd O/S - 27/Nov/11 with Scott Hill

scott.hill - Lead - 27/Nov/11 with Alisa

erica - 2nd - 29/Oct/11 with John

John Brayshaw - Lead rpt - 29/Oct/11 with Erica

This has a bit of everything, really enjoyed it.
dazwan - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Paul S

pastep - 2nd - 23/Oct/11 with Darren W

akhughes - Solo O/S - 07/Oct/11

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Sep/11

David Wynne - Lead - 24/Sep/11 with Adam Burt

APRS - Lead - 09/Sep/11 with Ewan Russell

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 04/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead - 04/Sep/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/11

wheelo - 2nd - 29/Aug/11 with ted, ann

Hidden - Lead - 20/Aug/11

Matt Schwarz - 2nd O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Phillip Johnson

Easy traverse and no problems to protect. Padding up the nose was bold until reached sanctuary of the crack.
eldre070 - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/11 with Neil

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Jul/11

repeat
jimorothy - 2nd - 10/Jul/11 with Scott Barnett

Legionreturns - 2nd O/S - 04/Jul/11 with rob, josh

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Jul/11

Great varied climbing
fast eddie - Lead O/S - Jul/11

andy jennings - Lead O/S - 11/Jun/11 with Momber

MeMeMe - 2nd - 05/Jun/11 with Amy, Woody

Alan Scowcroft - Lead rpt - 04/Jun/11 with Peter Corrigan

Adam1973 - 2nd rpt - 21/May/11 with Ann S

Super little route
Ann S - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Adam

More like HVD if you don't mind the traverse. Quite windy on the day which made the slab moves more entertaining.
ebf - Lead O/S - 15/May/11 with Paul Stephenson, Woody

Hidden - Lead - 01/May/11

Hidden - TR - 01/May/11

Hidden - Lead - 01/May/11

Hidden - Solo O/S - 22/Apr/11

Found it a bit tricky to place gear before starting the traverse but found it okay. I knew what not to do with the ropes but still messed it up! The run-out padding was quite scary; was happy to get to the safety of the final crack.
markhammonds - Lead O/S - 14/Apr/11 with Claire Tunaley

Vikki Haydock - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/11 with Dave Collier

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead - 23/Mar/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/11

CragDog - 2nd - 12/Mar/11 with Ben

Jimbo_28 - Lead O/S - 04/Mar/11

Hidden - Solo - 02/Mar/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 27/Feb/11

phleppy - 2nd - 31/Jan/11 with martin_whitton

Hidden - Lead - 31/Jan/11

mitchellbowen1990 - Lead O/S - 24/Jan/11

Hidden - Lead - 2011

John Brayshaw - Lead rpt - 14/Nov/10 with Josh

jcurrie93 - 2nd O/S - 14/Nov/10 with john brayshaw

Neil Pacey - 2nd rpt - 07/Nov/10 with Tanya Savage

Lovely stuff
Tanya Savage - Lead - 07/Nov/10 with Neil Pacey

jac.c123 - 2nd - 06/Nov/10 with andyc123

wolverine - Lead O/S - 17/Oct/10 with Sarah Marks

excellent a bit of everything, traversing, padding and finally a few jams for good measure
Graeme Hammond - Solo O/S - 10/Oct/10 with Pete aka Dad

Graeme Hammond - 2nd rpt - 10/Oct/10 with Pete aka Dad

stimpey - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Tom, Cas

Anthony Dixon - Lead - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd - 12/Sep/10

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/10

ian caton - 2nd rpt - 22/Aug/10 with Anna, Abi

Abi Chard - Lead O/S - 22/Aug/10 with Anna, Ian

lithos - 2nd - 03/Aug/10

Spent ages messing around with gear on the traverse but couldn't seem to make anything fit. Was a relief to finally find decent gear at the corner. Balancy slab is nice.
Will Smith - Lead O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Rob

beckybray1 - 2nd O/S - 29/Jul/10

rgd1977 - Lead O/S - 29/Jul/10

mfisher - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/10 with Michael Mason

dellboy - 2nd O/S - 03/Jul/10 with Jon Rogerson

jonny5 - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/10 with James Dell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/10

Hanski - 2nd - 01/Jul/10 with Jack

Jack00 - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/10 with Hannah

SMThompson1 - TR - 15/Jun/10

John Brayshaw - TR rpt - 10/Jun/10 with Erica

santobugito - Lead O/S - 31/May/10 with Adam

al99 - Solo O/S - 23/May/10 with Martina Zandonella

martinazando - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with Al Benson

edd rab - Lead O/S - 22/May/10 with Seb

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/May/10

SteWatkins - May/10

mountain man ed - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10

Andrew Wilson - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/10 with Erica Berry

erica - 2nd - 23/Apr/10 with Andy Wilson

the_keef - 2nd O/S - 28/Mar/10 with John Poffley

Hidden - Lead - 21/Mar/10

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Feb/10

flatnose - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/10

Hidden - 2010

Lovely.
Dave Warburton - Solo O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Ewan

Ewan Russell - Solo O/S - 10/Oct/09 with Dave Warburton

heleno - 2nd - 08/Oct/09

John Brayshaw - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/09 with Erica

erica - 2nd - 25/Sep/09 with John

Vikki Haydock - 2nd O/S - 23/Sep/09 with Peter Corrigan

Marc's second lead ever - well above protection on a smooth slab. A classy Lead of the Day
Charlie Evans - 2nd β - 12/Aug/09 with Marc Bromhall, Pete Hansell

Marti999 - Solo O/S - 07/Aug/09

Donal's lead.
Toreador - 2nd rpt - 08/Jul/09 with Carmen and Donal

sjdg5 - 2nd - 28/Jun/09 with trish1968

trish1968 - Lead - 28/Jun/09 with Si

sjdg5 - 2nd - 24/Jun/09 with Dave C

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 24/Jun/09

lucasp - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/09 with Welsh Neil

Hedley - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/09 with Ingrid

Hidden - Lead - May/09

Bennykr - Lead O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Dad

reinschgm - 2nd O/S - 22/Apr/09 with Ben

Hidden - Lead - 19/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Apr/09

David_Gledson - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/09 with Rich Timms

betamonkey - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/09 with Dave Wynne

David Wynne - 2nd - 31/Mar/09 with Rob Nelson

Vikki Haydock - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/09 with Mark Fyles

Loved it. Felt traverse was not too bad for protection. Nice to reach jamming crack after the slab scuttle.
jimorothy - Lead - 01/Mar/09 with Rachel Crolla

David Wynne - 2nd - 01/Mar/09 with Rob Nelson

Adam1973 - 2nd rpt - 22/Feb/09 with Matt Jones

PaulHermes - 22/Feb/09

Matt Bill Platypus - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/09 with Adam

nice route, unprotected on the traverse round the nose and up the slab
pebbles - 2nd - 31/Jan/09

tried the lead but backed off on first move,no probs on the second,at first look seems more like a VS but once you've done it,its ok
raptorheli - 2nd - 10/Dec/08

Hidden - 2nd - 01/Nov/08

Nice climb, runout isn't that bad if you get a small nut in before the slab
gazbonutter - Lead O/S - 01/Nov/08 with Pete MacDonald

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/08

ollie_the_brave - Lead - 12/Oct/08 with rob sykes

So much more enjoyable (and easier) than when I seconded it in 03 and 07.
erica - Lead rpt - 11/Oct/08 with John

John Brayshaw - 2nd rpt - 11/Oct/08 with Erica

Mattyk - 2nd rpt - 27/Sep/08 with Alicia

alicia - Lead O/S - 27/Sep/08 with Matt K

Adam1973 - 2nd rpt - 20/Sep/08 with stewart murray

stewart murray - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/08 with Adam Burt

Timothy Greenhalgh - Lead O/S - 12/Sep/08 with Alison

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/08

Runout!
victim of mathematics - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/08 with Tom

crossdressingrodney - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08 with fergus, catriona

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/08

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jul/08

nick ferro - 13/Jul/08

sparra - 2nd - 02/Jul/08 with Holly

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/08

ollyroberts - Lead O/S - 04/Jun/08 with Adam

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/08

SteveM - Lead O/S - 13/May/08 with Mark

Adam1973 - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Jon Lury

IanJackson - Solo O/S - 30/Mar/08 with Big Ian

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/08

Hidden - Lead - 16/Mar/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/08

ewen - 10/Feb/08

John Brayshaw - Solo rpt - 09/Feb/08

erica - 2nd - 04/Nov/07 with John

John Brayshaw - Lead rpt - 04/Nov/07 with Erica

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Oct/07

liz_limpet - 2nd O/S - 26/Oct/07 with Sam Cartwright

PaulHermes - 2nd β - 14/Oct/07 with VCC

David Wynne - 2nd - 11/Sep/07 with paul godwin

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/07

Quite a long run out without gear but good fun...
debbien1 - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/07 with Robin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Jun/07

Mattyk - Solo O/S - 29/May/07 with Ali K

Hidden - Solo O/S - 29/May/07

Darrell Read - Lead - 21/Apr/07 with Ian Baker

bob3141 - 2nd - 21/Apr/07 with Oliver Mentz

Sarah Bough - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Jo Burke, Dan Curtis

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/07

Daniel Curtis - 2nd O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Sarah Bough, Jo Burke

Hidden - Lead - 15/Apr/07

Neil Pacey - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/07 with Tanya Savage

pdisney - 2nd - 12/Apr/07 with Dom

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Apr/07

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Feb/07

Wayne S - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/06

Brown - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/06 with Jessika

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/05

Hidden - 2nd - 22/May/05

Chesh - Lead - May/05 with Lawrence

leighjepson - Lead - Apr/05 with Tim Watkins

Hidden - Solo - Feb/05

VS4b - 2nd - 2005

Nobby - 2nd - 2005

Stone Muppet - 2005

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Dec/04

Toreador - 2nd O/S - 18/Jul/04 with Carmen

chrishedgehog - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/03 with Paul

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Apr/03

John Brayshaw - Lead rpt - 22/Sep/02 with Pete Greaves

The Pylon King - Lead - Mar/02 with Fiend

John Brayshaw - Lead rpt - 27/Jul/00 with John Kennedy, Martin Cooper

Heisenberg - Lead - 15/Jun/00 with les ward

Andy Say - Solo - 12/Mar/00

Hidden - Solo O/S - 19/Feb/00

Hidden - Solo - 25/Sep/99

John Brayshaw - Lead rpt - 08/Sep/98 with Martin Cooper

Dave Musgrove - Solo O/S - 30/Jan/98

Iain Thow - Solo - 02/May/94

Tom V - 30/Jun/90 with Glenn Watson

lithos - Lead O/S - 1990

thinair48 - Lead - 1990

Hidden - Solo - 19/Oct/85

hazeysunshine - Lead O/S - 1985

John Brayshaw - Lead O/S - 1984 with John Harrison

Nic Robinson - 1980

Hidden - Solo - 28/May/76

Dave Musgrove - Solo - 01/Aug/71 with Keith Butler, Andy Wild

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, odox, robman, alexyoung, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 115
hard HS0 of 41
HS0 of 41
easy HS3 of 41
hard S11 of 41
S26 of 41
easy S1 of 41
hard HVD0 of 41
HVD0 of 41
easy HVD0 of 41
hard 4b0 of 35
4b0 of 35
easy 4b1 of 35
hard 4a3 of 35
4a29 of 35
easy 4a2 of 35
hard 3c0 of 35
3c0 of 35
easy 3c0 of 35
3 Stars17 of 39
2 Stars21 of 39
1 Star1 of 39
0 Stars0 of 39
Bag of .....0 of 39
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed26 of 247 (10.5%)
Lead116 of 247 (47.0%)
Followed92 of 247 (37.2%)
Toproped3 of 247 (1.2%)
Unknown10 of 247 (4.0%)

'Climbed'100 of 247 (40.5%)
clean O/S117 of 247 (47.4%)
clean β3 of 247 (1.2%)
clean rpt26 of 247 (10.5%)
dnf1 of 247 (0.4%)