UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
An intimidating pitch featuring both delicate and strenuous climbing. Start at the peg and nut belay of Krapp's Last Tape.
Climb up rightwards past a peg and up a shallow corner to an overhang, pegs. Pull over the overhang at a tiny corner, 2 pegs, and continue to a bolt. Steep climbing through the overhangs above on reasonable holds gains a break and bolt above. Head up to a shallow depression with two bolts in its left wall and climb it to its end, from where moves left reach an abseil station. © Rockfax

C King (C Jones, F E Bennett at A2 on 12/Sep/1965 and with 1 aid pt by A Strapcans, R Harrison 1976) Jun/1978.

Ticklists

Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes , Trad climbs for sport climbers , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E4 ticklist , So you think your an Avon Climber? , South West in Extremis

Feedback

User Date Notes
Steve Claw 16 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Proceed with caution. The undercut flakes on the 2nd overhang (just after 1st bolt) are very hollow. Trundled a large microwave sized block here today, what remains is keyed in, but looking dodgy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Proceed with caution. The undercut flakes on the 2nd overhang (just after 1st bolt) are very hollow. Trundled a large microwave sized block here today, what remains is keyed in, but looking dodgy.

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High E5
Mid E5
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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 12
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Amanita Muscarina

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area))

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