Rockfax Description
A well-travelled and testing pitch that wanders up to, and past the left side of the prominent triple pointed overhang midway up the crag. Start at a narrow ledge and stunted tree directly below the triple pointed overhang.
Move leftwards for 4m and then climb up to the left end of an 'eyebrow' overhang, large cams. Pull up its left side to a small ledge and then stride right above the overhang into a corner that is bridged to the left side of the triple pointed overhang, peg. Pull over the overhang and follow the slab to the base of a stepped white rib on the left. Follow the rib to a tree belay. Scramble to the top and walk off or abseil. © Rockfax

M Rhodes, P Ford 1957

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
naylers 20/Sep 2nd
No? Yes! 09/Sep Lead

Enjoyable - a lot to savour ! ( Why would others even attempt the scramble - currently fine anchor )

with John the Dec
Hidden 06/Sep Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 24/Aug 2nd rpt
with Max Coney
Legs 24/Aug Lead β
with Steve
Hidden 11/Aug Lead O/S
danieleaston 10/Aug Lead O/S

Hard balancey moves while quite runout. Good though

with Steve
Steve Bartle 10/Aug 2nd O/S

A good test of footwork and nerve. Watch out for one or two very polished footholds at the main overhang

Angrypenguin 09/Aug Lead O/S

A good route, HVS seems fair. However, when the guidebook says ab or scramble off, only one of these is a real thing. "A scramble" turned into 20 meters through very dense vegetation, the most unpleasant climbing experience I have yet had.

with Eleanor
EC 09/Aug -

As Pete said. Covered in bramble scratches. Top-out scramble was awful - crawling under roots and through thickets of thorns. Very claustrophobic & not nice (and I am a caver!)

with Pete
youwillfindjimbo 04/Aug Lead O/S
Big_T 04/Aug 2nd O/S
Rob Morgan 23/Jun Lead
with Max
Legs 23/Jun 2nd O/S
Moritz L 30/May 2nd O/S

Very nice climbing, with a fairly loose big beneath he big overhand directly above the belay.

Dan0Me 30/May Lead O/S
steve_gibbs 04/May Lead rpt
with Alex Rhodes
Alex_RhodesUK 04/May 2nd O/S
Circus 18/Mar Lead O/S
with Kev
James S 02/Feb Lead rpt

I'll never get bored of this one. Best HVS on main wall for me!

with melty
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
cheeky 01/Dec/15 Lead O/S
Graham Westbrook 01/Dec/15 2nd
Pohil 26/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with SP
sheelba 15/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Delightful sustained climbing

andy dunn 10/Apr/15 2nd
with Tom, J
Luxulyan 14/Mar/15 2nd
with Tim
tim.fairhall 14/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Richard
Stuart William 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Martin
Hidden 24/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Kevster 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Thoughtful climbing

with Josh Leak
Hidden 06/Jul/14 2nd
Hidden 19/Jun/14 2nd O/S
LucasHarazin 19/Jun/14 Lead O/S
George Frisby 11/Jun/14 2nd O/S
steve_gibbs 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
jon_ridley 16/May/14 Lead O/S

super steady

Slick 14/May/14 2nd
Andrew Sloan 22/Feb/14 Lead O/S

A few awkward moves and middle section below main overhang damp.

Hidden 19/Oct/13 Lead O/S
Matt_L_Robinson 19/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 17/Oct/13 2nd
pheotleyr 17/Oct/13 Lead RP
with Mike
sjbrook 01/Aug/13 2nd O/S

Found my head wasn't in the right place, climbing no too tough but felt bold, even on second.

with Jamie
zcsharp 01/Aug/13 Lead rpt
with Sam
ruaidh 17/Jul/13 2nd

Ben says "a jolly jaunt up the wall"

with Ben
halfwaythere 25/May/13 2nd
with george
georgeevans88 25/May/13 Lead O/S
AlexD 06/May/13 2nd
with Ed
Ed Babs 06/May/13 Lead O/S
with AlexD
alastairbegley 24/Apr/13 Lead O/S
pheotleyr 17/Apr/13 2nd β

Very nice.

with James
James S 17/Apr/13 Lead rpt
with peter
Nick Russell 05/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Fun climbing, quite technical but not unfair for HVS. A few wet patches spiced things up.

Alex Winter 05/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Nick and Jamie
zcsharp 05/Mar/13 2nd
Cheese Monkey 01/Mar/13 Lead O/S

Excellent engaging climbing the whole way. Wish it hadnt been plastered in chalk by the previous party though. Bomber gear where you need it. Crux for me was the wet groove below the 2nd overhang, cut down on foothold options somewhat. Probably high end HVS, harder than Malbogies I thought?

with Goss
jcw ??/2013 -
thomasadixon 30/Oct/12 2nd O/S

Tough at HVS and the tricky move looked very bold - with or without large cams.

with Becca
BeccaSnowden 30/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Hard for the grade. Bold.

with Tom
Becky H 20/Sep/12 2nd O/S
with Harry Bloxham
HarryB 19/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Becky
James S 15/Sep/12 Lead O/S

really nice stress free climbing. decent protection at regular intervals and no stopper moves, just quite balancy in places. got attacked by wasps on the way down when i abbed through a nest!

with caleb
Kemics 15/Sep/12 2nd O/S

Very balancey and delicate climbing. Better than Malbogies?

with James S
georgeevans88 06/Sep/12 2nd O/S
aipattison 06/Sep/12 Lead rpt
georgeevans88 28/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with James N
jamesn89 28/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/12 2nd
richiebongo 11/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
mandy 28/Jun/12 Lead

tough

with dan
Stanners 17/May/12 2nd O/S

Found this very much upper end for the grade. A thorough warm-up though! Nice one James.

with James Rich, Jack Bradbrook
JamesRich 17/May/12 Lead O/S

Found the crux both bold and technical however it would have been better protected if I had taken some micros and some smaller cams.

Quarryboy 17/May/12 2nd O/S

Just goes to show that even on a bold HVS hexes can sometimes be of use.

Slick 28/Mar/12 Lead

First proper HGV of the season - felt harder than it used to!

jezb1 22/Jan/12 2nd

Quite a good route. Requires some concentration on a couple of sections.

The Ivanator 22/Jan/12 Lead rpt
with Jez
The Ivanator 27/Nov/11 2nd O/S

Decent gear, never too strenuous, but makes you think most of the way. Neat feet the answer, nice route and not as polished as I expected. Amazing day for late November, the team across from us were climbing in shorts! Arranging a solid belay at the start isn't easy, cracks either side of a scarily mobile block, or dicey scrambling up to a decent cam slot that can be extended were the options, I heard there used to be a reasonable tree.

with Stewart
Alan100 30/Oct/11 Lead

Good moves that focus on footwork

cem 21/Aug/11 2nd
Hidden 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
catemuir 09/Jun/11 2nd
aipattison 09/Jun/11 Lead O/S
jas128 09/Jun/11 2nd β
msoldn 08/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Rory
Slick 01/Jun/11 2nd
Dale ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S

Johny decided to lead this it was write on the top of his grade, he found it hard didn't want to commit to step across after frist overhang. So he came down and I took over to be fair thought it was hard for HVS not sure if it cause I wasn't used to the climbing first time climbing here this year. The step across easy 5b and the levatate threw second overhang hard 5b need good footwork. Brill route. After all that it was so hot really hot we decided to run off and find shade

with johny
ruaidh 19/May/11 Lead O/S

Cool route. Almost gave this two stars. A few delicate moves, couple of airy steps, but nothing too strenuous. Abbed off on 46m of rope - just about made it to the belay ledge.

martinazando 19/May/11 2nd O/S
with ruaidh
Hidden 14/May/11 Lead O/S
Lev 14/May/11 2nd O/S
Rob Exile Ward 17/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Great route, I thought the move past the top overhang quite trying tbh.

with Sam Ward
31770 ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
_m.cox_ ?/Oct/10 Lead O/S
TDembrey 21/Sep/10 2nd O/S
with Clay
Clay C 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Todd
Hidden 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S
benjaminevans 26/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Big Gay Jord
Slick 05/Jul/10 Lead
andy dunn 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Alan
Hidden 28/May/10 Lead O/S
67hours 28/May/10 2nd
with Eleri
31770 13/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Jesse Dufton
Hidden 02/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Oct/08 2nd O/S
Mark Davies 22/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Brian (bpm climb)
bpmclimb 22/Aug/08 2nd O/S
with Mark
Al Franks 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Emily Reynolds
Alasdair88 16/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with Emily Reynolds
Hidden 07/Oct/07 Lead O/S
Bristoldave 06/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with Joe
Hidden 04/Sep/07 Lead β
Hidden 12/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Marti999 ?/Mar/07 -
Fat Tim 16/Jul/05 Lead O/S
al99 ?/Feb/05 Lead O/S
with Jeremy king
tom.e ??/2005 Lead O/S
IceMonkey1982 ??/2005 -
Hidden ?/May/04 Lead
Paz ?/May/03 Lead O/S
with TS
Jason Gotel ?/Aug/02 TR
MikeC59 23/Jun/02 2nd
Boxy 16/Jun/02 Lead O/S
with Mick
alan moore ??/2000 -

Hot ice. Scary.

colin milton 28/Aug/95 2nd
with eric milton
chris sm 22/Jun/95 Lead O/S
mikej 16/Apr/95 Lead
with Nick Salmon
lowersharpnose 01/Jan/95 Lead
Hidden ??/1994 -
AndyB123 ??/1988 AltLd
with Andy E
surfbish ?/Apr/87 Lead
Hidden 15/Jun/86 Lead
sadams 05/May/86 2nd
with Mark Bonham
JamieAyres ?/Aug/85 Lead rpt

Nige fell off this in about '83 - first visit to the Gorge.. had struggled 2nd-ing this with Phil in '84 & earlier in '85.

with Peter Rickard
Pete Nugent 05/May/85 Lead

HVS,5a**at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)

with Ian Makin
Hidden ??/1984 Lead
Nigel Bond 10/Oct/82 AltLd
with Charlie Leverton
The Reaper 04/Sep/82 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/82 Solo O/S
stp 25/Mar/82 Solo rpt

Lead in May 81

mark-abz 15/Feb/82 Lead
with Andy W
AlanLittle ??/1982 Lead
Nigel Coe 28/Jun/81 -
with John Walmsley
Chris Terrey 15/Feb/81 AltLd
with Mike O'Brien
Steve Bell ??/1981 -
charlesmfrench ??/1981 2nd O/S
Paul Clarke ??/1981 -
Brian Wilderspin 29/Nov/80 2nd
with Walter Phipps
tapley 07/Sep/80 Lead
with Alison Tapley
peterbeaumont ??/1980 -
Ken Taylor 15/Oct/78 AltLd
with Gerry Dunford
Hidden 10/Jul/77 2nd O/S
Steve Lewis 27/Jan/76 AltLd
with Morty
Andy Chubb ??/1976 AltLd
with Pete Coghill
Marcus 23/Nov/75 -
with Roger Stokes
Mark Kemball 19/Apr/75 2nd
with Dave "Hamish" Wilkinson
Steve Woollard ??/1973 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/70 Lead dnf
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
nathanjmasters, Angrypenguin, laurence_falconer, Hidden, Dan0Me, Hidden, Richardlake, JoeE, Hidden, Hidden, GeorgT, mullermn, Dr Caterpillar, Hidden
Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 43
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set