Avon > Avon Gorge (Main Wall) >
 
Main Wall Eliminate** E4 6a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Baconconstrictor
 
White Not Pink >>
30m. An intimidating pitch featuring both delicate and strenuous climbing. Start at the peg and nut belay of Krapp's Last Tape. 28m. Climb up rightwards past a peg and up a shallow corner to an overhang, pegs. Pull over the overhang at a tiny corner, 2 pegs, and continue to a bolt. Steep climbing through the overhangs above on reasonable holds gains a break and bolt above. Head upwards to a shallow depression with two bolts in its left wall and climb it to its end, from where moves left reach an abseil station. © ROCKFAX
Climbs the wall right of Krapps Last Tape. From the initial belay ledge of KLT, climb up, peg, and right into a shallow groove, peg. Climb this to its end, peg, then pull right, peg, and make a series of hard slopey pulls,into another groove peg then bolt. Pull up to a good undercut (Friend 3.5) then left over the bulge to a rest, bolt. Move right and climb a difficult steep and slippery groove past two new resin bolts, then traverse left to a belay (which is in dire need of replacement)
C King (C Jones, F E Bennett at A2 on 12/Sep/1965 and with 1 aid pt by A Strapcans, R Harrison 1976) Jun/1978

Ticklists: Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 28 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

Brilliant climb - tough first roof then good yarding and a rest before the crux. Agree with whoever said harder than CW, safer after the start though.
thomasadixon - Lead O/S - 30/Oct/12 with Becca

BeccaSnowden - 2nd dog - 30/Oct/12 with Tom

i snapped off one of the pair of pegs at the top of the initial groove by hand! (can be backed up)
Billg - Lead O/S - 09/Jun/12 with Bob Brewer

Hidden - Lead β - 13/Jun/11

Foot popped off between two crux bolts, utterly battered after spending 2 hours getting that far lowered off bolts. Had been a long day already but felt pretty hard.
Justin T - Lead dnf - 30/Aug/10

Stunning climbing throughout. Only just managed to get though crux clean, foot holds thin and getting a bit polished. Staying left on second overlap appeared a lot easier.
msoldn - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/09 with Will

brilliant route
Rick hard Rock - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead dog - 2009

Hidden - Lead dnf - 31/Oct/07

Hidden - Lead dog - 12/Jun/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/04

Great climb. Good moves through the overhangs
KRB - Lead β - 28/Jul/02 with unseconded

Ally Smith - 2000

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/May/96

Hidden - 06/May/96

AndySL - 2nd O/S - 1996 with Tim

Roget - Lead O/S - 03/Apr/95 with jon

rockaddiction - Lead O/S - 1995

frank ramsay - Lead - 1989

keefe - 20/Aug/88

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/88

DDDD - 1988

rest point
shark - Lead - 15/May/87

Mike Owen - 16/Oct/84 with Simon King

Seconded before in April 82
stp - Lead rpt - 12/Sep/83

andy gittins - 1983

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/82

Hidden - 1981

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, dan ely, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 24
hard E50 of 8
E50 of 8
easy E50 of 8
hard E43 of 8
E45 of 8
easy E40 of 8
hard E30 of 8
E30 of 8
easy E30 of 8
hard 6b0 of 8
6b0 of 8
easy 6b0 of 8
hard 6a0 of 8
6a8 of 8
easy 6a0 of 8
hard 5c0 of 8
5c0 of 8
easy 5c0 of 8
3 Stars6 of 8
2 Stars2 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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Style of ascent

Lead18 of 28 (64.3%)
Followed3 of 28 (10.7%)
Unknown7 of 28 (25.0%)

'Climbed'9 of 28 (32.1%)
clean O/S11 of 28 (39.3%)
clean β2 of 28 (7.1%)
clean rpt1 of 28 (3.6%)
dogged3 of 28 (10.7%)
dnf2 of 28 (7.1%)