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The Lich** HVS 5a

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[at the top of one hell of a windy experience on 'the lich', 4 kb]30m. An Avon favourite, featuring fine climbing, protection and positions. Start on a belay ledge up and right from the larger belay ledge at the base of The Corpse. 30m. Step up to a smaller ledge on the right. Follow the line of weakness left of the blunt right-hand arete to a peg underneath a shattered overhang, and pull over the overhang with care. Move up to another small overhang and move left past a peg, and then up and back right towards the arete. Take the thin crack to a final overlap and move left and up the final slab. Various tree belays. Walk off or abseil from the trees. © ROCKFAX
An Avon favourite, featuring fine climbing, protection and positions. Start on a belay ledge up and right from the larger belay ledge at the base of The Corpse. Step up to a smaller ledge on the right. Follow the line of weakness left of the blunt right-hand arete to a peg underneath a shattered overhang, and pull over the overhang with care. Move up to another small overhang and move left past a peg, and then up and back right towards the arete. Take the thin crack to a final overlap and move left and up the final slab. Various tree belays. Walk off or abseil from the trees.
B Annette, M Thompson (1 pt aid) 1961

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Photo: at the top of one hell of a windy experience on 'the lich' © Stanners
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 183 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

twem - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/14 with Alastair

alastairbegley - 2nd rpt - 24/Aug/14 with Andrew Twemlow

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/14

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jul/14

jon_ridley - 2nd O/S - 21/May/14 with Jonny Forster

Really nice route. There is a foothold early on that is very polished; luckily didn't slip off on it.
squicky - 2nd O/S - 15/May/14 with PeteM

Slick - Lead - 14/May/14 with Kevin Vans-Colina

In shade - felt a bit cold & tricky!
Phil Murray - 2nd rpt - 18/Apr/14 with Ian Law

Luke Davies - Lead - 17/Mar/14

Andrew Sloan - Lead O/S - 22/Feb/14 with Martin Haworth

tonevert - Lead O/S - 2014 with Kevin Faux

kenneM - 2nd - 12/Nov/13 with Mike Dudley

Excellent! Lots of 5a climbing, some of it felt quite hard, gear not overly great on the lower third, so felt very much upper end HVS. A bit of rain at the start and strong winds towards the top added to the interest.
pheotleyr - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/13 with Mike

Fine route. Dodged the showers and blustery weather. Zig Zagging round the overhang was fun. Only saw one Avon Shrimp !
Mayaculpa - 2nd - 02/Nov/13 with Peter

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Oct/13

Matt_L_Robinson - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/13

saraguti - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/13 with rick sewards

to escape from 'The Mal'...
evhall - Lead rpt - 01/Sep/13 with goat

Very good climbing throughout, though I thought it was sustained difficulty throughout the climb.
zcsharp - Lead rpt - 24/Jul/13 with Steve Gibbs

steve_gibbs - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/13

Anthony Dixon - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/13

AlexD - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Ed

Ed Babs - 2nd O/S - 06/May/13 with AlexD

alastairbegley - 2nd rpt - 24/Apr/13 with Neil Morbey

Excellent. Not particularly run out? Sustained 4c/5a moves, well good
Cheese Monkey - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/13 with Oli

crossdressingrodney - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/13 with Ben

HarryB - Lead O/S - 15/Feb/13 with Jack, Alex Tibbs

abtibbs - 2nd O/S - 15/Feb/13 with Jack Verber, Harry Bloxham

alastairbegley - Lead O/S - 06/Jan/13 with Neil Morbey

Neil Morbey - AltLd - 06/Jan/13 with Alastair

jcw - 2013

First half is crap. Loose rock, poor and fiddly protection. The second half the quality of rock and protection increases and makes it a worth while route. Lots of avon shrimps!
Kemics - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with Enduro Dan

And then Jason and Ami got benighted on Bonbogies
Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 27/Oct/12 with md

evhall - Lead rpt - 27/Oct/12 with goat

Hidden - Lead rpt - 06/Oct/12

Ragingpossum - 2nd - 06/Oct/12 with willbris3

Big runout in a section of series of 5b moves on fairly loose rocks, followed by a 5c crux with 10 metres of fall potential (I negotiated the crux overhang from the left)... At least E2. Did we climb the right route...? Not sure.
masa-alpin - Lead O/S - 30/Sep/12 with Jamie R, Simon Da

aipattison - 2nd rpt - 07/Sep/12 with James Nelson, George Evans

jamesn89 - 2nd O/S - 07/Sep/12 with alex p, george e

led, with Mark
alidixon - 05/Sep/12

Phil Belcher - 2nd O/S - 01/Sep/12 with Rich

Great HVS climb, did'nt know I still had it in me, plenty of gear and excellent positions, not much polish either - looked like not too many people still climb this, easier than Bonbogies ( or maybe I was more tired by then)
valuks1 - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/12

nice steep and well protected climbing on big holds. abbing off before the slab is advised unless you want to fight through the bushes and brambles at the top to get to the fence!
James S - Lead O/S - 20/Aug/12 with jamie

zcsharp - 2nd - 20/Aug/12 with James S

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jul/12

mikeyg - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/12 with Will Twigger

Tim M - 2nd rpt - 17/Jun/12 with Emma

climbergg - Lead - 17/Jun/12 with cheesesarnie

Surprised I hadn't done this already. Harder than the other one, and better too.
thomasadixon - 2nd O/S - 23/May/12 with Becca

V. good. Felt hard for HVS.
BeccaSnowden - Lead O/S - 23/May/12 with Tom

Hidden - Lead - 19/May/12

steveprice.exmouth - 2nd - 18/May/12 with David Coley

Thought this was quite full-on for HVS, but still a fair grade. Started a bit lower than the description suggests, and climbed a steep wall up to the ledge. By the loose flakes and lack of polish, I don't think it's climbed all that often
Nick Russell - Lead O/S - 06/May/12 with Katherine

I found this quite hard and steep. Got pumped at the 1st overhang and had to sit on the rope before getting it on the second attempt.
Katherine Ross - 2nd dog - 06/May/12 with Nick Russell

Really nice climbing. Nice moves which rely on footwork.
Monk - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Luke Vincent

Seconded, lovely climbing.
pffft - 2nd O/S - 08/Apr/12 with Monkey

Slick - 2nd - 28/Mar/12 with Kevin Vans-Colina

down climbed after running out of steam. Not a good choice of route to test my level after 5 months off climbing at this level.
Dave Ing - Lead dnf - 10/Mar/12 with Peter

jiggerypokery - Lead O/S - 16/Jan/12 with Jack Folland

Jack_F - Lead O/S - 16/Jan/12

quite sustained - but lovely climb - polish ok
evhall - Lead rpt - 07/Jan/12 with colin

Nice route.
eduardo - Lead O/S - 15/Oct/11 with Roger F, Paul Hennelly

Easy climbing (one tricky move), very run out for an HVS.
Paul D Jones - Lead - 07/Oct/11

Another fab Avon classic. Thought this was easier than the corpse. Only one puzzle about half height where the holds seem to run out. Just step left!
ruaidh - Lead O/S - 06/Aug/11 with Tim, Zoe

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead β - 23/Jul/11 with GF

nice route - quite an impressive climb. The gear is pretty good - if you have the energy to place it. The only downside of the route is the hairy scramble up to it which takes a long time!
hms - Lead O/S - 01/Jul/11 with Jenny

tommytuffa - Lead O/S - 14/Jun/11 with andy

catemuir - 2nd - 09/Jun/11 with Alex Pattison

aipattison - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/11 with Cate Muir

mandy - 2nd - Jun/11 with tom

Felt hard - was it me runnig out of steam at the the end of the day? Didn't seem to be able to get many good rests, felt pumped on afew ocassions
gilbert - 2nd O/S - 22/May/11 with Jonathan Percival

Amazing route. I recommend being fairly confident on HVS before doing it though as the route reading can be difficult in places as well as the protection being fairly dubious and the climb very intimidating. Probably didn't help with the fact that it was incredibly windy and quite cold making it feel even more tenuous on the crux.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 22/May/11 with Rob Stanfield

Really great route. Nice job jack, considering the strong wind!
Stanners - 2nd O/S - 22/May/11 with Jack Bradbrook

Hidden - Lead - 15/May/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 08/May/11

gripped01 - Lead - May/11 with Gilbert

Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/11 with Gary Lewin

andy dunn - 2nd - 10/Apr/11 with Tom

Hidden - Lead O/S - 16/Feb/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 16/Feb/11

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 24/Jan/11

Brilliant, had forgotten how good a route this is! Difficulties are sustained, but its fairly well protected all the way - ran out of quickdraws and had to clip gear with just krabs, which meant a lot of rope drag on a single.
Clay C - Lead rpt - 24/Jan/11 with Harry A

alasdair19 - 2011

bpmclimb - Lead O/S - 26/Sep/10 with Clare

Great line and some typical Avon climbing - fairly spaced gear - rusty pegs (though most got backed up with a decent nut) - better than The Corpse, and a little harder IMO.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/10 with Rob U, Alan

Was dark when I started climbing, found overhang hard as went off route to the right and couldn't see the holds. Other than that a nice climb
bobumf - 2nd dog - 06/Jul/10 with Andy dunn, Alan Howells

Slick - 2nd - 05/Jul/10 with Kevin Vans-Colina

Felt hard, but probably due to lack of practice
simonf - Lead O/S - 04/May/10 with Simon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Apr/10

Clay C - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/10 with Eleri

Good route. Tricky for HVS.
Chubbard - Lead O/S - 18/Oct/09 with J Robinson

JimR - 18/Oct/09

ian d f - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/09

Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 30/May/09 with GF

Dr Caterpillar - Lead O/S - 29/Apr/09 with Alex Malins

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Apr/09

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 29/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead - 24/Feb/09

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 03/Jan/09

Kenemo - 2009

Hidden - AltLd - Dec/08

Alistair led, First serious HVS, took a swing! climbing too fast again.
PaulWatson - 2nd dog - 15/Aug/08 with Alistair, Rosy

lizannday - 2nd - Aug/08 with Dave6

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 30/May/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/May/08

Hidden - 2nd dog - 24/May/08

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 19/May/08 with jacquie robinson

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 06/May/08

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - May/08 with Rich Millea

Hidden - Lead rpt - 16/Apr/08

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - Feb/08 with Alex

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Andy had an epic and didn't finish
Al Franks - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/07 with Andy Hayes

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/07 with Andy Hayes

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/07

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Sep/07

tom.e - Lead rpt - 01/Sep/07 with Charlie Everett

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Jun/07

Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 26/May/07 with douglas

Marti999 - Mar/07 with Mark Glaister

gimmer - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/06

Greg Pittam - 2nd - Jun/06 with Emma Ross

HArd lead!
mike kann - Lead O/S - 2006 with Rob Scheicl

John Lisle - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jun/05

al99 - 2nd RP - May/05 with Luke Thomas

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2005

IceMonkey1982 - 2005

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Jul/04 with David Elder

furry - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Neil

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/04

tom.e - Lead O/S - 2004 with Charlie Everett

Very hot!!
chris sm - Lead O/S - 2004 with Pippa Froggatt

simon kimber - Lead O/S - Nov/03

Paz - 2nd β - May/03 with TS

solo
Jason Gotel - TR - Jul/02

Boxy - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/02 with Mick

Jim Brooke - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/00 with Chris Gudgeon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/00

Hidden - 2000

colin milton - Lead - 29/Aug/95 with eric milton

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

DavidR - 2nd - 1995 with John Marston and Nathan Rippin

mikej - 2nd - 28/Sep/94 with Nick Salmon

Hidden - 1994

Hidden - Lead - 21/Dec/88

Nigel Coe - 26/Nov/88 with Mike Scott, Tim Dunsby

unknown leader!
BigHairyIan - 2nd O/S - 05/Apr/88

AndyB123 - AltLd O/S - 1988 with Andy E

Hidden - Lead - 01/Nov/87

Moses - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/87

surfbish - Lead - Apr/87

eroica64 - 2nd - 17/Nov/85 with John Graeme

My first use of chalk.
mikej - Lead - 22/Sep/85 with Mike Byles

Richard Weller - 18/May/85 with Julian Sampson

been previously rained off a lead attempt. Also been up it with Gareth, Phil, etc
JamieAyres - 2nd rpt - Feb/85 with Peter Rickard

sadams - Lead - 30/Sep/84 with Allen Aylesbury CC

Pete Nugent - Lead - 30/Sep/84 with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1984 with Emily

Lead in July 81
stp - Solo rpt - 26/Aug/83

andy gittins - 1983

tapley - Lead - 06/Jun/82 with Tony Charles

Nigel Coe - 14/Mar/82 with Tim Dunsby

babymoac - 2nd - 14/Feb/82 with Dave Salter

John Marsland - Lead - 1982 with Dave Nicholson (HMC)

AlanLittle - Lead - 1982

mark-abz - Lead - 16/Jun/81 with Pete C

leland stamper - 2nd O/S - May/81 with Simon F&T

Hidden - 1981

Brian Wilderspin - AltLd - 27/Oct/80 with Kev Howett

peterbeaumont - 1980

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 1980

Hidden - Lead - 1980

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/79

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 15/Oct/78 with Gerry Dunford

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1978 with Chris Newton, Karen Ghiselli

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Sep/77

Falko - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/76 with Alan Taylor, Chris Plant

Marcus - 25/Jan/76 with Roger Stokes

Andy Chubb - Lead - 1976 with Pete Coghill

Steve Woollard - Lead O/S - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, alexanderjwatts, poey50

Voting
Total votes cast 105
hard E10 of 37
E10 of 37
easy E10 of 37
hard HVS12 of 37
HVS23 of 37
easy HVS2 of 37
hard VS0 of 37
VS0 of 37
easy VS0 of 37
hard 5b0 of 36
5b0 of 36
easy 5b0 of 36
hard 5a3 of 36
5a32 of 36
easy 5a1 of 36
hard 4c0 of 36
4c0 of 36
easy 4c0 of 36
3 Stars2 of 32
2 Stars28 of 32
1 Star2 of 32
0 Stars0 of 32
Bag of .....0 of 32
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Style of ascent

Soloed1 of 183 (0.5%)
Lead99 of 183 (54.1%)
Followed58 of 183 (31.7%)
Toproped1 of 183 (0.5%)
Alt Leads6 of 183 (3.3%)
Unknown18 of 183 (9.8%)

'Climbed'65 of 183 (35.5%)
clean O/S91 of 183 (49.7%)
clean β2 of 183 (1.1%)
clean rpt19 of 183 (10.4%)
clean RP1 of 183 (0.5%)
dogged4 of 183 (2.2%)
dnf1 of 183 (0.5%)