Avon > Avon Gorge (Main Wall) >
 
Malbogies*** HVS 5a

Adjacent Climbs
<< Malwhatsit
 
The Thin Air >>
[Sue following the polish on Malbogies, 3 kb]Main Wall's most famous line is a fine climb that follows a subtle left-to-right line of weakness through an intimidating rockscape. A classic. Start on a grassy ledge at the base of the line.. 1) 5a, 25m. From the left-hand side of the ledge move boldly up a small corner in the blunt arete to double pegs (as for Central Wall). Traverse right, beneath a line of overhangs past a number of pegs to a ledge under a shattered looking wall. Climb up rightwards across the wall to a corner and take this to a peg and nut belay on a slab, 5m below the main line of overhangs.. 2) 4b, 32m. Climb up past a peg to the overhang and move over it on good holds. Move rightwards and up a broken rib before heading back leftwards under a line of overhangs until it is possible to gain the base of a wide depression. Climb up the middle of the depression, passing a peg, to an exit left at the very top. © ROCKFAX
C J S Bonington, G Francis, H H M Rogers 23/Oct/1957

Ticklists: Hard Rock, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Rockfax West Country top 50.

Photo: Sue following the polish on Malbogies © Kafoozalem
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 307 logbooks, and on 37 wishlists.

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 18/May/13 with Richard Snow

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/13 with ben darby

Excellent again, lead p2
Cheese Monkey - AltLd rpt - 26/Apr/13 with Tim

georgeevans88 - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/13 with Martin

I led the second pitch for the first time. I think I've finally learnt where the jug is above the roof!
Nick Russell - AltLd rpt - 20/Apr/13 with Steve

tommack - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/13 with J.Evans

I had the first pitch the start is pretty run out but no where near as polished as I expected. Tim had second pitch. Brilliant route another hard rock tick done
Dale - AltLd O/S - Apr/13 with Tim

Martin Bennett - Apr/13

Rich P1, Chris P2.
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 02/Mar/13 with Richard Lade

Fantastic, every single meter is good climbing! Led 2nd pitch which is not 4b as claimed in the description on UKC, but rather a solid 4c.
pheotleyr - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Ben

Absolutely excellent from start to finish
Cheese Monkey - AltLd O/S - 19/Feb/13 with Peter

p2, bottled p1
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13 with duncan

sparkass - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/13 with Stuart Inchly

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 13/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/12

Andy Fielding - Lead - 16/Sep/12 with Paul Wright

goddamm7 - 2nd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with andy fielding

First time climbing at the gorge. Justin led p1 (original start) and I led p2. First pitch was stressful at the start - local climbers advised us to not trust in situ pegs (recent stat - apparently 50% are dodgy??!?!), Justin couldn't find any protection for the first 4 metres and I was belaying from a small grassy ledge which Justin would have fallen past had he taken a lob. Made it through unscathed and pitch two was beautiful climbing - the enormous jug at the first overhang (which took me ages to locate!), exciting and exposed traverses followed by an easy-ish finish up the centre of the depression.
konanm - AltLd dog - 15/Sep/12

Awesome route initially we weren't all that comforted by the collection of flowers which we found at the bottom of it, nevertheless that didn't put us off. Did the direct start and found found that the crux which is just past the first cluster of runners felt pretty tricky and took me some time to work out. Once I got passed it I was somewhat worried about trebbers getting up it as well but trebs did sterling work as ever and pulled through. Although the weather had been good all day by the time I was half way up the second pitch it had begun to turn very grey and overcast luckily however it managed to just stay like that and not rain all the way to the top of the climb. Also we got a bit over excited on the belay ledge when we saw the freight train on the opposite side of the gorge transpiring an assortment of cars and vans.
Quarryboy - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/12 with Jack Treble

Really enjoyed this route, good moves, never too hard. Not as polished or bold as I was expecting.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/12 with Chris Gooder

Direct Start - Polished but kind of adds to the fun!
Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12 with Kelli Roberts

Had to do most of second pitch in the dark!!
kelliroberts3 - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/12

First pitch felt pretty bold but I that's probably just I hadn't climbed for a while. Not much call for gear as there are so many pegs. Jug on the second pitch was a bit of a stretch - glad i'm tall ;)
Alan100 - AltLd - 01/Sep/12

Mostly directionless shuffling.
richardr - AltLd - 18/Aug/12 with Bill

First pitch is fairly uncomfortable, and the rock and gear is not particularly inspiring! Hard for HVS! Top pitch is a lot better! How this is a classic i have no idea...
vertigo714 - Lead O/S - 11/Aug/12 with Tom Morgan

A lovely route, not as polished as i expected and the top pitch is fantastic.
Scotsken - 11/Aug/12 with Jamie Evans

Cailean Harker - 03/Aug/12

Mike led first, I finished it off
gb05 - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Mike Goldthorp, Cailean Harker

Interesting route, not as classic as I suspected, although maybe I just had high expections. Lead 1st pitch - quite shuffley climbing on rock which may well be solid but I couldnt help being a bit suspiciouse of it, although 2nd pitch had some great airy positions and lovely rock.
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/12 with Gaz, Cailean Harker

kenneM - Jul/12

led 2nd pitch. Had a bit of trouble with route finding, think I got it in the end. 2nd pitch didn't feel too soft. An interesting piece of history and nice enough route but top 50 rockfax!? Must have kept them chuckling for days...
Kemics - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/12 with Anthony

Anthony Dixon - AltLd - 27/Jun/12 with Caleb

i did pitch 1 with direct start,felt way more like E1 and to my surprise is E1 5b.chris led p2.
jon_gill1 - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/12 with chris Lyness

I led P1, Jason P2. Harder than I remember
Nick Russell - AltLd rpt - 13/May/12 with Jason

haydng - AltLd rpt - 08/Apr/12 with Dave

Freaked out a bit below the overhang when I couldn't find the hidden jug...
Nick Russell - Solo rpt - 10/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/12

Mark Warnett - AltLd O/S - Mar/12 with Princess Diana

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Feb/12

georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Alex Pattison

Amazing climbing, if a little polished.
aipattison - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with George Evans

Good route. Lead p1. P2 surprisingly good also. Wish I'd read the guide book properly though to save faff!
jezb1 - Lead - 22/Jan/12

Thought this deserved its stars, good climbing all the way. Looks unlikely for the grade ...one of those routes you get down from, look up at and think, Wow! I just climbed that. Not too polished at all. I took an age to find the uber jug above the overhang (led P2).
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/12 with Jez

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 15/Jan/12 with Mike Hawkins

Stewart Armstrong - 2012

Billg - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Richard Ray

Tony Kartawick - 2012

matt perks - 2012

Hidden - 2012

Tony Kartawick - 2012

Excellent, sustained climb. Felt high in the grade, though this may partially be due to the cold ~5ºC rock making our hands numb! Well worth it's 3 stars
cbeard - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/11 with Harry Kingston

Led 2nd pitch
mick1jones - AltLd O/S - 19/Nov/11 with Rich Rogers

Downclimbed half of the unprotected rib on pitch 1, got tom to do it and led pitch 2 instead. Excellent route with quality climbing throughout.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Tom

thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 13/Nov/11 with Becca

First pitch only.
pmurdy - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with john gallant

Didn't feel particularly hard for 5a but definitely HVS. Rained quite hard on first pitch but stayed reasonable on second. Want to do again leading first pitch, but in the dry.
Stanners - 2nd O/S - 29/Oct/11 with Aaron Lines

Aaron Lines - Lead O/S - 29/Oct/11 with stanners

Direct route
Diane - 2nd - 17/Oct/11 with Andrew Tobin

first pitch for a change! polish!!
evhall - AltLd rpt - 15/Oct/11 with goat

Set off leading, but chickened out of the unprotected moves up to the first peg. Let Alex take the (hard!) first pitch, and strolled up the second pitch instead as darkness drew in.
crossdressingrodney - AltLd O/S - 07/Oct/11 with alex malins

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 07/Oct/11

Cheeky end-of-season climb weather just about held off for us! Did the original start (according to the Rockfax guide), awesome route, not overly polished so don't let previous comments put you off. New favourite climb in the gorge
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/11

direct start seams logical as better line, little polish and good rock
dan ely - AltLd O/S - 04/Oct/11 with nick

i_a_coops - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/11

Quality climbing but polished. Full fat at the grade but loads of pro. More like a sport route with the amount of pegs.
wild_nomad - AltLd O/S - 01/Oct/11

Led both pitches, did a hybrid start. Blind jug above overhang on p2 is a beauty once found! Polish not too bad overall. Abbed down The Corpse. 3 hrs.
Jon Didymus - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/11 with Nick

Wasn't feeling bold enough for the LH start, so tackled the polished direct section - better protected but strong move (5b?). P2 much more solid and with great climbing.
thomb - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Tom Syrett

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Sep/11

Excellent and quite hard. Those saying it's horribly polished probably need to get about a bit more - it isn't!
GPN - Lead - 03/Sep/11 with Annette

djking1983 - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/11 with Steve Knaggs

Pbclimbing.com - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/11 with henry castle

Led p1. Horrifically polished. P2 much nicer.
Caspar - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11 with Simon Reynolds

Lead pitch 2, lower down very polished, 2nd pitch wonderful..
scorpia97 - AltLd O/S - 23/Aug/11 with Caspian

led pitch 1
Graeme Hammond - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/11 with Trevor

Led P1, scary first moves!
Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/11 with James Lismore

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Aug/11

First time climbing in the gorge and on a beautiful day. Led first pitch, direct start
petegunn - AltLd - 28/Jul/11 with Davina

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/11

Tricky route finding on pitch 2
kyle - Lead O/S - 27/Jul/11 with Kate Edhouse

Hidden - 2nd - 27/Jul/11

M_W_Court - Lead - 18/Jul/11

Took first pitch, original route...a tad polished but good fun. Good tick for my birthday
kingrollo - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/11

Rollo took the first pitch lead up the original start, which unknown to us is an E1 5b it turns out. The crux move about 10 metres up lives up to the description of ice rink, and is horribly polished. The second pitch (lead by me) up progressive overhangs is very enjoyable though and really makes the climb. I didn't find the hidden jug on the first overhang and pretty much body smeared over it, but either way there's tons of protections and good holds with decent exposure. Made the error of tracking left at the finish up the broken rock to exit in a thicket of gorse and bramble. Not recommended. Head straight up the channel to the clean finish instead.
ashley_sandeman - AltLd - 12/Jul/11 with kingrollo

Lead P1. Excellent outing, though definite contender for Avon's most awkward belay situation. All pretty straight forward really, apart from polished traverse on P1 (route loses a star for that). Best pitch (IMHO) is P2. The hidden hold at the overhang is a peach.
ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 03/Jul/11 with Tim

Led 1st Pitch
wildrover220 - AltLd rpt - 23/Jun/11 with Ali Dixon

Great route breaching the centre of the main wall. Good climbing with a couple of mantle moves and nerve-testing traverses. Some dubious looking pegs in-situ but acceptable gear placements are available to protect crux moves. (Top out straight up through an open, left-facing corner. Alternatively finish to the left by following good holds on increasingly broken rock till, gripped with fear, you crawl over the crumbling lip into brambles and gorse bushes - not recommended!
fragglerock - Lead O/S - 22/Jun/11 with Tom Prince

Why is that jug so bloody hard to find?!
suffolknick - 2nd O/S - 11/Jun/11 with clams

Cha P1, Chris P2
Chris Sansum - AltLd rpt - 03/Jun/11 with Chakrit Suriyo

led P1 with long exiting traverse, Nathan P2 with Overhang (hidden jug high up), good value for 4C.
Fred_Richard - Lead O/S - 17/May/11 with Nathan

Fred P1 me P2
Nathanrobinson - AltLd O/S - 17/May/11 with Frederic Richard

Bobling - 2nd - 12/May/11 with James P, Andy again

Great route, fun climbing. The small overhang on P2 took a bit of feeling about, but the holds are there. Andy led.
Poco Loco - 2nd - 12/May/11 with Andy, Robert

Clay led P1, then i got lost halfway up P2 so made a belay then clay led from there, finished in the dark and rain with no headtorch...
HarryB - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/11 with Clay

I led P1 and the second half of P2, after Harry got a bit lost.
Clay C - AltLd O/S - 17/Mar/11 with Harry B

pinged off a polished bit and fumbled for the secret hold on the overhang... but otherwise all good! yay peregrine and buzzards
katherinesydney - 2nd dog - 14/Mar/11 with gary burgess

centurion05 - 2011

31770 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

Hidden - 2011

jonbwoy - 2011

Kevster - Lead O/S - 24/Oct/10

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/10

_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - Oct/10 with Ben West

adamA - 2nd - Oct/10

Led P1. This climb is excellent
Ybot Htulk - AltLd - 19/Sep/10 with Norman and Sonya

bpmclimb - Lead β - 12/Sep/10 with Clare

Hidden - Lead - 06/Sep/10

colkurtz - 2nd - 06/Sep/10 with Robb

andy dunn - 2nd - 02/Sep/10 with J

simonf - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/10 with Mike

Did 'aid' the traverse on the first pitch.
localboy - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/10 with Simon F

quadmyre - Lead O/S - 30/Aug/10 with Crispin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Aug/10

Hidden - AltLd - 15/Aug/10

Jessie Rushbrooke - Lead β - 01/Aug/10 with GF

Pete Rigby - AltLd O/S - Aug/10 with Jim Tan

Ace!
Chubbard - Lead rpt - 31/Jul/10 with Ray

The traverse was um... a little interesting. Hidden jug a long way up!
Slick - AltLd - 12/Jul/10 with Kevin Vans-Colina

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jul/10

some really nice climbing, just follow the polish up the gorge. Gave up looking for the jug at the start of P2 only to see it once i'd pulled over the overhang without it.
andy dunn - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Alan

ed edwards - AltLd O/S - Jun/10 with tim bateson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/May/10

Ian lead first pitch - me second. Fantastic route - once you find the jug above the overhang!
evhall - AltLd O/S - 15/May/10 with Cutts

Jessie Rushbrooke - 2nd - 15/Apr/10 with GF

Hidden - 2nd rpt - 11/Apr/10

Pown - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/10

done as one pitch, getting dark
Mr Powly - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/10 with Malcolm

Popkids - 2nd O/S - 04/Apr/10 with Nolan

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2010

Led first pitch, Alex T led 2nd. Cold with great friction.
gripped01 - AltLd O/S - Dec/09 with Alex Tomczynski, Dave Tait

Stone Muppet - Lead O/S - 20/Sep/09 with am

Chris led P1 & P2. Found pitch 2 quite easy this time - must have improved since last time! I'm now realising that P1 shouldn't really be called Malbogies in the book as the technical bit of it is a different climb to what Bonington climbed. Will have to try the original start sometime (although it is supposed to be a lot harder now due to loss of a crucial hold).
Chris Sansum - Lead rpt - 19/Sep/09 with Gary Lewin

P1+P2, that jug is well hidden on P2 !
lithos - Lead - 15/Aug/09

ian d f - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/09

deklan - AltLd - 12/Jul/09 with julie jamie

lead the first pitch, pretty sure i did the direct start e1 5b
shyster boulder - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/09 with alex harper

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/09

Direct Start (E1 5b)
Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/09 with Mike Kann

lead pitch 2
EmmanuelF - Lead - 10/May/09 with arnaud

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/09

Hidden - 2nd dog - 31/Jan/09

Climbed 2 days after my 50th birthday! had gone to Kev`s for a birthday weekend (brilliant!) Kev led 1st pitch,(the direct start)me the 2nd(kept telling myself ,it`s only 4b in Hard Rock!)Excellent climb,cold day though.abbed off.
mike bridges - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/09 with Kevin Bridges

Hidden - Lead rpt - 31/Jan/09

Kenemo - 2009

simonw1 - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/08 with conrad and nick

maria85 - 2nd O/S - 25/Sep/08 with Stef

RedFox - Lead rpt - 25/Sep/08 with Maria

The first bit is terrifying!
Chubbard - Lead O/S - 07/Sep/08 with J Robinson

Good value for the grade at the start
JimR - 2nd - 07/Sep/08 with Charles H

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 31/Aug/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Aug/08

Dan_Carroll - Lead O/S - 10/May/08 with Rebecca Holland

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/08

Led the first pitch and took quite a while over it. The jug on the 2nd pitch overhang is huge!
maresia - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/08 with Iain Afshar

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/08

Did it in the snow. Very cold.
chris sm - AltLd O/S - 22/Mar/08 with Ashley Lewis

Led p1
Bristoldave - AltLd rpt - 05/Mar/08 with Joe

2nd pitch felt harder technically that the first. Maybe 'the move' is easier if you have a longer reach to grab the monster hold, but for me it easily felt like 5a. A great climb, and we didn't feel too much shame in taking ages to get up the thing.
Chris Sansum - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/08 with Weilin Wang

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Feb/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/08

Did the direct start and direct finish (both E1 5a but more like 5b).
Paz - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/08 with AM2

Messners Yeti - Lead O/S - 07/Dec/07 with George

Al Franks - Lead O/S - 25/Nov/07 with Emily Reynolds

Alasdair88 - Lead O/S - 25/Nov/07 with Emily Reynolds

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Nov/07

Brilliant fun and was quite amazed we managed to finish it before it got too dark. Dave led P1 (5a), I led P2(4c)
Chris the Tall - AltLd - 10/Nov/07 with Dave J

georgeevans88 - AltLd O/S - Nov/07 with Pete

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Oct/07

Led first pitch. What lovely pegs; hmmm. Couldn't figure out all this talk of 'jugs' over the first overhang on the second pitch. If by 'jugs', people mean small, polished, Avon slopers, then yes, there were plenty of them. I think 4c is a bit of a joke for the second pitch.
Southern Man - AltLd O/S - 13/Oct/07 with Clive

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/07

I led the first pitch, Rupert the second. As usual with Rupert, finished the route in the dark.
Bux - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/07 with Rupert Bassadone

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Aug/07

Ian led; I followed and then did Colin. I pulled on the odd piece of gear. I wouldn't have been able to lead, probably due to the tricky start. We only did the first pitch and then abseiled off due to time/remaining light concerns. We then went to the white lion in Frenchay for a couple of pints.
jamestryfan - 2nd dog - 09/Aug/07 with IC and CK

Hidden - AltLd β - 07/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Jul/07

Rich Mayfield - AltLd - 13/Jul/07 with Mark Stevenson

tonanf - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/07 with james c

Seconded pitch 1 - was about to lead p2 when the rain forced an abseil retreat.
bpmclimb - 2nd dnf - 13/Jun/07 with Iain

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/May/07

Hidden - Lead O/S - 26/Apr/07

Andy Peak 1 - 2nd - Apr/07 with Pete

haydng - Lead O/S - 2007 with Will, Rachel

chris wyatt - AltLd O/S - 2007 with gwyn evans

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 27/Aug/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/06

Lev - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/06 with Dai Jessop

wildrover220 - 2nd O/S - 06/May/06 with Neil Thomas

Hidden - 2nd - May/06

Led first pitch (direct start)
cornishben - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/06 with Richard Nadin

E1 direct start...
mike kann - Lead O/S - 2006 with Bill Naylor

Bern - 2006

John Lisle - 2006

Led P2
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 2006 with douglas

Tim Steward - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/05 with Torran Elson

RedFox - AltLd - Jun/05 with Tom K

Fat Tim - AltLd O/S - 25/May/05 with Mark kauntz

al99 - AltLd - 13/May/05 with Rupert Rosedale

tom.e - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2005

IceMonkey1982 - 2005

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2005

eddy-on-the-rocks - Lead O/S - 2005

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Sep/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/04

Hidden - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/04

furry - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with Neil

The Pylon King - Lead O/S - Jun/04 with Beesley (oliver)

Hidden - AltLd - 16/May/04

dan gibson - 2004

Jon Greengrass - 2nd O/S - 2004 with Pete

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 05/Jan/03 with Jemma Wadham

led p1
Boxy - AltLd O/S - 09/Jun/02 with Mick

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/02

Paz - Lead O/S - Feb/02 with RB

gimmer - AltLd O/S - May/01 with Jason Darke

Hidden - 2001

Hidden - Lead dog - 2001

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 01/Aug/00

JohnHutch - 2nd - Aug/00

Roget - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/00 with jon

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Jim Brooke - AltLd O/S - 13/Jun/99 with Rich

andybrown114 - AltLd - Jun/99 with Nick Turner

DavidR - AltLd O/S - 29/May/98 with John Marston and Martin

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Mar/98

phardman - 20/Jul/97

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 31/Mar/97 with John Marston

andybrown114 - AltLd - Jun/96 with Stewart Leitch

phardman - AltLd - 15/Oct/95 with Guy Maddox

lead p1
colin milton - AltLd - 29/Aug/95 with eric milton

We found a football at the bottom of the climb which we carried up the route.
jim_randell - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/95 with FW

P1 only. Abbed due to rain.
chris sm - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/95 with Francis Taylor

lowersharpnose - Lead - 01/Jan/95

DavidR - 2nd O/S - 1995 with John Marston

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Oct/94

Hidden - Lead - 17/Sep/94

Marti999 - Lead - 1994

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1993

Mark led first, I led second.
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 1993 with Mark

philhilo - 1990

philhilo - 1990

Hidden - 1990

Mickdenali - AltLd O/S - 1990 with Craig Offless

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 05/Aug/89 with David

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 05/Aug/89 with Dad

ChrisJD - AltLd - 15/Oct/88

BigHairyIan - AltLd - 05/Apr/88 with Guy Summers

GuySummers - AltLd - 05/Apr/88 with bighairyian

AndyB123 - AltLd O/S - 1988 with Andy E

bullybones - Lead - 1988

sniffer - 2nd - 1988 with Chris Court

mark-abz - Lead - 14/Nov/87 with Andy W

michael burrows - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/87 with ian nettleton

RichardMc - AltLd O/S - 10/May/87 with Pete Stokes

surfbish - Lead - Apr/87

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Oct/86

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 05/May/86

Budge - 2nd O/S - 1986 with Bonds Western

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

First visit to the Gorge and camped below the crag. Did the direct start. Excellent climb and excellent weekend
KRB - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/85 with Martin Cowley

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Oct/85

Wonderful top pitch !
rogerskews - AltLd - 21/Sep/85 with Martin Coward

lost count how many times. first time was 2nding Pete on the direct start, then led the left hand start + top pitch.
JamieAyres - Lead rpt - Jul/85 with Peter Rickard

Hidden - Lead - 16/Apr/85

sadams - Lead - 30/Sep/84 with Steve Gordon-Head

HVS,5a*** at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
Pete Nugent - Lead - 04/Aug/84 with Nigel Brooks (Thames Valley CC)

Richard Weller - AltLd - 20/May/84 with Jerry Luntley

Hairy Welshman - AltLd O/S - 1984 with Ross Robinson

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1984 with Emily

Hidden - Lead - 1984

Again with direct start 2/8/85. Again with Ian Haigh 2/10/04.
charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 15/Nov/83

Lead previously in Sept 81
stp - Solo rpt - 19/Aug/83

andy gittins - 1983

nigehughes - AltLd - Oct/82 with Phil James

Nigel Bond - Lead - 05/Sep/82 with Rodger Edenborough

Hidden - Solo rpt - Aug/82

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/82

Mike Owen - 09/Apr/82 with Phil Ralph

babymoac - 2nd - 13/Feb/82 with Dave Salter

AlanLittle - Lead - 1982

John Marsland - AltLd - Oct/81 with Ian Stopforth

Nic Robinson - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/81 with Richard Dickenson

Hidden - 1981

peterbeaumont - 1980

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/79

Previously seconded in 77.
Kafoozalem - Lead rpt - 09/Apr/79 with John Baily

GeoffG - AltLd - Jun/78 with tony bowker

Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 1978 with Chris Newton, Karen Ghiselli

beaumap - Lead - 02/Sep/77 with Pete Coghill

Andy Chubb - AltLd - 13/Sep/76 with Saxon Ridley

Falko - Lead O/S - 11/Apr/76 with Alan Taylor, Chris Plant

Andy Chubb - AltLd - 10/Apr/76 with Pete Coghill

Ken Taylor - AltLd - 17/Mar/76 with Jonathan Lagoe

Hidden - 1976

Bolt Phobia - 2nd - 22/Nov/75 with Wil Hurford

Mark Kemball - Lead - 16/Oct/75 with Steve Marriott

Hidden - 27/Jul/75

Steve Woollard - Lead O/S - 1973

Dave Musgrove - AltLd - 30/May/72 with Speedy Smith

Hidden - AltLd - 1966

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, andycash, Alex_RhodesUK, Si Carter, Hidden, Malpractise, Master Chief, Alan100, arandall, Darrell Read, mullermn, JamesRich, Laramadness, Hidden, Hidden, Katherine Ross, Hidden, David Smith, Hidden, Michael Hood, Hidden, Dave Ing, pc1983, Ropeboy, Hidden, dansmonkeytroubles, Hidden, Hidden, Owen W-G, woodenwealth, tobydunford, TiffTiff, Hidden, poey50, Hidden, Different Steve

Voting
Total votes cast 202
hard E10 of 71
E10 of 71
easy E17 of 71
hard HVS34 of 71
HVS27 of 71
easy HVS3 of 71
hard VS0 of 71
VS0 of 71
easy VS0 of 71
hard 5b0 of 69
5b0 of 69
easy 5b1 of 69
hard 5a30 of 69
5a34 of 69
easy 5a3 of 69
hard 4c1 of 69
4c0 of 69
easy 4c0 of 69
3 Stars36 of 62
2 Stars17 of 62
1 Star7 of 62
0 Stars1 of 62
Bag of .....1 of 62
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 307 (1.0%)
Lead87 of 307 (28.3%)
Followed37 of 307 (12.1%)
Alt Leads148 of 307 (48.2%)
Unknown32 of 307 (10.4%)

'Climbed'112 of 307 (36.5%)
clean O/S164 of 307 (53.4%)
clean β3 of 307 (1.0%)
clean rpt22 of 307 (7.2%)
dogged5 of 307 (1.6%)
dnf1 of 307 (0.3%)