Rockfax Description
An engrossing and adventurous tour of the wall. The second pitch is no place for a timid second. Start on Breakfast Ledge.

1) 5b, 20m. From the right side of the ledge above the tree pull over an overhang and head up and slightly right to a slim corner. Follow this to an overhang and move over it rightwards to a hanging stance on pegs and an old bolt plus nuts.
2) 5c, 26m. Traverse left beneath the overhang to pegs and gear where it fades. Move up and left to a pocket, peg, and then left again to the base of corner groove, peg. Climb the groove and then romp up the three iron spikes on the left wall to a fine stance - the Aerodrome stance.
3) 5a, 14m. Hand traverse left along the exposed rising break, pegs, and finish up the short easy corner. © Rockfax

B Annette, C Jones (4 pts aid) (E3 5c direct finish C King Aug/1979) Feb/1964

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

danmullett 26/Oct -
kenneM 24/Sep AltLd O/S

Thought the traverse pitch was really tough at the grade - great lead from Felix.

felixizzy 24/Sep AltLd O/S

P1&2. Thought the first pitch was pretty tricky getting into an out of the goove as mentioned already. Faffed on it trying to work out moves for ages. Then Mike went to lead the second pitch, got to the second peg and backed off so I lead from there on. Between the 3rd and 4th peg was the crux but the whole traverse is pretty delicate. Get to the pocket, step up, and... Rest, ahhhhh. Spikes were a welcome novelty. pretty awesome traverse on the final pitch too... gotta wonder why its called pink wall 'direct' though...

with Mike
RedFox 02/Aug AltLd dnf

Led to the bottom of the crack then went back down and swapped (should do some training, really). Spotted a peregrine on the aerodrome and abseiled off the top of P1 (a handy excuse!).

with Tom K
_m.cox_ 25/May Lead O/S

Not the best route, but it kept us entertained for the afternoon.

georgeevans88 11/Sep/14 2nd O/S

Have wanted to do this for ages and was not disappointed. I thought the crux was leaving the pocket on the traverse although the moves into and out of the crack on thr first pitch were not easy.

with Jamie
zcsharp 11/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Thought the first pitch was harder pretty hard, but P2 wasn't as bad as i was expecting it to be.

AJM 24/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Led first and third. Found the first tougher than I'd been expecting and the traverse on pitch 2 is a bit baffling!

Hidden 24/Sep/13 AltLd RP
Alex Winter 30/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Brilliant. Led P1 and P3. Felt a bit pokey gaining and leaving the crack on the first pitch - pretty steady once worked out though. Vintage first belay. Didn't find the second pitch that taxing, although I stayed quite low and Nick had chalked all the decent holds. Great fun yarding up the spikes.

with Nick
Nick Russell 30/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Three excellent pitches, I led the second. Loved the contrast between delicate Avon tiptoeing and romping up the spikes!

Hidden 18/Feb/13 2nd O/S
jcw ??/2013 -
Kemics 11/Nov/12 AltLd β

Only led 3rd pitch after whimping out on the 2nd. 1st pitch pretty stiff and not for the fat-fingered climber, could only just get tips into the crack. Found 2nd pitch very hard but just about wobbled through after watching Dan's sequence (go low), all over after the pocket. Felt much harder than other E2's in avon.

dan ely 11/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
with Kemics
BeccaSnowden 16/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Brilliant! Very memorable climbing and fantasic positions.

with Tom
thomasadixon 16/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Really good 2nd pitch, delicate bold climbing then yarding up those spikes. Brilliant, and much better than Lich Gates.

with Becca
al99 04/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Percy
gripped01 04/Sep/12 AltLd

Led 2nd & 4th. Stiff 5c moves on 3rd

northcave ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Excellent. Well worth doing. Lead first pitch. Good gear and great pitch. The step over to the belay feels a bit wrong but in hindsight it isn't bad and their are holds to be found. 2nd pitch is a dicey traverse followed by the 3 spikes. All I can say is... "use the spikes"

with jamie thornley
Ed Babs 06/Mar/12 AltLd O/S

P2 + 3. Great fun.

with Marti
Marti999 06/Mar/12 AltLd rpt
Hidden 29/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
cbeard 29/Oct/11 AltLd O/S

Excellent experience. Took the low, balance-requiring route through the crux on the second (5c) pitch. Pitch 2 was completed protecting only with in situ pitons and stakes!

just one more 10/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with tim b
Hidden ??/2009 AltLd O/S
Bristoldave 03/Oct/08 Lead O/S

Really, really good

with mosel
Marti999 06/Apr/07 AltLd
tonanf ?/Oct/06 AltLd

horrible experience in route not finding

with burt
Bern ??/2006 -
Marcus ??/2006 -
Hidden ?/Aug/05 AltLd O/S
tom.e ??/2005 2nd O/S
Paz ?/Aug/04 AltLd O/S

led P2 (5c).

with AS
serby ?/Apr/00 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Tim M ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1999 Lead
AndySL 11/Jul/96 AltLd O/S

Jerry led odds, I led second pitch.

with Jerry
Hidden 12/Feb/89 AltLd
Pete Nugent ?/Jul/88 Lead β

E1*,5b,5c,5a at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)

with Dave Streader
DDDD ??/1988 -
bullybones ??/1988 Lead
John Marsland 14/Sep/85 AltLd

Led 2nd pitch

with Dave Mould and Allen Newby
JamieAyres ?/Sep/85 2nd dog

struggled with the first pitch so we abbed-off the belay back to breakfast ledge

with Phil Windall
William Robertson ??/1984 Lead O/S
with Emily
Hidden ??/1984 AltLd
andy gittins ??/1983 -
charlesmfrench 25/Oct/82 Lead O/S
stp 06/Sep/82 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2. Also lead the direct finish with a rest point. Given 5b it felt like E3 5c!!

Steve Bell ??/1981 -
Hidden ??/1981 Lead
Chris Terrey ?/Jun/80 2nd
with Brian Wyvill
Hidden ?/Mar/80 AltLd O/S
Nevil ??/1980 Lead
with Steve
Hidden 16/Apr/79 AltLd rpt
D Tempest ?/Jan/77 AltLd
Hidden ??/1973 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Kemics, andy dunn, Hidden, Dr Caterpillar, Hidden
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 17
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set