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3 March 2023 update: Peregrines and other seabirds are either prospecting or nesting on this crag.

A temporary ban has been put in place by the National Trust covering the area of cliff between Tubby Head and Bawden Cliff, so includes all of the major route locations up to and including the America Buttress. Once the exact locations of any nests have been identified, restrictions may be lifted.

from 03/03/0023

The wall is found to the left of the black walls facing out. From the parking locate the black walls from the coast path, from here a gully can be seen running down the slopes, the abseil stake can be found about 20 feet to the left of the gully near the bottom (facing out)60m ab rope required.

These routes climb a recently discovered wall. Both routes where climbed onsight trad style and subsequently deep water soloed a few days later. Both routes require a fair bit of effort to get to involving penduluming to stay in contact with the rock and hanging belays at the bottom as far down the wall as the sea permits. If your leading the routes take a low tide with as small swell. If you have a competent second its well worth getting them to abb in first with ropes flaked in a bag ready to go. If taken on as a solo great care is advised. The wall is remote the falls could be sizeable and the only way out is back up the rope. A 60m rope is required to reach the sea and your best to keep your harness on with shunting gear kept on harness or on the rope within reach from the water.

Cowabunga

from the ab gain the left hand fault line (bomber rock 7 for belay) Blast straight up the fault on great rock and positive holds. Take on a bulge near the top of the pitch and finish with care.

Andy Steinberg and Rich Pollard FSA Andy Steinberg 20/Jul/2013.

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Route of Interest
Astroslide

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Tintagel Head)

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