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Pink Wall Direct** E2 5c

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[charlie, in an autumnal avon gorge, 2 kb]An engrossing and adventurous tour of the wall. The second pitch is no place for a timid second. Start on Breakfast Ledge. Photo on page 67.. 1) 5b, 20m. From the right side of the ledge above the tree pull over an overhang and head up and slightly right to a slim corner. Follow this to an overhang and move over it rightwards to a hanging stance on pegs and an old bolt plus nuts.. 2) 5c, 26m. Traverse left beneath the overhang to pegs and gear where it fades. Move up and left to a pocket, peg, and then left again to the base of corner groove, peg. Climb the groove and then romp up the three iron spikes on the left wall to a fine stance - the Aerodrome stance.. 3) 5a, 14m. Hand traverse left along the exposed rising break, pegs, and finish up the short easy corner. © ROCKFAX
B Annette, C Jones (4 pts aid) (E3 5c direct finish C King Aug/1979) Feb/1964

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Photo: charlie, in an autumnal avon gorge © willbris3
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 39 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Feb/13

Only led 3rd pitch after whimping out on the 2nd. 1st pitch pretty stiff and not for the fat-fingered climber, could only just get tips into the crack. Found 2nd pitch very hard but just about wobbled through after watching Dan's sequence (go low), all over after the pocket. Felt much harder than other E2's in avon.
Kemics - AltLd β - 11/Nov/12 with Enduro Dan

dan ely - AltLd O/S - 11/Nov/12 with Kemics

Brilliant! Very memorable climbing and fantasic positions.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Tom

Really good 2nd pitch, delicate bold climbing then yarding up those spikes. Brilliant, and much better than Lich Gates.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Becca

al99 - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Percy

Led 2nd & 4th. Stiff 5c moves on 3rd
gripped01 - AltLd - 04/Sep/12 with Al Benson

Excellent. Well worth doing. Lead first pitch. Good gear and great pitch. The step over to the belay feels a bit wrong but in hindsight it isn't bad and their are holds to be found. 2nd pitch is a dicey traverse followed by the 3 spikes. All I can say is... "use the spikes"
northcave - AltLd O/S - Jul/12 with jamie thornley

P2 + 3. Great fun.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/12 with Marti

Marti999 - AltLd rpt - 06/Mar/12 with Ed Babington

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/11

Excellent experience. Took the low, balance-requiring route through the crux on the second (5c) pitch. Pitch 2 was completed protecting only with in situ pitons and stakes!
cbeard - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/11 with Ross Davidson, Will Attridge

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2009

Really, really good
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/08 with mosel

Marti999 - AltLd - 06/Apr/07 with Mark Glaister

horrible experience in route not finding
tonanf - AltLd - Oct/06 with burt

Bern - 2006

Hidden - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/05

tom.e - 2nd O/S - 2005

led P2 (5c).
Paz - AltLd O/S - Aug/04 with AS

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Jerry led odds, I led second pitch.
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/96 with Jerry

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Feb/89

E1*,5b,5c,5a at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
Pete Nugent - Lead β - Jul/88 with Dave Streader

DDDD - 1988

bullybones - Lead - 1988

Led 2nd pitch
John Marsland - AltLd - 14/Sep/85 with Dave Mould and Allen Newby

struggled with the first pitch so we abbed-off the belay back to breakfast ledge
JamieAyres - 2nd dog - Sep/85 with Phil Windall

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1984 with Emily

andy gittins - 1983

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/82

Lead pitch 2. Also lead the direct finish with a rest point. Given 5b it felt like E3 5c!!
stp - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/82

Hidden - 1981

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/80

I led pitch one and Pink Wall Traverse. Previously dogged it seconding Chris Pound 29/7/78 - a prolonged epic.
Kafoozalem - AltLd rpt - 16/Apr/79 with David Walter

Steve Woollard - AltLd - 1973 with Martin Crocker

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Kemics, andy dunn, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 39
hard E30 of 13
E30 of 13
easy E30 of 13
hard E22 of 13
E211 of 13
easy E20 of 13
hard E10 of 13
E10 of 13
easy E10 of 13
hard 6a0 of 13
6a0 of 13
easy 6a0 of 13
hard 5c3 of 13
5c10 of 13
easy 5c0 of 13
hard 5b0 of 13
5b0 of 13
easy 5b0 of 13
3 Stars9 of 13
2 Stars4 of 13
1 Star0 of 13
0 Stars0 of 13
Bag of .....0 of 13
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Style of ascent

Lead6 of 39 (15.4%)
Followed3 of 39 (7.7%)
Alt Leads24 of 39 (61.5%)
Unknown6 of 39 (15.4%)

'Climbed'13 of 39 (33.3%)
clean O/S21 of 39 (53.8%)
clean β2 of 39 (5.1%)
clean rpt2 of 39 (5.1%)
dogged1 of 39 (2.6%)