Avon > Avon Gorge (Main Wall) >
Malwhatsit** E1 5a

Adjacent Climbs
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Malbogies >>
[Tom Rogers on the second pitch of Malwhatsit, 2 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.
B Annette, P Bell 15/Mar/1964

Ticklists: Bristol 1st E1s.

Photo: Tom Rogers on the second pitch of Malwhatsit © www.climbpembroke.com
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This climb is in 28 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Started up Malbogies direct, followed by the two independent pitches of Malwhatsit. I led the traverse pitch. Thought the hardest bit was to find the proper route up to the break, but the climbing felt like solid HVS 5a. Very good and enjoyable! Last pitch is pretty runout, but only 4c climbing with lots of nice jugs.
pheotleyr - AltLd O/S - 10/Dec/13 with Michael

Led P1 &3. Direct finish at 5a. Didn't think it was E1, good route though.
aipattison - AltLd O/S - 07/May/13 with George Evans

Led P2 - didn't think the start was that bold. Reasonably well protected with high gear above malbogies stance. Traversed to far and had to climb back - belay not obvious!
georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 07/May/13 with Alex Pattison

P1 malbogies direct start. P2 my lead. Guidebook mentions 2 pegs, I have removed one with a very light tug! Then dropped a cam. Then removed a head size block with a tiny touch of my foot. Then partner dropped guide. Then I traversed about 10m too far. Avon at its best!
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 09/Apr/13 with Neil

Not E1. Except if you do the direct 5a finish. Maybe.
lewiz - Lead O/S - 31/Mar/12 with Kirsten Donovan

epic way to get into the Es, bit of swing on, or rather off, the first traverse!
kirsten - 2nd - 31/Mar/12 with lewis thompson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/11

Rick hard Rock - AltLd - 16/Jun/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/May/10

Life doesn't get much better than this. Watching the Lions wup South Africa followed by this very enjoyable climb in the warm evening sunshine. A great expedition at a very accessible grade.
KRB - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/09 with Chris Bridges

billb - AltLd O/S - May/09 with Mike S

Led P2 & 3
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 14/Sep/08 with Dave Culwick and Colin

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Sep/08

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 19/May/08 with jacquie robinson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Oct/07

Lev - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/07 with Emma Ross, Sam Howell

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 14/Apr/07

Not sure what blocky vegetation we went up at the top, possibly Malpractice.
Paz - AltLd O/S - Apr/03 with DJ

1st pitch same as Malbogies - HVS 5a then.
JamieAyres - AltLd O/S - Jul/85 with Peter Rickard

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/84

lead pitch 2
stp - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/83

John Marsland - AltLd - 21/Jun/83 with Guy Beaumont

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/82

Hidden - 1981

peterbeaumont - 1980

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 1977

Marcus - 13/Jul/75 with Pete Osborne

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Fred_Richard, Hidden, Hidden

Total votes cast 26
hard E20 of 9
E20 of 9
easy E20 of 9
hard E10 of 9
E13 of 9
easy E11 of 9
hard HVS4 of 9
HVS1 of 9
easy HVS0 of 9
hard 5b0 of 8
5b0 of 8
easy 5b0 of 8
hard 5a0 of 8
5a8 of 8
easy 5a0 of 8
hard 4c0 of 8
4c0 of 8
easy 4c0 of 8
3 Stars1 of 9
2 Stars7 of 9
1 Star1 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent

Lead4 of 28 (14.3%)
Followed4 of 28 (14.3%)
Alt Leads17 of 28 (60.7%)
Unknown3 of 28 (10.7%)

'Climbed'7 of 28 (25.0%)
clean O/S21 of 28 (75.0%)