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No Musketeers (Direct Finish)*** E1 5c

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Avoid the final step right by finishing directly through the bulge via a long reach or a mini-dyno. Well protected, worthwhile and over in a jiffy.
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 207 logbooks, and on 9 wishlists.

mes32 - Lead β - 13/Apr/14 with Aileen

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Apr/14

Seemed more like HVS 5b to me on second.
pheotleyr - 2nd O/S - 19/Mar/14 with Pete

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Nov/13

tomhull - 2nd β - 04/Sep/13 with Stephen Cumberland

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/13

zcsharp - Lead dog - 18/Aug/13 with Joe Innes

bpmclimb - Lead rpt - 13/Aug/13 with Greg Clarke

Easy E1. Small nut high in crack, the crux is over in a jiffy.
Dave Mahon - 2nd rpt - 02/Aug/13 with Matt Jackson

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 25/Jun/13

Argh, another e1 with a single frustrating fall
alastairbegley - Lead dog - 25/Jun/13 with Chris Begley, Julia Begley

Abi Chard - Lead β - 21/Jun/13 with Ian

2 moves and three stars. Strange.
ian caton - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/13 with Abi

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Jun/13

Duncan Turner - Lead - 12/Jun/13

Failed on last bit (direct ascent). Ran out of hand holds.......It would have helped if I was a bit taller :-)
Quirina - 2nd dog - 01/Jun/13 with Paul Osborn

Dave-Westlake - 18/May/13

Put 4 small wires in. A couple of hard moves then it's all over
Dave Mahon - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Brian Mead

Left my climbing shoes, just decided to go in my trainers anyway, a single tricky move(not reachy if you move your feet up!) with gear at waist height. Ana seconded cleanly, jody opted for the pendulum traverse.
Dean177 - Lead O/S - 05/May/13 with Jody Claridge, Jenni B, Ana

steve_gibbs - Lead O/S - 05/May/13

First E1 :) - had to rest on the crux but loved every minute. At 5'6 I didn't find it that reachy. Amazing gear all the way - bring lots of wires!
ellmang - Lead - 05/May/13

1st route of day, wasn't up to the crux so had a quick sit down :)
Phil Murray - 2nd dog - 05/May/13 with Steve Wright

First E1 seconding
Paraicj - 2nd O/S - 05/May/13

mes32 - 2nd O/S - 28/Apr/13 with Wilki

Finished between the E1 & HVS
fatbuoybazza - Lead dnf - 28/Apr/13 with deborah

Chubbard - 2nd - 28/Apr/13 with Mark C

definitely not 5C if you are taller...
evhall - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/13 with Fletch

AJM - 2nd rpt - 07/Apr/13 with Stuart Fox, Tom Lambert

a couple of tricky moves
misterb - Lead O/S - 24/Feb/13 with tom

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Not quite the line I was going to take when I started the route. Quite a long reach for someone so short. Also rather run out, as I kicked the small nut out doing the final move.
67hours - Lead O/S - 22/Sep/12 with Becky H

simeclimb68 - Lead rpt - 19/Sep/12

Ali.B - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/12 with MikeDinsdale

Hidden - Lead β - 17/Sep/12

mattshort - Lead - 16/Sep/12 with Phil Porter, Dave West

17th of 17 routes in 6 hours.
ericinbristol - Lead rpt - 02/Sep/12 with Johnny S

Tom Hill - Lead dog - 30/Jul/12 with Andrew Gee

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12

matjam - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/12

Great gear for some faaaairly reachy top moves, great route all round.
mattgrange - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/12

Luuuuuke - Lead O/S - 24/Jul/12 with Si

At 5ft 2 without a long reach or the desire to dyno on lead, some tenuous smears and determination got me through the crux. Definitely 5C for the short! Amazing route.
Cat Hendrie - Lead O/S - 21/Jul/12

This is not 5C - far too easy.
ASchwirtz - 2nd O/S - 01/Jul/12 with Richard Ashe

richardashe - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/12 with ASchwirtz

very well protected, great route
rurp - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/12

mjeffery - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/12 with Ando

Hidden - 2nd - 20/May/12

Don't think I really qualify as 'tall', but I possibly lose half a tech grade for lack of style - reached up on highest limit of tip toes and hooked the hold and then kicked and scraped upwards.
mullermn - Lead rpt - 15/Apr/12 with Luke Vincent

chris sm - Lead rpt - 02/Apr/12 with Damien ?

Hidden - 2nd β - 30/Mar/12

the one where steve didn't notice the crucial hold on the 5c part
missxandrabee - 2nd dog - 30/Mar/12 with Steve

stevorobs3 - Lead β - 30/Mar/12 with Xandra

pearson9596 - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/12 with Dave Brock

spicy top couple of moves but excellent gear which can be snicked in from well below
hms - Lead O/S - 11/Oct/11 with Brian

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 11/Oct/11 with Helen S

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Oct/11

so much more worthwhile than the original. small nuts protect
stvredmond - Lead - 24/Sep/11 with kelwyn

KDW - 2nd dog - 24/Sep/11 with Steve II

Excellent line with this finish. No chance of a 'long reach' at my height!
Andy Clarke - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/11 with Alex

Hidden - Lead β - 21/Aug/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/11

nice
riddle - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jul/11

MD - 2nd - 10/Jul/11 with Mark H, Ed

I think I seconded this a few years ago with Misha, so only a "more or less" onsight. Found the moves fine after sticking a few wires in. Got attacked by the wasps nest a couple of metres left at the top, they left me alone when I shuffled down and right slightly from the belay point.
eduardo - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11

Binder - 2nd dog - 02/Jul/11 with JT

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

CRiddiford - 2nd - 27/Jun/11 with Becca

What reach? I'm 5"2 and had no problem - use your feet! Definitely so much better to do the direct.
BeccaSnowden - Lead rpt - 27/Jun/11 with Caroline

Marti999 - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Anna

AlexRenshaw - 2nd - 23/May/11 with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw

Monk - Lead O/S - 21/May/11 with Mullermn

Really enjoyed this even more this time. Tried direct finish and came off. Possibly my favourite route in this part of the crag.Think I have the moves worked out now.
mullermn - 2nd dog - 21/May/11 with Monkey

Very good route!E1(5C) long reach at the top can be protected with a small micro nut. My second E1 to date.
Fred_Richard - Lead O/S - 19/May/11 with Andy Mccoy, Nathan

Nathanrobinson - 2nd - 19/May/11 with Frederic Richard & Andy McCoy

AndyMcCoy - 2nd dog - 19/May/11 with Nathan, Fred

Messed about for ages getting gear in before going for the crux. Found the crux moves easy once I finally committed.
leon - Lead O/S - 01/May/11 with Amanda Skeldon, Andy Bell

alj - 2nd - 01/May/11 with leon skeldon

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Apr/11

mark schramm - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/11 with si

richw2k2 - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Dale

Lovely climb. Didn't think crux was too bad and I'm only 5'10" (edit apr 2014 - turns out I'm only 5'9" haha)
dean79 - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/11 with Marcos31

Dale - Lead O/S - Apr/11 with rich

guy xavier percival - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/11 with paul

bpmclimb - 2nd rpt - 21/Mar/11 with James Lane

Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11 with ah

Marcos31 - 2nd - 17/Oct/10 with Simon Crisp

Couldn't finish direct last time but nailed it today
Matt Johnson - 2nd β - 17/Oct/10 with Marcos31, Si Crisp

peaches69 - Lead rpt - 17/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 19/Sep/10

ElvisLeg - 2nd O/S - 17/Sep/10 with Mike Grant

This was my first ever E1 Lead
Herron - Lead O/S - 16/Sep/10 with Shane Underwood

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Aug/10

scoot - 2nd O/S - 28/Aug/10 with The Chairman, Becky Athay

really nice climbing throughout, bit of a reach for a shorty (5'9") near the top
peaches69 - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/10 with matt, sarah

rob1 - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/10 with Alex Wellings

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/10 with GF

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10

The Pylon King - 2nd rpt - 06/Jul/10 with Tradlad

danJBA - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/10

Was being stupid and not watching my feet! Fell off and might have jammed a size 1 nut in a crack...sorry!
jhawton - Lead dog - 06/Jun/10 with danJBA

Garron - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/10

Hidden - 2nd - 29/May/10

Hidden - Lead β - 28/May/10

chris sm - Lead rpt - 23/May/10 with Paul Osborn

ian d f - Lead O/S - 23/May/10 with Grace Chuchla

Paul Bowen - Lead rpt - 15/May/10 with rob jenkins, John Crane

martinazando - 2nd O/S - 03/May/10 with Al Benson

al99 - Lead O/S - 03/May/10 with Martina Zandonella

benscarter - TR - May/10

Hidden - May/10

Sam W - Lead - 24/Apr/10 with Nina Jenkinson

stuart34 - 2nd - 24/Apr/10 with tim ashlin

Fantastic!
JWB - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Jon Gill

jon_gill1 - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with john beardmore

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Apr/10

DanH9883 - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/10 with Lee

peggy_on_the_rocks - 2nd dog - 07/Apr/10 with DanH9883

Phil PBC - 2010

chalkiesurf - 2010

Mostly interesting VS climbing with one much harder move near the top. A nice route.
The Ivanator - 2nd - 18/Oct/09 with Guy, Sean

Perryman - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/09 with GUY DAVENPORT, Ivan Bicknell

pete should have gone up this. satisfying finish.
duzinga - 2nd O/S - 05/Sep/09 with Gary, Pete

JimR - 2nd - 11/Aug/09 with Guy

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead - Jun/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 31/May/09

shoulders - Lead - 31/May/09 with dai

Superb route.
poey50 - Lead O/S - 30/May/09 with Rowan15

Dan_Carroll - 2nd O/S - 23/May/09 with Eric Herring

Danhan - 2nd - 23/May/09 with Steve

3 Names - Lead O/S - 23/May/09 with Dan H

mark89 - 2nd O/S - 05/May/09

Direct finish is well worthwhile, as others have said no need for any dyno/long reach.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/09 with Becca

BeccaSnowden - 2nd O/S - 16/Apr/09 with Tom

chris sm - 2nd rpt - 15/Mar/09 with Pippa Froggatt

summo - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

Dyno not necessary - I'm not that tall and managed it static.
bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/08 with Clare

chris sm - 2nd rpt - 01/Nov/08 with Paul Osborn

Mark Walter - 2nd O/S - 22/Jun/08 with Tim Wilkinson

Tim W - Lead rpt - 22/Jun/08 with Mark Walter, Marina Unterfosthuber

Hidden - Lead - 18/May/08

Direct finish gave me grief
leigh - 2nd dog - 18/May/08 with Ed

CarolineH - 2nd O/S - 17/Apr/08 with Dave

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/08 with Caroline

Wilbur - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/08 with Morgan

Nice and easy up until the bulge, rushed the moves so missed vital foot holds! Get it clean next time.
Eccentric - Lead dog - 29/Jan/08 with Lois

Hidden - 2008

Owen W-G - Lead O/S - 17/Nov/07 with Tony Seale

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/07

Really good climbing! Gear is immaculate!
SamStokes - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/07 with Ben Matthews

featuresforfeet - 2nd O/S - 19/May/07 with Clive M

kenneM - 2nd - May/07 with Booby Hewitt

Lovely climb, amazingly well protected crux (which I fell on).
David Martin - Lead dog - 14/Apr/07 with Chris

Kirill - 2nd - 24/Mar/07 with Charles Moreton

cem - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/07 with Graham Dolman

max_chan - Lead O/S - 07/Oct/06 with Chuck

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 28/Sep/06

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/06 with chris broadly

Only a couple of 5c moves. Amazing pro.
DrGav - Lead O/S - 16/Jul/06 with Wendy

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Apr/06

Dave Latimer - Lead O/S - 23/Mar/06

Bern - 2006

mike kann - 2006

Hidden - 2nd - 2006

Stone Muppet - 2006

First part is straight forward, top was a bit more tricky.
sam8oy - Lead O/S - 18/Sep/05 with John

BruceW - Lead O/S - Aug/04 with Jen

my excuse for faffing and resting was it was pouring with rain by the time it was my turn!
Simon Caldwell - 2nd dog - 27/Jun/04 with Ian A

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/04

Brucifer - 2nd - 01/Jun/04 with alan rosier

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/04

Will Homoky - Lead O/S - 16/Aug/03 with Dawn Forbes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/03

Hidden - Lead β - May/03

Hidden - Lead - 03/Apr/03

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2003

chris sm - Lead O/S - 2003 with Dom Goodridge

pezzerrr - Lead O/S - 05/Sep/01

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

ericinbristol - Lead β - 2000 with Christine

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/May/99

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/99

Roget - Lead O/S - 09/May/98

Tim Sparrow - 2nd - 1998 with Geoff Thomas

Nigel Coe - Lead - 1998

Rog Wilko - Lead - Oct/95 with Debbie Wilkinson

goi.ashmore - Lead RP - 14/Aug/95 with Dee Herbert

Mark Salter - Lead dog - 14/Mar/95 with Chris Shorrock

AndySL - Lead O/S - 1995 with Pete H

Backinthegame - Lead - Jun/93 with Lynn Wilkins, John Wright

Forgot rock boots so led it barefoot. Nice route with bomber gear. Not really sure why it says long reach or dyno though? I am only 5'4 and did it statically.
Guy - Lead O/S - May/93

RichardMc - 2nd - 27/May/92 with John Evans

sdht - 1992

whispering nic - Aug/91 with Ali W

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/90

Derek Ryden - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/90 with Andy Forbes

ChrisJD - 2nd - 07/Jun/90

GordonHart - Lead O/S - 1990 with Clare Hart

mark-abz - Lead - 06/Aug/89 with Phill R

Tony Buckley - Lead - Oct/88

sadams - 2nd - 16/Apr/87 with Guy Townsend

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, explodingsprouts, WalnutHorse, zombie_pat, jeffsheard, Hidden, Hidden, Eccentric, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 166
hard E20 of 56
E20 of 56
easy E20 of 56
hard E10 of 56
E127 of 56
easy E127 of 56
hard HVS2 of 56
HVS0 of 56
easy HVS0 of 56
hard 6a0 of 57
6a0 of 57
easy 6a0 of 57
hard 5c2 of 57
5c30 of 57
easy 5c16 of 57
hard 5b8 of 57
5b1 of 57
easy 5b0 of 57
3 Stars35 of 53
2 Stars17 of 53
1 Star1 of 53
0 Stars0 of 53
Bag of .....0 of 53
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Style of ascent

Lead117 of 207 (56.5%)
Followed75 of 207 (36.2%)
Toproped1 of 207 (0.5%)
Unknown14 of 207 (6.8%)

'Climbed'54 of 207 (26.1%)
clean O/S105 of 207 (50.7%)
clean β11 of 207 (5.3%)
clean rpt18 of 207 (8.7%)
clean RP1 of 207 (0.5%)
dogged17 of 207 (8.2%)
dnf1 of 207 (0.5%)