Rockfax Description
A strong line, good gear, and plenty of variety make this a worthwhile and popular route. Start on a belay ledge beneath a groove.
Move easily up the wall right of the streaked groove and then step left to a small corner at 5m. Take the corner past a peg, and the relatively bold wall above on good holds to a ledge at the base of a right-leaning corner, where there are some more pegs. Climb the corner to a difficult and polished exit onto a ledge. Finish up easier rock to a large tree at the top of the crag. Walk off or abseil from the tree. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Belay on good nuts on the highest ledge below the finishing groove(its easy to abseil in from a silver birch at the top). Climb delicately up on rough rock to hand jams in a break and an old peg. Move up a shallow groove, then slightly rightwards and up to a good ledge (3 pegs). Enter the V-groove on the left and climb it, exiting onto ledges. Continue easily to a tree belay.

C Jones, J Whooton (1 pt aid) 1964

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

Pohil 12/Nov Lead O/S
with SP
danmullett 26/Oct -
Si Carter 22/Oct 2nd
with Colin Tiley
valuks1 17/Oct 2nd

Good to revisit this route after 31 years!

with Phil knight
Hidden 27/Sep Lead
Hidden 18/Sep 2nd O/S
nickwhimster 05/Aug Lead O/S

Protection didn't feel great on first half, had to wait out a rain shower by first peg. Good pitch.

monsteratt 05/Aug 2nd O/S

Good route punctuated by a rain shower

Matt77 11/Jul Lead O/S

I didn't find this much easier than Choker. It wasn't as well protected as I was expecting given the guidebook description (although I may just have missed some placements) and there were a couple of tricky moves a good way above gear. Last route of a quality week in the South West.

RyanOsborne 11/Jul 2nd
jammy4536 14/Jun Lead O/S

A great testpiece of the grade. Feel the polish at the top detracts from the 2 star rating now as its pretty scary

steve_gibbs 14/Jun 2nd rpt
with Jamie MacLeod
Hidden 12/Jun Lead
alastairbegley 31/May Lead RP

Seconded this a few years ago. Really good climbing, felt pretty tough for HVS.

with Jason
Tala M 30/May 2nd O/S

Hard for the grade, but it may have just felt that way due to the rather loose nature of the rock

will_benfold 18/Apr Lead O/S

The moves up to the three-peg ledge felt bold and were not particularly easy. Second half was fine.

andy dunn 17/Apr Lead rpt
with J
Luxulyan 14/Mar 2nd
with Tim
tim.fairhall 14/Mar Lead O/S
with Richard
mike lawrence? 06/Mar Lead
with FatRob
katherinesydney 29/Dec/14 2nd dog
with neil morbey
martinlevya82 19/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Stuart William ?/Nov/14 2nd β
with Martin
steve_gibbs 02/Oct/14 Lead rpt
felixizzy 20/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Felt pretty scary. Cant help but resent the guy who wrote good gear in the guide. There may have been but I didn't find much of it. More like cams in shallow breaks and nuts behind loose blocks. Still loved it.

with Mike
Hidden 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Kemics 15/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed climbing this. Quite challenging for HVS and the last bit is a little intimidating. A lot of loose blocks, but gear wear and polish suggests they've been there for a while at least.

with Juliuus
tobydunford 30/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 19/Jun/14 2nd dog
LucasHarazin 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/14 Lead rpt
Kevster 04/May/14 Lead O/S

A bit of a forgetable climb

with Josh Leak
Phil Murray 18/Apr/14 Lead rpt

Great ! very enjoyable .finished on RH tree lower down, which has a good lower off on it. Quality - a bit polished and some loose bits.

with Ian Law
Luke Davies 16/Mar/14 Lead
Hidden 09/Mar/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Mar/14 2nd O/S
Andrew Sloan 22/Feb/14 2nd O/S

A hard delicate move above the first peg (5b?).Maybe felt hard as my first route outside since last September.

Martin Haworth 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
with Andy
hipyhop 02/Feb/14 AltLd O/S

P1, Jordan led P2

Lazytraveller 02/Feb/14 AltLd O/S
tonevert ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Emily
James Jackson ??/2014 -
ollie_e 30/Nov/13 Lead O/S
chrisscutt 30/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with oly
pheotleyr 25/Nov/13 Lead rpt

Easy except for the crux move. And the slightly bold section before the 1st peg.

with Mike
Mayaculpa 25/Nov/13 2nd

Was fazed by the unstable blocks supporting overhanging corner, and resisting temptation to monkey on up (which would have been nice) passed by delicately.

with Peter
kenneM 12/Nov/13 Lead
with Mike Dudley
Hidden 18/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Matt_L_Robinson 18/Oct/13 2nd
jameslam 31/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Becky
Hidden 20/Aug/13 2nd
Hidden 20/Aug/13 Lead
Dave Mahon 18/Aug/13 Lead O/S

My first quarried Avon climb. Felt stiff for HVS as I was getting used to the blocky rock with sparse gear. The pegs mostly looked OK. Rained for last third of route so had to be careful. So did Brian on the follow!

with Brian Mead
stafford101 07/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Great route, never lacking in holds but with some loose rock towards the top.

with Charlie
cbeard 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
zcsharp 24/Jul/13 2nd rpt
steve_gibbs 24/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
markfromstoke 25/Jun/13 Lead
with Adrian, Steve N
VPJB 09/Jun/13 Lead
yan hawkins 07/Jun/13 2nd β
with john
Cheese Monkey 29/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Peter
pheotleyr 29/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with Ben
pheotleyr 17/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Brilliant climbing with quite a lot of gear, just a little bold at the start maybe.

with James
James S 17/Apr/13 2nd rpt
with peter
Hidden 18/Feb/13 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 06/Jan/13 2nd O/S
Neil Morbey 06/Jan/13 AltLd
with Alastair
jcw ??/2013 -
stevoland 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
jon_ridley 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S
James S 20/Aug/12 2nd O/S
with jamie
zcsharp 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with James S
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
Billg 15/Jul/12 2nd
victim of mathematics 17/Jun/12 2nd O/S
crossdressingrodney 17/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Not quite as good gear as SWC guidebook suggests. Was very glad to clip the first peg from tippie-toes. A nice route, but definitely has a touch of the Main Wall feel to it.

tim_mcd 08/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with jelaby
HarryB 24/May/12 Lead O/S


with Al
Poco Loco 24/May/12 2nd O/S

Good lead Will, it was really humid and sweaty. Fun climb, but some alarming hanging blocks near the top!

with Will Wykes
Hidden 19/May/12 2nd
steveprice.exmouth 18/May/12 2nd
with David Coley
Poco Loco 17/Apr/12 Lead dnf

I got to what looked like the crux, to continue above the first peg to reach the ledge with pegs above (not visible from below), but couldn't commit to the move. Lowered off, Will started up and then it rained... Abbed in to retrieve gear. Looks good, will come back and do it properly.

with Will Wykes
Ed Babs 06/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Marti
Marti999 06/Mar/12 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Jan/12 Lead rpt
abtibbs ??/2012 AltLd O/S
with Jack Verber
georgeevans88 10/Dec/11 Lead O/S

Seemed quite runout between the first peg and the 3 peg optional belay. I couldn't find any gear in between. Could just have been that I haven't climbed on main wall for a couple of years and need to find my main wall head again though. Excellent route.

with Alex P
aipattison 10/Dec/11 2nd rpt
BeccaSnowden 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Really good. Felt hard - a bit reachy in places.

with Tom
Alan100 30/Oct/11 Lead

Stayed on the left at the start which made it a bit harder but more interesting. Good route with a change in style half way.

mullermn 29/Oct/11 2nd dog

I found this a really hard route. Granted it rained quite heavily for about 15 minutes while I was waiting for my turn to climb, but still!

Monk 29/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this route. Protection is sufficient, but you have to climb well above it several times. I actually thought that the crux was getting on for 5b - maybe I did it wrong? Got to the top just before the rain started, which made things interesting for the seconds!

with Andy A, kylie
Kylie 29/Oct/11 2nd dnf

It rained just as I set off, made it to what I beleive to be the crux and couldn't get any further and lowered off. Rather hard, especially in the wet!

Hidden 23/Oct/11 Lead rpt
Aaron Lines 23/Oct/11 2nd
with elerie
Gary S 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Tom Moat
jiggerypokery 07/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Nick Russell 04/Oct/11 Lead O/S

a few cobwebs in the cracks, but otherwise pretty enjoyable. A bit runout at the start, though I think I may have been a bit off-route (left) and making it difficult for myself

dan ely 04/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with nick
thomasadixon 04/Oct/11 2nd rpt
with Quico
Hidden 30/Sep/11 2nd
Paul Robertson 24/Sep/11 2nd O/S
with DSM
wildrover220 15/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Steve Winslow ?/Aug/11 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ 12/Jul/11 2nd rpt
with Steve Winslow, Tom Harrison
Quarryboy 10/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Quite soft for the grade me thinks. Definitely HVS though, a few tricky moves but nothing desperate. There was one move that I found surprisingly reachy despite being 6 foot 4.

Stanners 10/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Wobbly blocks where you don't want them! Otherwise well worthwhile!

Tom Brierley Gore 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Really didn't like this climb, found it to be hard for a HVS and a bit unprotected, also the rock sticking out under the overhang is loose... down climbed to clip a peg further right and under the overhang before doing the top because i didn't trust it.

karenhh 19/Jun/11 2nd
tommytuffa 14/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with andy
Hidden 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
jas128 09/Jun/11 2nd β
Slick 01/Jun/11 Lead
Hidden 01/Jun/11 Lead O/S
mandy ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with tom
Hidden 30/May/11 Lead rpt
gilbert 22/May/11 2nd O/S

What a difference from suspension bridge buttress. The felt hard after yesterday and was a hard warm up - quarried limestone my favourite??

with Jonathan Percival
ruaidh 17/May/11 Lead O/S

Cool climb. Bit brambley, not too polished though... until it started raining that is.

with Ben
gripped01 ?/May/11 Lead
with Gilbert
aipattison 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S

What a good climb! Sustained but not too pumpy, enough gear and not too polished.

with Alex Malins
Hidden 24/Apr/11 2nd rpt
clams ?/Apr/11 Lead O/S

gear before mid-height ledge: reasonable no 2 friend in horizontal crack, followed by no 2 nut

with PR
Didymus 21/Mar/11 2nd O/S

Backed off from crux which for me was awkward reach for better holds up short corner above first peg (condition poor). Quite polished but nice climbing. Brambles a bit annoying near top exit

with Nick
Hidden 15/Mar/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jan/11 Lead dnf
pezzerrr 17/Oct/10 2nd O/S
andy dunn 25/Sep/10 2nd
with J
TDembrey 17/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Clay
Clay C 17/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Todd
Chris Sansum 10/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Good route. Very polished on the final move, which was slippy, despite the perfect conditions recently!

with Gary Lewin
andy dunn 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Not as polished as the guidebook description would suggest. Good climbing.

with Rob U, Alan
bobumf 06/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Seconded good climb although exposed in places

with Andy dunn, Alan Howells
Dale ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Top and HVS, good route

with johny
Hidden 28/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Phil PBC ??/2010 -
alasdair19 ??/2010 -
Hidden 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 30/May/09 2nd
with GF
maresia 07/Dec/08 2nd O/S
with Rob Scheichl
Al Franks 03/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Harry Allan
Alasdair88 03/Oct/08 2nd O/S
with Harry Allen
Dr Caterpillar 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S

Hope to lead at some point, nice climbing

with Wayne
PaulWatson 15/Aug/08 2nd O/S

Much better this time, took my time and no real problems though assistance required on last difficult move. Thanks for that guys, fantastic experience, great climb.

with Alistair, Rosy
Hidden 20/Jul/08 Lead O/S
Paz 20/Jul/08 2nd rpt

Cleaned a lot of veg off seconding, so this may seem to be a bit dusty until it next rains.

with WG
Hidden 30/May/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 26/May/08 Lead
Hidden 22/May/08 Lead
Hidden 06/May/08 2nd O/S
_m.cox_ ?/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Mar/08 Lead O/S
georgeevans88 ?/Feb/08 Lead
with Francis
Francis Lister ?/Feb/08 2nd
ian d f ??/2008 2nd
thomasadixon 11/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Nicolas
Hidden 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 26/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Joe
Hidden 05/Sep/07 Lead rpt
Hidden 10/Jun/07 Lead O/S
leigh 09/Apr/07 2nd
with Ed
Hidden ?/Apr/07 Lead
Marti999 ?/Mar/07 -
Lev 08/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Emma Ross, Cormac McFarlane
Hidden 08/Jun/06 2nd O/S
beardy mike ??/2006 2nd

In one pitch

with Rob Scheicl
Marcus ??/2006 -
Fat Tim 08/Jun/05 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
al99 ?/Mar/05 Lead O/S
with James Byrne
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S

Got a rockcentric 5 stuck.

with Sam Lillywhite
IceMonkey1982 ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/Dec/04 2nd O/S
furry ?/Jun/04 2nd
with Neil
Urgles ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Beesley (oliver)
AndySL 02/May/04 Lead O/S
with Mark
simon kimber ?/Nov/03 Lead O/S
Paz ?/May/03 Lead O/S
with SN
Jason Gotel ?/Jul/02 TR


Hidden ??/2000 -
gimmer ?/May/99 Lead O/S
with Franni
Jim Brooke 25/Oct/97 2nd O/S
with James Latham
mikej 30/Apr/95 Lead
with Nick Salmon
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
mark-abz 14/May/88 AltLd
with Andy W
eroica64 21/Feb/88 AltLd
with Denis Crampton
JamieAyres ?/Aug/85 AltLd O/S

led the top pitch that day

with Phil Windall
Pete Nugent 04/Aug/84 AltLd O/S

I led p2 [HVS, 4c** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)

with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)
leland stamper ?/Jun/84 2nd dnf

Mark fell at first pitch crux and hit deck. Broke leg. Left it at that for the day.

with Mark V
charlesmfrench 06/Apr/84 Lead O/S
stp 26/Aug/83 Solo rpt
Hidden ?/Jul/82 Solo O/S
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1981 -
tapley 05/Oct/80 Lead
with Alison Tapley
peterbeaumont ??/1980 -
beaumap 02/Sep/77 Lead
with Pete Coghill
Hidden ??/1977 2nd O/S
steve L 24/Feb/76 AltLd O/S
with Morty
Hidden ??/1973 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, James A.S Read, Richardlake, JoeE, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Katherine Ross, JamesRich, Alan100, poey50
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 48
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 43
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set