Pink Wall Direct** E2 5c
[charlie, in an autumnal avon gorge, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
An engrossing and adventurous tour of the wall. The second pitch is no place for a timid second. Start on Breakfast Ledge.

1) 5b, 20m. From the right side of the ledge above the tree pull over an overhang and head up and slightly right to a slim corner. Follow this to an overhang and move over it rightwards to a hanging stance on pegs and an old bolt plus nuts.
2) 5c, 26m. Traverse left beneath the overhang to pegs and gear where it fades. Move up and left to a pocket, peg, and then left again to the base of corner groove, peg. Climb the groove and then romp up the three iron spikes on the left wall to a fine stance - the Aerodrome stance.
3) 5a, 14m. Hand traverse left along the exposed rising break, pegs, and finish up the short easy corner. © ROCKFAX

B Annette, C Jones (4 pts aid) (E3 5c direct finish C King Aug/1979) Feb/1964

Ticklists: Littlejohn South West Climbs, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs.

Photo: charlie, in an autumnal avon gorge © willbris3
Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 55 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Led to the bottom of the crack then went back down and swapped (should do some training, really). Spotted a peregrine on the aerodrome and abseiled off the top of P1 (a handy excuse!).
RedFox - AltLd dnf - 02/Aug/15 with Tom K

Not the best route, but it kept us entertained for the afternoon.
_m.cox_ - Lead O/S - 25/May/15 with Tom Harrison

Have wanted to do this for ages and was not disappointed. I thought the crux was leaving the pocket on the traverse although the moves into and out of the crack on thr first pitch were not easy.
georgeevans88 - 2nd O/S - 11/Sep/14 with Jamie

Thought the first pitch was harder pretty hard, but P2 wasn't as bad as i was expecting it to be.
zcsharp - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/14 with George Evans

Led first and third. Found the first tougher than I'd been expecting and the traverse on pitch 2 is a bit baffling!
AJM - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/13 with Helen Seaborne

Hidden - AltLd RP - 24/Sep/13

Brilliant. Led P1 and P3. Felt a bit pokey gaining and leaving the crack on the first pitch - pretty steady once worked out though. Vintage first belay. Didn't find the second pitch that taxing, although I stayed quite low and Nick had chalked all the decent holds. Great fun yarding up the spikes.
Alex Winter - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/13 with Nick

Three excellent pitches, I led the second. Loved the contrast between delicate Avon tiptoeing and romping up the spikes!
Nick Russell - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/13 with Alex Winter

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 18/Feb/13

jcw - 2013

Only led 3rd pitch after whimping out on the 2nd. 1st pitch pretty stiff and not for the fat-fingered climber, could only just get tips into the crack. Found 2nd pitch very hard but just about wobbled through after watching Dan's sequence (go low), all over after the pocket. Felt much harder than other E2's in avon.
Kemics - AltLd β - 11/Nov/12 with Enduro Dan

dan ely - AltLd O/S - 11/Nov/12 with Kemics

Brilliant! Very memorable climbing and fantasic positions.
BeccaSnowden - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Tom

Really good 2nd pitch, delicate bold climbing then yarding up those spikes. Brilliant, and much better than Lich Gates.
thomasadixon - AltLd O/S - 16/Sep/12 with Becca

al99 - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/12 with Percy

Led 2nd & 4th. Stiff 5c moves on 3rd
gripped01 - AltLd - 04/Sep/12 with Al Benson

Excellent. Well worth doing. Lead first pitch. Good gear and great pitch. The step over to the belay feels a bit wrong but in hindsight it isn't bad and their are holds to be found. 2nd pitch is a dicey traverse followed by the 3 spikes. All I can say is... "use the spikes"
northcave - AltLd O/S - Jul/12 with jamie thornley

P2 + 3. Great fun.
Ed Babs - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/12 with Marti

Marti999 - AltLd rpt - 06/Mar/12 with Ed Babington

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/11

Excellent experience. Took the low, balance-requiring route through the crux on the second (5c) pitch. Pitch 2 was completed protecting only with in situ pitons and stakes!
cbeard - AltLd O/S - 29/Oct/11 with Ross Davidson, Will Attridge

just one more - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/09 with tim b

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2009

Really, really good
Bristoldave - Lead O/S - 03/Oct/08 with mosel

Marti999 - AltLd - 06/Apr/07 with Mark Glaister

horrible experience in route not finding
tonanf - AltLd - Oct/06 with burt

Bern - 2006

Marcus - 2006

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/05

tom.e - 2nd O/S - 2005

led P2 (5c).
Paz - AltLd O/S - Aug/04 with AS

serby - Lead - Apr/00

Hidden - 2000

Tim M - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - Lead - 1999

Jerry led odds, I led second pitch.
AndySL - AltLd O/S - 11/Jul/96 with Jerry

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Feb/89

E1*,5b,5c,5a at the time (S.Monks 1980 guide)
Pete Nugent - Lead β - Jul/88 with Dave Streader

DDDD - 1988

bullybones - Lead - 1988

Led 2nd pitch
John Marsland - AltLd - 14/Sep/85 with Dave Mould and Allen Newby

struggled with the first pitch so we abbed-off the belay back to breakfast ledge
JamieAyres - 2nd dog - Sep/85 with Phil Windall

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1984 with Emily

Hidden - AltLd - 1984

andy gittins - 1983

charlesmfrench - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/82

Lead pitch 2. Also lead the direct finish with a rest point. Given 5b it felt like E3 5c!!
stp - AltLd O/S - 06/Sep/82

Steve Bell - 1981

Hidden - Lead - 1981

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/80

Hidden - Lead - 1980

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 16/Apr/79

D Tempest - AltLd - Jan/77

Hidden - AltLd - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Kemics, andy dunn, Dr Caterpillar

Total votes cast 47
hard E30 of 16
E30 of 16
easy E30 of 16
hard E22 of 16
E214 of 16
easy E20 of 16
hard E10 of 16
E10 of 16
easy E10 of 16
hard 6a0 of 16
6a0 of 16
easy 6a0 of 16
hard 5c3 of 16
5c13 of 16
easy 5c0 of 16
hard 5b0 of 16
5b0 of 16
easy 5b0 of 16
3 Stars11 of 15
2 Stars4 of 15
1 Star0 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP