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55m.
Wall-loose and Vomit. (in hommage to those two other hapless adventurers, Wallace & Grommit)
This "route" is near La Croix de provence - but very slightly further east along the escarpment.
Route description: 1 pitch, 55m, definitely “Of Death” XS 5a/b
Start (or don’t): From the NEW black marked scramble, below the rock archway, head left (facing up to the arch) and scramble to a sloping ledge past a large and very deep sink hole (rusty old peg by sink hole) Route starts up the broken corner on slightly dodgy rock. For the first 20m rock progresses from slightly dodgy to downright lethal. Loose holds should (if they come off) be disposed of to the right – this way they miss the belay and fall in to the sink hole. After 30m a sloping ledge is reached with a good 3.5 cam in the back corner past the dead bush. Not good enough to pitch here, although by now you will want to.
From the sloping ledge, head up and right around the corner following a steeply slanting ramp (5-6m) Good gear here, rock more sound, but slightly overhanging – there’s a good wire placement and a (probably) sound tape thread.
Continue up and rightwards on good holds following the line of least resistance, then when a protruding rock on the right is reached (2-3m) head straight up on progressively worse holds, on to easier but broken ground. Continue up on to the ridge line, to a large block of solid rock, throw a tape over it, place a few wires, tie yourself in, say a brief prayer of thanks to the deity of your choice and throw up a little bit.
Alternative finish: Read the guidebook properly and thoroughly and do the nice long easy ridge up to the cross, or ignore the last pitch and finish up the black scramble.
(Note to any checker - if routes can go up to 3 stars - this one is on the opposite end of the spectrum, a three turd route? - I'm only recording it as a warning - we properly messed up navigation to get on this - major misjudgement. However, as I can find no record of it anywhere, I suppose I might as well claim it as a new route? - I can provide a photo topo of the route, but i can't find anywhere to attach it here.
This "route" is near La Croix de provence - but very slightly further east along the escarpment.
Route description: 1 pitch, 55m, definitely “Of Death” XS 5a/b
Start (or don’t): From the NEW black marked scramble, below the rock archway, head left (facing up to the arch) and scramble to a sloping ledge past a large and very deep sink hole (rusty old peg by sink hole) Route starts up the broken corner on slightly dodgy rock. For the first 20m rock progresses from slightly dodgy to downright lethal. Loose holds should (if they come off) be disposed of to the right – this way they miss the belay and fall in to the sink hole. After 30m a sloping ledge is reached with a good 3.5 cam in the back corner past the dead bush. Not good enough to pitch here, although by now you will want to.
From the sloping ledge, head up and right around the corner following a steeply slanting ramp (5-6m) Good gear here, rock more sound, but slightly overhanging – there’s a good wire placement and a (probably) sound tape thread.
Continue up and rightwards on good holds following the line of least resistance, then when a protruding rock on the right is reached (2-3m) head straight up on progressively worse holds, on to easier but broken ground. Continue up on to the ridge line, to a large block of solid rock, throw a tape over it, place a few wires, tie yourself in, say a brief prayer of thanks to the deity of your choice and throw up a little bit.
Alternative finish: Read the guidebook properly and thoroughly and do the nice long easy ridge up to the cross, or ignore the last pitch and finish up the black scramble.
(Note to any checker - if routes can go up to 3 stars - this one is on the opposite end of the spectrum, a three turd route? - I'm only recording it as a warning - we properly messed up navigation to get on this - major misjudgement. However, as I can find no record of it anywhere, I suppose I might as well claim it as a new route? - I can provide a photo topo of the route, but i can't find anywhere to attach it here.
FA. Andrew Edwards, Guillaume Locostello, Ryan Smith 13/Apr/2014.
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