Rockfax Description
An Avon favourite, featuring fine climbing, protection and positions. Start on a belay ledge up and right from the larger belay ledge at the base of The Corpse.
Step up to a smaller ledge on the right. Follow the line of weakness left of the blunt right-hand arete to a peg underneath a shattered overhang, and pull over the overhang with care. Move up to another small overhang and move left past a peg, and then up and back right towards the arete. Take the thin crack to a final overlap and move left and up the final slab. Various tree belays. Walk off or abseil from the trees. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An Avon favourite, featuring fine climbing, protection and positions. Start on a belay ledge up and right from the larger belay ledge at the base of The Corpse.

Step up to a smaller ledge on the right. Follow the line of weakness left of the blunt right-hand arete to a peg underneath a shattered overhang, and pull over the overhang with care. Move up to another small overhang and move left past a peg, and then up and back right towards the arete. Take the thin crack to a final overlap and move left and up the final slab. Various tree belays. Walk off or abseil from the trees.

B Annette, M Thompson (1 pt aid) 1961

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist.

danieleaston 09/Sep Lead

Awesome. Clean except for a cheeky rest on a sling before the move left. Very pleased nonetheless.

with Steve
Steve Bartle 09/Sep 2nd dog

I found this pretty tough compared to other HVS I've done on the gorge. A couple of stuck pieces of gear meant that I got really pumped and had to hang on the rope to try and get them out. That aside, sustained climbing throughout. Be careful with the initial scramble up if there's been any rain in the last few days, it will be slippery

steve_gibbs 30/Jun Lead rpt
with Pauline Picchio
alastairbegley 31/May 2nd rpt
with Jason
Hidden 31/May Lead O/S
Hidden 16/May 2nd RP
Alex Winter 10/May Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this, good route. Main Wall was packed.

with Ieuan
Nick Russell 04/May Lead rpt

Typical Avon climbing, made me think in places. Most of the pegs (and there's a lot of them) seem decent at the moment.

with Emily
Emily 04/May 2nd O/S

This was really hard - awkward, holds impossible to find. I spent ages stuck at one section and the rest of it wasn't exactly smooth going. Amazed I made it up without falling off - a very close thing.

with Nick
Hidden 25/Apr Lead O/S
thom_jenkinson 24/Apr Lead O/S

Steady, balancey climbing. Lots of gear. Mega fun.

with Rebs
Rebs 24/Apr 2nd O/S
Slick 15/Apr Lead

Felt harder this year!

Hidden 15/Mar Lead
Luxulyan 14/Mar Lead O/S
with Tim
tim.fairhall 14/Mar 2nd O/S
with Richard
mike lawrence? 06/Mar Lead
with FatRob
felixizzy 27/Feb Lead O/S
with Caleb
Kemics 27/Feb 2nd rpt
with Felix
Stuart William 06/Dec/14 2nd β
with Martin
martinlevya82 19/Nov/14 Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 02/Oct/14 Lead O/S
Kevster 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Josh Leak
sheelba 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Climbed while ill, not a great idea but I got to the top

twem 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S
alastairbegley 24/Aug/14 2nd rpt
Dino Dave 10/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden 06/Jul/14 2nd
jon_ridley 21/May/14 2nd O/S
squicky 15/May/14 2nd O/S

Really nice route. There is a foothold early on that is very polished; luckily didn't slip off on it.

with PeteM
Slick 14/May/14 Lead
Phil Murray 18/Apr/14 2nd rpt

In shade - felt a bit cold & tricky!

with Ian Law
Luke Davies 17/Mar/14 Lead
Andrew Sloan 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S
tonevert ??/2014 Lead O/S
with Kevin Faux
kenneM 12/Nov/13 2nd
with Mike Dudley
pheotleyr 02/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Excellent! Lots of 5a climbing, some of it felt quite hard, gear not overly great on the lower third, so felt very much upper end HVS. A bit of rain at the start and strong winds towards the top added to the interest.

with Mike
Mayaculpa 02/Nov/13 2nd

Fine route. Dodged the showers and blustery weather. Zig Zagging round the overhang was fun. Only saw one Avon Shrimp !

with Peter
Hawkgirl ?/Nov/13 Lead O/S

slightly scary, but ticked!

with (mad) maxwell benzie
Hidden 18/Oct/13 2nd O/S
Matt_L_Robinson 18/Oct/13 Lead O/S
saraguti 29/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with rick sewards
Hidden 01/Sep/13 Lead rpt
zcsharp 24/Jul/13 Lead rpt

Very good climbing throughout, though I thought it was sustained difficulty throughout the climb.

steve_gibbs 24/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Anthony Dixon 05/Jun/13 Lead O/S
AlexD 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with Ed
Ed Babs 06/May/13 2nd O/S
with AlexD
alastairbegley 24/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Cheese Monkey 18/Apr/13 Lead O/S

Excellent. Not particularly run out? Sustained 4c/5a moves, well good

with Oli
crossdressingrodney 18/Apr/13 2nd O/S
with Ben
HarryB 15/Feb/13 Lead O/S
with Jack, Alex Tibbs
abtibbs 15/Feb/13 2nd O/S
with Jack Verber, Harry Bloxham
alastairbegley 06/Jan/13 Lead O/S
Neil Morbey 06/Jan/13 AltLd
with Alastair
jcw ??/2013 -
Kemics 18/Nov/12 Lead O/S

First half is crap. Loose rock, poor and fiddly protection. The second half the quality of rock and protection increases and makes it a worth while route. Lots of avon shrimps!

Stone Muppet 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S

And then Jason and Ami got benighted on Bonbogies

with md
Hidden 27/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 06/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Ragingpossum 06/Oct/12 2nd
masa-alpin 30/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Big runout in a section of series of 5b moves on fairly loose rocks, followed by a 5c crux with 10 metres of fall potential (I negotiated the crux overhang from the left)... At least E2. Did we climb the right route...? Not sure.

with Jamie R, Simon Da
aipattison 07/Sep/12 2nd rpt
with James Nelson, George Evans
jamesn89 07/Sep/12 2nd O/S
alidixon 05/Sep/12 -

led, with Mark

Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
valuks1 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Great HVS climb, did'nt know I still had it in me, plenty of gear and excellent positions, not much polish either - looked like not too many people still climb this, easier than Bonbogies ( or maybe I was more tired by then)

James S 20/Aug/12 Lead O/S

nice steep and well protected climbing on big holds. abbing off before the slab is advised unless you want to fight through the bushes and brambles at the top to get to the fence!

with jamie
zcsharp 20/Aug/12 2nd
with James S
Hidden 21/Jul/12 2nd
mikeyg 24/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Tim M 17/Jun/12 2nd rpt
with Emma
climbergg 17/Jun/12 Lead
thomasadixon 23/May/12 2nd O/S

Surprised I hadn't done this already. Harder than the other one, and better too.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 23/May/12 Lead O/S

V. good. Felt hard for HVS.

with Tom
Hidden 19/May/12 Lead
steveprice.exmouth 18/May/12 2nd
with David Coley
Nick Russell 06/May/12 Lead O/S

Thought this was quite full-on for HVS, but still a fair grade. Started a bit lower than the description suggests, and climbed a steep wall up to the ledge. By the loose flakes and lack of polish, I don't think it's climbed all that often

with Katherine
Katherine Ross 06/May/12 2nd dog

I found this quite hard and steep. Got pumped at the 1st overhang and had to sit on the rope before getting it on the second attempt.

Hidden ?/May/12 Lead O/S
Monk 08/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Really nice climbing. Nice moves which rely on footwork.

with Luke Vincent
pffft 08/Apr/12 2nd O/S

Seconded, lovely climbing.

with Monkey
Slick 28/Mar/12 2nd
Dave Ing 10/Mar/12 Lead dnf

down climbed after running out of steam. Not a good choice of route to test my level after 5 months off climbing at this level.

with Peter
jiggerypokery 16/Jan/12 Lead O/S
with Jack Folland
Jack_F 16/Jan/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jan/12 Lead rpt
eduardo 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S

Nice route.

with Roger F, Paul Hennelly
Paul D Jones 07/Oct/11 Lead

Easy climbing (one tricky move), very run out for an HVS.

ruaidh 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Another fab Avon classic. Thought this was easier than the corpse. Only one puzzle about half height where the holds seem to run out. Just step left!

with Tim, Zoe
Jessie Rushbrooke 23/Jul/11 Lead β
with GF
Hidden 01/Jul/11 Lead O/S
tommytuffa 14/Jun/11 Lead O/S
with andy
catemuir 09/Jun/11 2nd
aipattison 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
mandy ?/Jun/11 2nd
with tom
gilbert 22/May/11 2nd O/S

Felt hard - was it me runnig out of steam at the the end of the day? Didn't seem to be able to get many good rests, felt pumped on afew ocassions

with Jonathan Percival
Quarryboy 22/May/11 Lead O/S

Amazing route. I recommend being fairly confident on HVS before doing it though as the route reading can be difficult in places as well as the protection being fairly dubious and the climb very intimidating. Probably didn't help with the fact that it was incredibly windy and quite cold making it feel even more tenuous on the crux.

Stanners 22/May/11 2nd O/S

Really great route. Nice job jack, considering the strong wind!

Hidden 15/May/11 Lead
Hidden 08/May/11 2nd O/S
gripped01 ?/May/11 Lead
with Gilbert
Chris Sansum 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Gary Lewin
andy dunn 10/Apr/11 2nd
with Tom
Hidden 16/Feb/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Feb/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jan/11 2nd rpt
Clay C 24/Jan/11 Lead rpt

Brilliant, had forgotten how good a route this is! Difficulties are sustained, but its fairly well protected all the way - ran out of quickdraws and had to clip gear with just krabs, which meant a lot of rope drag on a single.

with Harry A
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
bpmclimb 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Clare
andy dunn 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Great line and some typical Avon climbing - fairly spaced gear - rusty pegs (though most got backed up with a decent nut) - better than The Corpse, and a little harder IMO.

with Rob U, Alan
bobumf 06/Jul/10 2nd dog

Was dark when I started climbing, found overhang hard as went off route to the right and couldn't see the holds. Other than that a nice climb

with Andy dunn, Alan Howells
Slick 05/Jul/10 2nd
simonf 04/May/10 Lead O/S

Felt hard, but probably due to lack of practice

with Simon
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Clay C 18/Apr/10 2nd O/S
with Eleri
Chubbard 18/Oct/09 Lead O/S

Good route. Tricky for HVS.

JimR 18/Oct/09 -
ian d f 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Jessie Rushbrooke 30/May/09 2nd
with GF
Dr Caterpillar 29/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Hidden 29/Apr/09 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/Feb/09 Lead
Hidden 03/Jan/09 2nd O/S
Kenemo ??/2009 -
Hidden ?/Dec/08 AltLd
PaulWatson 15/Aug/08 2nd dog

Alistair led, First serious HVS, took a swing! climbing too fast again.

with Alistair, Rosy
lizannday ?/Aug/08 2nd
with Dave6
Hidden 30/May/08 2nd rpt
Hidden 24/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/May/08 2nd dog
dan gibson 19/May/08 Lead O/S
with jacquie robinson
Hidden 06/May/08 2nd O/S
_m.cox_ ?/May/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 16/Apr/08 Lead rpt
georgeevans88 ?/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Alex
Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
Al Franks 15/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Andy had an epic and didn't finish

with Andy Hayes
Alasdair88 15/Nov/07 Lead O/S
with Andy Hayes
Hidden 12/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/07 2nd O/S
tom.e 01/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Charlie Everett
Hidden 10/Jun/07 2nd
Bristoldave 26/May/07 Lead O/S
with douglas
Marti999 ?/Mar/07 -
gimmer ??/2007 -
Hidden 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/06 Lead O/S
Greg Pittam ?/Jun/06 2nd
with Emma Ross
beardy mike ??/2006 Lead O/S

HArd lead!

with Rob Scheicl
John Lisle ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Jun/05 Lead O/S
al99 ?/May/05 2nd RP
with Luke Thomas
Hidden ??/2005 Lead O/S
IceMonkey1982 ??/2005 -
Urgles ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with David Elder
furry ?/Jun/04 Lead O/S
with Neil
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead O/S
tom.e ??/2004 Lead O/S
with Charlie Everett
chris sm ??/2004 Lead O/S

Very hot!!

with Pippa Froggatt
simon kimber ?/Nov/03 Lead O/S
Paz ?/May/03 2nd β
with TS
Jason Gotel ?/Jul/02 TR


Boxy 15/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Mick
Jim Brooke 04/Sep/00 Lead O/S
with Chris Gudgeon
Hidden 01/Aug/00 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden 06/Nov/99 Lead
colin milton 29/Aug/95 Lead
with eric milton
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
DavidR ??/1995 2nd
with John Marston and Nathan Rippin
mikej 28/Sep/94 2nd
with Nick Salmon
Hidden ??/1994 -
Hidden 21/Dec/88 Lead
Nigel Coe 26/Nov/88 -
with Mike Scott, Tim Dunsby
BigHairyIan 05/Apr/88 2nd O/S

unknown leader!

AndyB123 ??/1988 AltLd O/S
with Andy E
Hidden 01/Nov/87 Lead
Moses 18/Aug/87 Lead O/S
surfbish ?/Apr/87 Lead
eroica64 17/Nov/85 2nd
with John Graeme
mikej 22/Sep/85 Lead

My first use of chalk.

with Mike Byles
Richard Weller 18/May/85 -
with Julian Sampson
JamieAyres ?/Feb/85 2nd rpt

been previously rained off a lead attempt. Also been up it with Gareth, Phil, etc

with Peter Rickard
sadams 30/Sep/84 Lead
with Allen Aylesbury CC
Pete Nugent 30/Sep/84 Lead
with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)
William Robertson ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Emily
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
stp 26/Aug/83 Solo rpt

Lead in July 81

andy gittins ??/1983 -
tapley 06/Jun/82 Lead
with Tony Charles
Nigel Coe 14/Mar/82 -
with Tim Dunsby
babymoac 14/Feb/82 2nd
with Dave Salter
John Marsland ??/1982 Lead
with Dave Nicholson (HMC)
AlanLittle ??/1982 Lead
mark-abz 16/Jun/81 Lead
with Pete C
leland stamper ?/May/81 2nd O/S
with Simon F&T
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1981 -
Brian Wilderspin 27/Oct/80 AltLd
with Kev Howett
peterbeaumont ??/1980 -
charlesmfrench ??/1980 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1980 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/79 Lead O/S
Ken Taylor 15/Oct/78 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
Ian Jones ??/1978 Lead O/S
with Chris Newton, Karen Ghiselli
Hidden ?/Sep/77 2nd O/S
Falko 11/Apr/76 Lead O/S
with Alan Taylor, Chris Plant
steve L 27/Jan/76 2nd
with Morty
Marcus 25/Jan/76 -
with Roger Stokes
Andy Chubb ??/1976 Lead
with Pete Coghill
Hidden ??/1973 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Richardlake, JoeE, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, alexanderjwatts, poey50
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 42
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set